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LT15 First Mill Thoughts

Started by Drivadesl, February 08, 2017, 11:10:24 PM

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Drivadesl

Hello all new guy here, been lurking for awhile, this is a great forum, and you all seem very helpful to one another.  Looking forward to adding my2c as I get more involved.   I've got some plans on getting a sawmill for personal use, mainly to use for milling trees from my property to build some sheds, a barn, and possibly a small cabin for part time use.  I've used  a CSM in the past, but I'd like to move up to something with better productivity, so considering a WM LT15.   THe property has a lot of hemlock, oak and other mixed hardwoods in the 20-30" diameter range.  What are your thoughts on options from the base model?  I was thinking of moving up to the 25hp Kohler from the 19HP, since I'm a believer more power is better.  Not sure I would need the wide version, since most of the trees should work with the 28" capacity of the base model, but maybe I'm missing something?  Also, what do you think of the electric power feed, is it worth the extra $$. I'm likely going to finance part of this, so don't want to spend more than necessary.  Thanks for your input.

VictorH

Welcome to the Forum "Drive a Diesel"

newoodguy78

Welcome to the forum. I'm no sawmill consultant but have been around a few. My one recommendation would be to spend as much as you're comfortable with without stretching yourself too thin. From what I've noticed the upgrades really do increase efficiency and let the machine do more of the work. What upgrades you choose should be based on your personal needs and uses.

Brad_bb

I have the LT15GO set up stationary in my shop with 2 bed extensions.  I have the 19HP gas Kohler.  I am milling for timbers for my home and horse barn.  The 19hp engine has been fine for what I do.  If my goal was board production to sell, then you might consider higher HP and the electric power feed and hydraulic loading and optioned mill like the LT40.  As it is, I mill some boards off the log and then cut either a beam from the center, or cut 4 inch thick slabs which I turn into 4x8's for brace stock.  For this, I am fine with the hand crank.  I also cut a lot of curved pieces for naturally curved brace stock and for that I often have to reposition and having the hand crank is beneficial.  I like having the feel for what I'm cutting and being able to stop quickly or adjust my pressure depending on if I'm cutting Ash(not so hard) or Osage(really hard). 

With all that said, I would like my mill to be more versatile.  I have the MP100 beam planer.  It can only be used on the LT15 platform.  It is a 16 inch wide unit but can plane up to 20 inches by sliding the planer on it's mount.  What is great about the beam planer is that not only can you immediately plane green timber, but after a timber has sat for a year or more and twisted/checked etc., you can then true it up and make it perfectly square.  The same goes for thick slabs for table tops and curved timbers.  Let them dry and move for a year, then go back and square them up.  I usually leave some extra thickness on them to account for the warpage and subequent planing.

Drawbacks of the LT15 platform are that no Toe Boards are offered, nor is a log turner offered.  They are important for raising the small end of the log to level out the center of the log.  As you may know, a lot tapers especially at the butt, and when milling you usually want to get the center of the heart at the same height on each end. The LT28 supposedly has a manual toe board that I am planning to look into so see if I could adapt it to the LT15.  The LT28 also has a manual log turner I will look into.  A log turner is useful for obvious reasons.  Actually, I don't mind turning logs by hand with cant hook when cutting timbers.  The reason I want a log turner is to be able to quarter saw oak in a more efficient manner with the reverse rolling technique discussed here:  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,93851.0.html

My ultimate mill set up would be so I could:
1. Cut timbers from straight logs
2. Cut naturally curved pieces (cut flats on 2 sides)
3. Use the beam planer for all of the above mentioned purposes.
4. Cut the widest table top slabs possible.
5. Quarter saw Oak using reverse rolling.

These 5 functions are somewhat specialized and very different from cutting 1x and 2x boards for production.  For production you want to cut quickly as much material as possible to maximize your money.  For the specialized functions above, well, let's say I'm more focused on the quality of what I'm producing than the speed.  I don't mean that as any insult to making boards, just that what make is a bit more specialized and takes more time.

What would I change today?  I would prefer the wide mill so I could cut wider slabs, but then Woodmizer has not made it so the beam planer can work with the wide mill.  I'm not sure, but it might take longer bands on the wide mill(which would cost more, but I'm not sure).  I would also like to have a powered toe board and powered chain log turner (instead of a claw turner).  The LT15 is not set up with hydraulics though.  I would like it if they were electric actuated. 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

scully

The LT15 is a great mill . I would get the x-tra HP if it were me . In a nut shell you won't set any production records , but your lumber quality will be very good . I like power feed , I sprinkle that stuff on everything !
I bleed orange  .

Drivadesl

Thank you all for the warm welcome and replies. Like with most equipment,  there's a learning curve and you realize what you really need or should have gotten after you run it for awhile.  If money were no object I'd just get a machine with every option and be done with it. That would be my preference but not my reality unfortunately.

So how do you deal with not having toe boards? Seems like every machine should have these so I assume there is a workaround.

47sawdust

Why not a diesel power? Seems to fit your handle.The toe boards are no big deal to get around.For years I used a long bar and a series of hardwood shims to lift a log end.Cheap and simple.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Drivadesl

Would love to go diesel! Couldn't justify it, but maybe if I upgrade like most seem to do on here. Thanks for the suggestion. 

Wonder if anyone could post a photo of there homemade toe boards?

WV Sawmiller

Driv,

   I hear only good things about the LT15. You have read some of the pros and cons here. As to the regular or wide I would ask myself the size logs you plan to cut and can handle. No matter how big the mill I think at some point you will probably want to exceed its limitations. How will you handle bigger logs? My mill will cut the 28" width and up to 32" diameter but even that is stretching my material handing support equipment. Handling even bigger logs would be a bit much and I have hydraulics.

   Good luck. Keep us informed of you milling journey.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

pineywoods

Pineywoods hydraulic package works good on LT15 if you are stationary. Turner, clamp and toe roller...search "home made hydraulics"
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

thecfarm

Drivadesl,welcome to the forum.
I looked at a wide mill years ago,Thomas,almost bought it. But went with a normal size. Never needed one that big. I sold all the big ones to a bigger sawmill.  ;D Those big ones are hard to handle on a manual mill.
I would go with a bigger motor. How about the diesel? One thing I would like about it,no carb!!! My mill has set for a year without being used.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Drivadesl

OK I keep hearing diesel. How does the 25hp Kohler compare with the 10HP  diesel upgrade. They cost them same. +$800. The 17hp diesel is almost $2600, really don't want to drop that much on a non production machine.

I'm sure there's some fuel savings but how about power between the 25 gas vs 10hp diesel?

Drivadesl

Well I spoke with the folks in Hannibal, who advised that power wise the 10hp diesel is comparable to the 19hp gas. Given I'm interested in more power vs less fuel consumption, I'm leaning to the 25 Koehler.

scully

I'm not convinced that the diesel offered on the LT 15 is actually an upgrade . I think its more of a regional convenience option . I would stay with the big gas engine on this mill . Just my opinion . Now if you were talking about the 40 series on up to the 70 ,that is a whole differant ball game ! I feel that the biggest thing that the LT15 has going for it is that it's a low buck entry level/hobby / personal use mill with high end quality in build and lumber production .  It has advantages like being able to add multiple bed sections for long timber etc. If you think that you want to do portable work etc. even though it's a bit more , I would be looking to the LT28 or lt35 . These mills offer more convenience options but are still at a very good price point .  No matter what you decide you will have a nice mill . Don't rule out the possability of trading in for something bigger and better if milling seems to take off for you . I know allot who have . This is only my opinion I hope it has some value .
I bleed orange  .

thecfarm

You said for personal use. That is how my mill is. I have no desire to saw or to sell lumber. I have no idea how much more the diesel is,but I would like it because of all the junk that is in gas now. I feel a diesel can wait for me better than a gas engine.As I said my mill has set for a year without me starting it. I was not building them years. Maybe this year a sugar shack.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

alanh

I have a 15 with power feed, I bought it used, the power feed motor went bye-bye so I pushed for a while until I got around to getting a new one on.....not too big of a deal but definately much less tiring not pushing. I wish mine was wider but I have a lot of support equipment from the day job, I can see the point above of not wanting to handle big logs. Mine is the 19 h.p, does the job but grunts right down often enough, get the 25. I use the pry bar/wedge method and keep a floor jack under it for leveling the log, i have a slide in winch thingy for parbuckling and turning big stuff. Hydraulics would be nicer but I`m never going to be a production guy...

dgdrls

Welcome Drivadesl from a former Hudson Valley resident.

Have you considered any other mills or are you set on a WM?
Lots of great choices in that price range.

Best
D

paul case

I used a hydraulic bottle jack on my manual mill for a toe board.



 

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

WDH

I ran a 15 hp gas on a LT15 for 12 years, then upgraded to the 25 hp with powerfeed for 3 more.  Improved my productivity about 1/3rd.  That is a significant improvement.  I would advise the 25 hp gas and the powerfeed.  It will be as good a manual mill as there is out there.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

scully

I bleed orange  .

Drivadesl

Thanks for your opinions on the LT15.   And thanks for validating my choices, based on my percieved needs, I think this machine will work out real well for me.  IF a hydraulic jack will work to get me started in lieu of a real toe board, looks like a reasonable way to go.  I like the idea of making mods like I've seen by other posters, adding hydraulics and or electric power for lift, clamp and raise functions. 

My first project with the mill will likely be a mill shed.  So need to find a good spot for it, clear out the trees, level it, and start building.  THis will have to wait till spring, so have some time to make my plans.

On question related to the shed, do most of you incorporate a drying structure into a single shed or do you keep it as a separate building?

WDH

Doesn't matter, you are going to over-fill it either way  :D.

It is good to think about this well beforehand.  It is an important consideration.  Building one large shed may be more cost and time efficient.  You have to house the mill under it, have room to stage logs and remove sawdust, bark, slabs, and boards, sticker stack your lumber for air drying, and a place to house your support equipment. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Magicman

Oh my, if you do everything that WDH described above you will have to build another building.  Oops, he did.   :D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WDH

Like I told Deese, it is a slippery slope.  First one thing, then you need another.  Then that spawns a need for another, which brings up a need for another.  Then, a need for another.  Keeps you on your toes, though (old saying).   
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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