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3 point loading

Started by Qweaver, February 06, 2017, 11:52:21 AM

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Qweaver

My new Kubota 2501 will mainly be used to lift logs and other heavy things.  I want to maximize my lift capacity by adding counter weight to the 3PH.  My JD 110 TLB will stall the Hdy before lifting the back wheels (bearly- they get light) I'd like to get the 2501 to the same balance.  I guess just building a steel box and adding weight until I reach that point is one way to do it.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Ox

Some fellas pour concrete into a 55 gal. barrel after putting a large bolt or rod or something through for the lower hitch arms.  Stick a top link hookup somewhere toward the top.  Just another idea.  It should be fine, as long as you don't increase the hydraulic relief pressure.  Doing that might break your tractor.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Brucer

My JD has a special relief valve on the loader arms so it can't lift more than 700 pounds. Even then, it gets a little tippy if I try to lift the maximum load.

My solution is to always have my rear blade mounted when doing heavy lifting. The rear blade weighs about 300 pounds but sits 4' back from the 3 point hitch. That extra distance behind the rear axle gives a lot of extra leverage to a relatively small weight.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

btulloh

Get some pallet forks for the 3pt.  Make a pallet and put some weights on it to use for ballast.  Then you have ballast and you have the rear forks which you can use as well as the front forks.  The rear forks have more lifting capability than the front, so you now have options.
HM126

btulloh

To clarify - the rear forks don't necessarily lift more but being close to rear wheels, they work better for really heavy logs that are close to the max.   With a counter weight that fits the forks, you can add or subtract the counterweight to the front or back quickly and easily as needed.  You can also carry a log on the back and pick up one with the front forks which gives you two logs and good balance. 

Lot's of ways to do it.  This one just works for me.
HM126

park ranger

If you make the 55 gallon counter weight I brought one to the concrete plant and they filled it for free with their x-tra mix at the end of the day.  I had like a 2" pipe for the lower rod on the lower links and a couple of heavy flat bars for the top.  And put a chain hook in the top for moving it.  It weighed 960 lbs when it was full to the top (scale house weighed it).

Qweaver

I filled the box with sand and box and sand weighed just over 300 lbs.  I will replace the sand with steel scrap as it becomes available.  But I was able to stall the hyd without bringing the rear wheels off of the ground, so that may be all I need.  I have the JD 110 on hand for the really heavy lifts anyway.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

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