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40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops

Started by josh j, January 31, 2017, 08:48:49 PM

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ladylake

Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

FalconFan

On longer logs I like to use large nails and run a board across them for my first cut.  I spike a nail in on one end and measure to the center of the log, go to the opposite end of the log and spike a nail in till the head is the same distance away from the center of the log as the first.  Next a run a between the two nails and spike a nail in every 2ish feet and make the nail level with the string. Lastly, I just us a level to add the second row of nails about 6-8 inches beside the first row. Ive gotten where I can do this in just a couple of minutes and I dont have to worry about adding shims to keep the middle of a ladder from bowing.



 

ozarkgem

Don't know about Oregon trees, but if it were here it would be post oak.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

Darrel

No post oak in Oregon unless it's an illegal immigrant.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

ozarkgem

Quote from: Darrel on February 04, 2017, 07:02:43 PM
No post oak in Oregon unless it's an illegal immigrant.
Got me then don't know what it is. Outside my range.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

drobertson

Lots of white oaks, regardless of specific group, nice log very solid, could not help to notice the last bit of hold wood, and wedge witness marks, 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

josh j

I just ordered the MS880 and a 59" bar, granberg mill, and anchor seal.  Would having someone spray the end of the bar with water from a weed sprayer help keep the bar cool?



ladylake

 Sure is going to make some nice white ash slabs
   
                                                                 Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

xlogger

Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

DannyLand

Leave an iron nail or basic 12d common nail lying on the bare wood with some internal moisture present, if the wood stains black around the nail soon after, its some type of Oak, if it doesnt, its Ash.  At least thats what works here in Ct, who knows, maybe your northwestern ash have more tanins or acids in them.  I cant let the tines on my skid steer touch the oak for even a second before it stains it.
    No matter what it is, its going to be a great looking board coming out the end of the process.  The cooler the blade can be and the more help removing chips from the gullets, the smoother its going to cut for you, so yes, it would help having some sort of spray system going.  I would think on a log that large, youre going to want a second person on the dead end of the mill to help get it through the log smoothly unless you have some sort of cranking system with your mill to help drag it down the length.  Good luck with it!
Woodland Mills HM126, Hudson debarker, Jonsered 2171, New Holland skid steer, 1955 International Harvester Dump 132

drobertson

I've got to say the last most recent photo in my mind shows a different angle and view of the bark,  if these folks say its ash, I would be inclined to believe them, I've never seen an ash, I've seen some finished boarded, and to me, it resembles oak, its pretty, no doubt those slabs will be,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Darrel

Oak that tall and straight anywhere in the west just doesn't happen. Besides, it does look like ash.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Gundog

Looks interesting I am just across the river from you in WA if you need a hand sawing it up I could give you a hand. I am 56 years young and have no experience milling but I have ran a few saws. I would be interested in learning how to slab out a big log. Send me a PM and I will give you my contact info if you are interested in a helping hand.

Mike

RPF2509

Get or rig up a supplemental oiler for the bar.  You'll need a valve to control the flow.  That is probably Oregon white oak - a beautiful wood but a long time drying and HEAVY wet or dry. A 2" slab will need a gang of people or a piece of machinery - field looks pretty wet now - maybe sticker and cover on site (above the rain splash) and move later when things dry out.  A ladder and plumbers tape with wedges works well. A little fiddling to get straight and level but it is a fairly quick setup.
www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/23409/thanksgiving_005.JPG
www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/23409/thanksgiving_005

RPF2509

Yeah Jeff so the picture thing is a bit of a challenge if you don't do it much.  It works but is not very intuitive.  I've been on other forums where it takes about 15 seconds never having done it before.  In any case thanks for the opportunity and I understand if it has to be a certain way for whatever reason.

Weekend_Sawyer

You got the hard part done by putting them in your gallery.
Now as you type your reply look down and click the blue bar that says
"Click here to add photos to post"

Jon
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

RPowers

Quote from: ladylake on February 05, 2017, 05:11:58 AM
Sure is going to make some nice white ash slabs
   
                                                                 Steve

After that last pic I agree. Pretty stuff regardless.
2013 Woodmizer LT28G25 (sold 2016)
2015 Woodmizer LT50HDD47

josh j

Yesterday i used the Granberg Mill with the 880.  It worked great for my first time.   I had plenty of help and i hardly had to push on the saw.   

Should i be coating the entire slab with some sort of bug spray or anti fungal something?

I am using wet wood stakes as sticker(temporarily).  what size and type of wood should i be using?

the slabs i cut are 6' long by 3" thick.   i have a real nice 12' log to slab next.   is there a ideal thickness i should be cutting the slabs to?   I would like to make table with these slabs.

i coated all the ends with anchor seal.   also i was using a stihl chain with the 30 degree angle, and every other 2 cutters cut in half, and it gave a fairly smooth cut.   










Darrel

1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

LeeB

'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

plantman

I am doing the same thing as you and just bought a Stihl 880 with 59" bar. Cost me $1900. ( I think I got a good deal ) . I've been looking all over the internet for information about milling and drying lumber and I'm happy to share my findings .
I called this company in Australia with thoughts of buying a double headed bar. http://www.gbforestry.com.au/store/harvester-products/3-4-harvester-bars/titanium-hi-tech-double-ender-bars
However the tech there informed me that power is not always an issue and sometimes a single powerhead works fine. What you need to consider is whether the chain can adequately remove the shavings from the cut and not cut so much that those shavings clog up the cut. Therefore it is essential that you purchase a skip tooth chain. Stihl makes two that will fit their 59" bar. One is a chisel chain with flat ground teeth (some would call them square teeth) . The other chain is a round file chain. I believe the chisel chain is supposed to be more aggressive. Not sure which will stay sharp longer. The chisel chain obviously requires a different file and the average saw shop may not have a flat grinder required for the chisel chain.
Part numbers for these chains are 3668-005-0173 and 3851-005-0173. Forgot which is which.
I have found some good info on treating the wood to prevent mold, fungus, and decay. One product is RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) and this might also help with preventing checking. Another is borax which needs to be mixed in warm water to dissolve it.
And a third is boric acid. Not sure how this differs from borax.
All three are combined in a product called bora-care made by Nisus corporation. But you might make it yourself for less.
http://nisuscorp.com/builders/products/bora-care
http://www.alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/homemade.html
http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/treatwood/borates.html
http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=boric
http://www.borax.com/products/solubor/
http://www.dynalene.com/br-Ethylene-Glycol-Dynalene-EG-5-Gal-buy-online-p/dy-eg-4.htm

Another company that makes Alaskan chainsaw mills if Panther Pros
http://pantherpros.com/panthermill2.html
Before you use either Alaskan mill I think it's a good idea to remove the metal teeth that screw to the powerhead so that the mill attaches closer to the powerhead and is therefore less likely to bend the bar.

philcoleman

Hey all, I'm brand new to the boards, but look forward to getting to know you.

Josh, I'm pretty sure what you have there is an Oregon White Oak, although Ash is a possibility as well. You can check out the OSU tree identifier to double check me.
https://oregonstate.edu/trees/name_common.html

If you have a picture of the leaf shape that should settle it.

I just brought down two of the same in my back yard in Hillsboro, Oregon and am thinking of slabbing them out as well. It looks like it went pretty well for you. Any tips for me?

-Phil

GrizG

Quote from: Andries on February 02, 2017, 12:41:13 PM
Quote from: josh j on February 02, 2017, 10:58:54 AM
Would stacking/S ticketing in a 20' connex to air dry be good?  I am concerned that it would be to airtight
Is a "connex" a shipping container?
If yes, then your concerns are real.
That wet wood will turn the container into a mushroom factory in short order.
I know someone who put fresh sawn white pine in a connex box... what a mess. Mold all over everything. Definitely a bad idea!

Brad_bb

Glad you didn't cut that log in half, as you would've ended up with two 8ft sections after trimming ends.  For slab tables, 10 feet or more is more typical for a dining table.  The 6ft section will work for a smaller kitchen table or other table. 

Hope you got an oiler for the end of the bar.  I'm assuming if you bought a granberg, it came with one of their double ended bars?  Hopefully you bought the oiler from them as they have the set up all ready to go.  I'm surprised you didn't buy their ripping chain(which is a 10 degree chain).    How about posting a pic of your mill?

That wood looks really nice.  Keep the slabs stacked in the order they were cut so you can book match them easily later.  Assuming you'll need more width than 42, you'd mark the two slabs you're using while stacked and rip them to end up with the desired final width, and then put the two book matched slabs together.

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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