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Author Topic: 40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops  (Read 2461 times)

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Online Weekend_Sawyer

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Re: 40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops
« Reply #40 on: February 07, 2017, 12:42:58 pm »
You got the hard part done by putting them in your gallery.
Now as you type your reply look down and click the blue bar that says
"Click here to add photos to post"

Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe. ... and it looks like my dream will come true!

Offline RPowers

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Re: 40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops
« Reply #41 on: February 07, 2017, 09:51:12 pm »
Sure is going to make some nice white ash slabs

 After that last pic I agree. Pretty stuff regardless.
2013 Woodmizer LT28G25 (sold 2016)
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Offline josh j

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It worked!
« Reply #42 on: February 11, 2017, 11:23:38 pm »
Yesterday i used the Granberg Mill with the 880.  It worked great for my first time.   I had plenty of help and i hardly had to push on the saw.   

Should i be coating the entire slab with some sort of bug spray or anti fungal something?

I am using wet wood stakes as sticker(temporarily).  what size and type of wood should i be using?

the slabs i cut are 6' long by 3" thick.   i have a real nice 12' log to slab next.   is there a ideal thickness i should be cutting the slabs to?   I would like to make table with these slabs.

i coated all the ends with anchor seal.   also i was using a stihl chain with the 30 degree angle, and every other 2 cutters cut in half, and it gave a fairly smooth cut.   

Offline Darrel

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Re: 40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops
« Reply #43 on: February 11, 2017, 11:43:49 pm »
1992 LT40HD

The winds of change are blowing at hurricane force and I don't like it but good shall come even though I see not how.

Offline LeeB

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Re: 40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops
« Reply #44 on: February 12, 2017, 02:28:46 am »
X2 on the WOW. That last shot is gorgeous.
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Offline plantman

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Re: 40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops
« Reply #45 on: March 18, 2017, 12:41:14 pm »
I am doing the same thing as you and just bought a Stihl 880 with 59" bar. Cost me $1900. ( I think I got a good deal ) . I've been looking all over the internet for information about milling and drying lumber and I'm happy to share my findings .
I called this company in Australia with thoughts of buying a double headed bar.
However the tech there informed me that power is not always an issue and sometimes a single powerhead works fine. What you need to consider is whether the chain can adequately remove the shavings from the cut and not cut so much that those shavings clog up the cut. Therefore it is essential that you purchase a skip tooth chain. Stihl makes two that will fit their 59" bar. One is a chisel chain with flat ground teeth (some would call them square teeth) . The other chain is a round file chain. I believe the chisel chain is supposed to be more aggressive. Not sure which will stay sharp longer. The chisel chain obviously requires a different file and the average saw shop may not have a flat grinder required for the chisel chain.
Part numbers for these chains are 3668-005-0173 and 3851-005-0173. Forgot which is which.
I have found some good info on treating the wood to prevent mold, fungus, and decay. One product is RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) and this might also help with preventing checking. Another is borax which needs to be mixed in warm water to dissolve it.
And a third is boric acid. Not sure how this differs from borax.
All three are combined in a product called bora-care made by Nisus corporation. But you might make it yourself for less.

Another company that makes Alaskan chainsaw mills if Panther Pros
Before you use either Alaskan mill I think it's a good idea to remove the metal teeth that screw to the powerhead so that the mill attaches closer to the powerhead and is therefore less likely to bend the bar.