40" oak tree to chain saw mill into table tops

[josh j]

I just recently fell this beautiful 42" oak tree.   I plan on purchasing a MS880 and alaskan mill and plan on cutting 3" slabs for table tops.    I am looking for tips on how to slab this out versus the heart cracks(heart crack is T shaped).   Any tips would be great.

Thank you

[Darrel]

Welcome to the forum josh j. I'm not the one to talk to about slabbing with a chainsaw mill. I have no experience in that area. Hey, where are you from? 

[WV Sawmiller]

Josh,

   Welcome to FF. Suggest you update your profile so we know where you are located and such.

   Unless you have other, continuing needs for the 880 and csm why not check to see if there are local sawyers already equipt to do such work in your area. You can check the Extras button here on this site for a local sawyer who might have a slabber to do such work or you can go to the WM site (Sponsor on left) and check their Pro-Sawyer network for local sawyers in your area. Even if they don't have such equipment they may have contacts who do. Good luck.

[Brad_bb]

Welcome.  First go online and order a 5 gallon pail of Anchorseal 2 and seal the ends.  Sealing the end grain is very important to reduce checking.  It will help protect the log while waiting to be milled, and will remain on your slab ends forcing drying to occur through the sides where it will air dry slower and more evenly, to reduce checking.

You'll need a ladder long enough to go past the starting end of the log about a foot and a half at least in order to start your csm cut.  Having it go at least the same amount past the end helps support the saw as you exit the slab cut.  You'll need a bunch of wood wedges to support the ladder in multiple places to make it stable.  Then you'll need some metal strapping from the plumbing section of the hardware store.  It's got all the holes in it.  Lastly you'll need good screws for the strapping.  I use Fastcap Powerhead screws - 1.25 or 1.5".  Remember that your cut needs to be underneath these screws or you'll mess up your ripping chain, and that would not be good.

I recommend granberg alaskan mills.  I have an older one with a 66" bar(which lets me cut about 56").  Do you know how to sharpen chain well?  I use granberg's Precision grinder.  It's a fixture with a small grinder.  Works great when you understand how to use it. 

Try to plan your slabbing cuts so that you box the heart in a slab.  You might get checks in that slab and might not.  If you do, it's a great opportunity to use bowties.  You'll probably get some tiger stripes in that middle slab too and maybe the faces of the two on either side.

Do you just want to make one table?  If so you can just slab one side to get enough slab, then quater saw the rest, or make a boxed heart beam, .....

[LeeB]

Interesting end grain. Oak looks different in my neck of the woods.

[ladylake]

  Looks more like white ash, both the end grain and bark. No matter both are nice wood. Unless your using it that long I'd cut it in  half or a little longer than the planned use, those slabs will be heavy.   Steve

[killamplanes]

The butt cut grains look like a burr oak. The bark more like ash. Trees look a little different other places...

[ozarkgem]

looks like a big Post Oak.

[ladylake]

I think too much sapwood for burr or white oak, I cut a lot.  Steve

[Savannahdan]

You'll also need some wedges to insert into the cut relieving the weight on the bar and chain. 
Enjoy.

[drobertson]

looks like a big Post Oak.

X2

[ladylake]

  Post oak bark doesn't look like the pic.    Steve

[drobertson]

Does here, wonder where he's located? The growth rings did have some perculier waves,  but to say our post oak often times had sapwood like pictured, that said no wonder why he wants to slabit, nice log!

[killamplanes]

My burr oak here has that same color and waves. Not so much sap wood. But kinda post oak bark.

[josh j]

I am located in Scappoose Oregon.  I have been assuming it's a oak tree, but we do have ash in our field also.  I will probably cut the log in half as it is 18' long now and put anchor seal on the ends, so I can wait for better weather to mill it up.  I did call several Sawyer's in Oregon and no one can handle a log that size on their mill. 

There are many more trees like the on in the picture and even bigger.  Way bigger.  If everything goes well milling up the first tree and drying, I may keep going. 

Would stacking/S ticketing in a 20' connex to air dry be good?  I am concerned that it would be to airtight

Thank for the comments.

[Andries]

Would stacking/S ticketing in a 20' connex to air dry be good?  I am concerned that it would be to airtight

Is a "connex" a shipping container?
If yes, then your concerns are real.
That wet wood will turn the container into a mushroom factory in short order.
Sticker and stack outdoors, with salvage metal roofing on top, with lots of overhang.
X2 on the anchor seal.
Three inch slabs will take more than a year and a half to dry down to about 20% moisture content.
Probably more like three years.
Have you considered building a solar kiln for your slabs?

[WV Sawmiller]

   I'm not the go-to guy for wood drying but I would think you could stack and sticker in a connex if you had plenty of ventilation in there to keep the air moving and the moisture pulled out as the slabs dry. Might even put a dehydrator in there to help remove the moisture just be sure to keep the ends well sealed and not to dry too quickly and cause the wood to split.

[drobertson]

Its some kind of oak! At this point who cares,  its pretty stuff,  solid too.

[Jesper Jepsen]

My take on that log would be to mount the ladder so that it's parallel with the center of the log, Then I would cut above (or beyond)  the vertical heart line and by that split the log. The piece with the heart line and the stem of the T I would use a Alaskan minimil to quarter and then mill into boards. The other heart free part I then would mill into planks.
It takes a lot of gas and time to do such big logs and not forgetting something to move the planks with. This is an application where a skip tooth ripping chain may come in handy to keep the chain speed up or to use a dual powerhead setup.

Jesper

[Darrel]

That does look very much like the ash that grows here in Oregon. Anchor seal it and I'll come help you saw it before the weather gets too hot.

[RPowers]

  Post oak bark doesn't look like the pic.    Steve

Looks exactly like Post oak bark around here, butt cut too. Sometimes the Post's here have a more platey bark, but not always.

[ladylake]

  http://www.carolinanature.com/trees/quma6.html

        Nothing like the bark  in the pic plus way too much sapwood for any oak                              Steve

[LeeB]

I can't see any rays in the picture and Oregon is a long way from it's native range.

[Clark]

Nice log! It will be interesting to see that thing opened up.

I never saw much ash when I was out there but everything about that trees looks like the native Garry oak (Quercus garryana) that grows out there.

Clark

[ladylake]

http://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/quercus-garryana


  Garry oak.  Steve

[ladylake]

  http://www.hubbardbrook.org/w6_tour/tree-quiz-stop/white-ash-bark-400.jpg

 

  White ash   Steve

[FalconFan]

On longer logs I like to use large nails and run a board across them for my first cut.  I spike a nail in on one end and measure to the center of the log, go to the opposite end of the log and spike a nail in till the head is the same distance away from the center of the log as the first.  Next a run a between the two nails and spike a nail in every 2ish feet and make the nail level with the string. Lastly, I just us a level to add the second row of nails about 6-8 inches beside the first row. Ive gotten where I can do this in just a couple of minutes and I dont have to worry about adding shims to keep the middle of a ladder from bowing.



 

[ozarkgem]

Don't know about Oregon trees, but if it were here it would be post oak.

[Darrel]

No post oak in Oregon unless it's an illegal immigrant.

[ozarkgem]

No post oak in Oregon unless it's an illegal immigrant.

Got me then don't know what it is. Outside my range.

[drobertson]

Lots of white oaks, regardless of specific group, nice log very solid, could not help to notice the last bit of hold wood, and wedge witness marks, 

[josh j]

I just ordered the MS880 and a 59" bar, granberg mill, and anchor seal.  Would having someone spray the end of the bar with water from a weed sprayer help keep the bar cool?

[ladylake]

 Sure is going to make some nice white ash slabs
   
                                                                 Steve

[xlogger]

for sure that's a ash and a nice one.

[DannyLand]

Leave an iron nail or basic 12d common nail lying on the bare wood with some internal moisture present, if the wood stains black around the nail soon after, its some type of Oak, if it doesnt, its Ash.  At least thats what works here in Ct, who knows, maybe your northwestern ash have more tanins or acids in them.  I cant let the tines on my skid steer touch the oak for even a second before it stains it.
    No matter what it is, its going to be a great looking board coming out the end of the process.  The cooler the blade can be and the more help removing chips from the gullets, the smoother its going to cut for you, so yes, it would help having some sort of spray system going.  I would think on a log that large, youre going to want a second person on the dead end of the mill to help get it through the log smoothly unless you have some sort of cranking system with your mill to help drag it down the length.  Good luck with it!

[drobertson]

I've got to say the last most recent photo in my mind shows a different angle and view of the bark,  if these folks say its ash, I would be inclined to believe them, I've never seen an ash, I've seen some finished boarded, and to me, it resembles oak, its pretty, no doubt those slabs will be,

[Darrel]

Oak that tall and straight anywhere in the west just doesn't happen. Besides, it does look like ash.

[Gundog]

Looks interesting I am just across the river from you in WA if you need a hand sawing it up I could give you a hand. I am 56 years young and have no experience milling but I have ran a few saws. I would be interested in learning how to slab out a big log. Send me a PM and I will give you my contact info if you are interested in a helping hand.

Mike

[RPF2509]

Get or rig up a supplemental oiler for the bar.  You'll need a valve to control the flow.  That is probably Oregon white oak - a beautiful wood but a long time drying and HEAVY wet or dry. A 2" slab will need a gang of people or a piece of machinery - field looks pretty wet now - maybe sticker and cover on site (above the rain splash) and move later when things dry out.  A ladder and plumbers tape with wedges works well. A little fiddling to get straight and level but it is a fairly quick setup.
www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/23409/thanksgiving_005.JPG
www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/23409/thanksgiving_005

[RPF2509]

Yeah Jeff so the picture thing is a bit of a challenge if you don't do it much.  It works but is not very intuitive.  I've been on other forums where it takes about 15 seconds never having done it before.  In any case thanks for the opportunity and I understand if it has to be a certain way for whatever reason.

[Weekend_Sawyer]

You got the hard part done by putting them in your gallery.
Now as you type your reply look down and click the blue bar that says
"Click here to add photos to post"

Jon

[RPowers]

Sure is going to make some nice white ash slabs
   
                                                                 Steve

After that last pic I agree. Pretty stuff regardless.

[josh j]

Yesterday i used the Granberg Mill with the 880.  It worked great for my first time.   I had plenty of help and i hardly had to push on the saw.   

Should i be coating the entire slab with some sort of bug spray or anti fungal something?

I am using wet wood stakes as sticker(temporarily).  what size and type of wood should i be using?

the slabs i cut are 6' long by 3" thick.   i have a real nice 12' log to slab next.   is there a ideal thickness i should be cutting the slabs to?   I would like to make table with these slabs.

i coated all the ends with anchor seal.   also i was using a stihl chain with the 30 degree angle, and every other 2 cutters cut in half, and it gave a fairly smooth cut.   

[Darrel]

WOW!!!

[LeeB]

X2 on the WOW. That last shot is gorgeous.

[plantman]

I am doing the same thing as you and just bought a Stihl 880 with 59" bar. Cost me $1900. ( I think I got a good deal ) . I've been looking all over the internet for information about milling and drying lumber and I'm happy to share my findings .
I called this company in Australia with thoughts of buying a double headed bar. http://www.gbforestry.com.au/store/harvester-products/3-4-harvester-bars/titanium-hi-tech-double-ender-bars
However the tech there informed me that power is not always an issue and sometimes a single powerhead works fine. What you need to consider is whether the chain can adequately remove the shavings from the cut and not cut so much that those shavings clog up the cut. Therefore it is essential that you purchase a skip tooth chain. Stihl makes two that will fit their 59" bar. One is a chisel chain with flat ground teeth (some would call them square teeth) . The other chain is a round file chain. I believe the chisel chain is supposed to be more aggressive. Not sure which will stay sharp longer. The chisel chain obviously requires a different file and the average saw shop may not have a flat grinder required for the chisel chain.
Part numbers for these chains are 3668-005-0173 and 3851-005-0173. Forgot which is which.
I have found some good info on treating the wood to prevent mold, fungus, and decay. One product is RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) and this might also help with preventing checking. Another is borax which needs to be mixed in warm water to dissolve it.
And a third is boric acid. Not sure how this differs from borax.
All three are combined in a product called bora-care made by Nisus corporation. But you might make it yourself for less.
http://nisuscorp.com/builders/products/bora-care
http://www.alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/homemade.html
http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/treatwood/borates.html
http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=boric
http://www.borax.com/products/solubor/
http://www.dynalene.com/br-Ethylene-Glycol-Dynalene-EG-5-Gal-buy-online-p/dy-eg-4.htm

Another company that makes Alaskan chainsaw mills if Panther Pros
http://pantherpros.com/panthermill2.html
Before you use either Alaskan mill I think it's a good idea to remove the metal teeth that screw to the powerhead so that the mill attaches closer to the powerhead and is therefore less likely to bend the bar.

[philcoleman]

Hey all, I'm brand new to the boards, but look forward to getting to know you.

Josh, I'm pretty sure what you have there is an Oregon White Oak, although Ash is a possibility as well. You can check out the OSU tree identifier to double check me.
https://oregonstate.edu/trees/name_common.html

If you have a picture of the leaf shape that should settle it.

I just brought down two of the same in my back yard in Hillsboro, Oregon and am thinking of slabbing them out as well. It looks like it went pretty well for you. Any tips for me?

-Phil

[GrizG]

Would stacking/S ticketing in a 20' connex to air dry be good?  I am concerned that it would be to airtight

Is a "connex" a shipping container?
If yes, then your concerns are real.
That wet wood will turn the container into a mushroom factory in short order.

I know someone who put fresh sawn white pine in a connex box... what a mess. Mold all over everything. Definitely a bad idea!

[Brad_bb]

Glad you didn't cut that log in half, as you would've ended up with two 8ft sections after trimming ends.  For slab tables, 10 feet or more is more typical for a dining table.  The 6ft section will work for a smaller kitchen table or other table. 

Hope you got an oiler for the end of the bar.  I'm assuming if you bought a granberg, it came with one of their double ended bars?  Hopefully you bought the oiler from them as they have the set up all ready to go.  I'm surprised you didn't buy their ripping chain(which is a 10 degree chain).    How about posting a pic of your mill?

That wood looks really nice.  Keep the slabs stacked in the order they were cut so you can book match them easily later.  Assuming you'll need more width than 42, you'd mark the two slabs you're using while stacked and rip them to end up with the desired final width, and then put the two book matched slabs together.