Band saw sharpeners and setters

[Scammell]

Hello everyone! I am an owner of a lt35 HD wood mizer sawmill. I am in the market for a new blade sharpener and setter. I have my eye on the woodmizer products but they are very pricey I find for what I'm looking for. Does anyone have any suggestions of other brands that they have had luck with that might be a little bit cheaper but still keeping quality in mind?

[Grizzly]

When I was looking I did a lot of reading on here and basically decided that I could try for economical or quality but I wouldn't be able to have both. The best machines I found had cbn profile grinding wheels but were beyond my budget. I settled for a cook's cat claw which seems to have a good reputation but was certainly more money than some of the other options I found. Once I found a good hard grinding wheel for my cook's I've been much happier with the result.

[bandmiller2]

Eric I have never used a CBN wheel but sharp is sharp and I've had good luck with my Cats Claw sharpener with the ceramic wheels. If you have local sawyers with band mills you may consider sharpening for them, for that the Cat is very adaptable. If you do much cutting or are at the end of the supply line you will enjoy the freedom of sharpening your own. Buy or make a good setter as that is more tedious than sharpening. Just a matter of time before they pay for themselves. Frank C.

[redprospector]

I decided on a Cat Claw grinder because I have always had good dealings with Cooks. I have other products that they make, and they are quality products. I decided on used because...well...lets face it, I'm a tight wad. I wound up with 2 of them for a very reasonable price. I may try a CBN grinder one day, but for now I'm happy.
There are deals out there, you just have to find them. 

[4x4American]

I see people posting grinders for sale on facebooks sawmill page every so often.  Not sure if there are any in the FF for sale page.  Kbeitz I think is making his own grinder/setter, I think I remember seeing that. 

[Rickcnc]

Once I found a good hard grinding wheel for my cook's I've been much happier with the result.

Could prove a little more detail and what grinding wheel did you end up using?

[4x4American]

Get the ruby stone from suffolk machinery.  It grinds much cooler and keeps it shape better.  Also, make sure your finger pusher travels straight.  Have to fuss around with the gear motor to get it lined up.

[reswire]

Get the ruby stone from suffolk machinery.  It grinds much cooler and keeps it shape better.  Also, make sure your finger pusher travels straight.  Have to fuss around with the gear motor to get it lined up.

What kind of sharpener are you "fussing with"? ;D

[justallan1]

I have a Wright Machine Tool w-37 profile sharpener and a Suffolk tooth setter that I traded wood for a year or so ago. The sharpener is automatic and pretty easy to set up and adjust for different pitch. The setter is manual, but is pretty darned accurate.
From my little experience with the sharpener I would recommend figuring out a blade that you are going to stick with for a good while before you buy a sharpener. The cams for the sharpener are specific for certain profiles and blade manufacturers, within a certain amount. If you don't run the correct cam you will eat up blades and use up wheels.

[4x4American]

Get the ruby stone from suffolk machinery.  It grinds much cooler and keeps it shape better.  Also, make sure your finger pusher travels straight.  Have to fuss around with the gear motor to get it lined up.

What kind of sharpener are you "fussing with"? ;D

Take a wild guess!

[slider]

You can get the ruby wheels from cooks as well and they are a sponsor .

[bandmiller2]

With my Cat I've had good luck with the ruby and the blue wheels the thing to ask for is ceramic be they red or blue. Don't fret over cams unless your band has strange profile most are similar and after a sharpening or two their the same. I sharpen all with the Timberwolf cam, Simonds cam works well too, sharp and set tips are what carries the mail. Frank C.

[4x4American]

I use forum member Cutting Edge's cam on my cat claw.  It works really well for me.  On the stock cook's cam it lifts the head up too high.  On the CE cam, it only picks the head up as high as it needs to go and it follows the profile much more better.  You can even call collect just dial 304-878-3343 and ask for Richard

[Grizzly]

Once I found a good hard grinding wheel for my cook's I've been much happier with the result.

Could prove a little more detail and what grinding wheel did you end up using?

4x4 answered but I'll just add a little.

I had a softer grinding wheel that was loosing shape on one side where it first contacted the tooth face. It would only take about 10 teeth and the shape of the wheel would start to change and then with every tooth not only the wheel was changing but of course the tooth face was no longer grinding to the correct angle. After consulting with Cutting Edge I got wheels from Suffolk and it has made a good positive change. The thought is that this wheel is the hardest of the hard ones. I did not intend to criticize the Cats Claw as I am quite happy with mine.

[Chuck White]

I have a Cook's Cat Claw sharpener and have always had good luck with the blue rocks!

[Cutting Edge]

Scammell,

I'll be the first to say... CBN grinder 100%.  Yes, it may cost you more in the beginning, but you'll get that back and then some because you won't be "fussing" with the other type mentioned.  The main reason is consistency when sawing.  Every blade sharpened by a CBN wheel will be identical in profile, meaning the hook angle, back angle, gullet depth, and radii that give the profile its shape. 

No matter how good you are with what some call a "sweep" or "drag" grinder that uses an abrasive wheel, it is almost impossible to maintain the blades original profile.  There will always be the issue of wheel wear, improper dressing/shaping and machine adjustment that have a direct effect on the profile.  Machines that use a resin bond abrasive in conjunction with coolant do the best at maintaining their shape.

As some have mentioned, the wheels themselves.  You could have a machine that is setup "perfect", but the grinding wheel must be able to maintain it's shape throughout the grinding of that particular blade.  The abrasive particle (shape, size, and elemental composition) must be matched to the bonding agent (vitrified, resin, hybrid epoxy, etc.) and rated for the mandrel speed to get the best friable rate and not overheat the tooth.

...From my little experience with the sharpener I would recommend figuring out a blade that you are going to stick with for a good while before you buy a sharpener. The cams for the sharpener are specific for certain profiles and blade manufacturers, within a certain amount. If you don't run the correct cam you will eat up blades and use up wheels.

Good advice from justallan1. 

Grizzly and 4x4 have also shed some light on their experiences

Don't fret over cams unless your band has strange profile most are similar and after a sharpening or two their the same.

And at the same time completely changed the blade to the point that most, if not all, of the positive attributes of the original profile (hook angle, back angle, gullet capacity, etc.) have been altered/removed.  Blade technology and performance has gone way beyond having "a little hook and a little set". 

We have different cams for a reason.  It is obvious some think it is a waste on money to have them, but there are some of us that know how essential it is to maintain a blade as close to original as possible to keep said blade at it's peak of performance/production... that's what carries the mail.