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Taping Frozen Solid Sawlogs ???

Started by g_man, December 20, 2016, 05:43:00 PM

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g_man

This seems like a silly problem but someone must have a better end on their tape than a bent horseshoe nail. It works fine all year until the logs freeze solid as a rock. So this only applies to places where logs freeze solid. I bend the nail just right so I can hold the tape body in my left hand with the tape end and nail dangling down and the nail hangs perfectly level. A tap with a hatchet drives it into the end grain. Then easy to pry out with the hatchet blade w/o bending the nail. I use the hatchet to mark my cuts.  Work up the log marking and cut on the way back. But with frozen logs the nail bends in a hurry. Either when driven in or pried out. Once bent it no longer hangs right and I have to take my gloves off to hold it perfectly right in order to drive it in. Maybe I'm doing something wrong ?? I don't want to go off and reinvent the wheel so if there is something better I would like to know. Thanks.

gg

coxy


leeroyjd

You need the "quick release" nail. Baileys etc has them. The only time I like them is when it is cold enough to freeze logs.

RHP Logging

I make my own from an eye screw. I wasn't happy with anything I could buy.  Take a grinder to it and make four flat sides and a good sharp point. The back of the eye gives you plenty to push on to get it in the wood. Has to be a squared end tho. Round won't stay.
Buckin in the woods

g_man

Well thank you. Glad I asked. That gives a couple alternatives. If I can't make something that works with a screw eye I'll try the quick release hook.

Coxy, I've watched guys use a stick. Moving so fast it made my head spin. Accurate enough too. My problem would be losing count beyond 8 feet.  :laugh:

gg

Maine372

my loggers tape has the quick release hook from baileys. frozen hardwood sometimes a tap with the fat end of a plastic wedge to get it set in the wood. im also pretty accurate with a fiberglass fence post.

millcreek40

Two 240A Timberjacks, Mack log truck, Multitek 2040 wood processor.

furltech

We use a whip on our saws. Maybe for the winter you could put one on it is a very good system as far as measuring goes

ehp

I use a 8ft 4 inch long plastic pole 1 inch in diameter , marked every 2 feet to make my logs , very light and fast

RHP Logging

How about a four foot saw? You guys and your sticks and whips... Everyone I've met has tried to convince me it's faster then a tape. Yeah ok. If that was true carpenters would use a yard stick when roughing a house. And yes I tried it for a month.  Also tried the short bar thing too.  Not faster when you have to crawl over the log to finish your bucks or climb through the top to cut your pulp on the other side of the crotch.
Buckin in the woods

Mountaynman

RHP you got me laughin almost spit out my hot toddy round here they told me a stick was the way to go to where a tape on both hips depending on which side of the tree I go up tap end in with wedge if frozen to bad I usually walk to the crotch and mark the last log then top the pulp and buck the logs on the way back when you run out of tape you know your cutting gd wd be safe and log on boys
Semi Retired too old and fat to wade thru waist deep snow hand choppin anymore

RHP Logging

Quote from: Mountaynman on December 21, 2016, 07:43:22 PM
RHP you got me laughin almost spit out my hot toddy round here they told me a stick was the way to go to where a tape on both hips depending on which side of the tree I go up tap end in with wedge if frozen to bad I usually walk to the crotch and mark the last log then top the pulp and buck the logs on the way back when you run out of tape you know your cutting gd wd be safe and log on boys

Thats right man! Walk the stem to the end, limbing on the way if need be. Say it's 42 ft to the crotch. OK that's 4 10s. Walk it back marking your lengths (31' 6", 21', 10'6") catch any limbs you missed on the way and buck accordingly. Takes all of about a minute. Maybe less if there are no limbs. Like you said, run to the end of the tape you're in good wood. My saw is 50" long total. That's how I measure my pulp. Every once in a while for whatever reason I will use the saw to measure logs too.  Unless you're getting paid by the hour or the day not sure why you wouldn't use everything available to your advantage.
Buckin in the woods

g_man

For me a tape works best. Trying to get the most out of a tree, working around defects, min top sizes, and what not, is challenge enough for my brain with a tape where at least I can see where I am at any given point and can move back and forth with ease. With a stick I would get lost in a hurry. Anyone who can use a stick to there best advantage in the time vs quality game deserves a lot of credit in my book.

RHP I've been using a sharpened hook eye like you suggested the last couple days. I like it a lot!! At least for frozen wood. My old gnarly fingers don't work that good and trying to hold that little floppy horseshoe nail just right I so could drive it in was frustrating. I used an eye big enough that I can grab right on to - no flopping around. Thank you very much !!!

gg

Maine logger88

I used to use a 4 ft stick marked at 1 and 2 ft and still occasionally do. But now I use a tape 99 percent of the time I find it quicker I run down to the top to see how many ft of logs I can make cut the top off and mark my way back. If I have a bad section I pull the quick release make a scarf and go again
79 TJ 225 81 JD 540B Husky and Jonsered saws

RHP Logging

Quote from: g_man on December 22, 2016, 06:08:23 PM
For me a tape works best. Trying to get the most out of a tree, working around defects, min top sizes, and what not, is challenge enough for my brain with a tape where at least I can see where I am at any given point and can move back and forth with ease. With a stick I would get lost in a hurry. Anyone who can use a stick to there best advantage in the time vs quality game deserves a lot of credit in my book.

RHP I've been using a sharpened hook eye like you suggested the last couple days. I like it a lot!! At least for frozen wood. My old gnarly fingers don't work that good and trying to hold that little floppy horseshoe nail just right I so could drive it in was frustrating. I used an eye big enough that I can grab right on to - no flopping around. Thank you very much !!!

gg

Your welcome! That was my problem too. No leverage with the little horseshoe nails.
Buckin in the woods

RHP Logging

Quote from: Maine logger88 on December 22, 2016, 10:40:43 PM
I used to use a 4 ft stick marked at 1 and 2 ft and still occasionally do. But now I use a tape 99 percent of the time I find it quicker I run down to the top to see how many ft of logs I can make cut the top off and mark my way back. If I have a bad section I pull the quick release make a scarf and go again

Yep!
Buckin in the woods

Ed_K

 I use a tape for everything,logs and cordwood, My trucker has been helping me get the last of the good logs off the job since I got sick, he uses a 6' piece of 2 1/4" flooring marked at 6"-2' and 4' and he's just as accurate as my tape  ;).
Ed K

ehp

here cutting your logs up is all about grade , our sawlogs have 5 different grades and unless you want to skid log lengths with a cable skidder you leave your tree full length and cut it up on very flat ground on the landing . You will not be using a forwarder to get your logs , that is not allowed and impossible to do here . Way to many trees standing in your road , lots of times your 100 feet from the tree with a skidder and that's as close as your going to get . . There is no pulp market here , its getting to the point it hard to sell pallet logs so your cutting just grade logs . As far being slow I'm not buying that , I'm old and as of yesterday morning sent 38,000 feet of grade to the mill so by tonight I will be over 50,000 feet for the week and I work by myself . Its all what you are use to, I find the tape easier on cutting longer timbers in the 30 to 35 ft range but will use my stick on shorter stuff , my main mill likes shorter logs , 8ft 6 in, 9ft 6in is most of my lengths , no 10,11,or 12 ft stuff . If you got a 17 ft  log cut it in half you will gain on scale and grade and make more money . You only cut 13,14,15,16 ft logs if there going to be made into timbers , all logs have 6 inch added to them , timbers pay $275/1000 less than grade logs

RHP Logging

Forwarders are not allowed? I can understand if too hilly. 50mbf in 5 days or 7 days? My personal best was 42mbf in 5 days but that was with 30 cords of pulp tacked on. It was big soft maple in a swamp. Fairly short skid. Bucking in woods obviously.
Buckin in the woods

bill m

I shoot for quality not quantity, it pays better.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

danbuendgen

This is what you need for your tape end. Works good. Screw the 4' stick, tape works better and faster...

http://www.cspforestry.com/Release_Nail_for_Spencer_s_Logger_s_Tape_963RN_p/963rn.htm
Husqvarna ~ TimberJack ~ Dodge Cummins

RHP Logging

Quote from: bill m on December 24, 2016, 09:28:10 AM
I shoot for quality not quantity, it pays better.

I shoot for quality in quantity. Pays even better then that.
Buckin in the woods

RHP Logging

Buckin in the woods

bill m

I have a tape set up with the release nail I will use on occasion. The only problem I have found with it is the inconsistent tension of the spring part of it. I drill a small hole in it and put a screw with a lock nut so I can adjust the amount of tension.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

teakwood

I have never experienced any problem with inconsistent tension on my spencer tape.  Maybe time to buy a new one??
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

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