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Lots of problems with Husky 562XP

Started by MNBobcat, December 14, 2016, 09:17:28 AM

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MNBobcat

I've had to replace the plastic chain break twice even though I've never tripped the break when cutting.  I've had to replace the plastic rewind twice and the dogs (once) that engage the rewind.  The muffler bolts fell out causing exhaust gas to escape and burning a hole through the plastic cover and requiring a new heat shield and new bolts.  I had to disassemble and clean the chain oiling system when it stopped oiling.

I have always owned Stihl saws in the past and I have never had these sorts of issues.  I've only replaced chains and bars on Stihl saws.  I moved from Stihl to husky when Stihl came out with those stupid fuel/oil caps and also partly because I wanted to try a husky.

I'm now considering selling the husky and getting a Johnsered or Dolmar.   Just wondering if other people have had a lot of odd mechanical problems with the Husky saws?  Also, what are your opinions on Johnsered and Dolmar saws?  Local dealer support isn't a concern of mine.  I never take a saw to a dealer. 

ladylake

 
A Johnsered,  and Husky should be about the same saws, too bad all of the big name companys are cheapening up their products just to make more money right now.  Give a Dolmar  6100 or a Echo CS620 a try.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

DeerMeadowFarm

If you've had good luck with Stihl why change?

I've personally always had good luck with Husqvarna. I have a 346XP and two 372 XP's. My brother-in-law has 3 Husky saws and had Husky all his life as well. He just bought a brand new Dolmar because he wanted to "upgrade to something new". That saw has been in the shop twice for starting issues so now he has a brand new saw that stays in the truck all day while he runs the Huskys.

My point to both him and you is fix something that isn't broken?

thecfarm

I have a 372,might be 10 years old. Last year I spent some money on it. Had a couple air leaks. They had to remove the jug to fix one of them. But that is all the problems I had with it. And I use it alot too. I cut wood all summer long with it. I am happy with it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

HuckFin

As far as the Stihl oil/fuel flip caps are concerned, I have never had a problem with the ones on my 362C, makes me wonder if they changed the design on these newer saws.

David-L

I have  had good luck with my 2260 Jonsered so far, and my 2172 and 2188 have been great. I am on my third 2172. I have also had good luck with 7900 dolmars and the 6100 for the price was good to. Someone stole those on me though.
In two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.

nitehawk55

Sometimes problems with a saw aren't the fault of the saw .
I AM NOT BRAND LOYAL !

MNBobcat

I used the saw tonight and noticed the chain break handle is broken again.  That makes 3 now.  Its going up for sale.  Not sure if I'll sell it now or next summer. 

Not sure if I'll go back to Stihl or try a Dolmar.  I've been doing some reading on the Dolmar 6100.  Seems to be really well designed.

cbla

I have had no issues so far with my  562xp. knock on wood

LeeB

I've had no problems with mine either but I don't use it every day. It gets a good workout every now and then but not daily.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

HolmenTree

Three broken chain brake levers?
I suggest run a small radius guard tip bar  and a green chain.....don't put a new chain brake lever on. :D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

weimedog

I like getting those "problem" 562's, especially the toasted ones; for cheap.....bust them down to bits and pieces & build them up my way. A hobby of mine....:) So far, knock on wood!; no problems with any of them..:). Would you take $100 bucks??
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

MNBobcat

Quote from: HolmenTree on December 15, 2016, 08:53:01 AM
Three broken chain brake levers?
I suggest run a small radius guard tip bar  and a green chain.....don't put a new chain brake lever on. :D


LOL!  I've never tripped the brake while using the saw.  I've never had a kickback happen as I'm careful with the saw tip.  So the real question is...how the hell are they breaking?  I've had the saw fall off a log but a 12" fall should not break a brake handle.  I think they are just built cheaply and poorly.

My saw was one of the very first available when they came out.  They've made a lot of design changes since then and I'm wondering if the newer versions of the saw doesn't fix some of the issues.  Though the brake handle hasn't seen a change.

HolmenTree

Here's a pic of my 562XP. One of the first ones manufactured  with well over 1500 hours on it.
The only thing I broke on it was a rear anti vibe spring mount when cutting a few winters ago with a 40 below windchill.
Never had a problem with the plastic chain brake lever .


 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

Quote from: weimedog on December 15, 2016, 11:09:30 AM
So far, knock on wood!; no problems with any of them..:). Would you take $100 bucks??
:D :)
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

DelawhereJoe

Is your saw just running loose in the back of your truck, as you fly down the back county roads at break neck speeds ? That could easily  break the plastic guard if it was cold.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

MNBobcat

Quote from: DelawhereJoe on December 15, 2016, 12:42:55 PM
Is your saw just running loose in the back of your truck, as you fly down the back county roads at break neck speeds ? That could easily  break the plastic guard if it was cold.

No.  It doesn't go out in the woods.  I don't have time to go out in the woods and cut these days so I buy 20 cord each year in 8 foot logs.  (I still save $2,000 in heating costs after buying the wood)

I pick up a pile of logs with the skid steer and carry them over in front of the wood boiler building and cut them right there.  The saw travels about 20 feet between the skid and the boiler building when I carry it back and forth.  I do recall it falling off a log the other day but like I said a 12" fall shouldn't break a brake handle.  But apparently it did.

My frustration is less about the brake handle breaking again as it is the fact that I've had so many obscure problems with the saw.  When the muffler bolts fell out, it burned a hole through the orange plastic cover that sits above the muffler.  I had to drive 40 miles to get a new heat shield and then the dealer didn't know what bolts to give me because they didn't use a consistent bolt size on that saw.  They had different bolts depending on what muffler was stuck on it from the factory.  So I had to run to the hardware store.  I lost about a half day dealing with that issue.  Luckily, my wife was able to run 40 miles to pick up a new rewind pulley when that broke the first time.  I ran the 40 miles to get the new dogs when I replaced the pulley the second time.

I've had 2 stihls which only got new bars and chains and a cleaning now and then.  Never had so many problems with a saw.  I believe I had a bolt on the handle fall out one time too.  Why they don't use a little blue loctite on assembly I don't know.  When the husky runs its a great saw to cut with.

I'm considering ordering a Dolmar 6100 to use as my primary saw and keeping the husky as a backup.

thumper

the 2260/562xp family of saws aren't nearly as tough as the 2172/372  357xp or any older saw.  I have a 2260 that I used every day logging. same problems as mentioned. every time you look at the saw it has something broken. ive replaced the brake handle 4 times, not user fault and now the mounting ear on the right crankcase came right off with the 4th broken handle.  it is now on the basement floor needing crankcases for one lil ear. useless junk.  oh yea after 6 mos the piston pin came loose and ruined the top end.. (waranteed) thankfully.  back to the old faithful 2156
Jonsered 2150 2152 2156 2165  Husqvarna 262xps Worn 1970 JD440a 06 GMC 3500 DURAMAX

DeerMeadowFarm

Quote from: MNBobcat on December 15, 2016, 12:58:02 PM
I've had 2 stihls which only got new bars and chains and a cleaning now and then.
I'm considering ordering a Dolmar 6100 .

These two sentences in the same paragraph make no sense to me. Why buy something other than what has always worked for you in the past? And what happened to the Stihls where you need to replace them anyway?

MNBobcat

The first Stihl I had was one that my dad gave me and it was too small.  The second Stihl didn't break, but the design totally sucked.  I had an MS361 that had those stupid flippy caps and it also had the tool-less chain adjuster.  The saw annoyed me enough that I got rid of it.

I know I could buy another Stihl but they still use those stupid flippy caps.  I hate it when engineers fix things that aren't broken. 

I don't like the outboard clutch on the Husky's either.  Its never been a problem its just a bad design to run an open clutch that gets full of crap from cutting. 

I know there is no perfect saw out there.  But the Dolmar has normal caps, an enclosed clutch and a very nice design on how the chips exit the case. It also has a really great design on the air filter.  The only real drawback I see with the saw is the carb used on the saw.   I don't care about if its a half pound or a pound heavier than some other saw.  I just want something that works and is reliable and that cuts like a banshee.

I'm open to suggestions for other saws to consider.  I wouldn't go smaller than a 60cc saw.  I like to run a 20" bar.
 

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on December 15, 2016, 03:55:24 PM
Quote from: MNBobcat on December 15, 2016, 12:58:02 PM
I've had 2 stihls which only got new bars and chains and a cleaning now and then.
I'm considering ordering a Dolmar 6100 .

These two sentences in the same paragraph make no sense to me. Why buy something other than what has always worked for you in the past? And what happened to the Stihls where you need to replace them anyway?

bill m

So, the only thing keeping you from buying another Stihl is the "stupid flippy caps" ? What is it that you don't like?
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

Enderslbz

I bought an MS 290 in 2000 that had the flip caps on it. I still own the saw today and they have yet to leak a drop of oil or gas. BUT my brother has an MS 361 he bought a few years after and the flip cap on his fuel tank leak ALL THE TIME. I was so confused the first time it happened, having never had that problem on mine, but his really do suck. You have to be super careful when re-installing the cap that you have it just right. I have no idea why, but mine are idiot-proof and his definitely are NOT. SO, I assume he hates them for this reason, if not then I don't understand. I like them. And that tool-less chain tensioner was garbage, so that I get.
Stihl 056AV MagnumII
Stihl MS 361
Stihl 261 C-M
Homelite XL2
Homelite Super 2

MNBobcat

A number of times I would be cutting and one of the caps would fall out, dumping fuel or bar oil and then I'd have to go fill the tank back up and reinstall the cap.

I mean...they aren't the end of the world...a person can certainly deal with that sort of thing...but it was annoying.

Its like the new spouts on gas cans these days....show me one person that likes them.  Yes...you can live with them if you have no other choice...but I doubt anyone will claim to like them.

HolmenTree

Quote from: MNBobcat on December 14, 2016, 09:17:28 AM
I've had to replace the plastic chain break twice even though I've never tripped the break when cutting.  I've had to replace the plastic rewind twice and the dogs (once) that engage the rewind.  The muffler bolts fell out causing exhaust gas to escape and burning a hole through the plastic cover and requiring a new heat shield and new bolts.
MnBobcat, I'm trying to make sense of why you're breaking the plastic brake levers.

I see you mention about muffler bolts and heat shield issues.
I think you still may not have that problem fixed and the exhaust is heating up the brake lever causing them to break.

I'll tell you a story from back in the early 1980's.
Steve Meriam a Stihl rep who is now at the top of the totem pole with Stihl USA paid me a visit with a  038 Magnum with a dual exhaust outlet muffler to try out. He said the factory sent this saw out for testing.
First thing I noticed was the extra exhaust outlet on the rewind housing side was melting the chain brake lever.
Steve said "Dang the Germans over engineered this saw". :D

Anyway's don't blame yourself or your dealer. Even the big guys have a bad day.  :D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

MNBobcat

Ha...yeah sometimes the engineers seem to like to make some simple things way over complicated!

I remember as about a 12 year old kid going to a radio controlled airplane meeting.  This guy had built this gorgeous plane.  I don't recall any more, but I think it was a replica WWII fighter.  The engine was enclosed with a shroud.  All the adults were admiring the plane and commenting on the build quality.  I asked him, "how do you connect the battery to the glow plug on the engine to start it?"  He got this really perplexed look followed by a slightly embarrassed look and then said he hadn't really thought about it!  That led to some good natured laughter.

When I fixed the muffler, I installed new bolts and a new heat shield and I verified that the bolts did not bottom out before tightening to the muffler.  The heat shield could only go on one way so I'm sure I got that right.  But even so, I will check the muffler when I tear the saw apart to replace the brake handle.   I ordered a new brake handle today and should receive it by Monday or Tuesday.  I'm going to check the parts diagram before I assemble it.  I think one side of the brake handle is bushed where it pivots and the other side isn't.  That's what I recall, anyway.  But I want to verify against the parts diagram and make sure that I'm not missing a part that may have fallen out the first time it broke.  Something is not right, for sure.

The local saw dealer said the rewind pulley will break if you drop start the saw.  I'm skeptical.  I've drop started saws for almost 40 years and never had a rewind break.  I do not pull to the end of the rope, either.   After it broke the second time, I did start using the compression release to take some strain off the pulley.  I haven't had any problems with it since I started using the compression release.  When I say "broke" I mean that the dogs that engage the pulley would slip.  I replaced both the dogs and the pulley last time.  Sure wish they would make those pulleys out of metal instead of plastic.  I don't know if that is delrin, or what.


Quote from: HolmenTree on December 15, 2016, 06:30:10 PM
Quote from: MNBobcat on December 14, 2016, 09:17:28 AM
I've had to replace the plastic chain break twice even though I've never tripped the break when cutting.  I've had to replace the plastic rewind twice and the dogs (once) that engage the rewind.  The muffler bolts fell out causing exhaust gas to escape and burning a hole through the plastic cover and requiring a new heat shield and new bolts.
MnBobcat, I'm trying to make sense of why you're breaking the plastic brake levers.

I see you mention about muffler bolts and heat shield issues.
I think you still may not have that problem fixed and the exhaust is heating up the brake lever causing them to break.

I'll tell you a story from back in the early 1980's.
Steve Meriam a Stihl rep who is now at the top of the totem pole with Stihl USA paid me a visit with a  038 Magnum with a dual exhaust outlet muffler to try out. He said the factory sent this saw out for testing.
First thing I noticed was the extra exhaust outlet on the rewind housing side was melting the chain brake lever.
Steve said "Dang the Germans over engineered this saw". :D

Anyway's don't blame yourself or your dealer. Even the big guys have a bad day.  :D

HolmenTree

I remember the time long ago when the rewind pulleys and starter pawls were metal.
They may work fine in warmer climates  but in cooler climates they would ice up and the pawls would stick open and not engage.
The poly on poly actually wears better too.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

LeeB

I try to wear 100% cotton. Not a big fan of poly.  :D :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

DelawhereJoe

If your going with Dolmar / Makita see if you can't find a blue/black Makita model it looks like the new ones are red / black, you should be able to get a good deal on them.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

HolmenTree

Quote from: LeeB on December 15, 2016, 10:23:14 PM
I try to wear 100% cotton. Not a big fan of poly.  :D :D

Good one Lee :D :D
Yeah I just call the plastic poly....simple enough.

I remember or I should say I don't remember the name of the plastic Jonsered said they used when they first announced their new black top covers on their 1988 saws.
Can't remember the plastic name but I do remember them saying it's the same material as on the wings of a F15 fighter jet.

Now that got my attention  ;D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

trapper

Quote from: LeeB on December 15, 2016, 10:23:14 PM
I try to wear 100% cotton. Not a big fan of poly.  :D :D

When it gets cold I wear wool not cotton.  If you work up a sweat in cold weather then get inactive for a while with cotton you will freeze.  I wear merino wool sweaters next to my skin for underwear tops all winter.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

barbender

I have a Husky 346xp that I really like when it's working. The problem is, that seems rare. I know it's a good design and guys love them, and I would too, but mine has always had something or other wrong with it.
Too many irons in the fire

MNBobcat

Used the saw with the broken chain brake handle (back-ordered at baileys) yesterday and it worked fine.  Never dropped it...never bumped it...just used it as normal.  Went out today and picked the saw up and discovered one of the anti-vibration springs was broken in half.  Its the one on the bottom left rear by the saw handle.  I swear...there must be gremlins in the night breaking that saw as it was just fine when I set it down yesterday.  You guys must think I'm beating the hell out of this saw but I kid you not...I carry it about 20 feet from where its stored to where its used and its been treated nicer than any saw that I've ever owned.

Now the challenge is to see if I can find the part in stock locally tomorrow.  I need it this weekend.

brendonv

Quote from: MNBobcat on December 15, 2016, 06:26:53 PM
A number of times I would be cutting and one of the caps would fall out, dumping fuel or bar oil and then I'd have to go fill the tank back up and reinstall the cap.

I mean...they aren't the end of the world...a person can certainly deal with that sort of thing...but it was annoying

Thats operator error tho. Not pushing dowm and seating the cap while turning, cant blame it on the saw. Multiple groundsman sent me up a saw to find out the oil is all over my leg. Their fault, take a second, breath, and seat the cap properly.

My 562 is my only husky. Because of this saw i wont buy other husky equipment, but i will buy more 562s. Mine lost an exhaust bolt, an oil pump, two dawg bolts, and an anti vibe spring. Its cut more trees than my other saws combined. I understand the huskys like to lose bolts so next time ill loctite them from the start.  The stihl equivalent just doesnt do it for me.
"Trees live a secret life only revealed to those that climb them"

www.VorioTree.com

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vorio-Tree-Experts-LLC/598083593556636

MNBobcat

Quote from: brendonv on December 23, 2016, 06:06:50 AM
Quote from: MNBobcat on December 15, 2016, 06:26:53 PM
A number of times I would be cutting and one of the caps would fall out, dumping fuel or bar oil and then I'd have to go fill the tank back up and reinstall the cap.

I mean...they aren't the end of the world...a person can certainly deal with that sort of thing...but it was annoying

Thats operator error tho. Not pushing dowm and seating the cap while turning, cant blame it on the saw. Multiple groundsman sent me up a saw to find out the oil is all over my leg. Their fault, take a second, breath, and seat the cap properly.

My 562 is my only husky. Because of this saw i wont buy other husky equipment, but i will buy more 562s. Mine lost an exhaust bolt, an oil pump, two dawg bolts, and an anti vibe spring. Its cut more trees than my other saws combined. I understand the huskys like to lose bolts so next time ill loctite them from the start.  The stihl equivalent just doesnt do it for me.


Do you see the irony though?  You said its operator error on the caps.  There should never be any such thing as operator error on something as simple as a stupid little gas cap.  :)   Stihl took something that wasn't broke and broke it. 



weimedog

So instead of dragging everyone and everything through this misery....just sell the thing. Get it over with. Buy an Echo CS-590
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

weimedog

Actually I'll go further..since now you have broad cast to the entire chainsaw world it's a broken worthless ADMIN EDIT, its got to sell for cheap...

My $100 dollar offer stands....I'll even cover shipping. :)

Figure it this way, with no more failures you spend less time debugging a saw...time is money, that means that $100 dollars is a bargain because having it out of your life will save you...thousands....:)

And after a while there is the Admin edit factor..obviously its a statistical anomaly. So there has to be something unique to the saw or the environment. Something that explains the plethora of mechanical failures. Rather than waste your time figuring that out....sell it....and one of two things will happen. That ball of trouble will either follow the saw or stay with the environment... and inquiring minds want to know I'm certain, at least there are some who would. :) Would make for a fun video....

( I did have a "first" this week. A 372XT that had from the factory, a crank where the flywheel side "stub" was pushed in with a slight angle. Saw had enough issues to go back to a dealer...those who first did the analysis thought a top end and case seal deal would fix what ailed it....I saw a .100 wobble on the flywheel...saw the top end was perfectly good....tore it apart to find the wobble was from the crank. THAT saw had a pile of mystery ailments is my bet.. )
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

MNBobcat

Sorry to break it to you but this forum is not the world.   LOL.  You need to get offline more and get out and see the world some!

It's not the environment.  There is nothing you know how to do to a saw that I can't do or that I can't fix. 

weimedog

Probably true....but there is an action speaks louder than words factor. My 562's aren't having those issues. And they range from dead saw salvage 2012's to late model ones...:) Pride is a wonderful thing.. sometimes folks, especially the ones who know so much so completely but still have issues; need to get some out side assistance to solve their issues. Hence on line plea's for help. Its either that or this is simply a spam thread. Guess thats possible too, either way hoping you solve the issues or sell it so you can enjoy the holidays. My seat on the couch perspective,  life lived by the computer on line advice?? Sell it and move on with life...:) Get something you actually can service and make reliable...like an Echo CS-590..:) I honestly hope you either fix it, move it along, or store it and find a reliable for you solution..
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

DelawhereJoe

So are you going to go for one of the new 562xp auto tunes that have flooding issues  or try another manufacturer, you've already ruled out stihl due to the stupid flippy caps. Dolmar / Makita or who else around you has good dealer support ?
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510


weimedog

Jonsered cs2260 = Husqvarna 560xp. Small mount cases and related changes otherwise same as 562xp. So those are out, Dolmar 6100's seem to have a good following as do the Echo's. But still waiting for the point of leaving the fly trap out. You seem to have your required data.. gets to be a SOSDD deal after a while.
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

DelawhereJoe

If i remember reading right, the Jonsered are made from the same parts...more or less...as the huskies, so they should have the same issues...more or less. Perhaps the stihl you had just had cap or cap hole issue or they just weren't locked in right, I've had to check mine a few times cause I didn't think they were locked in. It all comes back to Ford, Chevrolet, Dodge, Toyota, Nissan...thing. If its bin good to you buy another one, if not try something else but theres always duds out there no matter who makes it.
Missed it by that much.....
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

weimedog

Jonsered has different plastic, different paint on the cases but the core of those Husqvarna/Jonsered 60 something cc saws in that class fall into a couple of groups:
Small mount cases with stuffer cranks & "562" top end ignition etc. (for example 560xp & 2260 )
Small mount cases w/o stuffer cranks & "555" top end ignition, carb etc. ( for example 555 & 2258 )
Large mount cases with stuffer crank & 562 top end, ignition, carbs essentially the 562xp

Here's the thing. The guy has all that back ground & capability and we are still trying to add some cheeze to the whine. There are at least 15 guys here who both know a LOT more about those saws than I do and could have that saw in pieces to figure out whats going on, likely a vibration issue..assuming there is an issue and this isn't a spam thread. If that was my saw? And there were mysterious breaks and anti vib breaks, that saw would have the crank out the very same day. Check the stuffers, the crank for dimensional issues/balance issues, bearings, and if possible the cases to see that those bearing pockets aren't noticeably out of alignment, ( tricky and takes a little machine skills to build a tool to do that my way and.. yup I do have that capacity.) So since none of that has happened, that means one of a few things (none of which are an issue for this couch sitter)...its a money issue and there aren't spare saws to back fill the need or ability to buy a backup saw, there actually isn't a lot of saw work going on so its not needed, there isn't the skill set required to figure that out,  lacking the tools to get into that saw, or some combination of those.   (BTW, check with your Husqvarna dealer but cases & cranks don't have to be terribly expensive ) But with all that knowledge, I figured there would be a solution by now. Or at least a defined reason we all could learn from. Instead we have snarky responses and this drone of bad gas about those saws. Please buy something you can actually deal with and give us the good stuff about your new toy.

Would like to bring this to a happy ending...:) and hear about the successes of the new direction or solution to the problem.....every mechanical issue has a root cause...
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

MNBobcat

Picked up the new anti-vibration spring and it has a cloth strap around it, held on by a grommet through which the bolt passes.  The spring on mine did not have that strap.

Presumably the strap limits movement to keep from over-stretching and breaking the spring.  Given they made this change, they must have had an awful lot of these springs breaking. I assume the newer versions of the saw has the new springs and thus less likely to have that part break.

DonT

Any trouble I have had with my 562s has been on hot starts. Most issues have been my own,as I have not followed the proper starting procedure for these saws.They are a great saw , but I still love my 372xps.

brendonv

Quote from: MNBobcat on December 23, 2016, 07:36:00 AM
Quote from: brendonv on December 23, 2016, 06:06:50 AM
Quote from: MNBobcat on December 15, 2016, 06:26:53 PM
A number of times I would be cutting and one of the caps would fall out, dumping fuel or bar oil and then I'd have to go fill the tank back up and reinstall the cap.

I mean...they aren't the end of the world...a person can certainly deal with that sort of thing...but it was annoying

Thats operator error tho. Not pushing dowm and seating the cap while turning, cant blame it on the saw. Multiple groundsman sent me up a saw to find out the oil is all over my leg. Their fault, take a second, breath, and seat the cap properly.

My 562 is my only husky. Because of this saw i wont buy other husky equipment, but i will buy more 562s. Mine lost an exhaust bolt, an oil pump, two dawg bolts, and an anti vibe spring. Its cut more trees than my other saws combined. I understand the huskys like to lose bolts so next time ill loctite them from the start.  The stihl equivalent just doesnt do it for me.


Do you see the irony though?  You said its operator error on the caps.  There should never be any such thing as operator error on something as simple as a stupid little gas cap.  :)   Stihl took something that wasn't broke and broke it.

Haha, yes and no. If you cant put a cap on, should you be using a chainsaw? :D


Im not a chainsaw guy, but use them daily. I dont get my kicks off brands and what not. Maybe your 562 is a first production model. They always get better with time.
"Trees live a secret life only revealed to those that climb them"

www.VorioTree.com

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vorio-Tree-Experts-LLC/598083593556636

DonT

Probably not a climber out there Brendonv that has not dumped  a tank of oil or gas out of their 200T at 30ft.I know I have.

MNBobcat

It for sure is a first production model.  I got the first one the dealer received.

Quote from: brendonv on December 23, 2016, 06:44:01 PM
Maybe your 562 is a first production model. They always get better with time

bill m

Of the few times I have a problem with a fuel or oil cap ( screw in or flip style ) it has been my fault, not the cap. There is nothing wrong with either one but I prefer the flip style.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

barbender

Chainsaws are becoming a sidebar up here with the heavy mechanization, but I haven't heard any positive opinions of the 562 out of local loggers that are using them. They hate them.
Too many irons in the fire

pineywoods

Flippy caps...I have both flip and screw types. There was a problem with the early flippys..The rubber gasket would swell so bad, you couldn't tighten them..Alcohol gas..Still switched to a different material for the gaskets, that solved the problem...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Jeff

MNBobcat, 

Would you mind letting us know a little about you, for example, your age?

Also to everyone that this statement may apply, this conversation seems to have a very un-Forestry Forum like tone to it.  Be careful on how you proceed....
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

weimedog

There have been many changes since they first were introduced....to include the following I know of:
1) The actual case screws
2) Pull Starts
3) Cases.....from five to six case screws.
4) Carb/Ignition combos. I've seen el44,46,and 48's
5) Top Covers
6) Pistons....
There are others. The first ones had some issues. The 5 screw cases like to leak bar oil under the muffler. A solvable issue. Several changes to the Ignition/Carburetor & software, I've actually had good luck with the el48's. AND interestingly enough one saw with a 46 runs really well.

There are some that appeared to have "heat soak" issues where the gas in the carb would boil making restarting on a hot day after a hard pull interesting. Seemed to be a saw specific thing. Most don't have that issue. Some very high profile cases did and set an online tone. I have literally tried to replicate that on my saws and have yet to have that issue. BUT recognize there are those who did. One got another saw and we are patiently waiting to see how that turned out! (You know who you are)

But the thing is, as with all things mechanical; its a statistical game. I was a "562" skeptic. Actually posted to that effect I think last year. Holmantree, without his knowing it; shamed me into giving them a try. Of course with me...thats really emersing into the vat  vs. being a rational human. Put my 372's in the retirement home.

But back to statistics. Every saw has statistical issues. that's why there are service bulletins and upgrades. Also why manufacturers have warrantee plans. Some saw have more than others....Spike60 points out the much raved on 262's had more than the 562's....But why the major brands like Makita, Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna etc. are the best choice for 90 percent of the folks out there.

562's had a rough start where I am in the states, but have now turned into a popular saw. Same as the 576's did after the initial 575 didn't fly well. Other brands have similar issue with new designs.....and very few have as successful a saw intro as say..Husqvarna with the 371/372 OE or Stihl with the 046/MS460's..saws like that just set such a high bar, anything less is considered an issue. Both Stihl and Husqvarna also have to put "bleeding" edge technology on the market and both are where they are in the market place because of how they deal with the product evolution.

Hopefully posting/threads like this help those who are using a particular saw get a heads up and a head start on solving issues to increase the chance of success with their chosen saw. Really hoping we end up there with this thread.

At this point? I really appreciate the ones I'm using. Great saws. I have a couple, one built out of the lesser desired junker parts and one built on a 2014 model. Both serve me well and have extended my useful saw life because of the combination of ease of starting, weight, vibration, power, and fuel usage....:) Just a humble opinion......
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)


barbender

MN, it looks and sounds like you're a busy guy. What area of the state are you located in?
Too many irons in the fire

Jeff

Thank you MNBobcat for the info. Very interesting and much appreciated :)

I'm not really a moderator. I'm the Forestry Forum inventor ;)
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Corley5

I assume being from Minnesota you're growing U Of Minn releases like Marquette, Frontenac variants etc?  We've got a 6,000 vine vineyard over here consisting of those varieties and some older Swensons along with a more recent Plocher release.  Your vineyard looks nice.  A winery is looming in our future as well.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

MNBobcat

Hi Corley,

Small world!  We have Marquette, Frontenac, Frontenac blanc, Frontenac Gris, Brianna, St Pepin and a few somerset seedless.  We're planting 800 Itasca in the spring.

Have you started planning for the winery yet?


Quote from: Corley5 on December 24, 2016, 05:55:12 PM
I assume being from Minnesota you're growing U Of Minn releases like Marquette, Frontenac variants etc?  We've got a 6,000 vine vineyard over here consisting of those varieties and some older Swensons along with a more recent Plocher release.  Your vineyard looks nice.  A winery is looming in our future as well.

HolmenTree

MNBobcat, I hope you have better luck with your future  winery then you do with your 562XP.   :D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

George Zarifis

I've had the stihl MS 261 C-M for 1.5 years right now and I've had zero problems with it. I've heavily abused it, made it stall many times by pressing too  hard, I've even dropped it from a tree onto asphalt and nothing broke (actually it kept idling on the ground!). Granted its a bit smaller than the husky 562 but I assume that the bigger stihls will be just as good. Personally, I would go with a stihl any day of the week. And I don't see what the problem is with the new oil/gas caps. Personally I really like them and as far as I know the provide a good seal. I've never had any problems with them...
Every man's proble can be solved with a chansaw and high explosives. And a gun. And maybe a screwdriver. A cordless drill wouldn't hurt either.

I think a truck full of tools will do...

killamplanes

I run 2 new 661 don't care for flip lids Almay liked the screw caps on 660. Just me, when u over fill and put this flip cap on u get oil or gas on gloves, so u were it rest of day. The older screw cabs I used the bar wrench screwdriver, to put them on and my gloves stayed clean. When u go thru 2 gallons of fuel a day and gallon of oil ur gloves are pretty much a mess.
jd440 skidder, western star w/grapple,tk B-20 hyd, electric, stihl660,and 2X661. and other support Equipment, pallet manufacturing line

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