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my new 'girl' (a TJ200)

Started by krusty, December 08, 2016, 07:29:26 PM

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krusty

So far the skidder has run all winter without issue. Though I am just cutting firewood and a few saw logs myself.

The front axle Ujoint needs to be replaced and if I take that axle shaft out once I might as well do them all at the same time.

From the transfer case, there is a Ujoint, short section of drive shaft, another Ujoint. Then a longer section of drive shaft, then Ujoint at the front diff. At the rear portion of the long drive shaft, it is held in place by a bearing of sorts to the frame. While it is caked in grease and I have yet to clean the gunk off, how does one get that shaft from the bearing, or the shaft out of the frame. You would have had to seen it to understand it :)

I really dont want to be pressing out the front end Ujoint from underneath the machine if I dont have to.

Crazy winter, freeze, thaw, flood, repeat. Am cutting ash in a swamp.

bushmechanic

There are two studs welded to the block that the bearing is in. The nuts have to removed from behind the bracket that is welded to the left side of the frame. Remove the nuts and the complete driveshaft can be removed with the steady bearing. To remove the steady bearing you must remove the yoke next to it. Don't forget to index your yokes when doing u joints!

krusty

Bushmechanic that makes perfect sense thanks! I could feel the hex heads on those studs but since they were covered in years of fluid it did not make sense. But now it does. Appreciate it!

Oh and I am always careful on yoke alignment.

krusty

Hi folks,

I am ready to start hauling my firewood out of the woods but will need to use my TJ to pull my dump trailer through the muddy spots given the rain we have had so far this year. It should have been well dried out except for these 1 in 100 year rain events.

The last couple times I went in to move things around, it would only start and run for a min or 2 before it would die without full choke and now it wont start at all. The carb and ignition is new. It would run fine for 60 seconds without issue. I thought maybe clogged fuel filter so changed that with no issue and the fuel flow out of the tank is good. Took my carb off and ran it through my ultrasonic cleaner and will reinstall this weekend. Will also confirm spark at the plugs.

I am pondering whether some rain has entered into the tank somehow given how torrential it has been coming down. Next step will be to drain the tank and fill with fresh fuel. Seems like it is one of the few things it could be. Any tidbits appreciated!

Also pondering where I should put a hitch on the TJ to tow my dump trailer through the wet areas or just pull it through with the cable?

Corley5

Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

krusty

That is an easy fix....will pick one up tomorrow as well. I guess I should have put my resistor back in the circuit too in the winter. I took it out as had more ignition issues until I realized the wire from the coil to distrib was in poor shape. With that in order it ran super solid until this issue.

North River Energy

If it was running, and now it's not, and the only thing between the two is time and humidity, then your points may be gunked up. If/when/before you change the condensor, remove the points and drag some emery paper between the contacts until they shine.

Corley5

They don't make points and condensors like they used to. 
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

whitepine2

Quote from: Corley5 on June 28, 2017, 05:02:42 PM
They don't make points and condensors like they used to.
No they make electronic today put a set in my M farmall
and starts one turn nothing like it but don't need to worry about points any more,should have had then years ago,was told about them
but ya know how it is just didn't do it stubbing  I guess. Try it I'm sure you will like, good luck

bushmechanic

You had better put that resistor into the system for sure. That cuts the voltage down so your points don't burn up, which is most likely what's wrong now.

Corley5

I've got Pertronix systems in a couple old Farmalls and a JD.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

krusty

I do see Pertronix available for the 172 but expensive here in Canada. Will grab it on my next work trip to the US. In the interim will put points and a new condenser in this weekend and will let you all know.

krusty

New points and condenser were put in and made no difference so I added a new coil and we are back in business. Also put in a new 1.5 ohm resistor and with it in the circuit, I only had 6v across the coil. It is not enough to give good spark when warm. Will try a 1 ohm resistor which should bring it up 7 v or should I just go for a .75 ohm and get it up to 8v? I heard the UC12 coils were happiest at 8v.

Thoughts?

mike_belben

I put a big $ pertronix in my 1.6L gas bobcat and it burned up in a month. Not happy with them.

Its typical to have a high voltage start current and a low voltage run current through your breaker points.  Example, your crank position wire bypasses the external resistor but your run position on the ignition switch goes through coil and resistor.  Say 11v cranking and 7v running. 

Praise The Lord

krusty

I called the tech support number for SMP to get an idea of ideal voltage and max current for one of their coils. The individual seemed pained to find an answer for my questions.

Running the UC12 with no resistor gives me excellent results engine wise but of course will eat coils.

Measured voltage across the coil when hot was 6v on a full battery. That seems a bit low and also not enough spark to make the engine run well. Currently using a 1.5 ohm resistor and the UC12 has 1.3 - 1.5 ohm resistance so that math makes perfect sense. Ordered a MSD8214 resistor at .8 ohm which should give me 7.2 - 7.8 v across the coil. Stay tuned on results.

bushmechanic

You seem to be on top of this! I always thought it was cut down to 6 volts while running. I know some systems use 12 volts for starting then through the resistor for running. Trouble is if you put it direct voltage then it will go to what the alternator puts out, say 14 volts.

krusty

Bushmechanic....

I thought I read somewhere else that the ideal voltage for a UC12 coil was around 8v. As for the 12v start, you will see starter solenoids with an in and out for high current and then 1 or 2 terminals in the 1/8" range. If it has one, it is to activate the solenoid. If it has 2, 1 is to activate the solenoid, the other is to connect to the + terminal on the ignition coil thus bypassing the resistor and is only activated when the starter is cranking.

There is an alternator on my old TJ but wiring that up is on my todo list :) Since it left my house back in the winter is has been in the woods with only fluid top ups and an ignition coil.  I will bring it back home in the fall for a once over before the cold comes.

krusty

@bushmechanic do you know what SAE bellhousing size is on the Ford 172 in these? Well I guess it would be on the tranny portion but I have a lead on a good 353 to swap in. Everything should fit fine but want to be sure it will make up to the existing tranny. The 353 is a good runner and cheaper than a 172 rebuild parts and minimal machining as required.

bushmechanic

The bell housing will have to change on the gearbox, you will also need an adaptor plate to get to the SAE # of the engine's rear housing. I'm not sure if a 353 will fit into that frame... a military aluminum one might because of the low basepan. A front sump oilpan will be on top of the front differential. I'll try and get some pic's so to help you understand.

krusty

Ya the sump looks like it will be a problem. When I take the 172 gasser out, once the front bolts to the frame mount are out can I tilt the engine up and forward or do I need to take the tranny out too? It is caked in oil at the back of the engine so am not sure if I can just disconnect from the bellhousing and remove engine or does the tranny need to come with it?

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