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my new 'girl' (a TJ200)

Started by krusty, December 08, 2016, 07:29:26 PM

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krusty

Hi folks,

Most of my posts have been on the timberframing side of things and it is time to build a cabin in the woods. Having midlife crisis, I thought a nice old skidder would be better than a fast car so I found myself a 1963 TJ 200. It has the Ford 172 gas in it. I have yet to take it into the woods as I want to spend some time going over it first. It runs and drives fine, a tweak of the winch and will test its strength tomorrow. Lots of small little things to fix on it. Manifold, rewire, lube and fluids etc but nothing major. Oh it should get a new tire. I should say I hope there is nothing major I find!

Want to redo the carb at some point and the manual says it is a TSX but the carb body is definately a zenith. Will take it off tomorrow to see if I can find a tag but this one has me stumped....if there are any zenith carb gurus pls let me know. I am hoping most of the 172 engines with zenith used the same base carbs, gasket wise anyways.

Will get some pics up in the next few days. Its sole purpose is firewood any any nice saw logs I come across. Nothing production oriented.

Krusty,

Gearbox

Has that one got a long lever to operate the winch . I ran one like that 40 years ago liked it .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

Neilo


furltech


krusty

Where was I.....

yes it is the model with the long lever to activate the winch.

while I do like NS, I am about 12-15 hours west :)

And I will get some pics or video in the next couple days when it warms up a bit.

furltech

Only reason i asked is i was looking at the mate to that machine and was thinking about making an offer and i see it is off of kijiji just wondered if you had got it

krusty

Sorry I forgot to upload a pic. Changed 2 tires, ignition components, manifold to make sure I was happy. There is one gremlin with it running, needs to be on 1/4 to 1/2 choke and it runs fine with lots of power. Have torn apart the carb 3x and still cant find out why. So I broke down and ordered a new carb. I cannot see any other issue with it but will know by next weekend when the carb arrives. The winch seems to work fine. Able to pull myself backwards. Topped up fluids and will need a seal at one wheel/axle. Once the carb issue is resolved there is one more thing I would like to do before it heads into the woods on a warm day....add brakes!

I do have the factory manual from JD and at some point the brake drum was removed. I have seen a couple posts on TFF about using a rotor and caliper from a small car. That is what I think I will try as I do have a good machinist friend if needed. Have yet to pop off the drive shaft from the transfer case yoke to see how it would get attached. Any wisdom appreciated!

Feels good and hillbilly to drive it around the yard :D



Ridge235

Hello krusty congrats on your new girl. Looks like she's gonna workout well for you. You mentioned you were able to obtain manuals from Deere, even on this old of machine? Just curious because I have what I think is an early 70s 225 and they told me they have no record of it.  :new_year:

barbender

Sweet machine! Yeah, if you were able to get any info out of Deere about an orange TJ you're a way better man than me ;)
Too many irons in the fire

Neilo

I think all the brake conversion will have been done to the New Process transfer case, not the old style which should be in yours. Some of the old brakes were mechanical, some hydraulic. Does this one hydraulic brakes originally?

More photos would be great.

bushmechanic

I have an old TJ 201B same as that one you have there. I put the disc brake on mine and it works great as my driveway is very steep. Mine came with a drum system on it and parts were too hard to find. I used what I had kicking around at the time, a front disc brake and caliper from a 1995 Dodge Dakota. Just make sure when you install it that the bleed nipple is up so you can bleed it. I see someone has extended the arch also. Timberpart's have those seals in stock for the wheel end's.   

tacks Y

Have you drained the gas and put new ethenal free gas in it? ( sorry about spelling ) This worked for me on an old Huber. Nice skidder.

krusty

Hopefully this link is OK with the admins:

https://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/index.cfm/manual/WC204_LC/

Is what I have. PM me for more info for those who are interested. The manual is 'interesting' to say the least. Parts diagrams are decent, but the service tidbits are lacking compared to a real deere manual.

It does have fresh gas and flows fine out of the tank. I have an old Allis D grader and JD 40C and they purr like kittens but this carb has me stumped. All of my old machines have nice patina and they start on 1/4 crank and that is what I want for this TJ as well. It impresses the neighbors ;)

As for brakes, it had a hydraulic system which is missing the drum hence why I wanted to add something different.

Bushmechanic could you share a bit of detail on how you attached the rotor to the yoke/output shaft and how you attached the caliper? There is still a master cyl in the cab that is not seized and can get going again. To me what you did seems the best option.

bushmechanic

A picture is worth a thousand words they say. I removed the backing plate and used a couple of washers to space out the bolts, if not the bolts will strike inside. I drilled the rotor with four new holes to fit the yoke then used longer bolts to bolt the rotor and yoke together. I would have made a bracket to mount the caliper to the transfer case but the caliper was for the wrong side so I welded it in place on the right to the machine body. Don't forget to put the caliper sliders on too. This should give you an idea, hope it helps.

  

  

  

 

krusty

Was down in TX this week and had my new Zenith 13875 carb delivered there to save on shipping and taxes. What I do appreciate about this machine is the ease of working on it (so far) as it took about 5 mins to install.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyPXBMRff2g&feature=youtu.be


Had to adjust it but was rather simple. Now I am happy. It started right up as well when installed. The throttle linkage is off by about 1/8" from before but just need a stronger return spring. As well, the choke linkage was set up for a rigid shaft with ball joint, so I added that, but have to hold the choke on while it warms up as it is not like the cable mechanism where it stays out until you push it back in.

krusty

Thanks for the pics Bushmechanic. The new rotor is coming this aft and thankfully is cheap. From what I can tell, I will undo the yoke where the old brake was. Will also need to take the output shaft off. There is some type of flywheel on there at the moment. Then drill the 4 new holes and put it back together. Once I have that done I can order a caliper and attach it too.

krusty

Yesterday I put the brake rotor on. Was on my way to my machinist friend to help me get the 4 holes drilled for the output yoke. I was worried that I would not have it aligned so I would get him to do it. Stopped in for a drive through coffee and while waiting in line I popped the output yoke into the center of the rotor and realized it was pretty self aligning with the taper on both parts. So I drove back home and drilled the 4 holes myself. Installed it yesterday and tried it out. Quickly understood why Bushmechanic needed spacers so I added them this AM and all is good now running true. Cut down a 10" oak just to make sure things were working good before I head out to cut firewood this week and the winch was fine.

Still need to add the caliper and a seatbelt and away I will go.

krusty

Should add, it is a bit cramped and awkward working in there forsure! Put in a new Ujoint to as there was play in the existing one at the top of the shaft.

bushmechanic

I'm sure you'll "get er done"! Did you buy that machine from Kelly? Yes it is cramped trying to do anything around the transfer case on those machines. I think you will find it's a capable machine for firewood.

krusty

Spent about 6 hours so far cutting and skidding and it is plenty good for my needs. It has been a mild winter and am breaking through the frost when I winch up and drive out so will just go with 1 or 2 trees at a time when I am in the swamp. Finally figured out the free spool option on the winch too. Last little tweak needed is to stop the PTO engaging handle from popping out.

Any suggestions on where to get chokers? I broke 2 so far. They were well used and might as well stock up on replacements! Am in Ont but can get them shipped to NY for US based businesses as well.

GRANITEstateMP

  Labonville in NH or ME has them.  Pretty sure they wouldn't mind shipping them to NY, heck sure they have dealt with Canada plenty too!  I got my chaps from them, good product (so far).

https://www.labonville.com/
Hakki Pilke 1x37
Kubota M6040
Load Trail 12ft Dump Trailer
2015 GMC 3500HD SRW
2016 Polaris 450HO
2016 Polaris 570
SureTrac 12ft Dump Trailer

larry1

I operated the same machine when I was only 15 . It had a great winch and I skidded big veneer back in the day . We overworked it and the gas engine blew up , so we installed a 6 cyl int. gas by extending the front end 18 " -then we had lots of power !!! --HAVE FUN !!

deerguy

Krusty, if you want to buy in Canadian dollars, there is Sling Choker stores across the North. I bought chokers from their North Bay location, but there might be one closer to where you are....??? An option at least.....
I knew she was a keeper when she told me to buy the old skidder !!!!!

krusty

I found a place in NY that had them available and was 1 day shipping for free. Cant beat that.

Larry1: it has been a hoot to drive and am much more skilled in a short time. Since I am select harvesting I am only dragging a couple trees at a time and it has plenty of power. I wish I had a video of what I did last winter for firewood....a '71 Skidoo alpine pulling a plastic ice sled 1/4 of a cord at a time.

This year is sooooo much quicker and am making a nice skidoo trail through the woods.

Today started running real rough until it died. Then I realized the gap and the points seemed to be to close. Opened them up a bit and off we went.

Gearbox

Lube that point cam or it will wear the rubbing block off and will quit again .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

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