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round edge sawing question

Started by Jim_Rogers, December 07, 2016, 09:11:30 AM

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Jim_Rogers

I wanted to ask you guys about how to go about sawing a 2" x 24" x 14' piece of eastern white pine with round edges on both sides and have it come out right. And by come out right I mean that it is 24" on both ends without any taper.

I was thinking about this should I get the order mentioned in "What are you sawing".....

If I saw it as I would normally saw a log with the pith level to the bed:



 

I'm going to get a piece that is wide on one end and narrow on the other, right?

But if I saw parallel to the bark like this:



 

Won't the piece be the same width from one end to the other?

Jim Rogers

PS. If not this way, how would you do it?
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

LeeB

If the log is tapered and you want live edges you will get a tapered board out it.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Ga Mtn Man

You will need to raise the small end so that the blade exits the log where it is 24" wide.  Think of it this way:  If the log is 24" diameter on the small end where would you need to cut?  The blade would need to exit the log at the pith, on the small end.  If the log is 30" on the small end you would need to exit somewhere above the pith.  Where depends on the diameter of the log. 
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Remle

Ga Mtn Man is correct. Simply measure each end of the log as to where you reach 24" across and level those two points. Of course this will also cause a Significant Decrease in the Structural Integrity of the piece by cutting across and through the growth rings.  The closer the two end diameters the less effect on the Structural Integrity of the piece. One would be well advised to explain this to the buyer..

Ljohnsaw

Or, trade your eastern white pine for some western Lodgepole pine that has virtually no taper in 14'! :D
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

DDW_OR

when i picked up my sawmill at http://southwestideas.com i saw this in their showroom



  


 
"let the machines do the work"

Kbeitz

Remember that your live edge on the butt side is not going
to be flat. It will have the curve of the log in it if not centered.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Remle on December 07, 2016, 10:52:48 AM
Ga Mtn Man is correct. Simply measure each end of the log as to where you reach 24" across and level those two points. Of course this will also cause a Significant Decrease in the Structural Integrity of the piece by cutting across and through the growth rings.  The closer the two end diameters the less effect on the Structural Integrity of the piece. One would be well advised to explain this to the buyer..

Yes, I believe this method will give me a 24" side piece from end to end. And I do understand that this will have some cross grain to it but hopefully not much.
I will photograph it when and if I do it.

Thanks to all for your advice and comments.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

fishfighter

If your white pines are anything like our southern SYP trees, most butt logs that are 24" on the big end will carry 24" at 14' up.

4x4American

Go to a big lumber yard that sells live edge bartops, and sort through until you find what you need, buy it, and then sell it to your customer for more $.  That's been one of the easiest ways I've found lol.  Theres a sawmill near me who sells pine bartop slabs for $20/ea to me.  For that price I find it cheaper and easier to buy and resell lol.


If you have to saw it yourself, just measure twice and cut once.  Def. tell the customer about slope of grain but I'm sure he ain't gonna be driving a truck over it so it may be fine
Boy, back in my day..

Brucer

Jim, by measuring 24" across both ends, if there's any significant taper you won't be sawing exactly parallel to the bark -- so use the methods suggested in the previous posts.

I doubt that slope of grain will be an issue. From the Softwood Grading manual ...

For Select Structural grades (the highest of the structural grades)
  Structural Joists and Planks -- maximum slope of grain = 1:12
  Beams and Stringers -- maximum slope of grain = 1:14

That means in a 14' long plank, you can deviate 1 foot from being parallel to the grain over the length of the log :o. You won't be anywhere near the maximum -- not even close.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Jim_Rogers

Thanks for everyone's advice.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

kelLOGg

Interesting job, Jim. What are the large and small end diameters of the log?
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 08, 2016, 05:52:42 PM
Get some logs with no taper.
Easy to say, not so easy to do.

kelLOGg
I have one log picked out from the pile but I haven't measured it up yet. The pile was a little icy since it snowed the other day and I didn't want to try my luck climbing up on it to measure it.

I will when I get the deposit.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

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