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What tree is this?

Started by ray299, December 02, 2016, 01:33:16 PM

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ray299

It's got a pine like bark, no sap, not really any smell to it but looks like a dark maple grain... anyone know what it is? Just for ha has I sent the board on the right through the planer.... they werr milled only a couple days ago.



Black_Bear

Looks like black cherry (Prunus serotina).

catalina

without any doubt Black Cherry.

dchiapin


The Axe Man


Ron Scott

~Ron

Canadiana

Sounds conclusive. What are the signs/features that you see? Good pic
The saw is more fun than the purpose of the wood... the forest is trembling 🌳

ray299

Nice, thanks all- I didn't even know we had a black cherry tree in the yard... I'll have to pay attention to the smaller one I left.. this one was only cut down because the top was damaged and it started rotting.

WDH

The scaly bark is diagnostic.  Also, the light colored sapwood and the pink heartwood.  Turns red when exposed to sunlight. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Ox

Seal the ends of your logs/boards.  Black cherry likes to check, especially through the heart/pith.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

ray299

Quote from: Ox on December 05, 2016, 11:35:30 AM
Seal the ends of your logs/boards.  Black cherry likes to check, especially through the heart/pith.
Even after its milled? Or seal the ends as is sits in log form? Also, what's a good way to seal it in regards to the most economical way? I don't want to spend $100 on a bucket of sealer for boards I'm just going to air dry and make small projects out of type of thing... or should I put that in a separate thread?

Ianab

For one log, you can melt some paraffin wax and paint that on. Not as convenient as the liquid wax emulsion wood sealers, but it will do the job.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

ray299

Quote from: Ianab on December 05, 2016, 06:56:36 PM
For one log, you can melt some paraffin wax and paint that on. Not as convenient as the liquid wax emulsion wood sealers, but it will do the job.
And if I have a dozen logs is there a better option? Tia

WDH

For a dozen, that is 24 ends to seal.  With that amount, you should consider buying a gallon of anchorseal. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Ox

Easier to seal the log ends first.
I've used old paint with good results, as have many.
It's important to seal the ends of the wood grains so they don't act like little straws siphoning moisture too fast out the end of the log/board.  Use your imagination as to what would work.   :)
Waxy emulsion seals.  So does most paints.  Most paints aren't "breathable".
I just know when I paint wood and it gets wet, it beads up and doesn't let water through to the wood.  Works the same on the ends, too.
The last batch of black cherry I milled I used old spray paint on the ends.  Just one heavy coat.  Very minimal checking, if any at all.  1 1/2 years ago.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

ray299

Quote from: Ox on December 06, 2016, 01:13:13 PM
Easier to seal the log ends first.
I've used old paint with good results, as have many.
It's important to seal the ends of the wood grains so they don't act like little straws siphoning moisture too fast out the end of the log/board.  Use your imagination as to what would work.   :)
Waxy emulsion seals.  So does most paints.  Most paints aren't "breathable".
I just know when I paint wood and it gets wet, it beads up and doesn't let water through to the wood.  Works the same on the ends, too.
The last batch of black cherry I milled I used old spray paint on the ends.  Just one heavy coat.  Very minimal checking, if any at all.  1 1/2 years ago.
Worth a try... I've had logs mainly ash 20-30 ft long sitting dry. I've cut sections as needed and sacrifices to first 18-20 inches but my fresh oak Im dropping is to heavy to move in such long lengths. I got plenty of old paint. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

Ox

With paint, make sure you slice a little thin cookie off the end of the log so your blade doesn't have the chance to drag paint through your nice new lumber.  ;)  This is another reason to cut the log at least 6" longer than the boards you want out of it.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

WDH

Compared to anchorseal, paint is a mediocre end sealer.  Think about the time you spend end sealing.  If you spend a lot of time like I do end sealing, you want the best result for your time and money.  If you are only doing a few logs here and there, and if you double coat, you might do OK with paint.  Maybe I used inferior paint when I first started out using paint  :).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Ox

I've used old spray paint mostly.  I wonder if this has anything to do with my good results?  I can spray thick and watch it suck right up into the wood like a wick.  I don't remember it doing that with the paint on latex/acrylic stuff.  I wonder if this is something that makes a world of difference?

I remember hearing about roofing tar thinned with some kerosene or something similar.  I bet that would seal great, but I sure wouldn't want the mess associated with it.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

WDH

I have used the aluminum roofing paint called Kool-Seal from Lowes.  Makes an awful mess.  If you get it on your clothes or shoes, you wear it for life. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

nativewolf

Also Cherry has a distinctive smell to the bark, just taste/smell the inside bark a bit.  Once you learn that you'll never mistake -it is an organic cyanide sort.  Bark also has little white oval dots all over it.  Helps to tell a young sherry from a persimmon. 
Liking Walnut

plantman

Not sure if this works but I've heard that soaking the wood down with RV antifreeze containing propylene glycol helps to control checking and it also works to kill mold and fungus. I still haven't tried it for myself but plan to .

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