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Cleaning wood before finishing

Started by addysdaddy, December 01, 2016, 02:09:15 PM

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addysdaddy

Gents. I'm about to start finishing some live edge birch slabs for bench seats for the table at the hunting camp. Im planning to use either Teak or Tongue oil. Whats the best way/stuff to clean away the sanding dust etc prior to oiling and does anyone have an oiling for dummies cheat sheet. I've swabbed on varathane with a brush but am new to oil finishes. Any advice appreciated.
Trying to think of something Cool to say kinda defeats the purpose.
LT10
Kioti with winch.
Husqvarna fan

Bruno of NH

Clean wood works good if you can find it and can stand the smell
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

robmelby

 You can use a tack cloth to clean the sawdust off prior to oiling. Some people use a air compressor and blow the wood clean. I'm no expert on oiling. Put on as many coats of tung oil as needed to achieve the finish you want. I like to rub it with steel wool in between coats after it's dry. Good luck!

WDH

A little bit of sanding dust does not hurt if you are using tung oil.  You flood the piece with the oil, let it sit and soak in per directions, then simply wipe if ALL off with a soft rag or shop towel.  The oil soaks into and penetrates the wood.  The sanding dust just stays on top and is removed when you wipe off ALL the oil. 

The key is to wipe off ALL the oil.  You can let the oil sit on the wood for the amount of time per the directions, the rub the wood vigorously with the steel wool.  The steel wool will produce some fine dust that is in a slurry with the oil, and the slurry really seals up all the pores in the wood giving you a glass smooth surface.  Do not use steel wool on oak, though, as the tannins in the oak react with the steel wool and it will turn the wood black.  You have to use fine sandpaper to create the oil and dust slurry in oak.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Bruno of NH

Rags and shop towels soaked in oil can start a fire .
I burn mine in an old paint can or put them in water in an old paint can.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Just Me

My rule with oil is simple. Got it from my dad who made custom rifles.

Once a day for a week
Once a week for a month
Once a year for the rest of your life.

Reminds me, I need to put another coat on my speakers...........

addysdaddy

 :) thanx guys. sounds easy enough even for me  ::).
Trying to think of something Cool to say kinda defeats the purpose.
LT10
Kioti with winch.
Husqvarna fan

Brad_bb

Fresh wood with just sanding dust?  Then just blow it off with compressed air.  Sometimes I like to put a coat of clear shellac before the finish.  Helps start to close up some of the grain so it takes less finish product to coat.

Depending on how you finished the live edge... If you removed all the bark, then finish the same as the rest.  If you left some bark paper, then a coat of clear shellac will help glue it down and seal it.  If you left all the bark, then you have to decide what you want.  I've seen some people use water viscosity epoxy which will harden and seal the bark and keep it from detaching from the board.  It may leave a shinier surface.  You'd have to experiment with your finish product to see if it will cut the gloss... if you're planning to use a satin finish...

I often draw knife the bark and leave the paper on Walnut or cherry, then clear shellac it before topcoat.

As for oil rags, I have spread them outside where they would do no harm if combustion.  For Boiled Linseed Oil, I put my rag in a quart cup with a lid.  I'm assuming this deprives it enough of oxygen that it won't chemically combust.  I should probably user a metal can though.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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