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Author Topic: LED Lights on a Sawmill  (Read 4252 times)

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Offline GrahamW

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #20 on: November 21, 2016, 02:33:20 pm »
I have rechargeable LED lights that work for3 hours on one charge similar to http://www.screwfix.com/p/ae0295-rechargeable-led-work-light-23w-12-240v/7042k  Plenty of mounting options.

Regards

Graham

Offline GDinMaine

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #21 on: November 21, 2016, 03:44:36 pm »
Hey GD
DO you know what the model and make that alternator o nthe engine is? It is probable that it is disabled and may have a the voltage regulator disabled. I am doing some checking right now.

BB,
If memory serves it is made by Denso, but I will have to look at the numbers on it when I get home.
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Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #22 on: November 21, 2016, 04:19:44 pm »
Hi GD

This is a real shot in the dark but I have a hunch this should be real close and the price is pretty good too.

http://www.fleetalternatorstarter.com/alternator_10359.aspx
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #23 on: November 21, 2016, 07:10:09 pm »
For anyone with the spare alternator, you can simply tap into the existing ignition (IG or however it is labelled) wire on the 150A alternator and connect it to the appropriate terminal on the 40A alternator. Add + and - wires to the other alternator and you're good to go. I tested this on an LT40 Super and got the rated amperages from each. Once the voltage sags enough, both just go full field, so at lesser loads it is possible that I'm full fielding the smaller alternator more often. But worst comes to worst is it burns up and works good as an idler pulley again.

And I would wire the lights directly off the alternator. The battery is meant to store energy and intermittently supply peak loads (i.e. the hydraulics) while the alternator is meant to supply power to the average loads (lights, feed, recharging the battery, etc). Running wires from the battery just makes the actual electrical path longer, especially since the alternator moves up and down with the lights.

I would not think you could tie two alternators together. Putting out AC
how would you keep them in sync ? The cycles would fight each other.
I know it's very important in power plants when starting up two alternating
gen-sets that they are in sync before they are connected or very bad things
will happen.

Good catch Kbeitz, but I was not trying to tie them into the same system.
 I just thought I would run nothing but the lights off the small alternator so I would not tax the big one any more than necessary.  I any case. I checked the output on it and to my disappointment it does not seem to function. It only produces 0.6 volt for some reason. I don't know why Wood-Mizer left it on the engine. I wonder if they disabled it in some way?

Some alternators need power in before you can get power out...
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Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #24 on: November 21, 2016, 08:31:59 pm »

Some alternators need power in before you can get power out...
[/quote]

A toggle switch can serve this purpose OR you can wire it back to the ignition so ignition excites the field when you flip the switch/key.
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4.
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2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built my self

Offline GDinMaine

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #25 on: November 22, 2016, 08:25:10 am »
BB,
I did find the right alternator on that site for the Kubota engine (V1505) on my mill http://www.fleetalternatorstarter.com/alternator_10285.aspx.aspx. It only costs $70 but this is getting to be more expensive than I was originally hoping to spend. I would need at least three lights about $40 each plus other miscellaneous switches and whatnot. Getting the existing alternator to work would be my first choice.

How do I attempt to do that? 
The only problem is that I am dumber than a bag of hammers when it comes to electricity. I understand anything mechanical, but the tiny little electrons have me on the ropes.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #26 on: November 22, 2016, 01:04:43 pm »
With out using a battery you might be getting brite lights to very dim lights
running off only the  alternator
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Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #27 on: November 25, 2016, 07:16:45 pm »
GD
Just guess here but I am going to suggest checking the rectifier bridge to see it is is in fact connected AND if it is then Check to see if there are diodes in it. As a rule a disabled external alternator will have that piece "missing". Some times the voltage regulator will be disabled.   
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4.
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built my self

Offline Bluejay27

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #28 on: November 26, 2016, 01:03:25 pm »
GD
Just guess here but I am going to suggest checking the rectifier bridge to see it is is in fact connected AND if it is then Check to see if there are diodes in it. As a rule a disabled external alternator will have that piece "missing". Some times the voltage regulator will be disabled.   

Seeing as Wood-Mizer just leaves the alternator there as an idler, they have no reason to actively disable it. But you do need to run switched power to the correct spade terminal on the alternator. Just Google whatever pins are labeled on the alternator (B, IG, L, etc.). And as far as switched power goes, your primary alternator already has this wire, tap into it.

Also, there is no real issue with connecting the two alternators. A DC power system has no phase and so the two alternators cannot be out of phase or damage each other in the way AC generators can. In that case, the lagging generator is pulled along be the other generator, meaning it has to do all the work plus haul it's buddy around.
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #29 on: November 26, 2016, 04:49:47 pm »
GD
Just guess here but I am going to suggest checking the rectifier bridge to see it is is in fact connected AND if it is then Check to see if there are diodes in it. As a rule a disabled external alternator will have that piece "missing". Some times the voltage regulator will be disabled.   

Seeing as Wood-Mizer just leaves the alternator there as an idler, they have no reason to actively disable it. But you do need to run switched power to the correct spade terminal on the alternator. Just Google whatever pins are labeled on the alternator (B, IG, L, etc.). And as far as switched power goes, your primary alternator already has this wire, tap into it.

Also, there is no real issue with connecting the two alternators. A DC power system has no phase and so the two alternators cannot be out of phase or damage each other in the way AC generators can. In that case, the lagging generator is pulled along be the other generator, meaning it has to do all the work plus haul it's buddy around.

Alternators is a 3 phase unit not DC.
1960s, automobiles used DC.
A diode bridge makes the alternators DC.
I would see less problems if the two was tied together
after the DC conversion.

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Offline GDinMaine

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #30 on: November 26, 2016, 05:27:11 pm »
Thank you for the additional advice.  I will not tie the small alternator into the system, unless I have a professional do it. As I said I am pretty much useless when it comes to electricity. I will try to research how to get the existing unit to produce juice.

Just as a test I connected a volt-meter to the alternator on my tractor. It starts to produce over 13 volts at  1100-1200 rpm. If I am not mistaken the engine on my mill runs faster than that at low idle. So. If I manage to get small alternator to work, I should have high enough voltage to run the lights nice and bright. At this point I doubt I will find time to fiddle with this before January.
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Offline Magicman

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #31 on: November 26, 2016, 09:46:04 pm »
The sawmill engine idle should be set at ~1500 rpm so that the alternator will supply full voltage when the clutch is disengaged. 
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Offline kenbees

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #32 on: November 26, 2016, 10:15:21 pm »
so funny   I have a LT40 supper as well and just the other day  was talking about  hooking up lights to the Kubota Alternator ( witch is not  being used).  So  keep me in the loop..   I'm  in Maine as well small world
Lets make some saw dust

Offline Bluejay27

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #33 on: November 26, 2016, 11:35:14 pm »
Alternators is a 3 phase unit not DC.
1960s, automobiles used DC.
A diode bridge makes the alternators DC.
I would see less problems if the two was tied together
after the DC conversion.

The DC conversion occurs between the alternator windings and the positive post on the alternator, making that post a DC voltage source. You'd have to actively bypass the rectifier bridge to get AC voltage out of an alternator. As far as anyone unfamiliar with electrical systems is concerned, a 12v alternator like the ones present on a Wood-Mizer sawmill is a DC voltage source. Any talk of AC systems is fairly meaningless as there will always be a rectifier bridge converting the three induced AC voltages into a single DC voltage source. And if you connect the positive posts of two alternators, you are connecting them "after the DC conversion".
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Offline Ianab

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #34 on: November 27, 2016, 04:06:39 am »
And, remember that we are talking LED lamps. The draw from a handful of LED floods will only be a couple of Amps. In the overall scheme of things, when you have a 100A alternator already, it's only a drop in the bucket.

If the existing system is so near the edge that it can't handle 2 or 3 more amps, then you have bigger problems
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #35 on: November 27, 2016, 12:39:19 pm »
Running LED lights or any other lights WITHOUT a battery of some type in the circuit is recipe for early failure of the Lamps. The battery stabilizes the available voltage adn amperage within an acceptable and narrow range that give lamps a much more efficient operating voltage and temp.

I would just connect the engine alternator into the the mills electrical system and run with it. That is essentially what I have running on my mill with my little slave generator for the last 3 years and it has given NO problems of any kind.         
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
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Offline fishfighter

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #36 on: November 27, 2016, 01:47:17 pm »
Some good LED spot lights that I used to get were boat deck lights. Them suckers would light up the back deck like day light and only drew around 3 amps per hour that were 12volt.

These are the people I was getting them from. Good people.

http://www.coastalnightlights.com/

Offline MartyParsons

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #37 on: December 06, 2016, 08:52:24 pm »
We are servicing this mill. Customer added some LED lights.

 

 

I thought this was some kind of decoration. Then I turned on the ignition switch.

 

 

Almost need sunglasses in the shop.

Other locations.

 

 

Marty
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Offline barbender

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #38 on: December 07, 2016, 02:38:11 pm »
That is slick Marty! That guy is thinking outside the box ;)
Too many irons in the fire

Offline OlJarhead

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Re: LED Lights on a Sawmill
« Reply #39 on: December 07, 2016, 02:55:05 pm »
Those look great!
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