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Blade suggestions

Started by larrydown60, November 06, 2016, 04:29:42 AM

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larrydown60

Hello I am getting ready to Order my saw mill blades,and I am here to ask for suggestions on what to order for blades. I am new to sawing and I have built my own mill. So I need all the help I can get picking a good blade to use. I have a few big Locust logs and Pine logs and maple logs Please help Thanks

WV Sawmiller

LD60,

   Not sure of the details about your mill but with mine I'd definitely want 4 degree blades for the locust especially if it is somewhat or completely seasoned. Maybe the same with the maple. I can usually get by with 10 degree blades for the pine but if there is a lot of knots I drop back to 4 degree for it too. I have some 7 degree and 7 degree turbo blades but get little use out of them. Others use them exclusively so I need to go back and give them a better test run.

   Order a mix and try them all and draw your own conclusions. Don't let one log determine your choices though. Be sure the performance is based on the blade not one freak log properties. Good luck.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

bandmiller2

Larry, all the major band brands are good its just some mills work better with a particular band. I agree with less hook on bands, I like in the 4 to 6 degree range. Many manufacturers only offer 10 degree, nothing wrong with that try em. If your not going to sharpen your own best to get bands that they will sharpen, some will only sharpen what they sell. When I started I called many band vendors, explained what I was doing and ordered a couple of their bands to try, several sent me bands free to try. You will find your mill will like one brand and type of band best. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

fishfighter

As others said, try different bands. Over a short time you will know what works best on your mill.

dgdrls

LD60,

Congratulation on your build,   ;)     https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,90460.0.html

As others have pointed out you'll find which (manufacturer) you like best and provides the service you want/need, Shop on the left of the page
You'll have to consider how much H.P. you're pulling, what your sawing, hard or soft and how wide you want saw and band wheel diameter

:P Good reading on hook angle, set and tooth pitch here.
http://www.cookssaw.com/index.php/sawmill-blade-insight

These folks have a pretty good guide as well
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing.html

this one too
http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2513/NREM-5046web.pdf

D

Kbeitz

Most homemade mil owners that ask the same question got the answer to use 4 deg blades.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Chuck White

Quote from: larrydown60 on November 06, 2016, 04:29:42 AM
Hello I am getting ready to Order my saw mill blades,and I am here to ask for suggestions on what to order for blades. I am new to sawing and I have built my own mill. So I need all the help I can get picking a good blade to use. I have a few big Locust logs and Pine logs and maple logs Please help Thanks

Over the last 2 days, I was sawing Black Locust logs to give the customer a bunch of 4X4X10's.

The 4x4's will be used to fence in a new apple orchard/back yard, against deer!

We sawed out 80 4x4's, 5 of them were 12', the rest were 10's.

We sawed 2 "short" days, each with one Wood-Mizer Double-Hard 10° blade that I had resharpened to 8°.

These were fresh cut Locust logs, as we know, it does make a difference!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

larrydown60

Ok. I hope I came up with the right blade size of 186" I have 19" band wheels with center to center measurement of of the pulley shafts of 63" If anyone can double check my figures and make sure they are right I would greatly appreciate it, and thank you everyone for you Ideas on the blades looks like I will get a few 4 degree and a few 7 degree blades thanks a gain for your help

ChugiakTinkerer

Using an abbreviated version of pi, I get 185.9 inches.  Good luck with the first blade!

Using Google calculator I get 185.690260418.  You have enough room to adjust .3 inches I take it?
Woodland Mills HM130

larrydown60

Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on November 06, 2016, 09:28:50 PM
Using an abbreviated version of pi, I get 185.9 inches.  Good luck with the first blade!

Using Google calculator I get 185.690260418.  You have enough room to adjust .3 inches I take it?
I think I have a few inches of adjustment on my tensioner box here is pic of my tensioner

  

 

Kbeitz

Just run a tape measure around the whole thing.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Cutting Edge

Quote from: larrydown60 on November 06, 2016, 04:29:42 AM
... I have built my own mill.

Larry,

Have you purchased your sheave for your driven side yet??

The reason for asking is...  Proper blade speed (sfpm or surface feet per/min) is critical.  This needs to be matched as closely as possible to your hp/torque output of your motor.  To fast and it will lug the motor down and decrease the chance of having a good working and manageable torque curve while the blade is cutting.  In turn, this will make milling a less than pleasurable experience.

If you plan on cutting this winter, you are going to be working with frozen logs.  With that said...  A 4 deg. blade is the only way to go.  IMO and experience, it would be your best choice regardless. 

Hope this helps ya out



"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

bandmiller2

When designing a mill its best to start with a commonly used band length, like for instance a WM-40,  and build the mill around it. Also helpful if you have a wide range of adjustment. I would take ole Kbietz advice and stretch a tape around it, just to be sure. Company's that sell bands don't take you quite as seriously if you want an odd length band for a home made mill. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

pineywoods

  x2 on what bandmiller said. If you have to go with a custom length, keep in mind that the number of teeth on the band needs to be a multiple of 3 (left set. right set, and raker). Otherwise setting the teeth can get a bit confusing, especially with an automatic setter. Wherever you purchase blades, keep in mind that a blade normally will need sharpening and setting after just a few logs. Some blade vendors offer a sharpening service, some don't. As to which blades I am about as biased as can be. Woodmizer doublehard 1 1/4 by 7/8 tooth spacing, 10 degree rake 25 thou set. Probably not the absolute best in some cases, but good enough for everything.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

larrydown60

Thanks for all the info on the blades. I talked with the people at Cooks We decided to try a couple of their Xcel black blades with 10 degree hook to start with they said that blade would work good on my mill being low on HP and cut all types of wood. It will be good to start with a cheaper blade while I get things adjusted and aligned up. Thanks for all the help again
Larry

bkaimwood

For blade length, measure hub center to hub center...multiply by 2...then add wheel circumference of one wheel...which is diameter x's 3.14...
bk

Kbeitz

Quote from: larrydown60 on November 11, 2016, 07:38:05 PM
Thanks for all the info on the blades. I talked with the people at Cooks We decided to try a couple of their Xcel black blades with 10 degree hook to start with they said that blade would work good on my mill being low on HP and cut all types of wood. It will be good to start with a cheaper blade while I get things adjusted and aligned up. Thanks for all the help again
Larry

That's a conflict from all that I was told. Lower HP should be lower hook angle.
I was told 4 degree hook is best for low HP.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

larrydown60

Kbeitz, I told them I wanted the 4 degree blade and she told me not to listen to them woodmizer guys and listen to her . Cooks doesn't sell 4 degree blades. So I will try 2 to start with the price is good also. I will give you a review when I get them cutting

Kbeitz

I'm only getting my information form what I'm reading on this forum from
the experience of people with low powered mill that has tried different blades.
I ended up with a load of blades from the junkyard when I first started milling.
They worked great. Then I was ready to buy new blades. I wanted 4 degree blades
and the sales man said that what I really wanted was 7 degree blades. So that's what
I got. I'm not happy with the 7's My junkyard blades did much better but I have no idea
what degree they was. So my next order will be 4 degree blades then I can really say
what works and what does not. I do know that I had to reduce my travel speed by
1/3rd with the 7 degree blades to make them work.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

larrydown60

I am all ears because I have only seen a portable saw mill operate 1-2 times and have never milled anything. I will get some 4 degree blades but to start with I don't want to have to order 15 -20 blades at one time till I make sure my mill cuts good and I can get aligned up.I watch and read a lot on here and trust everything I am told thanks everyone for the help I really do listen.

bandmiller2

If a fella sharpens his own bands he can try whatever hook he wants. To check hook you need a good protractor head. It helps if you have a white background and leave a slight gap between the protractor rule and the tooth face. From what I was told 10 degree help the feed on manual mill where you have to push the saw head through the log. My grinder is set for about 5 or 6 degrees, I say about because as the grinding wheel wears you get a little less hook. Really I don't think a degree or two is important as long as the tooth is sharp and set right. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

dgdrls

Quote from: larrydown60 on November 12, 2016, 07:42:28 PM
I am all ears because I have only seen a portable saw mill operate 1-2 times and have never milled anything. I will get some 4 degree blades but to start with I don't want to have to order 15 -20 blades at one time till I make sure my mill cuts good and I can get aligned up.I watch and read a lot on here and trust everything I am told thanks everyone for the help I really do listen.

Lots of good discussion here,  remember hook is only part of the equation for good performance with a band blade.
you have to consider set and pitch as well.  Pitch I believe is pretty easy 7/8 is standard.  Set is material dependent, softer wood
needs a little more set than the harder stuff. 

I believe Cooks is pointing you in the right direction to start.  You could make an argument for the 8 Deg bands as you indicated in your original post
you have Maple & Locust  however, I think what you will find is what works well for the harder logs, will not cut well or as well in the pine, 

That's not to say you cant find a balance to work on both hard and soft species as long as you don't stray too far outside the boundaries of your log size

I'll add this, debark your logs if you can before you begin,  your blades will thank you with longer run times ;)


Quote from: Kbeitz on November 12, 2016, 01:41:22 AM
Quote from: larrydown60 on November 11, 2016, 07:38:05 PM
Thanks for all the info on the blades. I talked with the people at Cooks We decided to try a couple of their Xcel black blades with 10 degree hook to start with they said that blade would work good on my mill being low on HP and cut all types of wood. It will be good to start with a cheaper blade while I get things adjusted and aligned up. Thanks for all the help again
Larry

That's a conflict from all that I was told. Lower HP should be lower hook angle.
I was told 4 degree hook is best for low HP.

I don't believe that to be correct  When I had my Woodmizer LT 10 (10hp) I couldn't get 4 deg bands from WM and as I recall I had to really dig to even find 7's, 10's and 9's were readily available and recommended by WM.  Their (WM's) position was the 10hp would not pull the 4's efficiently and it would saw poorly.  This makes sense in the fact that 4's are a more aggressive (vertical) tooth than a 10 or 12 deg tooth.

D




jaygtree

i have a 13hp mill and it works well with 10*  3/4 pitch and 8* 7/8 pitch bands. those are the only ones i've tried. i cut about 800 feet of popple with an 8* and it still didn't seem too dull. i do brush off the logs well b4 i saw them.  jg
i thought i was wrong once but i wasn't.   atv, log arch, chainsaw and ez boardwalk jr.

Kbeitz

Quote from: bandmiller2 on November 12, 2016, 08:02:41 PM
If a fella sharpens his own bands he can try whatever hook he wants. To check hook you need a good protractor head. It helps if you have a white background and leave a slight gap between the protractor rule and the tooth face. From what I was told 10 degree help the feed on manual mill where you have to push the saw head through the log. My grinder is set for about 5 or 6 degrees, I say about because as the grinding wheel wears you get a little less hook. Really I don't think a degree or two is important as long as the tooth is sharp and set right. Frank C.

Being that I sharpen my blades with a dremel my hook angle is a curve
and I would not know how to check it with a protractor. I think you need
somewhat of a flat edge to align the protractor up to.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Bruno of NH

As I stated before 10's don't cut well for me on my 13 hp mill with any wood with knots.
I use 8's 9's mostly 7's and 4's for the real hard stuff .
Bruno
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

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