Sawing an oversized log - lessons learned

[Sixacresand]

I'm getting ready to put my mill next to a big oak log.  Without lifting support equipment, a big log has to be straight, no protruding knots and the mill loading arms must be able to pick it up.  I will use the hydraulic clamp to pull/parbuckle the log up on the loading arms.  If it will not pick it up, I will have shorten the log to reduce the weight.  Big logs require extra effort.  I should save all the big logs and rent an fork lift for that day.   

[sandsawmill14]

i use regular stihl chain on both the 24" and the 28" bars  if a log is 40" or less and doesnt have many knots i can saw down 1 side with the saw at 90* so i am getting full cut of the bar then cut all the way through the log on each end and it will split pretty easy with wedges i cut out of 4x6 about 12" long  if you cut all the way through on both ends and down the top there's not alot of wood left on a 40" log   gum can be an exception i guess its the spiral grain i always have a loader at this mill but when i am at one of the other 2 i dont have so i have to use the wedges

andries i split them the same as one with the heart centered right down the middle with no regard for the heart

SS14,

   This log was about 16'6" long, I sawed 90 degrees the full length with the 24" bar, I had sawed completely through on each end for the full 24" bar length and we fabbed and used some wooden wedges about 4" thick and they still would not completely separate the log. That remaining 12'6" with 12-14 inches of holding wood would not let it turn loose without cutting from the opposite side.

a 16' log would be really hard to split without the loaders  sawing both side would certainly be in order on that one

This thread is a pretty good advertisement for a swing mill.

but we will save alot of time and work when the logs get back under 30"

[Magicman]

I'm getting ready to put my mill next to a big oak log.  If it will not pick it up, I will have shorten the log to reduce the weight.

 
I also use the log clamp to help snuggle a big log toward the sawmill when loading.


 
Once it gets this far along the loader easily tips it over and onto the sawmill bed. 

[WV Sawmiller]

Lynn,

   I still have to try using the clamp to pull the log. I need to get a good nylon strap or big nylon rope as I don't want to use a chain on my polished clamp.

   You show a big round log. I'm not having problems with them as my hydraulics probably work better with them than a small one but imagine that same log or slightly bigger cut in half down the middle. The flat side down on a big half round log was the cause of my problems.

[Gearbox]

The circle mill that I run will reach 22 inch 50 inch saw . I learned that if a log is going to square at over 22 I start by burying the blade then turn 1/8 turn and make edger boards till I bury the blade . Now you have one flat side down keep making edger boards and turning until you can square off . I have sawed 48 inch white pine this way . Puts on quite a show and makes the Avery steamer strain .

[Sixacresand]

Lynn, Thanks for posting  those photos.  Its just like I did it this morning.

[WV Sawmiller]

Gearbox,

   When I saw a max diameter log for my mill (32") I shave off a thin slab and a narrow flitch or two till I reach a 23" width then turn the log 90 degrees and repeat again and again until I whittle the log down to 23" or less then I saw finished boards. I have not had to saw octagonal cuts yet but might have to in the future based on the log shape (I.e. How oval vs round is it, etc.).

    With my big split log once we were able to stand it up vertical it was about 22-24 inches wide at the center and 32-36 inches tall. If too tall to pass the blade through I could cut off one thin slice with the chainsaw. After that sawing through and through was easy.

[ncsawyer]

  Any more I ask what type of equipment they have ,and make it clear that there is an upcharge for oversize !

I don't care how valuable a customer's log is, its not worth tearing up my mill!  I have cut some monsters on my old LT-40 manual and have also cut some 36+ inch ones on my new hydraulic mill.  The largest on my old manual mill was an 18ft 36+ inch pine.  The customer's 416 cat backhoe would hardly pick it up.

Now when I cut logs larger than about 33 inches I automatically charge my hourly rate.  Those big ones can eat up some time!  If one needs to be split....that is up to the customer.  I just saw em!

[paul case]

The circle mill that I run will reach 22 inch 50 inch saw . I learned that if a log is going to square at over 22 I start by burying the blade then turn 1/8 turn and make edger boards till I bury the blade . Now you have one flat side down keep making edger boards and turning until you can square off . I have sawed 48 inch white pine this way . Puts on quite a show and makes the Avery steamer strain .

This method is more commonly known as''bibbying down a log''.

PC

[Carson-saws]

Fun stuff...there are, in my opinion, 3 different ways to deal with over sized logs.  The first is what most do...saw it in half with a chainsaw...argh...the second way...depending where you live and how often you may deal with it is....exploding wedges...but those in some places require not only a permit to use them but to purchase them as well....the third ways is....running a chainsaw down the middle ABOUT a third deep into the log...than pack some sawdust into that cut...than pack gun powder into that cut...than packing again with sawdust making sure to include a "fuse"...than...light the fuse...and run away....

[Chop Shop]

I love big logs.  I have a 3 footer on the mill right now!

[WV Sawmiller]

I love big logs.  I have a 3 footer on the mill right now!

Chop Shop,

   Can you update your profile to show us your equipment used and such? Is a 3' log within your mills normal sawing limits or is it oversized? If outside the design specs what tricks do you use to compensate?

   I love sawing large logs too but I define a large log as a good straight log not over 32" at the big end with no protruding knots or such because that is the upper end of my mills design specs.

[paul case]

I too have a unique way to deal with logs that are too large for my mill to handle well.

!. sell the log to another mill. This works great if you have a way to load them(6k forklift for me).

2. let them sit till they are almost no good anyway and then try to give them away for firewood.

3. Dont ever allow them on your gate.

4. Make your gate out of them.

Not all of these methods will work well in your area. consult your local forester ;D

On a more serious note, I have ripped a few with a chainsaw. A longer bar(36'') and learning a few tricks will help. The length of the saw bar needs to drag through the log at an angle of more than 90 degrees. That way the bar itself helps keep the cut straight. I have been able to cut several 36''+ logs this way and waste less than 2'' of wood.

From a production standpoint, it makes no sense to buy and deal with logs bigger than your mill can make good time cutting. My $.02 worth.

PC

[woodweasel]

I've done several that are bigger than my saw will cut. I cut by the hr. and explain to the customer this will be a lengthy ordeal. If they want it done I will do it if I have the time and need the money. I under sell it, explaining I don't think its feasible. If they still want it Ill do it. If I don't have the time, or don't feel like working that hard I simply say its to big.  ;D

  

 

[WV Sawmiller]

WW,

   If the log you show on the mill will allow the blade to pass over and trim it down until you can freely run the blade through the cant I consider it large but not oversized. The one I see you cutting with the chain saw looks like what I consider oversized.

   Do you have any special tricks to cut them or lessons learned other than to charge by the hour because of the extra time expected and required to cut it?

    So far one of the most likely changes I will incorporate into my sawing bag of tricks is use of the hook on a chain used with the clamp like MM shows. I'm thinking I could even partially parbuckle a split log using that technique along with some chocks should my log land flat side down again.

[Magicman]

 

 
I have had to use the log clamp, chain, and end tong to turn a few logs.  Be sure to raise the loader arms completely up because this method turns the log "backwards".


 
This much too big Pecan log was over 50" before being Bibbyed down to sawmill size.  :-\

[Chop Shop]

I love big logs.  I have a 3 footer on the mill right now!

Chop Shop,

   Can you update your profile to show us your equipment used and such? Is a 3' log within your mills normal sawing limits or is it oversized? If outside the design specs what tricks do you use to compensate?

   I love sawing large logs too but I define a large log as a good straight log not over 32" at the big end with no protruding knots or such because that is the upper end of my mills design specs.

I saw with a Mobile Dimension and a Lucasmill.

I can saw up to 5 diameter without issues.   I mill mostly WRC and Doug Fir.  Most of the fir is nice minimum taper and the cedar sometimes have pretty tapered butts.   But 2-4' is pretty common at my place.

I have a pile of 24 footers that are all about 3' diameter to saw next week.

I load/move with a bigger backhoe and a full size prentice loader, not a self loader.

[WDH]

I just say NO.  Won't do it. 

[MbfVA]

Swing blade mill to the rescue!  Ianab posted a photo yesterday of Lucas demoing their mill on top of a larger log that any shown in this thread.  Unique leveling stands used to be sure but swing blades are made for big stuff.