They messed it all up.....Help!

Avalancher · November 22, 2004, 10:05:04 AM

I took my saw in last week, a Husky 372 for some minor problems with the low speed jet. It wouldnt idle, just run at full throttle. I went to run it this weekend, and it has none of its old power. It doesnt want to clean out on the top end, and if you let it idle for over 30 seconds it will die as soon as you give it some gas.It starts right up, but is slow to accelerate.
I took it back this morning and the mechanic said that you shouldnt just "floor it" but gradually give it some gas. I pointed out that it did just fine before he tinkered with it, and it cleaned out just fine at high speed. He said that my saw had been running too lean, but was now right on.
I dont have a tach, but I firmly believe that the low speed is too rich, causing it to load up at idle, and that maybe the high speed is as well. What is the best thing for me to do now? I hate to tinker with it without a tach. Anyone got any ideas? :'(

Lucky · November 22, 2004, 11:10:42 AM

Hi there Avalanche. Working on your own saws can be a daunting task until you have some knowledge and confidence. But doing your own wrenching isn't really that difficult, it just takes some learning. I recommend playing with the adjustments yourself until you get it right. You'll learn a lot and won't be dependent on the shops to tune your saw. Here's a link that explains all you'll need to know. Good luck. John
http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

Kevin · November 22, 2004, 11:31:40 AM

Get a tach, they are well worth the money.
Did you notice if the air filter was cleaned prior to him tuning it.

Avalancher · November 22, 2004, 03:30:03 PM

Anyone know a good place to get a resonable priced tach? did a google search, nothing turns up.

Kevin · November 22, 2004, 03:43:52 PM

I bought unit A but there might be something cheaper out there.

http://www.madsens1.com/tach.htm

Timberwerks · November 22, 2004, 04:54:30 PM

I bought unit b for under $100.00 from a local Stihl dealer. It really is a great tool to have, all my saws run top notch.

Dale

rebocardo · November 22, 2004, 05:02:12 PM

Avalancher,

Same thing with my saw (went in for an oil pump) and came back running poor with no top end power. From the pictures I posted here people told me what you suspect, it was running too rich. I ended up turning the throttle up more, once I get a tach I will treat the saw like I treat my trucks, noone puts a tool to it except for me.

Avalancher · November 22, 2004, 05:45:01 PM

I feel like such a moron, I realized that my Fluke meter has a tach hookup on it. I attached it to the plug wire and found that the saw is turning a mere 950 rpm at full throttle, I think top end should be around 1300. I will look it up tomorrow on the Husky website before giving it a turn. Is the low speed jet okay to tune by ear, or is it as critical as the high speed as far as a no-no to running it to lean?

Minnesota_boy · November 22, 2004, 05:54:26 PM

I wouldn't hesitate to tune both by ear, but I have a very good ear. The low speed isn't the one that causes a lean seize. With the saw idling, if it will idle, turn in the idle mixture screw to get the highest RPM, then open it a little while jerking the throttle wide open. Don't hold the throttle this way, just make sure it accelerates smoothly without hesitation. Once the saw will idle properly, adjust the high speed mixture. First to the highest RPM, then slightly richer to get the horsepower in the cut. It may not sound like it is tuned the best, but the horsepower is what you want, not the best sound.

Kevin · November 22, 2004, 06:14:47 PM

Make sure the muffler is clean and not plugged with carbon and always make sure the air filter is clean prior to adjusting the mixture.

Avalancher · November 22, 2004, 07:32:36 PM

Thanks for all your help everyone, it gives me some hope on getting this saw straightened out on my own. I think the local shop is more geared to those folks that want to saw a little wood, ever since Hurrican Ivan come through here there are plenty of people that have a saw and are content with any ole saw that will make a noise and maybe a chip or two.
I knew that saw wasnt right 30 seconds after firing it up, regardless of what the local shop boy said.

Timberwerks · November 22, 2004, 08:04:24 PM

Is your tach set up to read a single cylinder 2 stroke? 950 rpm sounds way to far off. Idle should be about 2,500 and top end should be 13,500. It sounds like your tach isn't reading right.

dale

Avalancher · November 23, 2004, 04:27:27 AM

Nope, just forgot a zero. Tach was reading 9500 and after I let it warm a minute or so and did a little cutting on a few logs behind the shop, it warmed up to a mighty 11900. That has been my point, it definetly is missing a great deal of top end, and it makes me furious that the man paid to fix it cant seem to realize it.
Thanks again for everyones help!

tony_marks · November 23, 2004, 05:43:41 AM

man i sympathise totally..so many of these shops are run by somebody who knows what hes doing .. but the work load gets to big forem and jr. takes over some of the work.. that mite work sometimes ,but i suspect [from the results ive had] that dad is primarily,, just trying to keep an lazy son working ,or some such thing..ive finally found a couple o shops out of say 10 that i trust...
for any one in the area i live in,[stanley co nc],i can recommend albemarle lawn products[just behind food line] on n 52 out of albemarle.. also pinkstons dn closer to charlotte seems to do fine work..at least thats my experience..
ps ,i have no affilition with either of these shps .. just trying to put out some good info

Timberwerks · November 23, 2004, 06:02:05 AM

Sounds like you are in good shape now to tune your own saw using a tach and the madsen saw tune link. 11,900 is really on the rich side. I keep my 372 set to about 13,400- 13,500 and it really puts out good power. My low end is set so the saw revs as soon as a pull the throttle. I also mark the screws location with a marker so I can give them a visual check incase they back out.

Dale

Mark M · November 26, 2004, 07:29:01 PM

Forgive my ignorance but can someone tell me the procedure for using the tach? Do you do the adjustments without the bar & chain? I've always did it by ear but recently bought a tach and haven't taken the time to figger it out.

Mark

Avalancher · November 27, 2004, 06:59:57 PM

Okay, got everything dialed in, but now there is a new problem.I found out why the saw shop set the low speed so rich. With the low speed set so that it will accelerate without dying, it idles to high, even with the idle screw backed out all the way. I can richen the low speed up enough to get the idle down so at least the chain stops, but then it wants to die the minute you hit the throttle. Anyone got any ideas now? It puzzles me as to why the saw shop left it this way :-[

Minnesota_boy · November 28, 2004, 07:10:14 AM

Idling that fast with the adjuster backed clear out should signify an air leak somewhere or something blocking the throttle keeping it from coming all the way closed. This could be as simple as a throttle plate misaligned in the carburetor. An air leak could be a bad gasket between the carb and the cylinder or a seal on the crankshaft.

VA-Sawyer · December 03, 2004, 12:53:38 PM

Somebody asked where to get a Tach. I got a pocket tach from DTI ( www.tinytach.com ). It is one of the wireless RF type. You just hold it a few inches away from the plug/plugwire. I've been real happy with it. If you end up talking to Steve, just say the "nut with the portable sawmill sent you" he'll know who it is.

Avalancher - Make sure that the throttle linkage isn't holding the throttle open a little bit. It may be too snug. The other suggestions about aligned throttle plate and air leak are also quite valid.

Kevin · December 03, 2004, 01:33:20 PM

Mark, bar and chain on.
Depends on the numbers but usually no load.

ladylake · December 05, 2004, 04:53:07 AM

I think Minnesota boy is on the right track a air leak, that would explain why it wouldn't isle in the first place. Check the boot between the carb and cylinder and eveything else mentioned. I'd find a different shop, all they did was richen it up to compensate for a air leak. Steve

tony_marks · December 05, 2004, 06:16:42 AM

mark ,first u hook the lead to the plug wire.. then assuming u have the rite tach so u can use it while cutting.. see what the saw wants to rev to after its warmed up..then put it in the wood u plan to be cutting most and watch the tach..adjust by tiny turns and see what makes it stronger in heavy cut.. not just faster no ld reving..i like as much fuel on the low end ,but make sure u saw still cranks when cold,and is still responding fast to throttle..
this aint much , and u can develope u own ways o doing it..
the setting by ear will do about as good ,once u learn what to listen for..oh i forgot.. u already been setting by ear.. good luck..