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Swing Blade Mill Designs

Started by JPAC, October 25, 2016, 11:34:02 PM

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JPAC

Hello

This is my first post ever to this site. I have found a lot of useful tips from all the members.
I have been branching into lumber milling and I would like to build my own swing blade mill. I understand that it might be easier to purchase the mill from a company, but I do not have the funds at the moment to purchase one. I do how ever have the access to steel and welders So I have hoping to make one.

I have an Idea for the track and frame. The issue comes in with the swinging mechanism of the blade itself
Does anyone know of good plans on how to create the mechanism for the blade to swing?

5quarter

welcome JPAC...Several members have built swing mills here. I'm sure they will be along soon. A you looking for a new hobby or are you adding sawmilling to your business?
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

JPAC

A little of both.
I have been working on a farm that makes their own boards and I feel in love with working on a mill and there is a high demand where I live for local cut wood. I also enjoy it for a hobby due to the storm damage that we get and reclaiming the wood from the aftermath.

I think it might stay more of a hobby small business venture that works in parallel with my work as a cartographer.

Have you done a lot of milling?

tnaz

Welcome to the Forestry Forum JPAC, lots of good info here abouts. 

Terry

sawmilljoe

I have done that will not do it or run one  again. For a reason  that you will hit metal and when the blade is horizontal  you can not tell were it will go . I got lucky it missed me and went through  a 2x4 quarter inch walled tube. Build a bandsaw much safer. Just my 2 cents.

JPAC

Sawmilljoe,

Thanks for the tip. I never gave much thought to items being in the log and how the mill would react to it. I was thinking about using one for the sake of making lumber without having to rotate the log. But I certainly don't want to have a blade going through my leg that's for sure

Kbeitz

Quote from: sawmilljoe on October 26, 2016, 06:24:02 PM
I have done that will not do it or run one  again. For a reason  that you will hit metal and when the blade is horizontal  you can not tell were it will go . I got lucky it missed me and went through  a 2x4 quarter inch walled tube. Build a bandsaw much safer. Just my 2 cents.

That must have been a small arbor to sear off just because of a metal strike ?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jeff

I've seen 2 7/16 arbor sheer. Has little to do with the shaft size and everything to do with how the arbor is powered and what you hit.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kbeitz

Quote from: Jeff on October 27, 2016, 12:24:47 PM
I've seen 2 7/16 arbor sheer. Has little to do with the shaft size and everything to do with how the arbor is powered and what you hit.

I think I would want a shear pin somewhere for safety...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jeff

Head rig circle mills do have sheer pins, but catastrophic things can still happen in an instant. Pins sheer, saw spins on the collars and wels itself on, arbor breaks. It can all happen in a millisecond.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

sawmilljoe

Arbor  didn't  shear parts of the blade and metal from a horse shoe went flying.  Like bullets some the size of a playing card . I was running  a 2.5 inch arbor . Found prices of the blade over 150 feet away. I was lucky.

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