Timberjack 208 Eaton Winch

[Ohio Logger]

Hi you all!
The winch on my TJ 208 was slipping both clutch and brake. I suspect I had too much oil in winch gear case. Can someone please look at attached photo and tell me which plug is the right one to fill to.

   There is a plug on the left side above the SN plate. I had filled to that one, but there is another that the picture doesn't show below the SN plate. Which is the correct fill level? 

  This one shows the other plug. Thanks

[Ohio Logger]

Some more questions regarding winch slippage. What will it take to cure the slippage? Will soaking clutch and brake parts in brake cleaner be sufficient or will it require new brake pads or clutch parts? :( :'( Here are photos of said parts.

  

  Next question: Is it possible or necessary to repack the hydraulic cylinder that engages clutch? Here are 2 pictures of both parts of it. If you look closely, you should be able to see that some packing is missing beside the rubber seal. Is that a big deal? Also where would I go for parts to rebuild the cylinder? Thanks so much!

[Ohio Logger]

  Sorry! I forgot to include pics. Here they are!

  

 

[Neilo]

The little square headed plug is the level. Fill through top plug above bronze gear obviously.

Original bands and discs are asbestos. I am not going to tell anyone to mess with them. But some people do clean them by heating them.

The leather back up washer is probably not very important.

Neilo

[Ohio Logger]

Hey! Thanks, Neilo. Will soaking or scrubbing the pad and discs with brake cleaner harm them? Or would it be better to heat them like you said some do? I am not too bothered by the asbestos. But I will take some precautions now that I know. Thanks!

[Neilo]

I don't know if brake cleaner will work. Amazing how oil runs out when a gentle torch is applied to friction material.

The asbestos statement is because even re using asbestos parts that have been removed from their machine is illegal in my jurisdiction.

[BurkettvilleBob]

I don't know if brake cleaner will work. Amazing how oil runs out when a gentle torch is applied to friction material.

The asbestos statement is because even re using asbestos parts that have been removed from their machine is illegal in my jurisdiction.

Is the reuse of asbestos parts illegal because they want to limit peoples exposure to a known carcinogen, or for some other reason?

I've noticed how quick you are to respond with tech specs for these machines, you must have a little experience, eh?

[David-L]

After reading the original post, I think the problem is clutch piston packing cups because the worm gear side oil is to lube that side not anything else.. There is a seal on the gear side and if you overfill and the seal is bad it just dribbles out on a side hill.

[Ohio Logger]

Good Morning! Just fixing to head out to work and thought I would drop a line. On that asbestos thing, it is good to be cautious, but the actual danger from it is fairly low. Unless you are exposed fairly regularly over a long period, then it is concern. Here is what I ended up doing last night. My father-in-law has a steam cleaner, so I took all the parts over there and turned the temp up as far as it would go and power washed them off. Here are some before and after pics.  This is one of the brake band. You can definitely see the effect cleaning had on it.

      This  one is the clutch discs. The water is beading like all get out on the one on top. After cleaning the water didn't bead at all.

  I am planning to use some brake cleaner and scrub them a bit to see if there is still a significant amount of oil in them. That heat idea might be something to do as well. Any comments? As far the source of the oil, I think David L is right on. Either the seal around output shaft is bad or it was never designed for sealing against constant oil pressure against it. It was definitely gear oil and not hydraulic oil that was on them. How hard is it to get to that seal? Is it worth it or not? Thanks again! I will definitely report how it works!

[Ohio Logger]

One more thing! Can anyone tell whether these parts are original? I highly doubt it because all the bolts holding down the winch had never seize on them.  ;) (Thank you whoever that was!) They seem to be in great shape. Thanks!

[Ohio Logger]

I am a little worried about the piston leaking hydraulic oil now. Any thoughts on how to put the piston back together to minimize that. OK, I'm really done now! :laugh: Have a good day!

[Neilo]

The only way to shim the clutch cylinder is with spacers behind the seals, where the leather back up rings are. Piston position is set by the thickness of the friction discs.

Over greasing the right side of winch can also get on linings.

The winch should not have sulphur smelling standard gear oil. It needs a worm gear oil.

[Neilo]

Oh, to get to that seal, you have to take the winch off. Take the frame off with it. Then you have to work from the right side, and take the drum off to get to the seal.

[Ohio Logger]

Well good morning! I put winch back together last night, but didn't have time to test it properly. So this morning i went out and tried it. No good! Like I half expected there is very little change. Even though the ground was wet and the top greasy from rain last night, the clutch couldn't consistently pull the machine backwards, and the brake couldn't cause spin out consistently. So, I'm checking on cost of new disces and pads, but depending on cost, I will try heating them. Does anyone have a good supplier for such items? If so, message me with their number or email. Thanks!

[Puffergas]

Some cylinder info here

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,91890.0.html

[teakwood]

I had the same trouble as you but with my 540A and the deere winch. I was new to the forum and lots of ideas came up here, bake them, wd40, baking powder, brake cleaner, .... But some of the members just told me that the only cure were new ones. Of course i didnt listen and tried everything, after some faulty attempts i just had the brakeband relined and since then it holds perfectly

[furltech]

I tried everything on mine too ,heat, baby powder, calling it names, kicking things .looking up at the sky in anger .sitting in the moss in defeat .got it relined .Good as new now .

[Ohio Logger]

 :D :D :D I like that last post. I am sitting in the moss in defeat! I tried heat and it worked on clutch discs although I warped them in the process so I need new ones anyway. If a person was careful, I think heat would do the trick on the clutch. But I don't think anything will get that oil out of brake lining without ruining it in the process. So here goes about $250. I found a supplier for them. The clutch discs are $30 a piece (need 5) and the brake lining is around $90 I think. Are those prices in the ballpark? They came from Cooley's Equipment near Meadville, PA (close to Erie). That is also where I bought the machine. The owner is a good friend of mine as well, so I have every reason to believe that those are good prices. And in truth, I half expected them to be much more. So long and have a great day!

[Neilo]

They flatten out. Put something flat and heavy on them for a while.

[Ohio Logger]

Good morning! Just wanted to drop a line and let you all know how my project turned out. I used a torch to heat up the clutch discs. Which worked great to get the oil out, but apparently I overheated them and they warped. So then they would drag when winch was disengaged. I also tried heat on the brake band but no joy on that. I just ruined the pad without making it hold. So I ended up putting all new parts in. Bottom Line: I believe heat would work well to remove oil from the clutch discs, just be very careful how much heat, but I don't think anything will get that oil out of the brake pad. So, for what its worth, thats my 2 cents.

[pineywoods]

Getting oil out of clutch disks and brake linings...Place in a metal bucket and cover with kerosene. Heat over your bbq grill OUTSIDE. Need to boil the kero and it may flash and burn.. I didn't tell you this  :