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MS290 Won't Start

Started by Dave W, October 16, 2016, 07:20:09 PM

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Dave W

I have an MS290 that I bought used about 8 years ago.  I use it a couple times a year and it has been a great saw.  I loaned it to a guy who says that it fired right up, cut two logs and died.  He checked gas and even though it wasn't close to empty he added some.  He was unable to restart it.  I have removed and disassembled the carb and it looked perfect.  I have checked the magneto gap and made sure the muffler was clear.  I replaced the plug (gapped at 0.020) and pulled started it in the dark with the plug removed and grounded to the engine and got a good spark.  I know I could still have a variety of fuel problems , but what I can't understand is after spraying in starting fluid with a plug that should be sparking, I get nothing.  No firing at all.  I'm not sure what to try next.  I appreciate any thoughts on this.  Dave

killamplanes

U need 3 things, spark,fuel,compression.check compression could be hole in piston or scored cylinder wall.. my2c
jd440 skidder, western star w/grapple,tk B-20 hyd, electric, stihl660,and 2X661. and other support Equipment, pallet manufacturing line

ladylake

  Pull the muffler off and look at the piston if its rough compression is too low.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Dave W

Pulled muffler and piston is scored.  Not sure how what is "normal" versus "bad" but it looks worse than I'd like.  If this is the issue, is it worth rebuilding, or should I be looking for a new saw?  There are complete cylinder/piston kits on Amazon from HIPA for about $70, but I suspect they are from China.  Any experience with those?  Thanks, Dave

dougand3

Any scoring is bad. Light scoring, saw will still run with reduced power. Moderate-Severe scoring, saw won't even burp.
Never used a 290 top end but have been quite pleased with AM FarmerTec top ends for Husky 55. I got 200 PSI out of one saw with a base gasket delete.
You can get a 390 top end (49mm bore) for that saw. I'd bet your lower end is ok.
I'd sure rebuild it because they sell for high $ used.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

ZeroJunk

Yeah, that FarmerTec 390 kit is the complete motor, crank, bearings, seals, and all. I have rebuilt 4 or 5 for guys in the community and haven't got one back yet. I sawed up one big oak tree with one and they run great.

Just buy another rear bar stud because your chances of getting the one on the saw out without buggering it up are not so good.

And, get you some Hondabond, Yamabond, Dirko, or some king of gas resistant sealer for the crankcase seam.

Dave W

I pulled it apart and the rings on the exhaust side are stuck in their grooves by the scoring.  Looks like no compression was the issue.  Be interesting to know what got in there.  If I go with the 390, do I need the compression release?

ZeroJunk - good call on the rear bar stud.  Holy crap was that thing in there.

Texas-Jim

before you repair it and start cutting remember one thing. It died for a reason, saws really don't just die. Make sure you check make sure theres no air leaks and carb is working right. Be a pain if put new cyl and piston in and scored the new one. Dont ask me how i know this.  :-\
What we do in life echoes through eternity.

Dave W

I've got a lot of pieces on my bench and a decision to make about this saw.  I really appreciate everyone's comments.  This is a really helpful forum, especially for a new guy.  Thanks,  Dave

joe_indi

Quote from: Texas-Jim on October 17, 2016, 06:45:06 PM
before you repair it and start cutting remember one thing. It died for a reason, saws really don't just die. Make sure you check make sure theres no air leaks and carb is working right. Be a pain if put new cyl and piston in and scored the new one. Dont ask me how i know this.  :-\
I agree 100%!
Find the cause for the damage before replacing any parts.
If the saw was running fine till your friend used it after 'topping up the fuel', chances are that he gave the 2stroke oil a miss :-\ .
But, still you need to check. As a safety precaution I would do a first start after repairs with atleast 50% extra oil in the fuel.
Scouring at times might look visibly bad but may be a minor issue which can be  temorarily cured with a bit of emery.
The same goes for the cylinder. Chances are that the low compression is more a result of jammed rings. So if you have patience and a gentle hand you might be able to get the rings intact.
Make sure that they can move freely in their grooves
Exchange the rings (top to bottom and vice versa) for a bit more compression.
Being a 8 year old saw and since you have it open on the bench, replacing the seals might be a good idea.
In the unlikely event you need to replace the cylinder (and piston), seriously consider those of the 390. They are a straight fit without any modifications, which would give the saw an extra 10cc displacement.

thecfarm

Dave W,welcome to the forum.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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