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Author Topic: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition  (Read 2800 times)

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Offline fishfighter

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2017, 04:03:50 pm »
Deere, when you add them, take some notes and of course pictures. ;D

Offline Andy White

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #21 on: March 11, 2017, 06:02:19 pm »
DannyLand,
The setup that you are asking about was done a while back by member Harold Siefke. I talked with him in detail, and he shared all the info to make the swap. There is a thread on here about it with great pictures. You may PM him for info on it. I haven't seen him on here for a while, so a PM may take some time.  Check on members tab at top and go to memberlist and look under H.        Andy
Learning by day, aching by night, but loving every minute of it!! Running HM126 Woodland Mill, Stihl MS290, Homemade Log Arch, JD 5103/FEL and complete woodshop of American Delta tools.

Offline clintnelms

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #22 on: March 11, 2017, 06:10:49 pm »
Dannyland,  did you ever get them Cooks guides installed on your Woodland 126 mill?  If you did I would like to see how you mounted them.  I bought a set of them and they showed up in the mailbox last night so am going to try to find some time to install them this weekend.  It looks like I am going to have to cut off a couple inches of the tube that the old blocks are mounted to and make a reversed looking C out of 1 1/2" square tubing to get the roller in the correct location to ride on the band correctly.  I have the same problems as you did, wavy cuts and bearings going out.  Hopefully this will take care of the problems, also I am on my second drive belt because it was scrubbing one side of the belt off.  Got to looking at it and when the old one got bad I thought it was just a cheap belt so I bought a good Gates belt installed it and after 30hrs it started doing the same.  Well when I installed the new belt and tightened it up that one bolt that slides the engine to tighten the belt it doesn't pull the engine square so the clutch pulley  wasn't aligned with the drive pulley so it started to scrub that side of the belt off again.  So when you tighten your drive belt make sure the clutch pulley is running true to your drive pulley or you will just tear up your new belt.

A while back I spoke to their tech support and he said when changing the belt to get the engine where it needs to be, straight, and tighten everything down and then put the belt on by walking it on. Works good by putting it on the small pulleys first then turn the wheel until it pops on.

Offline fishfighter

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Offline Deere80

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #24 on: March 13, 2017, 09:20:52 am »
Here it is just tacked up, I finished welding it up and aligning them but haven't milled anything yet.  It was -16 degrees this morning again so it might be a couple days before getting a chance to do any cutting.
 

 
 

 
 

 
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Offline Rougespear

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #25 on: March 13, 2017, 10:51:14 am »
Nice fabrication work... should function well for you!  I am correct in reading that the main tube of the Cook's guides is 1.5"x 1/4" wall?
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Offline fishfighter

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #26 on: March 13, 2017, 11:21:57 am »
Deere, how much did you cut off the tubes that held the old guides?

On a side note. I see that on your new guides, that flat plate suppose to mount under the blade. ;D I'm sure you have them like that to just to fab up things. ;D

Offline Deere80

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #27 on: March 13, 2017, 11:29:17 am »
Rougespear, yes that is 1 1/2" tubing.

Fishfighter, I installed them the way Cook's instruction told me to.  If you put that flat plate on bottom you would have no up/down adjustment to put down pressure on the blade, it would move the roller side to side instead of up and down.
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Offline Cutting Edge

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #28 on: March 13, 2017, 11:32:52 am »

...that flat plate suppose to mount under the blade. ;D ...




No, it is not. That is a deflector to prevent a piece of bark or other object from getting between the blade and roller guide.

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Offline Deere80

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #29 on: March 13, 2017, 11:51:59 am »
Cutting Edge,  so I do have them mounted correctly??  I thought that plate was a deflector for flying debris because on the bottom there is tapped holes for there BC jaw(bottom control) I believe that is what BC stands for.
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Offline Cutting Edge

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #30 on: March 13, 2017, 12:46:04 pm »
 smiley_thumbsup
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Offline fishfighter

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #31 on: March 13, 2017, 01:57:17 pm »
Well, thanks for correcting me. ;D So, Deere, how much did you cut?

Offline Deere80

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #32 on: March 13, 2017, 03:26:01 pm »
I left 3 3/8" of the original tubing coming down and cut 2 pieces of 1 1/2" tubing 5" long.  I hope it works out I will try to do some cutting this next weekend and give a report on the differences between the original design to the Cooks guides.
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Offline fishfighter

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #33 on: March 13, 2017, 03:33:28 pm »
Thanks and keep us in the loop.

Offline Deere80

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #34 on: March 14, 2017, 08:33:26 am »
well I cut 2 logs last night and on the first one the left guide roller was not turning as fast as it should, it was like there was not enough down pressure on the blade.  so instead of the 1/4" down pressure that they recommend I had to put 1/2" down pressure to make it turn properly.  Then I releveled the head and started cutting again, it seem to cut nice but  also I had just sharpened that blade.  Then when I quit I touched the blade and rollers to see if they were warm and the left side one that I had to lower to make it contact more with the blade was a little warm.  The blade was ice cold and right roller cold it was only 6 degrees out and windy so you could tell that the left roller was definitely creating heat.  So why would that one be getting warm, I had greased them before I started and it doesn't feel like I got a bad bearing because it feels good.  Only thing I can figure is I have to much down pressure and maybe it was so cold out that the grease was stiff enough that it was not letting the roller spin freely when I first started and have to put it back to the 1/4" down pressure as recommended from Cooks.  Any ideas of why this would be getting warm?
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Offline Rougespear

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #35 on: March 14, 2017, 10:54:53 am »
My rollers are always warm/hot to the touch after cutting (WM rollers).  I'm more concerned why you think the inboard roller is not turning at full speed... does it hang up when turning it by hand?
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Offline Deere80

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #36 on: March 14, 2017, 11:49:55 am »
Because when I engaged the blade it was turning half the speed as the right one so I stopped and went to turn it and when you grabbed it by hand to turn it,  it would just slip and not turn the blade with it so it wasn't making must contact with the blade.
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Offline Cutting Edge

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #37 on: March 14, 2017, 03:56:00 pm »

  Any ideas of why this would be getting warm?


Sounds like your horizontal alignment (left/right) is incorrect and the blade is "scrubbing" the roller guide.  Friction = Heat

You should only need 3/16"-1/4" max down pressure.  Being as these bearings were greased AND it being cold outside, I believe this is what attributed to the roller not turning... I did the same thing several years ago and ruined a roller because it caused a flatspot.  Since then I have only used quality sealed bearings.  Even in single digit temps, the roller turns relatively freely.


...when you grabbed it by hand to turn it,  it would just slip and not turn the blade with it so it wasn't making must contact with the blade.



You want enough friction between the blade and the roller to offer enough tractive force to ensure the roller turns.  Proper down pressure will do that.  Remember, it is a "guide" not a drive roller.  Yes, you will be able to turn it with your fingers, but you want enough pressure to ensure the roller spins with the blade while in operation.  Cold thick grease will prevent this.



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Offline Deere80

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #38 on: March 14, 2017, 08:07:47 pm »
Cutting Edge I never thought about that with the roller might not be turned into the blade enough.  I will have to check that out before I cut again before I wreck a brand new roller.
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Offline fishfighter

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Re: Woodland Mill 126 Cooks Guide addition
« Reply #39 on: March 17, 2017, 08:15:58 am »
Keep us informed. I will be doing this upgrade in the near future. Just have to much going on now.