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Show how you transport lumber

Started by kelLOGg, September 14, 2016, 01:27:23 PM

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kelLOGg

I frequently pick up logs, saw, sticker on my trailer and deliver to the customer. I secure the load with straps or load binders but the inner stacks of lumber don't get as secure as the outer stacks. How do you apply even pressure to all stacks? Shims? or other ideas?...
Bob



 



 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Bert

Im still hauling with it. :D I dont know that theres a way to secure stickered lumber when the tiers are not touching.
Saw you tomorrow!

Chuck White

I would use blocking to make sure there is pressure on all of the lumber
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

deepsouth.us

No offense to Jeff, but I've given up trying to post pics here. It's likely due to my own shortcomings.

I keep plenty of scrap lumber and blocking around. I use them atop the stacks and under the strapping to apply pressure as needed. Each load is different. Some loads require nothing where other loads take some time to get things just right.

I've found my loads haul best when I can align the bunks on the trailer directly beneath a row of stickers. I then try to run run the strapping along the same path. This way, everything is in line vertically, and the strapping applies solid/even pressure from top of stack all the way down to where the straps hook to the trailer.
Timberking 2000


bags

Place vertical boards in between each stickered stack of lumber, and then belly wrap the whole load--- that will pull all the boards into a tight block of wood. Then strap the belly wrapped lumber to the trailer.

drobertson

I use blocking between each bundle, ensure that the end stickers are even with the lumber or bairily sticking out, so strapping is not messing with the stickers, make sure the inside blocks take up more room than the sticks, this stops the sliding together which can hinder unloading.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

bandmiller2

If I'am transporting lumber I dead stack it on my truck its up to the customer to stick it. Only exception is if customer leaves his trailer I will stick it but its up to him to lash it down. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

pclausen

I built a pair of cradles out of 6x6s and mounted those to my trailer.  I can then stack my logs in a pyramid shape onto them.



 



 


teed

On my homestead, I mill with.
Logosol B1001 bandsaw mill
Woodland mill HM122 bandsaw mill
Logosol F2 with Speedsaw E5 chainsaw mill
Logosol Farmers with Stihl MS391 and MS661

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Gwhunter

Quote from: pclausen on September 17, 2016, 06:02:49 PM
I built a pair of cradles out of 6x6s and mounted those to my trailer.  I can then stack my logs in a pyramid shape onto them.



 



 

Welcome Peter! A lot bigger logs in that load than the sticks from the house project!

Matt

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, pclausen!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

If you can, try using one sticker that goes the width of the trailer.  Or just dead stack it, band it, and put two 1x4s on each side of the middle pack.  I thought hauling stickered lumber wasn't a good idea anyways? at least over a long distance
Boy, back in my day..

kelLOGg

Lots of good ideas, here, thanks. I like the belly band particularly.

I couldn't use one sticker the width of the trailer because the lumber is different thicknesses; 2" oak, 1" oak and 1.125" hickory. I would prefer to dead stack it but being it is a manual mill (read slow) I didn't want a dead stack during the 2 days I sawed it.

Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

4x4American

If they're different thicknesses just put same thickness boards in each row.  It dont matter if you have one row 4/4 and then the next row 5/4 and so on.  all you have to do is get it there.  I wouldnt put more than 3 sticks per row if its just sitting for 2 days until you can deliver it.  Unless they are picking it up with a tractor and your stickering if the final stickering.  At that point I would band each pack.

If you have to, sepereate dead stacks coming off the mill of different thicknesses.  Or if you're gonna saw alot of one thickness, say, 4/4, sticker stack that on the trail then have your 5/4 and 6/4 dead stacked close by and then sticker it on top.  You'll find somethig that works just try to look outside the box
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

Quote from: kelLOGg on September 14, 2016, 01:27:23 PM
I frequently pick up logs, saw, sticker on my trailer and deliver to the customer. I secure the load with straps or load binders but the inner stacks of lumber don't get as secure as the outer stacks. How do you apply even pressure to all stacks? Shims? or other ideas?...
Bob

I have to do this rather frequently, and there is nothing worse than getting to your destination and seeing that the stacks have crept together and the straps have loosed, or worse yet, a couple of the boards have migrated out of the stack and are about to jump into the road and maybe hit other vehicles.

So I always independently strap each stack with pallet strapping material, making it an independent, tight unit.  I've recently been using the Uline/Kubinec buckle straps, 1/2 to 3/4 inch, and it works great as I can re tighten a stack at any time, very easily, as opposed to normal crimps.

Also, when stickering a bundle I know I need to transport, I always stack so there is almost no sticker protruding from the sides of the stack.  That way I'm able to push multiple stacks together, in contact with each other, on the centerline of the trailer, so they brace each other when tightening the trailer web straps.  It's not unusual, after sucking the stacks down with the trailer straps, to have the pallet straps on the packs loosen.  So with the webbing buckles, it's a very easy thing to retighten  them banjo tight again.  That way both the individual pack banding is tight, and the trailer straps are also tight.
Also, it's important to try to get each pack on either side of the centerline of the trailer the same height, if possible, otherwise the top layers of the taller stack will have a tendency to slide because they don't have the other pack to brace against.  If I was transporting stacks like in your photo, I would band each pack individually, tightly, and trim the stickers with a chainsaw so I could push the packs together on the trailer. 

I built some bunks for my trailer (lots of photos in my gallery) that are removable, allow me to get a forklift under logs a lumber, and have removable side supports so it can be reconfigured in minutes from a log hauler to a lumber hauler.

Here's me going across scales with a load of walnut


Here's me in the process of unloading 4 non standard packs of lumber on the trailer, notice each pack is bound tightly with the orange strapping, then bound to the trailer with the big web straps.  Also notice, even though the packs aren't all the same height, I've grouped them as best as I can, across the trailer so all the tops layers brace against each other.  I've also labeled each pack individually with the Bdft with spray paint, as well as the total for the load, and our logo, HHA.  I always take a photo of each lumber drop so there is never any disagreement about what was delivered, the amount, or the date, which is recorded in my IPhone.  I've had to pull up these photos more than once as a record of delivery. 



When I just have a pack that won't behave, or for ones where I can't get the boards or stickers to behave, I mummy wrap the pack using industrial grade pallet Saran Wrap, available from both Lowes and Home D.  Nothing gets out of that. 





YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Quebecnewf


Across the zodiac of to the big boat and then home to the winch on the wharf.



For bigger loads we pack the water sled full . Tow it into the water ,then home to the wharf and use the fork lift to tow it back up the ramp onto the wharf. Different but works for me.
Quebecnewf

Magicman

newf, I always love to see those "water" pictures.  Yours is a completely different world.   :)

Nice loads Robert.  Professionally done by a Professional.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

YellowHammer

Quote from: Magicman on September 18, 2016, 08:15:20 AM
newf, I always love to see those "water" pictures.  Yours is a completely different world.   :)

Nice loads Robert.  Professionally done by a Professional.

Thanks for the compliment, it means a lot.

The Zodiac and the lumber is an amazing picture. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

hackberry jake

If you are loading and unloading with forks, make sure you have room to get them in/out.



 


 
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EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
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Glenn Ohman

Bike trailer whenever possible:



Glenn

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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