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Homemade Portables Bandsaw Sawmill Progress And Questions :)

Started by Jay Sybrandy, September 11, 2016, 11:01:27 PM

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york

I also see a problem with using tires-With that wide of a cut,you may have trouble,getting proper tension on your Band...
Albert

Jay Sybrandy

Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 15, 2017, 11:37:00 AM
With those wheels, you may have issues with a set on the blade.  You either need a tire that has a pretty good crown (think round profile) or you may need to cut part of the tread away to make a relief for the teeth. NICE welding.

I probably will grind a little out for the teeth and I am also running my drive belt on my tire as well because I can find a 27" pulley.

Thanks, I don't know about "Nice Welding" But they will hold


Quote from: york on April 15, 2017, 01:32:09 PM
I also see a problem with using tires-With that wide of a cut, you may have trouble, getting proper tension on your Band...

I was thinking that but I'm just hoping that I can.
Making large bandsaw sawmill - 15 Years old - NZ

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Jay Sybrandy on April 15, 2017, 04:52:04 PM
Thanks, I don't know about "Nice Welding" But they will hold

Welding thin wall stock is a real challenge for me.  Either it comes out pretty good or I blow through it.  Usually the latter.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 15, 2017, 06:29:12 PM
Quote from: Jay Sybrandy on April 15, 2017, 04:52:04 PM
Thanks, I don't know about "Nice Welding" But they will hold

Welding thin wall stock is a real challenge for me.  Either it comes out pretty good or I blow through it.  Usually the latter.

Try a 1/16" rod...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Actually, I picked up some 3/32" stainless to work on some 1/8" stainless sheet for a sailboat rudder project.  I used a few sticks to weld on some hinges to some thin tube stock.  Worked pretty well.  Then I found in my stash some 1/16" and found it worked pretty well on thin wall.  I had to dial my Lincoln welder to the lowest setting - 60 amps.  It was just barely hot enough to flow well.  I bumped it up to 75 and all it would do is just melt the rod - poof - limp spaghetti!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

I like to burn them hot. I use 1/2 a rod and put it down for a new one.
After it cools I finish it up.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jay Sybrandy

This box section isn't too thin it 3mm (1/8") its as about as thin as I can neatly weld without too many holes :)
Making large bandsaw sawmill - 15 Years old - NZ

Jay Sybrandy

I backed my trailer part of my mill into the shed to work on my carriage



I then cut and notched a bit of box section for the top then welded it in



This was my first attempt at upside down welding (MIG)



I welded 2 braces onto the bottom and 2 on top to hold it while welding.



Lifted it off then welding in 2 corner braces





I then setup my saw head to weld in 



I then made 2 gussets out of 5mm plate and welded them in





I have decided to use larger 6 stud wheels that are 700mm ( 27" ish ) outside butI have already welded stubs to a shaft for hubs that I have, so I need to make some hub spaces.

I started by cutting 2 200mm (8") out of 12mm plate



Our circle cutting jig for out plasma couldn't go down small enough so I had to free hand them. To true them up I drilled a 16mm hole in the center and held it on a piece of threaded rod on our "New Lathe"





I then bored the middle out to be a tight fit on the hub and then drilled 10 holes 4 to line up with my hubs and 6 to line up with my rims



I then turned a lip to be a tight fit on the inside of my rim



I then drilled my hole out to 14mm then tapped them to M16 and cut then cut 20 pieces of M16 rod 40mm for stubs







I also made 2 pulleys for my lifting my saw head



For my adjusting wheel, I made a slide out of 5mm plate





Then made a mounting plate to hold my wheel with u bolts (I made those holes into slots)






Making large bandsaw sawmill - 15 Years old - NZ

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jay Sybrandy

I then welded on the mounting plate that will hold my wheel to the slide. With 2 nuts on top to tension the blade and 4 on underneath to track the blade.





The wheel adapters work well (after my uncle who is a machinist trued them up a bit.)



I also mounted the statinaie side





Starting to look wheelie good :)



I then started to make my blade guides out of 40mm stainless steel and 2 26mm bearings.









I made my motor mount out of 8mm plate and 125x50mm (5x2") box section with an M16 (5/8") blot to adjust the blade tension.









( will add another photo of the motor fully mounted soon )

I then started on mounting the system for lifting the saw head up and down. I am using 12 tooth sprockets and 1/2" chain (i think). In the photos there is an electric mobility scoter motor but I had to replace that with a worm drive gear box because the electric motor would free wheel. I made chain tensions for both ends of the chain to aline the saw head with the bed and to keep the chains tight.











Next, I started on the guards. I chose to use aluminum checker plate with an angle iron frame around it. The front of the guards will hinge upwards so I can change the blade.







Making large bandsaw sawmill - 15 Years old - NZ

gww

Jay
Just a little food for thought.  I had used a long bolt as my tensioner.  I found that the threads would not hold up.  I then stole and ideal from member Ljohn on this site.  I switched out the bolt with a sissor jack that I took apart.  The threads on the sissor jack are much hardier.  Your threaded rod might be thick enough that you never have a problim but I thought I would throw this out for you if you ever do have a problim.  I wish I could weld as well as some of your welds look.
Cheers
gww

pineywoods

Beautiful welds. Your shop looks a lot like mine  ;D Best deal for blade tensioner is the cylinder and pump from a hydraulic floor jack. plumb in a 0-3000 psi pressure gauge. Look in Arnold113's picture gallery...Don't think you will like the screw setup...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Kbeitz

Quote from: gww on October 19, 2017, 09:09:41 AM
Jay
Just a little food for thought.  I had used a long bolt as my tensioner.  I found that the threads would not hold up.  I then stole and ideal from member Ljohn on this site.  I switched out the bolt with a sissor jack that I took apart.  The threads on the sissor jack are much hardier.  Your threaded rod might be thick enough that you never have a problim but I thought I would throw this out for you if you ever do have a problim.  I wish I could weld as well as some of your welds look.
Cheers
gww

I use the 3" wide nuts to protect the threads on the bolts.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jay Sybrandy

Thanks ( about the welding )

If the nuts of thread stip ill might make a long nut (6,8" long) or modify it to use a jack :)
Making large bandsaw sawmill - 15 Years old - NZ

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

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