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Stihl 066, Hasqvarna 285, or Husqvarna 2101XP for sawmill

Started by Comunga, August 18, 2016, 10:36:20 AM

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Comunga

Hello,
I am wanting to make an Alaskan Sawmill and have three options currently available that I think are pretty good but my chainsaw knowledge is limited so I thought I could ask for your opinion.

$900: Husqvarna 2101XP - Comes with the new 36" professional sprocket tip bar, new ripping/milling chain, and the 36" Granberg MKIII Alaskan chainsaw mill attachment.

$550: Stihl 066 - Stihl 066 for sale: new handle, triggers, gas tank, filters all around, starter, dogs, clutch cover and all new vibration dampers. Has a 25" bar with a relatively fresh chain

$500: Hasqvarna 285 - comes from a local dealer with a 32" bar.

Thank you for your input.



coppice

066.  The Husqvarnas are old enough that parts will be a problem.

Comunga


coppice

Without seeing it and handling it, that is obviously going to be hard to say for certain, but assuming the internals are good, then it likely is worth that price.

Bring a T27 with you, pop the muffler cover, and take a look at the piston before you buy - it is easy and the seller should not freak out about it.

SawTroll

Quote from: Comunga on August 18, 2016, 10:36:20 AM

.....

$550: Stihl 066 - Stihl 066 for sale: new handle, triggers, gas tank, filters all around, starter, dogs, clutch cover and all new vibration dampers. Has a 25" bar with a relatively fresh chain. 

.....

That sounds like someone has "refreshed" the looks and feel of a saw that has been trough extensive use?
Information collector.

celliott

Out of those 3, I'd consider the 2101 and the 066. The 2101 will have plenty of power and a manual oiler which would be real nice milling. Appealing that it comes all set up for milling as well, saves you having to buy the big bar and the mill. But, like someone else said, parts could be a problem.

The 066 is a proven design with tons of parts support, quality (and junk, be careful) aftermarket and OEM support. Look it over real well, see if it has any aftermarket parts on it. Plastics, muffler, etc. parts probably fine if AM, but ask questions if major parts are AM, like the crank, P+C, etc.

If you're real knowledgable and experienced running a saw, and can maintain and tune a saw really well, I'd go for the 2101, and see if you can talk him down a bit.
I'd say the 066 will be a bit more forgiving for a new\less experienced user. If you mess it up, parts are easy to get and have it repaired.
Both will hold their value well as quality 90cc+ saws.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

killamplanes

Word of advice. If you expect to put some time on this saw, and keep it along time. Buy new. Used saws are like used weedeaters, 50/50 if ur gonna get ur money out of them. I guarantee u a saw that has been used by one of us loggers is getting sold for a reason, but if u could find a gently used one that doesn't have new plastic and such on it, u maybe alright. but all new gas tank, handle, plastic etc. is not a good sign. It would be like buying a car with all new doors and fenders with a new paint job. just sayin
jd440 skidder, western star w/grapple,tk B-20 hyd, electric, stihl660,and 2X661. and other support Equipment, pallet manufacturing line

weimedog

066. Tons of am parts and support. Lighter than the big old husqvarna. Easiest of three to work on. Plenty of power.
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

killamplanes

jd440 skidder, western star w/grapple,tk B-20 hyd, electric, stihl660,and 2X661. and other support Equipment, pallet manufacturing line

Ada Shaker

If I were to buy a lemon, as someone already suggested, the 066 is easily repairable compared to the others,  that counts for something.
If it hangs to the left, your likely to be a Husqvarna man.
If it hangs to the right, your likely to be a Stihl man.
Anything else is an uncomfortable compromise.
                             AND
Walking with one foot on either side of a barbed wire fence can become extremely uncomfortable at times.

ZeroJunk

Yeah, I had a 2101Xp that was likely as pristine as any left in the country. I sold it for the simple reason of parts availability. The ignition is expensive as the dickens and I'm not sure you can find a top end at all. Meanwhile you can buy a useable ignition for the 066 for $20 and a useable top end for $60.

danbuendgen

~My local Husky saw shop can get parts for all those older saws still. So that should be the same for all Husky dealers IF they will take the time to order you old rare parts.
~I would pull off the muffler and check out the cylinder and look for scoring in whichever used saw you chose.
~That 385xp or 066 would be slow milling with only one. If you had one at each end of the bar, that would be better.
~The 066 scares me. All those new parts, my first impression is that someone ran it over with a skidder. Or it got smashed up somehow, and the saw was "ok" but needed all those parts to make it start and run.....

Stihl and Husky both make good saws. I only run Husky's. And that's because there is a good dealer that also sells logging supply's in my area. No good Stihl dealers around here, so I run Husky. I suggest you buy a saw with the best dealer support around your area.

Milling is HARD work for a chainsaw. Buy the biggest saw you can afford! You should have 90cc at a minimum. Or better have two 90cc saws. I also vote buying new. And mix your fuel 40:1 and keep the air filter CLEAN. If you plan to keep a chainsaw mill around for a long time and will use it often, buy new. If it's just occasional use, you could get away with a decent used saw. I was just looking at my local saw shop, they have new 395xp's for $1100. I did not look at the price for a new 3120xp, I would never need one. But a great milling machine! I see Alaskan mills for sale for cheap often. I bet for $1500 you could get a reliable set up and a new saw to last for years to come.
Husqvarna ~ TimberJack ~ Dodge Cummins

ZeroJunk

Don't think you will find a new top end for a 2101XP anywhere other than perhaps the occasional eBay new old stock that somebody found forgotten somewhere. Seen NOS go on eBay for $500.

celliott

Quote from: ZeroJunk on September 01, 2016, 12:51:06 PM
Yeah, I had a 2101Xp that was likely as pristine as any left in the country. I sold it for the simple reason of parts availability. The ignition is expensive as the dickens and I'm not sure you can find a top end at all. Meanwhile you can buy a useable ignition for the 066 for $20 and a useable top end for $60.

I had a Jonsered 920 in real good shape, and after getting very lucky on a chainbrake band, I sold it before I ever really ran it. I wanted it for a mill saw. Held out for a newer 395xp.
Sold the 920 for the same reasons you listed, parts can be hard to get, and if you're really using a milling saw, you're likely to break something eventually.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

Spike60

Have to disagree with Dan on this one. Parts for the 285/2100 family of saws are very scarce. Piston ring and base gasket are still around if you need to freshen one up. Recoil spring is still available. But really not too much else. But they are very rugged and a complete saw in good shape could very well run a long time.

If parts availability is important to the buyer, then it should be factored into the equation. And the degree to which the saw will be worked obviously affects the decision. But...........I do think we all tend to be a little too quick to dissuade someone from buying older saws with limited parts availability. We all reflexively say "you can't get parts, so cross it off the list." But let's be honest, many of us giving that advice happily grab those very same saws when we run across them.  :)

Walter........when you finally get around to putting your 298 on the project list you may reverse your "easiest to work on" ranking. Come on, my 2100 is anxious for the "heavy metal" GTG.  :laugh:
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

kjudd

I would go with the 066. Super easy to work on and parts can be had cheap. I accidentally fried my new to me used ms660. (first time trying to tune a saw and went to lean for to long)  Which lead me down the road of a Huztl Big bore kit and muffler mod. $50 later I now  have a 100cc saw that is now my milling saw. I have been milling 20 inch cherry that's been sitting for a year with it just fine. It mills 20 inch spruce and pine up like no ones business.

My one beef with the ms880 and 3120 saws is the price. (Don't get me wrong I want and ms880 for when I build my procut chainsaw mill) But to buy new you can by to ms661s for one 880. But used ones can be found at better deals.

danbuendgen

When did those parts get discontinued? I have a buddy that still runs a old 288xp for a landing saw and a few 262xp's for chopping. Yeah, he's wicked old school. He claims to get parts for them at our local saw shop. I know he just had one blow on him, and they re-built it. Maybe they just happen to still have ancient inventory around? I have to go to the saw shop soon, I'm gonna ask them for myself what the deal is.
Husqvarna ~ TimberJack ~ Dodge Cummins

ZeroJunk

Actually, Partstree shows a 2101 cylinder kit available  for $420.52 .

HolmenTree

I was running my 395XP the other day with a 36" .404 chisel chain lowering a 5 foot diameter cottonwood stump.
Ripped  it up into firewood for the homeowner so I didn't have to haul it away.
That saw reminds me it's got alot more grunt then my 066 Mag.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

danbuendgen

Yeah, I love my 395xp. Nothing slows it down. And very simple to work on. Good landing saw.
Husqvarna ~ TimberJack ~ Dodge Cummins

Spike60

Dan, I was referring to the 285-2100 chassis as being scarce on parts. You are right about the 288 as most everything for them is still available. I stock a lot of 288 stuff as there are some still running around here and like your buddy, those guys don't want to set them down.  :)

262 parts are still pretty good but starting to go away. Complete top ends, fuel tanks, the flywheel side seal holder, air filter cover are all NLA. That list will get longer as time goes on.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

weimedog

One of the folks who post over at the "other" site and on YouTube posted this....a Farmertek 660 56mm based milling saw... Don't know how its doing at this point. :) Tough to beat the "bang per buck" along with the "who cares" attitude needed to subject a saw to these conditions...:) I would never put a collectable or favorite saw in a milling operation again. I did with a McCulloch 797 and regretted it. BTW probably the best option for milling if added to the options here! over 100cc's and enough of an oiling system to handle the 36 inch B&C I used. Certainly not going to put my hobby 298 in that type of service! Another factor when considering milling ops...:) AND with the 56mm top ends as cheap as they are...buy one or two for backup! My bet is you will never need them and by the time you do, your going to either be DONE with the job at hand, or going to have a Band Saw milling operation!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHCtpxt0DjE
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

kjudd

Quote from: weimedog on September 02, 2016, 07:21:05 AM
One of the folks who post over at the "other" site and on YouTube posted this....a Farmertek 660 milling saw... Don't know how its doing at this point. :) Tough to beat the "bang per buck" along with the "who cares" attitude needed to subject a saw to these conditions...:) I would never put a collectable or favorite saw in a milling operation again. I did with a McCulloch 797 and regretted it. BTW probably the best option for milling if added to the options here! over 100cc's and enough of an oiling system to handle the 36 inch B&C I used. Certainly not going to put my hobby 298 in that type of service! Another factor when considering milling ops...:) AND with the 56mm top ends as cheap as they are...buy one or two for backup! My bet is you will never need them and by the time you do, your going to either be DONE with the job at hand, or going to have a Band Saw milling operation!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHCtpxt0DjE

This is my saw. Its a MS660 with the Farmertek BB top end. It has had a break from milling for a bit. Do to it being hot and I have been working on the house. But the saw just keeps running better and better. I have been toying with bumping my max Rpm up to 13500 to see how it does. Its at 12500 rpms as per recommendation of Weimedog.

weimedog

And can't beat the "been there" "Done that" approach to understanding the situation!! When you take that saw off the harness....and it goes back to being a saw why not 13000-13300?? That with a light Sugi or Total bar makes for a very nice and capable all around saw.

And THANK YOU for putting up that video BTW... I have mine at 13000 right now. Crisp saw. Really crisp. It has a 20inch Total light weight bar and I took off one bucking spike, the cover side obviously. Its a main saw in the work rotation now. The list of parts that are OEM have grown...chain adjuster, intake boot & impulse line, Gas & Oil caps & seals, Decomp. and Walbro. I solved its pull start issue. Great saw,one of my favorites. It sits in the truck along side the HTSS 562 and now the CC2CS 254. (CC2CS = Chicken Chit 2 Chicken Soup)
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

kjudd

Quote from: weimedog on September 02, 2016, 08:25:53 AM
And can't beat the "been there" "Done that" approach to understanding the situation!! When you take that saw off the harness....and it goes back to being a saw why not 13000-13300?? That with a light Sugi or Total bar makes for a very nice and capable all around saw.

And THANK YOU for putting up that video BTW... I have mine at 13000 right now. Crisp saw. Really crisp. It has a 20inch Total light weight bar and I took off one bucking spike, the cover side obviously. Its a main saw in the work rotation now. The list of parts that are OEM have grown...chain adjuster, intake boot & impulse line, Gas & Oil caps & seals, Decomp. and Walbro. I solved its pull start issue. Great saw,one of my favorites. It sits in the truck along side the HTSS 562 and now the CC2CS 254. (CC2CS = Chicken Chit 2 Chicken Soup)

I was going to give it a try at 13000/13500 for milling. See if I can get a few more rpms out of it during the cut. I have a tach mounted to the saw. There is only one way to find out if it will stay together. :)

My list of farmtek parts are BB kit , intake boot, and Gas cap. So far all are working great.

I hoping to make a few more milling videos this fall. Once my house projects slow down.

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