6-71 diesel

[Bert]

Ahhh ok. Ive never seen one set up like that. Pretty fancy to have an overtemp condition close the flap. Agree its prob best to just clean/flush it all out and see what happens with the temp. I had one that the block cracked and was doing all kinds of weird things. The ones made during the war were produced so fast the blocks didnt cure properly and were prone to cracks I was told.

[bandmiller2]

Max, what is the standard cycles (hertz) used in your country.?? Depending what your genset was used for it may not match your new mills motor. Ours is pretty much standard 60 cycles. Frank C.

[Satamax]

Thanks a lot Frank, for your reply.

Well, i'm running 1500 rpm, 50HZ 380V (well, a smidge low at 375vac)

The alternator is a french one. Don't know when it's been retrofitted to this. But all the wiring is late sixties or seventies. Everything should be fine.

If the worse comes, or if i get really fed up with this. I have just scored a "unic" V8 of 852 ci. With only 105 hours. in my snowblower.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,97397.0.html

I think this detroit gonna go to WW2 heavens. I mean, to a collector.  And i will run a monster slower, as i have a 2 speed transmission behind the V8. I'd like to run it at idle, or a bit more. And still produce power. Only problem, i have no governor on the engine. But nothing which can't be fixed with electronics.

[Satamax]

Same engine as this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3u73mfAtq7w

[Satamax]

Dang thing.

Overheated again today. Above boiling point.  Steam Comming out   >:(

[gmmills]

Satamax

     Try pulling the water pump and check the end of the drive shaft mounted in the blower housing. Make sure it is not warn or broken. Just need to confirm that the pump drive is actually rotating the water pump. I have seen this only one time many years ago. Virtually did everything you have previously tried to no avail. It ended up being the water pump drive shaft had warn past proper engagement, just slipped. No pump rotation.

[Satamax]

Ok, thanks a lot for your reply.

I know i have to do it. But, i need containers to save the coolant. It's new from last year (ok, not new then) and the engine has been run only 5 or six times since.

I need to address this.

Thanks again.

Max.

[sealark37]

A diesel that overheats with no obvious problem usually has a blown cylinder head gasket.  How many hours on your engine since overhaul?    Regards, Clark

[Satamax]

Hi Clark.

I should admit, i have no idea. I have started draining it. But ran out of containers. There's no mayo in the coolant.

[Satamax]

Well, taken the pump appart, locks on the drive. Pump seems real nice. But trying to bleed the oil heat exchanger,  nothing comes out.  Next step, open and check.  Head gasket is real oily.

[Satamax]

Taken the ruber pipe at the bottom.  Water flows through.  Depressing!

[Grizzly]

Nobodies mentioned it so maybe I'm way out in left field. I notice that screamer being run at 1500rpm. Any Detroit I've run and any mechanic I've been taught by says that those old detroits should not be laboured or loaded below 1900rpm. On our old truck (1980 Ford L8000 w/6-71N) it is very noticeable that as soon as you work the engine below 1800rpm temperature rises quickly. From what I remember exhaust temps rise very high (over 1200F) when you get into those lower rpms. I know there's some experts on here and I'm not trying to be one just offering my tidbit.

[Satamax]

Thanks a lot Grizzly.

That's mad. An engine you can't run at low rpm? Or it overheats? Well, i have to tap for the broken stud on the pump. Reassemble everything, refill with coolant. And run it when it's colder. I don't have high hopes. All the circuit is clean. I really wonder what is going on. I looked at the coolant, flashy yellow originally. Now it's brownish. Is it the rust, or is it exhaust gases getting in the coolant, because of a blown head gasket. I washed the whole circuit today.

If it continues to overheat, in goes the V8.

[Kbeitz]

At a race shop you can buy a water wetter. It makes your water wetter and help
the rad keep things cool. It really works.

[Satamax]

I was looking that way too.

Thanks Kbeitz

[dgdrls]

Nobodies mentioned it so maybe I'm way out in left field. I notice that screamer being run at 1500rpm. Any Detroit I've run and any mechanic I've been taught by says that those old detroits should not be laboured or loaded below 1900rpm. On our old truck (1980 Ford L8000 w/6-71N) it is very noticeable that as soon as you work the engine below 1800rpm temperature rises quickly. From what I remember exhaust temps rise very high (over 1200F) when you get into those lower rpms. I know there's some experts on here and I'm not trying to be one just offering my tidbit.

I agree, 1500 loaded seems too slow for a 2 cycle Detroit.
I would reach-out to DD or MTU for advise on optimum operating RPM range.

D

[Satamax]

Well. It's a gen set. So no choice!

I'm finding informations on the motor change.

It's not simple, single bearing alternator.  Seems to be sae#2 or something close on the GM. Sae#1 on the unic. Adapter is a welded thing. Dont know if there's a centering lip. I have enough meat to redrill for sae#1. The latest question is the coupling. The udea is growing on me. Only prob. Lack of time!

[Satamax]

I'm a dimwit!

Last time i tried to saw, i didn't pay attention, hertz were good. But yesyerday, i checked with the dmm. And my voltage was way off! 257vac, when it should be normally around 380. So i raised the presets a notch. Checked again,  376vac, and 53hz. (50 normally here) So i was all good. Sawed all afternoon. Didn't rise above 95 celsius. So, grizzly was partially right. I think, running a 29kw motor, meant for 380,  on 257 volts was loading the engine too.

Thanks guys!

[Grizzly]

I'm a dimwit!

Don'tcha hate days like that!!  :D

[Satamax]

I'm a dimwit!

Don'tcha hate days like that!!  :D

Yep, definitely!