New Guy with Questions

[PRC]

Hi everybody, I've been lurking here for awhile trying to read and absorb what I can.  I'm in the very early stages or building. (as in I'm cutting down trees for a driveway).  I'd like to begin by building a small timberframe structure. (I have plans for a 12x16 shed.   I made a few calls to price some timber and the prices I received were just out of the question for a shed.   To make a long story short,  I have plenty of trees on the property.  However, I don't have any pine.    I have Oak, Ash, Maple, Poplar, and even some Elm.  (not one pine tree).    Anything under 600 q ft doesn't need a permit where I'm located.   If I could manage to source the lumber from my own property, from the choices Ive given what would the experts recommend? 

Also, I saw a diameter calculator on here...For example, If I need an 8x8, you want to have a log that is  11.3 inches (minimum)....I can't find that link to the calculator....can someone help a newb out.  Thanks. 

Paul

[Jim_Rogers]

You can make your shed out of any type of tree you have on hand. Softwoods will be easier to cut joints into than the hardwoods will be.
If you have a heavy snow load you may want to figure your rafter sizes based on the snow load. You can use a good quality hardwood for the rafters where you'll need the strength to support your loads.

Years ago, I created a spreadsheet that calculates the diameter needed to make a timber or a group of pieces of lumber.
Then an old time carpenter told me to just take a framing square and measure from one dimension on one leg to the other dimension on the other leg diagonally across. This is the diameter of the log you'll need.
As you have mentioned and 8x8 will take a log with the minimum diameter of about 11 3/8". When I create a timber list, I then create a log list to cut the logs for that size timber.
The log list says (so many logs 11 1/2" or "larger" 12' long) the or "larger" is so that you will get some "side" lumber off the timber that you cutting for siding or decking for your project.

What I mean you can cut a "larger" log than 11 1/2" and it will help you to complete your stock list of lumber needed for your siding and decking.

If there is a diameter calculator here, it is most likely in the "red tool box" at the bottom of the left hand side of the forum screen.

Also, welcome to the forum.

Jim Rogers

[Brad_bb]

Welcome.  Any of those woods will work.  Don't be intimidated by cutting joinery in hardwoods. 

So what is your plan to mill your logs?  Hire a portable sawyer?

[PRC]

I've actually been spending some time on some other sites looking at chainsaw mills, I've been leaning toward a Granberg Alaskan Sawmill with the extensions.    This isn't something I'd ever want to do professionally, and I was shocked at how much a band saw mill costs.  I did see one at HF for about $1900, but I figured I'd work with the Granberg first, if I really enjoyed doing it, then maybe I'd invest in a band saw mill.  Lord knows, I'll be dead and gone before I run out of standing timber.

I'd also love to have a chain mortiser, but that's not in the cards either. 

[PRC]

I'd also like to point out that the $1900 HF band saw mill has met with some not so kind reviews that I've read as well.

[fishfighter]

That HF mill will make some beams. 10X faster then a chainsaw mill and 10X easy then a chainsaw mill. Read in the sawing section. There are a few guys there that saw with them.

[PRC]

I'll definitely check it out.  Thanks Fishfighter. 

Also, I forgot earlier...Thanks for the help Jim. 

[S.Hyland]

As to wood species... I would stick with the Oak and possibly Poplar. What kind of poplar are we talking? The label poplar can cover a lot of territory. Aspen tends to be squirrely as it dries for example. Tulip Poplar or Yellow Poplar are good easy to work choices. 

Oak, even though it is hard, tools beautifully and tends to be more stable when drying than some other hardwoods. A premium quality framing wood for sure.

Maple will twist like nothing else when drying, it tends to grow spiral grained. I will use it for small short accents like braces but nothing else. It is also hard to tool.

Ash tends to develop rather large checks but is not too bad to tool.

Elm is something I don't have much experience with in timber framing. I would expect it to be an absolute bear to work, as it is very tough and stringy. Have you ever tried to split Elm?