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Leave the Blade Engaged

Started by Rougespear, July 22, 2016, 10:23:07 AM

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Rougespear

I burned through my first B-series drive belt.  I wonder what is common practice as far as leaving the blade engaged during sawing goes?  Right now, I am throttling down and disengaging the blade clutch when I finish a cut and need to either remove a board and/or handle the log.  Time between cuts is maybe about 90-120 seconds.  I'm wondering if all the stopping and starting of the blade is what chewed through my drive belt, or whether it was just an el cheapo drive belt (it was a cheap belt after all)?  What are others doing?  Is there an issue with blade life if I just leave the blade engaged for a minute or two without sawing??  That should safe wear and tear on the blade engagement mechanisms...

Thanks!
Custom built Cook's-style hydraulic bandmill.

ladylake


  A lot of times I just idle down the engine without disengaging the blade, when I'm sawing shorter logs with a off bearer I don't even slow the engine down, no point to that for the little time it takes to get the head back and start the next cut. When turning I'll disengage the blade.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

logs2lumber

I have the auto clutch on my woodmizer . i disengage my blade some say that the more it turns the less life you get out of it and it saves the wear and tear on the engine not being idled up all the time . If its short logs and i am sawing fast and help is keeping up i let it run.

Carson-saws

I personally practice leaving the mill run engauged.  Depending if you are running gas or diesel only makes the difference that the diesel runs better when running longer.   In regard to "engaging the blade", the less you move "moving parts" the less apt you are to create failure.  Like the brakes on your vehicle, the more you use them the more you wear them out.  For what little time you mentioned, personally, is not that significant the the stress/wear you put on your mill.
Let the Forest be salvation long before it needs to be

simonlow


Rougespear

No... my mill is a home-brew Cooks'/Timberking knock-off.
Custom built Cook's-style hydraulic bandmill.

Magicman

There are valid arguments/reasons both ways so it is a matter of personal choice.  Accidentally bumping something with an engaged blade would probably knock the blade off and possibly ruin it.  One of the blade life factors is the flexing as it goes around the blade wheels.  Personally, I disengage at the end of every cut and idle on gig back. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Joe Hillmann

I leave mine engaged unless I need to step in front of the head (usually when turning a larger log)  I wore out my first clutch and think it had a lot to do with kicking it in and out for every cut.  Of course leaving it running can affect blade life and the bearings in the blade wheels.

Joe Hillmann

Also for longer life of the clutch.  I idle the engine down then engage it rather than engage it with the engine sped up.

YellowHammer

I will do it either way, but when I'm hitting my stride, I'll leave the engine throttled up and blade engaged because the alternator will drive the voltage up, and give me faster hydraulics.   ;D
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Magicman

Actually your idle speed should be adjusted to above the point where the alternator is putting out it's max,  generally @1500 rpm, but I understand your thinking.  General terms are never absolute.   ;)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

starmac

On my older lt40 the engine automatically revs to operating speed by engaugeing the clutch. Is there a way to idle it down and leave the blade engauged??
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Ga Mtn Man

If I were going to be doing something other than cutting for 90-120 seconds, I would definitely disengage the blade/idle the engine.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

bkaimwood

90-120 seconds is a LONG time for a blade to be spinning 5k fpm and not be cutting lumber. When I am production sawing, I leave the blade engaged while gigging back, but this time must be somewhere around 8-10 seconds, although I never timed it. When I am specialty or custom cutting, and every cut requires my fullest attention, I disengage. Such situations would be grade sawing, certain stress notorious woods, and many others that require a watchful eye for many reasons. I agree that lesser engagements mean less drive belt wear...I hate hearing the engagement chirp, indicates wear. Mine certainly looks used at 300 hours. Autoclutch has its pros and cons...
bk

woodmills1

Just the noise alone is enough for me to disengage if I am doing anything other than dropping to the next cut.  The 70 is automatic with a small switch so I even throttle down when maybe the slab will act funny.   Yes this will be all caps....THE ONLY TIME i GET CLOSE TO A RUNNING BLADE IS TO SQUIRT IT WITH MY MIX.  All caps done for emphasis on safety first.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Chuck White

The blade going around the blade wheels and the blade guide rollers acts the same as a piece of wire, it will only bend (flex) just so many times and it WILL break!

My owners manual states "disengage the blade when finished with a cut"!

If you gig back with the blade engaged and you bump something with the blade, it will come off of the blade wheels and will usually be a total loss!

The drive belt on my LT40 has been in use over 2 years and shows no appreciable wear!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

red

There are many variables . Manufacture of sawmill engine size and auto clutch . Type of wood and length of log . Mostly a personal choice . Run it hard but don t abuse it .
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

Sixacresand

At the end of the cut I hit the switch to disengage and idle down. I was told it prolongs the life of blades, but it can't help but prolong the engine life.  I know engaging and disengaging takes a toll on the drive belts and engaging mechanism.  Engaging definitely takes its toll on my hearing.  The only reason I wear muffs.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

red

The blade is not under load . Do you put your auto trans in neutral when going down a hill ?
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

ozarkgem

disengage when turning the log other wise I leave it engaged as long as I am  sawing . It only takes a few seconds to bring the head back and mine is still coasting at that point.Mine is electric so motor wear is not an issue. As far as blade life, I sharpen them till they are too narrow to use. I doubt that engaged or disengaged changes blade life that much. I also have an obsolete electric clutch that I don't want to wear out. Blades are cheaper. Would be interesting to see an actual scientific study on the blade life difference.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

Sixacresand

Most my blades don't make it to their 3rd sharpens due to nails, logs stops or clamps.  So metal fatigue of blades is probably not an issue for me.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Knute

I always disengage after every cut. Never thought about doing it another way. I saw alone so my blade would be spinning way too much while not cutting wood.

Delawhere Jack

How many hours did your belt last? My 1995 LT40HDG24 operators manual specs the belt life at approx. 500 hours. I disengage between cut 98% of the time. Have lost a couple belts at less than 500hrs, but due to other issues, not wear.

WV Sawmiller

   I do both. First I mostly saw alone. If others are around I generally disengage immediately at the end of the cut. When alone cutting short stuff I may leave it running while I return to the start. I have ruined blades like MM mentions on my first cut return if a limb stub is up too high and I fail to raise the blade enough. I always disengage if I am turning loose of the controls to move a board or slab or adjust a log or cant.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

simonlow

I think the original poster is as much concerned by munching drive belts.With the belt disengaged,the drive pully still spins,which causes friction/heat/early failure.

Do you have a third wheel/rod/bar to help reduce friction when the belt is not not engaged?

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