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I have some walnut to saw????

Started by hbeane, July 14, 2016, 06:12:10 PM

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hbeane

My uncle gave me a big walnut tree that blew down in his yard from a recent storm.  I am new to sawing and only have milled some poplar and pine. Anything I should know about milling walnut?
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warren46

I have not sawn a lot of walnut but in my limited experience it is easy to mill.  The only complication I have found is if there is a large knot or crotch.  These can be hard and require a slower feed.

Walnut is usually flat sawn to show the cathedral grain on wide boards.  It is not usually quarter sawn or rift sawn as these boards to not have as interesting grain in my opinion.

Boards containing the pith or heart of the tree will almost always split.  It is best to edge the pith off of boards that are through the center of the log.
Warren E. Johnson
Timber Harvester 36HTE25, John Deere 300b backhoe/loader.

bluthum

Yard trees are always more likely to contain metal and such so it pays to be more alert in that respect as well.

WV Sawmiller

hbeane,

   Walnut I have sawed has been easy to saw. If cutting hard crotches and such I use a 4 degree blade from the start although a sharp blade and slower feed should usually get you through it.

   If the tree has not already been bucked into logs be sure to have plenty of end sealer (Anchorseal or ?) ready and seal them as soon as they are bucked. If already cut get them sealed as soon as possible. Walnut is not as bad to check IMO as ash or cherry but it will check pretty easily and too high value wood to lose any that could have been easily prevented

   Good luck. I think you will enjoy it.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

OffGrid973

There are also some ideas out there about letting the logs sit for a few months to allow darker colors to set in before sawing (not sure why).

Also some folks love air dry and others look for kiln, so figure your possible end game and seal he heck out of ends and any checks.  I flat saw at 10/4 so when I split again after drying the book match really looks nice and wood moved exactly the same.

Good luck, send pics.
Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

bkaimwood

X2...I like to let walnut logs sit as long as I can before sawing as well. They are like fine wine. I don't know why? I sawed the blackest black walnut I've ever seen last week...Sawdust looked like wet coffee grounds.
     I saw walnut anywhere from 4/4-10/4 typically. Sales runs in spurts...seems for months at a time, all callers want 4/4...the next run will be 8/4. Having a wide selection helps me please everyone. It all sells eventually...$$$ in the bank...
bk

scully

To date I have sawn a few thousand feet of walnut . It behaves rather well . I did saw some last summer that was very green . The sap was like acid and my son and I both got burns that blistered around the cuffs of our gloves and our for arms . That was the only time that has happened . I agree that letting walnut logs sit is better , the deep browns seem to migrate further out into the sap wood .
I bleed orange  .

WDH

When sawing the first boards off the log, if the board has all sapwood on one side and mostly heartwood on the other, it is certain to bow when drying.  Sometimes dramatically.  The mistake that I made when first sawing walnut was to try and recover as much wood as possible from sawing the log.  This was from a woodworker perspective and not a sawyer perspective.  So, I learned the hard way that those very sapwoody boards on one side ended up with very bad quality, bowed excessively, and were a waste of time.  If there is a pretty wide sapwood ring, I would slab it a little heavy when opening up the log.  I have had the same experience with sawing cherry which also has a sharply contrasting sapwood ring. 
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dboyt

I agree about keeping sapwood to a minimum.  Lots of problem with warping otherwise.  If you have a crotch turn it crosswise on the mill, and you'll get some excellent feathered grain.  If you cut slabs, and plan to move the wood out of your area, remove all the bark so you don't risk transporting thousand canker disease.  The advice on end sealing and letting the log age is good (especially end sealing).  Looking forward to photos.
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hbeane

Quote from: warren46 on July 14, 2016, 06:41:48 PM
I have not sawn a lot of walnut but in my limited experience it is easy to mill.  The only complication I have found is if there is a large knot or crotch.  These can be hard and require a slower feed.

Walnut is usually flat sawn to show the cathedral grain on wide boards.  It is not usually quarter sawn or rift sawn as these boards to not have as interesting grain in my opinion.

Boards containing the pith or heart of the tree will almost always split.  It is best to edge the pith off of boards that are through the center of the log.

Thanks for the help. You have some great points here. I will be careful with the pith. Looking forward to sawing it but from the reading I have done maybe I should wait. Thanks for the help
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hbeane

Quote from: bluthum on July 14, 2016, 07:04:08 PM
Yard trees are always more likely to contain metal and such so it pays to be more alert in that respect as well.
Something I have not thought of and you make a great point. I will almost guarantee his kids my cousins have shot that tree with there 22 at some point. They are to ornery to have not done that.  Also you helped me in another way. " see honey that whites metal detector I spent $1000 on is a tool now!!!" I am sure she won't buy it but I love to go detecting and I do spend to much money on metal detectors and all the toys that come with it. Thanks alot
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hbeane

Well I am showing my inexperience here I know but I have not sealed the ends of any logs or boards. I have only milled pine and poplar and very little ash.  Any suggestions on what I should use. Is it something I can buy local or will I be ordering it on the Internet?  Also while I am asking about that my logs are getting chewed up by bore bees (I think) or something like that but seems to be leaving my lumber alone. What can I do? And should I protect my lumber and logs by spraying them with something or is this a battle I can't win?
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hbeane

Thank you for all your help. I am going to set my walnut aside a few months I was looking forward to sawing it today but I will wait. Heading over now to the mill. It FINALLY cool this morning and looking forward to a nice day f milling some pine today.  My belly is full and here I go out the door happy. Feels like fall this morning and I love it. Gives me the fever of chasing them white tails through the woods. I love fall. I know it's not here but I am gonna pretend for the day. Hope everyone has a great day and if your milling today be careful.
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WV Sawmiller

Quote from: hbeane on July 16, 2016, 08:16:01 AM
Well I am showing my inexperience here I know but I have not sealed the ends of any logs or boards. I have only milled pine and poplar and very little ash.  Any suggestions on what I should use. Is it something I can buy local or will I be ordering it on the Internet?  Also while I am asking about that my logs are getting chewed up by bore bees (I think) or something like that but seems to be leaving my lumber alone. What can I do? And should I protect my lumber and logs by spraying them with something or is this a battle I can't win?

hbeane,

   I recommend Anchorseal. You can go on line to UC Coatings and buy it directly from them. I find the best deal to be the 5 gallon bucket for $92 shipping included. You can buy smaller amounts but you have to pay shipping and higher unit price so I find the 5 gallon deal the best. I just slap it on thick with an old paint brush. I bought the clear. Goes on white like milk then dries clear. You can seal a lot of logs with 5 gallons so what you don't use now will be there for the next use too.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

hbeane

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on July 16, 2016, 08:58:04 AM
Quote from: hbeane on July 16, 2016, 08:16:01 AM
Well I am showing my inexperience here I know but I have not sealed the ends of any logs or boards. I have only milled pine and poplar and very little ash.  Any suggestions on what I should use. Is it something I can buy local or will I be ordering it on the Internet?  Also while I am asking about that my logs are getting chewed up by bore bees (I think) or something like that but seems to be leaving my lumber alone. What can I do? And should I protect my lumber and logs by spraying them with something or is this a battle I can't win?

hbeane,

   I recommend Anchorseal. You can go on line to UC Coatings and buy it directly from them. I find the best deal to be the 5 gallon bucket for $92 shipping included. You can buy smaller amounts but you have to pay shipping and higher unit price so I find the 5 gallon deal the best. I just slap it on thick with an old paint brush. I bought the clear. Goes on white like milk then dries clear. You can seal a lot of logs with 5 gallons so what you don't use now will be there for the next use too.
I did as you say I ordered some online. Will be here Thursday looks like.  If I seal my logs do I need to seal lumber ends after I mill? And only apply to ends? Ever a time I want to put it anywhere else.  Thanks for the help
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GAB

Speaking of Anchorseal - does it need to be kept out of the cold in the winter time?
Gerald
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WDH

I believe that there is a winter formula.

If you seal the logs well with anchorseal, you do not have to re-seal the lumber once sawn. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

wolf nemeth

     while we're talking  walnut...I have been told by one sawyer that it's not good to cut them in the summer due to sap.  Anybody with walnut-milling experience have some input on this?
If you  don't know where you're going, you'll probably end up somewhere else!

WDH

The moisture content in a tree is relatively constant throughout the year.  What do you mean by "sap"?
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Ianab

Quote from: wolf nemeth on July 16, 2016, 07:52:14 PM
     while we're talking  walnut...I have been told by one sawyer that it's not good to cut them in the summer due to sap.  Anybody with walnut-milling experience have some input on this?

It not so much the "sap", but there may be valid reasons to cut in a certain season. In the winter the cold weather means that bugs and fungus are dormant, and the initial drying of the wood is much slower (Less risk of checking). So you may get better results. But it's not because of what the sap is doing.

Conversely cutting pine here in winter is a bad idea as it's not cold enough to stop fungus attacking your boards, but damp enough to prevent them drying quickly. So in that case it's better to saw in Summer when you can get the wood dry fast, before the bugs and fungus get a chance to move in.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

hbeane

I ordered the anchor seal and I got an email this morning asking if I want clear or what color I want. Just your all experience is the colored better or a problems down the road.
Woodmizer LT15
1949 John Deere M
025 Stihl
250 Stihl
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WV Sawmiller

hbeane,

   I doubt it makes much difference unless you want to start color coding logs in your yard. I use the clear and prefer it because I think it is easier to see the season cracks which determine my logs orientation when I open and saw them.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

hbeane

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on July 18, 2016, 09:05:27 AM
hbeane,

   I doubt it makes much difference unless you want to start color coding logs in your yard. I use the clear and prefer it because I think it is easier to see the season cracks which determine my logs orientation when I open and saw them.
Makes sense to me gonna go with the clear. Thanks again. The more I am on my mill and read there is so very much I have yet to learn. I appreciate everyone's help. If not for this site there would he so much MORE trial and error. I have enough of that already. I love having and endless supply of wisdom and knowledge. I hope to be sealing log ends by the weekend.
Woodmizer LT15
1949 John Deere M
025 Stihl
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Carson-saws

I would suggest that you "grade" the log best you can.  From that determine what it is  you are trying to achieve from the Walnut wood.  After you kant the log and have a better idea of the grade you have to work with have it kinda sorta clear in your head what you definately want the end product to be used for.
Let the Forest be salvation long before it needs to be

Solomon

All the wood workers I know want flat sawn walnut.  I have never expierenced any serious bowing or other movement that some on this thread have.
Walnut has always behaved itself reasonably well for me.
I normally saw it 5/4  and 8/4  and a few 12/4 live edge slabs.
Never had any real problems with it.
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