iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Beginner to start cutting firewood

Started by Jigzor, July 09, 2016, 08:43:04 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jdonovan

Quote from: khntr85 on July 12, 2016, 08:05:44 PM
Yes a lot of people here will say it's not a pro saw its junk....
its not that they are junk, its just when you take it in for repair, and the bill is 3/4 the value of a new saw, a lot of new saw owners get a shock. Then they discover for 30-50% more they could have had a more repairable saw, and there is some buyers remorse.

All I think we are saying with regard to home/ranch/pro saws is the OP should know there is a difference in designed duty cycle, and repair/maintenance costs, and with that knowledge in hand, he can make a more fully informed decision as to which saw best fits his budget, and anticipated needs.

Czech_Made

Quote from: John Mc on July 12, 2016, 08:27:31 AM
Quote from: Czech_Made on July 11, 2016, 10:31:54 AM
I got Husqvarna Rancher few years ago and I am quite happy with it.

Edit:  But I improved it somewhat, changed the drive to sprocket rim system, I like it better than the original Rancher solution.

I did the same thing to my cousin's 460. He tends to beat the heck out of it and run it well past the point where the chain is dull. So every time I visit I do some basic maintenance - usually deburr & square up the bar, sharpen chains, check the mixture, etc. This last time I removed his old clutch drum with the worn out spur sprocket and replaced it with the rim sprocket.

I have two narrow kerf chains and a bar left from a Solo that died on me  - used it for milling, stupid me :) - and the sprocket system lets me alternate between different chains as needed.

BTW narrow kerf chain makes the saw cut really well.

Ada Shaker

Another option is to buy a good used saw in the 50cc to 60cc range.  It'll give you an insight to how much power you need or would like.  There are a number of advantages to this. You'll get an insight  into the saws weight, power, etc over a short periode of time. Theres more to chainsawing than just picking one up and saying, she'll be right, I can lift it. It'll get you into the game so that you know what your in for, and learn what you need to learn.
You can always flog it off latter one for probably around the same price that you paid for it, or two, you may wish to hold onto it as a backup saw. Nothing worse than going out for firewood and finding your primary saw wont start, or worse, I'll let your mind ponder on that one.  At least with a backup, it makes that hrs drive more bearable, knowing that at least you'll come home with a load of wood. Don't forget to pick up some plastic wedges for when your bar gets pinched, so you can free it up. If your young, you'll probably get many years out of a saw so it pays to get a good one early on, if your buying new. Saws a pretty cheap stateside, unlike here where we pay a gazillon dollars for one.
If it hangs to the left, your likely to be a Husqvarna man.
If it hangs to the right, your likely to be a Stihl man.
Anything else is an uncomfortable compromise.
                             AND
Walking with one foot on either side of a barbed wire fence can become extremely uncomfortable at times.

woodsdog2015

So I'm a newbie firewood cutter too having gone through my first season (last winter) burning wood.  I went through about 15-17 face cord and never turned on our thermostat for our electric forced air furnace once thanks to wood burning. I have four saws, I started out with an MS251 WoodBoss which I received as a Christmas present the year before.  Prior to that I just had a little (but hell of a great saw) Echo CS-300 which I still own and use for limbing and small jobs and for clearing treestands for hunting. Anyway, that MS251 did most of my wood then after really cutting on a large diameter maple I realized I needed something bigger.  I bought a MS362CM and both saws are truly a pleasure to operate.  I went with the great advice of Holmen Tree on this forum for the new Stihl 2n1 sharpeners and I also upgraded the chains from the green anti kickback to the yellow stuff and have noticed a considerable difference in cutting speed.  The 2n1 files are very good for me so far in the woods for resharpening.  I'll see how my long term work goes with them.  I don't think you can go wrong with Stihl plus I have a great dealer.  I think my next purchase in a couple of more years will be an upgrade of the MS251 WoodBoss to the MS241 and with those two saws I have been able to keep myself burning wood thusly.  I'm just a simple firewood cutter and these saws have served me well so far.
I'd rather be in the woods.
MS362CM
MS251
CS-300
Homelite 8800
FiskarsX27

woodsdog2015

Oh yea and wouldn't know after I bought the MS362 I was driving by a yardsale and a Homelite 8800 was sitting out there calling to me.  I cleaned it all up and put a new bar and chains on it but its so heavy I don't use it much. 
I'd rather be in the woods.
MS362CM
MS251
CS-300
Homelite 8800
FiskarsX27

Jigzor

I stopped at a local dealer on my way home from work. I ended up purchasing a Husqvarna 455 Rancher for $375. Came with 20" bar which is nice because a coworker can give me chains. Thanks for all of your help, I appreciate it.

DelawhereJoe

Safe cutting to you, just remember sharp chains cut better and faster with less fatigue on you.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

tranabo_bjoern

Quote from: Jigzor on July 15, 2016, 08:41:42 PM
I stopped at a local dealer on my way home from work. I ended up purchasing a Husqvarna 455 Rancher for $375. Came with 20" bar which is nice because a coworker can give me chains. Thanks for all of your help, I appreciate it.

Congrats to the new saw & happy cutting  :). Fell vibrations from the bar -> time to sharpen. Since you get chains from your coworker. Compare the data on the bar by the head (can be inside depending if the logo on the bar is upside down). Both the same, swap chains..... Otherwise, carry your on.
Just do it!

Husky 395xp 20 inch bar
Husky 460xp x-torq Rancher 24 and 20 inch bar
Husky 61 18 inch bar
Jonsered 2234 14 inch bar
McCulloch cs 380 18 inch bar

khntr85

Oh hey just to add one important thing.... For years I did not wear any protective chaps...thank GOD I have never gotten hurt in the woods as I always cut alone....I have seen lots of pics from truly seasoned pros that have been cut by saws, and it can literally make you bleed out before you get to your truck..... I now have a 1-year old daughter to provide for, so I *DanG sure got to stay safe... It may be hot or inconvienant but I wear the chaps, and suggest you do too.... I got a pair of nice chaps, safety glasses, and protective face shield with hard hat and ear protectors for like $50 to my front door.... It's money well spent!!!!!

motohed

Having run saws for better than fourty plus years , I would opt for  Husqvarna 562 xp in 16" wood or less and a Stihl ms460 or 461 for anything above 16" wood ! I would also consider a Huqvarna 550xp or ms 261 too round out the package

DelawhereJoe

It kinda sounds like you don't give the saws enough credit, but I suppose if time is money then the less time it takes to make a cut the better.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

WoodBurner19

 Hey guys. This is my 2nd saw for about 8 years now. It's been flawless! I only use it to buck up firewood. Have an 18" bar on it.  I'm also comparing the MS 391 to the MS 362 C-M pro saw. Still doing research.



 
MS 270 C   MS 461,  Remodeling Contractor, Married, 2 kids, 2004 Dodge Deisel, 2013 4X4 KingQuad, Stihl saws, 35 ton 4way Splitter.

btulloh

MS 362 is worth the extra money.  Better balance, more maintainable.  Just works better.  They are similar specs except the 362 is the pro version.  Lighter weight, more power.  Feels better.  I had a chance to use a 391 for a couple months.  Not even close to the 362 for my taste.

I don't want to offend anybody.  The farm and ranch saws are ok.  The pro saws are just better.  If you save a little money buying the farm and ranch saws, you'll spend it later on maintenance. 
HM126

WoodBurner19

Quote from: btulloh on October 02, 2016, 08:30:35 PM
MS 362 is worth the extra money.  Better balance, more maintainable.  Just works better.  They are similar specs except the 362 is the pro version.  Lighter weight, more power.  Feels better.  I had a chance to use a 391 for a couple months.  Not even close to the 362 for my taste.

I don't want to offend anybody.  The farm and ranch saws are ok.  The pro saws are just better.  If you save a little money buying the farm and ranch saws, you'll spend it later on maintenance.

And you believe it's a worthy step up? I keep reading comments about the pros n cons of the 20" & 24" bars, any experience from you? Thank you!!
MS 270 C   MS 461,  Remodeling Contractor, Married, 2 kids, 2004 Dodge Deisel, 2013 4X4 KingQuad, Stihl saws, 35 ton 4way Splitter.

CTYank

Quote from: DelawhereJoe on July 15, 2016, 09:46:03 PM
Safe cutting to you, just remember sharp chains cut better and faster with less fatigue on you.

Sharp chain is also safer, in that the cutters go through the wood with less force, which equates to reaction force either pulling or pushing on the saw.

The main thing is to touch up the chain every couple of fillups, rather than waiting until it's dull. IOW, keep it sharp. You'll like the results. BTW, I keep a Granberg clamp-on file guide in my saw-stuff bag.

I ran a 455r for 3 years without a problem, then sold it to a bud when I got a 61 cc Dolmar. He's run it now for a couple years as his "heavy artillery" without drama. Much better access to stuff than 250/290/390 series should attention ever be required, IMO. Good saw to learn on. Good Luck.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

btulloh

Quote from: WoodBurner19 on October 02, 2016, 09:37:48 PM

And you believe it's a worthy step up? I keep reading comments about the pros n cons of the 20" & 24" bars, any experience from you? Thank you!!

(I think we're hijacking this thread - sorry - maybe this should be a new thread . . . )

I use the 24" bar mostly and it runs just fine.  I like to use the shortest bar that will do the job though.  Less to sharpen, etc. Search some recent posts - there was a long discussion about this a while back.
HM126

WoodBurner19

Thank guys! I'm going to go with the MS 362 C-M. I'll post on a new thread when I get it.  :)
MS 270 C   MS 461,  Remodeling Contractor, Married, 2 kids, 2004 Dodge Deisel, 2013 4X4 KingQuad, Stihl saws, 35 ton 4way Splitter.

Thank You Sponsors!