iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Dead Batteries

Started by loggerman1959, July 08, 2016, 02:22:12 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

loggerman1959

I'm not much of a mechanic , so id like some advice from from the wrench turners out there . The batteries on my old skidder keep dying , and when I jump it and run it all day , at the end of the day I shut it off and it still don't start . How do I tell if its a bad battery , or alternator , or maybe a bad ground somewhere ? Apreciate any help I can get .

woodmills1

use a voltmeter to check the voltage, it should be 12 volts across the terminals of each battery when not running.  It should be at least 13.2 when running.  If it isn't 13.2 or more it is the charging system.  Batteries don't last as long as they used to, especially when subjected to the vibration of off road work.  If it is 13.2 or more you may have bad batteries or a drain on the electrical system.  Most parts stores will load test batteries, a drain on the system is harder to find.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

red

In any machine that works in rough terrain I am a strong believer in AGM Batteries.  But you have to do your own research.
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

ohiowoodchuck

If say the batteries are junk. The alternator is probably working enough to keep the skidder going such as the fuel shutdown solenoid etc. check and clean all your connection first and then check the batteries like the fellow members stated above.
Education is the best defense against the media.

ScottAR

Might also have the alternator/regulator checked out.   If it has an internal reg. the diode can be bad.  Think of the diode like a check valve; allowing voltage out but not drawing back in.

When the diode dies the alternator can draw out as much voltage/amps as it's producing and ruining the batteries in the process.
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

lopet

When you're saying the batteries keep dying that could have several reasons.

It could be a bad one with a bad cell and it will not hold the charge anymore.

Or you have something draining it. You can fix that with a master switch which disconnects the ground.

Or to check your alternator you can take of your positive terminal on your battery and you should read 13 + volts coming from the alternator, like woodmills said.
If not I suspect the problem is in your charging system. How old is the battery ?  One or two ?
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

Ed_K

 When you get the batts. and voltage figured out still add a master switch.I had problems with the skidder and the massy model 30 tractor, the switch solved it. It was draining thru the gauges.
Ed K

John Mc

Quote from: woodmills1 on July 08, 2016, 02:33:47 PM
use a voltmeter to check the voltage, it should be 12 volts across the terminals of each battery when not running.

Actually, if a 12 volt lead-acid battery measures just 12 volts when at rest, it is significantly discharged. The resting voltage of a healthy, fully charged lead acid battery should be around 12.6 or 12.7 volts.  If you measure 12 volts, it's already about halfway discharged. Here's a bit of background:
http://modernsurvivalblog.com/alternative-energy/battery-state-of-charge-chart/
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

ohiowoodchuck

Not to hi jack the thread here but if you was going to put a disconnect on the ground side. If it had two batteries would you wire the grounds together then go to the switch and then ground. I need to put one on my 440
Education is the best defense against the media.

starmac

On my trucks I installed 2 switches for the four battery systems, two batterys are hooked together and the ground goes to a disconnect switch.  My forklift just has one battery, so one switch. I don't have anything but pickups with 2 batterys and no switches on them.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Ed_K

 You only need one switch for two batts. You hook both batts. positive to positive and neg to neg,with a second wire from to negative post to the switch and another wire from switch to the frame. The second pos. wire from batt. the the starter. and it's all set.
Ed K

loggerman1959

Thanks for all the input everyone , I appreciate the wealth of knowledge this site offers .

Rural

Whilst it does not sound like the problem here there is a little trick to see if you have anything draining the battery with everything switched off. Simply take one battery connection off and hook up a small 12 volt (for a 12 volt system - or two bulbs in series for a 24 volt system) between the battery terminal and the lead you have removed. If it glows something is drawing power, the higher the draw the brighter the glow......
Or you can use a voltmeter in the same way!

ohiowoodchuck

Quote from: Ed_K on July 09, 2016, 02:09:29 PM
You only need one switch for two batts. You hook both batts. positive to positive and neg to neg,with a second wire from to negative post to the switch and another wire from switch to the frame. The second . wire from batt. the the starter. and it's all set.
Thanks for the tip sir. That's what I had in mind. Just wanted to clarify.
Education is the best defense against the media.

wannaergo

Do your batteries have separate cells with access to the fluid/water? We have had our batteries start acting weak, then we just add distilled water and they work great again.
2016 Ponsse ergo 8w
2014 Cat 564
Husky 385

danbuendgen

Doesn't your skidder have a amperage or voltage gauge? Just look at the gauges and are see if it is charging or not. If you don't have a gauge on the dash, get one. All my machines have 12.5-12.9 volts off, and 14-14.5 volts when running. I would pull out those batterys and alternator and get them tested. Most auto parts stores test batterys and alternators for free....
I would also remove and clean all battery connections. Wires, battery terminals, ground, starter post, ect. Clean it up as good as you can, and when you re-connect everything, smear on dielectric grease to keep moisture and corrosion at bay.
I have a buddy who is not that equipment handy that had the same issue. He never used his battery disconnect switch, and the batterys were draining overnight. In the morning they would be very weak or dead.
GOOD LUCK.
Husqvarna ~ TimberJack ~ Dodge Cummins

gimpy

I'm betting it's a failed battery.

Just got to say, I have far too many batteries and can't seem to keep them in good health over the winters.

Slowly, I am converting all my equipment to the big grey quick connectors and #2 Welding cable for all battery connections. I carry one "extra" well maintained 12v AGM battery and it quick connects to each piece of equipment. I'm speaking of the stuff I don't use every day. I have my float chargers on the batteries in the shop now in the winter.

PS: AGM batteries that get overly discharged and a new style battery charger won't charge it. If the battery is to low to get a charge, all you have to do is hook the low battery to a full battery with jumper cables. Let it sit for a couple of hours. Now disconnect and try to charge it again.

Old chargers would just charge. New charger do diagnostic. If the battery is too low, it won't charge it. The new Gel-Cell Technology is different.
Gimpy old man
Lucky to have a great wife
John Deere 210LE tractor w/Gannon Box

John Mc

Quote from: gimpy on July 20, 2016, 04:14:03 PM
PS: AGM batteries that get overly discharged and a new style battery charger won't charge it. If the battery is to low to get a charge, all you have to do is hook the low battery to a full battery with jumper cables. Let it sit for a couple of hours. Now disconnect and try to charge it again.

Old chargers would just charge. New charger do diagnostic. If the battery is too low, it won't charge it. The new Gel-Cell Technology is different.

Just be careful if you are connecting a full battery to a dead one with jumper cables. You can draw a whole lot more current than either battery is designed to handle. The battery being charged can boil off electrolyte, releasing hydrogen gas. Be sure to do it in a well ventilated area to minimize the risk of explosion (and minimize the damage if it does).

Some of the newer chargers with the diagnostics will still attempt to charge if the battery is low. I've got one from VDC electronics (batteryminder.com) that will try to recover a 12 volt battery that has dropped as low as 3 volts. Another alternative is to charge the dead battery with an "old-style" charger until it gets high enough to be recognized by the "smart" charger.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Thank You Sponsors!