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First cuts!

Started by JRWoodchuck, June 24, 2016, 06:57:31 PM

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JRWoodchuck

Finally got my sawmill up and running! I've only made two passes and on each of them I noticed there was quite a crown on the cut. Would that be because my blade isn't tight enough? I promise I will post a video and some pictures soon! Thanks again to everyone on this sight I wouldn't have a sawmill without you guys!
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Upper

The mill scholar's here will want to know which mill you have.I too owe my mill to this forum..
Stihl 661
Alaskan 36 CSM
36" guillotine splitter powered by a GMC V6
I like to build stuff
LT35HD Wood-Mizer

JRWoodchuck

It's a home built portable 20' long 4'ish wide with a Kubota 19hp diesel. 19" band wheels 158" Cooks blades and Cooks guides.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Magicman

My first question would be about blade tension, and the next did it duplicate with a new/different blade??
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Adirondack

I would be silly not to agree with MM, but I truly do agree, blade tension or dull/faulty blade.. Is the crown in the same spot on each of the cuts or does it alter per cut?
Was Tom Sawyer a sawyer?

YellowHammer

Also check blade alignment.  If it's not dead flat then it will try to "fly" up or down, depending on the direction it's misaligned.  Since the blade guides will constrain the band at either end, the band can crown up or down in the center of the cut. 

If the band isn't tight enough, then the crown will get worse.

Anyway, congratulations on your mill.   8)
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

JRWoodchuck

Not sure if this is how a video is suppose to be posted but it is how I figured out how. This is the second cut that I made. I've made a few more since this one and have tightened the blade and it is still crowning so the next step will be to replace the band.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aSwv2h9pfU&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Upper

Does the blade come into the guide or leave the guide at a steep pitch? And you have a toe-out condition.
Stihl 661
Alaskan 36 CSM
36" guillotine splitter powered by a GMC V6
I like to build stuff
LT35HD Wood-Mizer

JRWoodchuck

Not sure what you mean Upper. I tighten my band and then put 1/4 to 1/2 inch of downward pressure with my guides. I haven't spent a lot of time aligning them with the deck. It climbs a fair amount by the end of the cut and I assumed that was from them not being properly aligned. I was more worried about the crown. But maybe the crown is coming from them not being aligned properly. This evening Ill spend a bit more time on that when I put a fresh band on.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

fishfighter

You need to step back, read the owners manual. Then adjust everything per their specs. Start out with a new blade, then adjust as needed. Also, check your fan belts, replace if worn out and tension. These DanG mills can get way out of hand easy. And yes, no two are alike. :D

Magicman

My initial reply was for a properly adjusted sawmill.  ¼" to ½" won't get you anything but trouble. (3/16" might be OK, but not ½".)   All measurements have to be exact.  ¼" downward pressure means just that.  With adjustable blade guides, the measured distance to the sawmill bed has to be the same throughout the blade guide arm's travel.  And then the blade has to have proper tension and be absolutely parallel to the sawmill bed.


 
This is one way to insure that the blade is parallel. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

JRWoodchuck

I will dial it much better tonight. I started with a fresh blade originally but the mill dumped it a few times getting things dialed in which is what I suspect buggered it up. Ill put a new one on tonight. I would love to be able to "step back and read the owners manual" but you guys are my owners manual as my mill is homebuilt with the help of everyone here. Thanks again for everyones input!
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

fishfighter

Hey, my bust. Guess I need to reread things. Sorry.


DannyLand

From my limited experience, the blade climbing towards the end of the cut was the result of the blade guides not being perfectly parallel to the tracks.   Not the easiest thing to check on a 1.25" blade but super important.  Magicman mentioned this also in his post and as his photo shows with the straight edge and ruler.  Mine was off by the smallest amount but it would lead to some terribly wavy cuts and nonparallel boards.  I had started out fine with great cuts but after 20 or so logs, it had vibrated itself out of adjustment.   
Woodland Mills HM126, Hudson debarker, Jonsered 2171, New Holland skid steer, 1955 International Harvester Dump 132

Magicman

Good Morning DannyLand, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum.   8)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

YellowHammer

Dannyland, welcome and JR great build on the mill.  Looks nice.  It will not take long to dial it in. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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