blade coolant system?

[ray299]

Hi all, I'm finishing up my cam locks for my log holding system and about to start on the cooling system. Most I've seen are just water supply buckets with a drip hose down to the top side of the blade. I'm also reading that water wrecks some bearings... and in another post I read someone used Cook's and didn't have a problem... my questions are... what is Cook's?
And if anyone can give me do's or don'ts to a watering system, I'd appreciate it... feel free to drop a picture of your system here so I can see how pretty (or not) your build is... I would put pics in this post but I haven't figured out how to do that... but feel free to look at my album. I have several pics of my build there.

[kelLOGg]

CooksSaw uses a diesel wipe. It is not a steady flow of diesel - just a wipe.

[ray299]

CooksSaw uses a diesel wipe. It is not a steady flow of diesel - just a wipe.

I'm finding more and more bad things about using water for coolant... but I've only ever seen home made saw with water for coolant...

Does anyone here have pictures of their Cook's Saw method home made version?

[ray299]

but what happens when you have rubber tires and you put on a diesel fuel/transmission oil wipe? That wont affect the rubber?

[Magicman]

Wood-Mizer uses felt washers on both sides of their blade guides.  I have not had a problem with soapy water on their sealed bearings. 

[Kbeitz]

This is Cooks.



 

[dgdrls]

Cooks... to your left in FF supporters row,  http://www.cookssaw.com/

Its more about putting a little lube on the band more than cooling it.
Be sure your system applies lube to both sides of the band.

Best
Dan

[5quarter]

Ray...welcome. It's all about keeping your blade CLEAN. Resin and pitch in some woods will tend to cling to your blade, causing it to heat up in the cut. The blade consequently loses tension and that's when all the bad things happen. A CLEAN blade is a COOL blade, and a cool blade cuts straight. Bob (KelLOGg) has a great diesel cleaning system... he posted pics of the details some time ago but I can't seem to find them. I used his design as the basis for mine. Diesel will shorten the life of the belts, but not by much. and you will use less diesel on your wiping system than you use ATF to lube your mill. If think of it, I'll try to get a couple pics tomorrow.

[kelLOGg]

Thanks for the reference, 5Q.
My wipe system is probably overkill. I made it to assure I wouldn't get buildup on either side of the blade. Here's the link.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58022.msg843717.html#msg843717

[Chuck White]

I still use the original 1995 blade lube system that came on my mill from the factory, with the exception that last year I installed a solenoid valve to shut the lube off when I disengaged the forward feed!

I have never had an issue with any of the bearings and I use water, soap and PineSol.

The blade guide rollers on the mill now have been there for over 4 years now!

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

The lube is also a coolant and a cleaner.  It is most effective on a band or circle saw if it is applied to the region closest to the teeth, as that is the hottest.  As the metal cools, the sap or resin that might be on the blade hardens, so a good lube that cools, lubes and cleans is desirable.

[thecfarm]

I use a drip system,half bar and chain oil and half diesel. And this is the important part,
at a slow drip,and I do mean SLOW.
A drip every 2-3 seconds.
I have 2 shutoffs,one to adjust the flow and one to turn it off and on.
I only saw framing lumber,so have no idea what my lube might do if someone was building furniture.
I do have belts on my wheels and so far no problems. But I do not saw alot either. One year I never even started my mill. No building project that year.