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Started by hopm, May 23, 2016, 08:14:18 PM

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hopm

I have a small manual mill that was cutting close to perfect until last week. Tried to cut saturday and this afternoon and cannot get a straight cut. I have checked level to bunks and it is dead on. I have leveled guides. I have checked level on rails. I have changed blades. Nothing shows an issue except the cut. When I hit the end of the log the the blade is obviously under pressure and pops up when it clears the cut. There is a 3/8 to 1/2 inch variation in the cut.

The only change that has been made is a new drive belt. I can't convince myself the drive belt would have caused this. Any suggestions? Any place to start looking? I have exhausted my options and would greatly appreciate any assistance.

Tom the Sawyer

Double check the drive belt tension but the first thing I would do is replace the blade with a new, or re-sharpened, blade.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

hopm

I put a new blade on and had the same result.

Ljohnsaw

Was your blade speed consistent throughout the cut?  You mentioned a new drive belt - is it slipping?  How's your cutting speed - faster or slower than normal?  Is it just this log?  If you have another log to try, I'd do that.  What about flipping the log end-for-end?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Cazzhrdwd

Are you sawing something different from last week? Different species or old logs can do that.
96 Woodmizer LT40Super  Woodmizer 5 head moulder

hopm

New drive belt is much tighter. No slip
Same logs
Speed seems consistent

Den-Den

A couple of questions:
Does the blade run on the drive belt?  If so the belt may have a different outer profile changing the blade alignment.
Did you move (purposely or accidentally) a wheel while changing the belt?

This type of problem is usually caused by alignment problems of some type.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

hopm

Blade does ride on the drive belt
The belt I replaced was probably 8 or 9 years old and was worn much thinner than the new belt.

barbender

     What kind of mill do you have? That sounds like a tension issue. Also, check and make sure that the replacement belt has the same profile. If it's too narrow for your sheaves, the belt will slip even though it is tight. I experienced this with my Woodmizer- the triple belt on my mill had wore enough that the belt was bottoming out in the bottom of the sheave. I couldn't figure out why the belt seemed to be slipping when I had it tensioned to spec. I finally replaced it with a new belt and that took care of the problem.
Too many irons in the fire

Brad_bb

Did the new belt being a slightly different length since it's new and not stretched out, cause you to have reduced blade tension?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

kelLOGg

The blades may be new but the set could still be off. The up-pointing teeth in the log could have less set than the down-pointing teeth; that would cause a dive which would cause the blade to pop up upon exit. Just my 2 cent idea.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Kbeitz

Make sure your throttle cable did not slip.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Cedarman

In trouble shooting blade problems, it is always good to keep a blade set back that you know is cutting well.
So when sawing problems develop, you can put a blade on you trust to saw well and see if that corrects the problem. 
Hopm, once you get this problem worked out and you have a blade you trust, set it aside to help solve future problems.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

sandsawmill14

the first thing i would do is kick the log off and try another one i have had that problem before more often in pine than anything else  :) if that fixes it put the log back on from the other end and try it but some logs just wont make good lumber :-\ i have seen lumber come off off circle mills that was 3/8 or more thick in the middle and the cant over an inch thin in the middle it is the same on the ends because the dogs wont let the ends move. if that doesnt fix it put on one of your old blades that was cutting right but was a taken of because it was dull if you saw real slow with the blade that was known good but dull it will saw like you are used to seeing when its time to change blades. its not as good as having a known good blade for testing but it does give you somewhere to start :) as others have suggested when you get it figured out put up the first new blade testing problems such as this and it will pay for itself many more times than just sawing till its dull ;) also check the log real good for small nails or something that could be easy to miss i similar problems one time when i hit a nail 4-5 inches deep in a log since i had already sawed 3-4 boards of that side i didnt think to look for metal till i ruined the 3rd blade smiley_dunce
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

hopm

Problem solved....it was a simple ID-10-T error.
What are the chances of 2 bad blades back to back......3rd blade cut like it's supposed to.

Of course it was good for me to build up all the frustration while changing belts blades pulling strings checking levels etc.....but seriously there is always a silver lining and in this case all the answers that rolled in on this forum was solid gold!!!

Thank you for your help!!

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

kelLOGg

Quote from: hopm on May 24, 2016, 03:12:28 PM
Problem solved....it was a simple ID-10-T error.

Good for you. Can you explain the error? :P
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Magicman

Quote from: kelLOGg on May 25, 2016, 06:45:24 AM
Quote from: hopm on May 24, 2016, 03:12:28 PM
Problem solved....it was a simple ID-10-T error.

Good for you. Can you explain the error? :P Bob

"(pronounced eye-dee-ten-tee) Technical support shorthand used to describe a common computer error caused by a user.  An id10t error is one that the user usually will not admit responsibility for."   :D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Magicman on May 25, 2016, 08:29:19 AM
Quote from: kelLOGg on May 25, 2016, 06:45:24 AM
Quote from: hopm on May 24, 2016, 03:12:28 PM
Problem solved....it was a simple ID-10-T error.

Good for you. Can you explain the error? :P Bob

"(pronounced eye-dee-ten-tee) Technical support shorthand used to describe a common computer error caused by a user.  An id10t error is one that the user usually will not admit responsibility for."   :D

:D Worked in the computer field for 35 years and never heard that one - MM, you are a wealth of information ;)
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

dboyt

id10t... ID10T... I get it.  As in "of course it's plugged in.  What kind of idiot do you think... wait a minute... never mind."
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

sandsawmill14

 :D :D :D   glad you got it figured out :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

pineywoods

Thats a mis-print of the real definition...I D I O T   ;D
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

samandothers

PEBKAC issue.

Problem Exists Between Keys (board) And Chair.

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