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Clutch Assembly Spring, and separate idling issue

Started by jcates888, May 18, 2016, 11:00:22 AM

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jcates888

I was using my Husqvarna 240e and after having a hard time starting it (which is somewhat normal), I looked at the bottom and there was a metal spring sticking out!

A local repair shop said I'd have to buy the whole clutch assembly and said it's a complicated process to replace it. They estimated it would only take a half hour of labor, but at $75/hour, I'd like to think I could get a spring for just a few dollars and fix it myself...
Any ideas or suggestions? What caused this?

Also, the saw always shuts itself off right after cutting, might this indicate too much oil in the gas?

motohed

Chances are the broken clutch spring , may be causing your idling problem , fix that first and see how it does . You may need a clutch tool and some small , rope like starter rope to put in the spark plug , or better still a piston stop for the spark plug hole and the spring or springs to fit your saw .

Stihlowner

I think your dealer is using the word complicated so you let him do the job. {He has to eat too!!!}
Nothing complicated about it.
If I remember right can get the assembly including springs for under $10.00
I would also think your idle problem is probably the carburetor.
As far as what caused it , probably broke just from normal stress on the spring.

Savannahdan

Recently I replaced the clutch on my Makita DCS 7901.  I kept a copy of the schematics that I grabbed from one of the chainsaw parts sites so that I put everything back where it belongs.  I also took the opportunity to replace the nylon pump drive (oil), sprocket and cage (added grease to the rollers).  I first inserted small, clean rope into the cylinder and then used 2 open end wrenches to turn the clutch clockwise to loosen and remove it.  Chainsawr, FF sponsor, has a replacement clutch.  Some of the youtube videos can help you with this.
BTW, even though the nylon pump drive that was on the saw looked okay the new drive improved the oil flow.
Good luck.
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

dougand3

From what I've seen, the whole clutch assy is ~the same price as a spring. Look closely at your spur sprocket - are teeth worn enough to replace it? You may want a whole clutch/drum assy. The clutch is LH threads - CW is OFF. I've taken quite a few off with rope in cylinder, big slotted screwdriver on clutch and big whack. Kinda risky- you could bend rod. A Poulan clutch tool with 2 prongs engaging clutch and an impact wrench tapping it is the much preferred method. You don't even need to stop piston.
You can search web for "Husqvarna 240 IPL" and see your part #s.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

jcates888

I got the whole clutch assembly since I couldn't find just the spring, and thought I was doing well when I even found a youtube video of how to replace it... but evidently my husqvarna 240e doesn't have a nut to unscrew to take the old one off. It almost looks like I'd need an allen wrench, but that doesn't work either.

dougand3

No, you need a "husqvarna clutch tool"  (Poulan clutch tool is the same) to remove it properly. Search interweb and look at it. 2 prongs fit in clutch slots and spin it off clockwise.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

joe_indi

If you have a smooth end punch and a small hammer you could save yourself of buying a clutch removal tool.
First remove the spark plug. insert a screwdriver into the hole and feel the exhaust port from inside. Turn the clutch clockwise till the piston touches the screwdriver, keep turning the clutch it the screwdriver hits the top end of the exhaust port.
Remove the screwdriver and turn the clutch just enough to close the exhaust port.
Use enough starter rope (clothesline) to block the piston and prevent the clutch from turning much further.
Oil the visible thread or the center of the bit of crankshaft in the center of the clutch.
Oil also the center portion behind the clutch.
Use a hot air gun or in a pinch, a hair dryer to heat the oiled area till the oil starts smoking shows tiny bubbles at the threads, an indication that the area is heated.
Now, smartly tap the rear of a clutch shoe to force the clutch in a clockwise direction. Repeat this on the other shoe also. The clutch should come loose off its thread. Unscrew it out (clockwise) to remove it.
To re-assemble, first have the starter cover off. because the pawls will engage when you rotate the crankshaft  in the opposite direction.
Clean the tread of the crankshaft, apply a bit of thread lock at the outer end of the thread on the clutch, rotate it anticlockwise till it reaches it seat. The crankshaft might rotate, but will stop once the piston hits that rope in the reverse direction.
Tap the clutch with the punch from the opposite side once or twice to tighten it.
Put back all the stuff you removed (starter, spark plug, filter cover, guide bar and chain) and thats about it.
Warning: In case you hit that old clutch the wrong way, it might crack.

farmguy

When you put the clutch back on grease the bearing on the drum and you don't have to beat it back on. I just do two light taps then it will self tighten as you use it

ZeroJunk

Hey Joe, you sure you don't have your tap points backwards ?

You can also take a pair of channel locks opened to the right width, clamp down on the center grooves, and then put an adjustable wrench around those.

joe_indi

Quote from: ZeroJunk on June 29, 2016, 02:31:57 AM
Hey Joe, you sure you don't have your tap points backwards?
No. That is an inboard clutch. The only online picture I could get was of a parts list and this picture was a view from the engine outwards. A bit confusing I agree that was why I repeated the directions (clockwise to unscrew and anticlockwise to tighten)

motohed

Quote from: joe_indi on June 29, 2016, 03:01:48 AM
Quote from: ZeroJunk on June 29, 2016, 02:31:57 AM
Hey Joe, you sure you don't have your tap points backwards?
No. That is an inboard clutch. The only online picture I could get was of a parts list and this picture was a view from the engine outwards. A bit confusing I agree that was why I repeated the directions (clockwise to unscrew and anticlockwise to tighten)

It really does'nt matter if it's inboard or the clutch is outboard , the sequince is the same basicly .

HuckFin

Instead of using the rope method to hold the crankshaft from turning I leave the sparkplug in and use a small impact driver. Works for me every time.

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