Greenhorn Chain querie 550xp

[C-Daly]

Hi All,

My first post.

Nearly 3 years ago I developed an itch which resulted in a brand new 550xp arriving on my doorstep with both 15" and 18" bars and 2 chains for each.(Husqvarna .325 0.58 gauge H25). Having never owned a chainsaw and only ran one a couple of times previously, I looked to this site/Internet in general for advise on a compact but powerful saw. I have not been disappointed thus far with my purchase. I have self educated myself as much as possible re safety/felling techniques/saw maintenance etc and "touch wood" I have all limbs still attached. I am the type of person who would rather do without than settle for something inferior hence a brand new/professional model saw as a first(and hopefully only, but highly doubt it-Bigger itch starting to develop!!) time saw buyer. Correct sharpening by hand was something I was determined to master and from help from yourselves as well as endless hours of Youtube instructionals, I am at a stage where I understand the basic principles and can sharpen sufficiently to throw good chips and in a straight line too. smiley_hollywood_cool 

Anyway, all that leads up to my question regarding chain types suitable for my saw. I am at the stage now where my chains need replacing again and previous topics regarding speed of cut/personal preferences to chain types have got my inner demon going again(not wanting to settle for second best). From reading up on different chain types the chain I currently use .325 0.58 has reduced kickback features etc. but having read some of the posts on here Im wondering is there a better/faster alternative? I mainly use the 15" bar as I just find it easier to maneuver the saw. All of my sawing is for firewood for my stove. The wood Im cutting consists mainly of standing ash/beech which might be a factor.

I would if at all possible like to keep my existing bars as a lot of the recommended chains mentioned in previous posts are 0.50 gauge and don't seen to be available in 0.58?

Thanking you in advance,

C.

[DelawhereJoe]

Looking around online the H25 is 16" 66 drive links, and the H21 is 15" 64 drive links. Both you can get in full chisel non-saftey chain, full chisel chain will cut faster but will dull faster in dirty wood . I use baileysonline.com website for all my cross referencing for bars and chains, the site can be annoying at times to run around on but it works.

[SawTroll]

Looking around online the H25 is 16" 66 drive links, and the H21 is 15" 64 drive links. ....

No, those designations has nothing to do with the number of drive links, it is about different chain models.

H25 = Oregon 21BPX and semi-chisel, low-kickback ("green") chain.

H21 = Oregon 21LPX and chisel chain, NOT low-kickback ("yellow") chain.

H21/21LPX is the very best .325 chain out there for reasonably clean wood, H25/21BPX is a good semi-chisel option, despite the "green" classification. 

[motohed]

If you can find a supplier that sells the old oregon 34LG chain , that is the best you can buy . There are no gard links of any kind , it is .325 pitch 0.58 guage .  You will have to search for it , I think I still have some from my sawshop before I retired from it .

[motohed]

I seen some on ebay , but I can't remember the driver count , you could check .

[HolmenTree]

I'd put my 2 cents in but the OP so far only has one post

[C-Daly]

Hi,

Thank you to all who have offered their assistance so far, it is much appreciated.

SawTroll stated that "H21/21LPX is the very best .325 chain out there for reasonably clean wood." Are these identical chains just branded differently??

Will I have much of an adjustment to make when it comes to sharpening full chisel as apposed to semi?

Thanks again,

C.


Posted by: HolmenTree
« on: Today at 12:41:22 am »
Insert Quote



I'd put my 2 cents in but the OP so far only has one post

You base your decision to give advise on the amounts of posts I have??

[HolmenTree]

You base your decision to give advise on the amounts of posts I have??

Exactly, here we had many trolls that post only once starting a thread that would go on for multiple pages and not even so much of offering a thank you from them.

But seeing your #2 now. :D
My advice is the best .325 chain on the  market is the Stihl 23RS chain.  If your in dirty wood then run 23RM micro chisel.
I use 23RS in every kind of wood. Much easier to file as you have a better view of the working corner then semi chisel.Use 3/16" Stihl file and their 2 in 1 filing guide with the sturdy built in flat file.One of the best setups I've seen so far.

[C-Daly]

Exactly, we had many trolls that post only once starting a thread here that would go on for multiple pages and not even so much of a thank you from them.

Not my style HolmenTree. My mother taught me manners. . . The old school way!!!

As I said in first post, I have predominantly used this site for info on my saw, I firmly believe people actually using this equipment everyday are the most knowledgeable, and I do appreciate when people take the time to help the less knowledgable.

You have recommended this chain on a number of similar topics and I have previously looked for it. It was one of the chains recommended that I found hard to find in 0.58 gauge. I am from Ireland by the way which might be a factor for this issue as I do not have the luxury of the long list of suppliers on the left.

Thanks again  ;)

C.

[rburg]

The H chain is Husqvarna and the 21lpx is oregon. Stihl makes their chain in .058, but you would probably have to order it.

[HolmenTree]

Not my style HolmenTree. My mother taught me manners. . . The old school way!!!

C.

Well my mother's decendents came from Monaghan County, Northern Ireland and she taught me good manners by saying "thankyou " for any good help any person offers you and not be a sponge taking offered help for granted.

[C-Daly]

1st Post "Thanking you in advance"
2nd Post "Thank you to all who have offered their assistance so far, it is much appreciated"   "Thanks again"
3rd Post  "I do appreciate when people take the time to help the less knowledgable"   "Thanks again"

Is this not sufficient??

[sawguy21]

OK OK!! Let's not start a spitting match. Stihl has .325 x .058 as 25RSC or RMC but they don't offer it with their saws at least here in North America so few dealers stock it unless they service other brands.

[C-Daly]

Thanks, that makes sense Sawguy, whenever I searched for 23RS all I could find was 0.50 gauge which I believe is 1.3mm. 25RS brings up 0.58 which equates to 1.5mm. From a quick search you are correct about dealers not stocking it, even the large scale suppliers that you have in the US, and believe me, if the likes of baileys etc don't stock it there isn't a hope in hell of any of the dealers local to me having it sitting on their shelves.😥 Another lesson learned for me though.

[SawTroll]

If you can find a supplier that sells the old oregon 34LG chain , that is the best you can buy . There are no gard links of any kind , it is .325 pitch 0.58 guage .  You will have to search for it , I think I still have some from my sawshop before I retired from it .

If you like that chain, remember to get some 4.5mm (11/64") files as well, as it has low profile cutters.

No separate "guard links" (or more relevant, ramps) - but the very large and ramped rakers are that way for the same purpose. The same is the case with Stihl RS and RM, btw.

The main reason it is discontinued is that 21LP(X) is a better performing chain.

[SawTroll]

SawTroll stated that "H21/21LPX is the very best .325 chain out there for reasonably clean wood." Are these identical chains just branded differently??

Yes.

Will I have much of an adjustment to make when it comes to sharpening full chisel as apposed to semi?

No, not really. The recommended top plate angle may be different, but you really do as you want with that anyway, and what works best will vary with the wood.

I mostly use 30 degrees on both (recommended is 25, at least on LP/LPX). I don't remember what is recommended for BP/BPX, but 30 works fine (I very rarely use semi-chisel).



Btw, use the quote button when you want to quote someone.  ;)

[SawTroll]

OK OK!! Let's not start a spitting match. Stihl has .325 x .058 as 25RSC or RMC but they don't offer it with their saws at least here in North America so few dealers stock it unless they service other brands.

It is about the same here, unless it is about 13 or 15" loops in .325. The standard gauge for those are .058 here, also with Stihl. Other loops in .058 have to be ordered, at least where I have looked.

[Jeff]

Topic has been sanitized and restored.

[C-Daly]

Thanks Jeff.

SawTroll stated that "H21/21LPX is the very best .325 chain out there for reasonably clean wood." Are these identical chains just branded differently??

Yes.

Will I have much of an adjustment to make when it comes to sharpening full chisel as apposed to semi?

No, not really. The recommended top plate angle may be different, but you really do as you want with that anyway, and what works best will vary with the wood.

I mostly use 30 degrees on both (recommended is 25, at least on LP/LPX). I don't remember what is recommended for BP/BPX, but 30 works fine (I very rarely use semi-chisel).



Btw, use the quote button when you want to quote someone.  ;)

Thanks SawTroll for both advice on sharpening and the quote button! ;)

C.

[SawTroll]

Yeah - but you still have a bit to learn about the "quote" thingy - eventually it will get perfect....

[49er]

Welcome to the site C-Daly.
I have tried most all the popular chains on my Jonsered2253 (50cc) and my favorite is Oregon BPX. I run more of it than any other. 18inch bar is what I prefer.

[SawTroll]

Welcome to the site C-Daly.
I have tried most all the popular chains on my Jonsered2253 (50cc) and my favorite is Oregon BPX. I run more of it than any other. 18inch bar is what I prefer.

Is there a specific reason that you don't use chisel chain?

[49er]

This BPX is just so smooth and fast. I don't think chisel is faster. The cutters are kind of a cross between chisel and semi chisel. It just seems like a good balance.

[SawTroll]

This BPX is just so smooth and fast. I don't think chisel is faster. The cutters are kind of a cross between chisel and semi chisel. It just seems like a good balance.

It isn't a "cross", it is pure semi-chisel even though the rounded corner is a bit narrower than on some other semi-chisels.

LPX is faster as long as it is sharp, no doubt about that - but if it matters to you is a different question.

[49er]

This BPX is just so smooth and fast. I don't think chisel is faster. The cutters are kind of a cross between chisel and semi chisel. It just seems like a good balance.

It isn't a "cross", it is pure semi-chisel even though the rounded corner is a bit narrower than on some other semi-chisels.

LPX is faster as long as it is sharp, no doubt about that - but if it matters to you is a different question.

Fast is not the only criteria.

[SawTroll]

This BPX is just so smooth and fast. I don't think chisel is faster. The cutters are kind of a cross between chisel and semi chisel. It just seems like a good balance.

It isn't a "cross", it is pure semi-chisel even though the rounded corner is a bit narrower than on some other semi-chisels.

LPX is faster as long as it is sharp, no doubt about that - but if it matters to you is a different question.

Fast is not the only criteria.

No, it isn't - and each to his own.   

I see no reason to use semi-chisel though, unless the wood is "dirty".

[C-Daly]

Welcome to the site C-Daly.
I have tried most all the popular chains on my Jonsered2253 (50cc) and my favorite is Oregon BPX. I run more of it than any other. 18inch bar is what I prefer.

Thanks for your post 49er,

You recommend BPX but Sawtroll stated H25(what I am currently running) is the equivalent of Oregon BPX. So stick with what I have??

In regards to how "dirty" the wood I am cutting, it is as clean as it will get with the exception of having barbed wire embedded about 8/10 feet up the stump on occasion.   >:(

[49er]

Welcome to the site C-Daly.
I have tried most all the popular chains on my Jonsered2253 (50cc) and my favorite is Oregon BPX. I run more of it than any other. 18inch bar is what I prefer.

In regards to how "dirty" the wood I am cutting, it is as clean as it will get with the exception of having barbed wire embedded about 8/10 feet up the stump on occasion.   >:(

Barbed wire 8/10 feet high? Why so high, to keep the prisoners in?

[C-Daly]

Welcome to the site C-Daly.
I have tried most all the popular chains on my Jonsered2253 (50cc) and my favorite is Oregon BPX. I run more of it than any other. 18inch bar is what I prefer.

In regards to how "dirty" the wood I am cutting, it is as clean as it will get with the exception of having barbed wire embedded about 8/10 feet up the stump on occasion.   >:(

Barbed wire 8/10 feet high? Why so high, to keep the prisoners in?

No idea why it was so high up. Boundary line on a farm, so obviously fencing from a long long time ago. Tree had completely grown around it.

Needless to say my chain was in some order before I realized what was going on! :-[

[SawTroll]

Thanks for your post 49er,

You recommend BPX but Sawtroll stated H25(what I am currently running) is the equivalent of Oregon BPX. So stick with what I have??

In regards to how "dirty" the wood I am cutting, it is as clean as it will get with the exception of having barbed wire embedded about 8/10 feet up the stump on occasion.   >:(

Yes, H25 = 21BPX currently. Some years back in time H25 was 21BP though (the chain that was replaced by BPX).

If your wood is clean, I maintain that H21/21LPX is a better alternative - but each to his own.

[snowshoveler]

Went to an Oregon update school a month ago (I am small engine service guy)
Oregon rep discussed a new semi chisel chain that will be released soon.
It is 10 % faster cutting than anyone's .325 chain regardless of tooth design.
The less vibration thing is a big issue for a lot of my customers now.
They buy a lot of the .325 bp chain.
I am now understanding that if you can cut half a cord of wood and your played out with full chisel chain. Some folks can cut a cord or maybe 2 using the bp chain.
I have known these folks for upwards of 15 years so I kind of trust them and they trust me.
They are also using the 550 and 543 Husky saws so power should not be a problem.
Regards Chris

[HolmenTree]

Husqvarna is just getting into making their own chain.  Heard Oregon's stocks dropped because of the announcement.

[farmguy]

My new rancher 460 has a husky chain. Not impressed. So far I have been cutting popler dry pine and brush and I'm allready down to 3/4 life left. On my sthil ms 290 I always used sthil chain. Real good stuff holds a edge and is razor sharp with a dremal sharpener

[SawTroll]

Husqvarna is just getting into making their own chain.  Heard Oregon's stocks dropped because of the announcement.

It really should have happened last year, but I still haven't seen any indiocation of it actually happening.

Rumors from Sweden tells me they aren't going to replace all Oregon model (particularly not the excellent LPX) - but it remains to be seen what actually happens.

If I had to guess  ;D, I find it likely that they start with replacing what they sell most of on the home market, namely H30 (95VPX) and H25 (25BPX).

Then again, I may be totally wrong..... 8)

[C-Daly]

Hi All,

Thank you to everyone who has offered advice. Without sites like this I would be lost when it comes to getting information.

I think I will bite the bullet and go with the H21/21LPX. It seems to be easily available (online) but at least I know I can get it.

Husqvarna is just getting into making their own chain.  Heard Oregon's stocks dropped because of the announcement.

Why have Husqvarna never ventured into making their own chain up until now?

C.

[sawguy21]

Patents and cost. Blount (Oregon) developed the modern chain and are the world leaders in production. The saw manufacturers couldn't produce it for the cost although Stihl being Stihl had to reinvent the wheel. : The problem now is Oregon can't meet demand so Husqvarna is going on their own to fill their needs.
I find SawTroll's comment regarding H30 and H25 interesting. We sold some 95VPX with consumer saws although many old time dealers refused, they wanted 21LPX. The customers didn't know the difference. I have never seen 25BPX, different markets.

[SawTroll]

Patents and cost. Blount (Oregon) developed the modern chain and are the world leaders in production. The saw manufacturers couldn't produce it for the cost although Stihl being Stihl had to reinvent the wheel. : The problem now is Oregon can't meet demand so Husqvarna is going on their own to fill their needs.
I find SawTroll's comment regarding H30 and H25 interesting. We sold some 95VPX with consumer saws although many old time dealers refused, they wanted 21LPX. The customers didn't know the difference. I have never seen 25BPX, different markets.

H30 and H25 are popular here mostly because it is what Husky, Jonsered and most of their dealers are "pushing" - likely because it is "green" chain (and well suited for delimbing spruce with lots of small dry twig limbs on them, as it is semi chisel).

[Al_Smith]

Everyone has an opinion .Mine reqarding chain is I use chisel .With the dead ash I've been cutting which is hard as a rock,

file every tank full .Big deal it takes 5 minutes to dress a 20" loop .

I'd have to see it believe it that semi chisel will cut like chisel .

[SawTroll]

Everyone has an opinion .Mine reqarding chain is I use chisel .With the dead ash I've been cutting which is hard as a rock,

file every tank full .Big deal it takes 5 minutes to dress a 20" loop .

I'd have to see it believe it that semi chisel will cut like chisel .

I totally agree - it simply isn't, unless we are talking about dull chisel.

[sandsawmill14]

i dont know about the 550 but on the older 353 you could change the drive sprocket to run the 3/8 chain instead of .325  ;D with a short bar in pine it was fast  ;D hardwood it was good but you had to give it a little more time i changed it so i only had to keep 1 kind of chain for all my saws
be certain you are ready far as experience with the saw before you step away from the green chain you WILL get some severe kickback from the saw until you get used to running the yellow chisel chain even with a saw small as the 550  good luck and be safe

[HolmenTree]

Full 3/8" chain on a little Husky 353 is way too much chain. Poor little guy will work itself to death. Unless you're talking about putting  a 3/8 Picco on it.

All this alk about severe kickback from green to yellow chain gets blown out of proportion most times.
It's all in how you sharpen them.

[sandsawmill14]

but if you knew enough to know how to sharpen to reduce kickback you most likely would not be asking which chain to get ;D shape of bar tip has alot to do with it to i got the wrong one for my 441 last time and it is alot worse to kickback than the old one :-\ 
c-daly google chainsaw kickback and click on images

[HolmenTree]

Can you post a pic of that high kickback and lower kickback tips you have and had on your 441? Or count the sprocket teeth on them for us.
Only thing I think is you had was a 13 tooth ES then went to a smaller standard 11 tooth ES.

Here's a true low kickback energy small radius safety tip for full yellow bars....... a 9 tooth 3/8" Oregon Double Guard PowerMatch.

Operators used to filing a less aggresive green chain to make it more aggressive by adding more side plate hook angle and lowering the depth gauges below spec. Then filing that way on a yellow chain can be very dangerous. ..

 

[SawTroll]

i dont know about the 550 but on the older 353 you could change the drive sprocket to run the 3/8 chain instead of .325  ;D with a short bar in pine it was fast  ;D hardwood it was good but you had to give it a little more time i changed it so i only had to keep 1 kind of chain for all my saws
be certain you are ready far as experience with the saw before you step away from the green chain you WILL get some severe kickback from the saw until you get used to running the yellow chisel chain even with a saw small as the 550  good luck and be safe

You can on the 550 as well, and on that one it is much more likely that it is a good option than on the 353. However, it still is unlikely that it is the best option.

[snowshoveler]

Hi SawTroll and HolmenTree old buddy.
The 3/8 is not the best choice but its a lot easier for the older folks to sharpen because the teeth are bigger and they can see them better. When you get old and crusty you will understand ha ha.
I have a few customers with 562 and 372 Huskies that are use for surveying. They have added the 550 with the 3/8 chain so they don't have to carry extra chains and files on the longer lines.
They tell me for the smaller brush the 550 is awesome. They keep the 562 handy at all times and only bring out the 372 when involved with larger nasty stuff.
Regards Chris

[HolmenTree]

I get your point Chris. Good to hear from you again 
550XP  can handle a full size 3/8 chain if you're not in a rush.
But the poor little 353 :D

[sandsawmill14]

holmen you are probably about it being the size of the sprocket end the new one is bigger than the old one i will try  to take the bar off tomorrow and lay the old one on top and get a pic   i just went in the saw shop and picked up the first 24" bar on the wall and told them to cut me 2 chains never even looked at the bar or numbers :

the little 353 did ok with the 3/8 chain and 18" bar but i was cutting syp pulp nothing over 12" and most was around 8".  anything bigger i used the 038 and would trim and top with the 353

[Spike60]

Well, I'm entering the "old and crusty" category myself, but I much prefer .325 on saws in the 550 class. I know this debate will go on forever, with some valid opinions on either side. But there are a couple laws of physics here that are not subject to opinion.

The 3/8 7 pin sprocket is a larger diameter than the .325/7. Really about the same as a .325/8. So right there, you are getting some additional speed, at the expense of some torque. Same idea as going from a 7 to an 8 pin on 3/8. Plus, the 3/8 has a wider kerf than the .325, which also requires more power. So, you are introducing 2 variables when switching a 50cc saw to 3/8, both of which affect performance.

My personal opinion is that .325/8 is the best combo to run on the better 50cc saws. But just like going from a 7 to an 8 on a 372 or whatever, you need a little lighter touch when cutting. Not easy for most of us, cause as power junkies, we all have a tendency to lean on the saw to see what it can do.

Chris is correct about two things. One, regardless of age, some guys that are only used to filing 3/8 will struggle filing .325. And while 3/8 cutters are all very similar, there are more variations with .325 cutters. Two, is that in situations with multiple saws, switching the one odd saw to run the same chain as the rest makes life easier for some guys. So there are situations where running 3/8 on a small saw works out fine. I'm not implying that 3/8 on a 50cc saw doesn't work. 

[49er]

Very good summary Spike. My Wicked Work Saw 2253 I got from tlandrum does not take a light hand with Oregon BPX and 8pin on an 18 inch bar. I really like BPX especially when I cut in the river bottoms. The BPX is not far behind LPX ,in speed, so I just don't mess with LPX.