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Going to look at a 440b this weekend.

Started by ohiowoodchuck, May 11, 2016, 09:32:20 PM

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ohiowoodchuck

As the title says, I'm going to look at a 440b this weekend. Is there anything to check or certain places to look for cracks anywhere. I think I got the usual check for leaks, check center pins, check winch, check engine for leaks blown headgasket ease of starting etc. it's a standard shift also.
Education is the best defense against the media.

Grandpa

Every one I've seen had the frame broken across the top flange where the cutout is for the front axle. Check the patch to see if it looks good.
Also, the front axle pivot isn't the greatest, pick the machine up with the blade and watch the axle. If there is more than about 1/8 inch slop the pin may be worn through the bushing and into the steel. That is fixable but can be a lot of work depending on your shop facilities.
Good luck!

Decked

what Gramp said X 2. I had a 540A with the same problems. Frame cracked around the front axle.And hyd. leaks all over the thing. It had a GREAT engine tho...that ol' 6 cyl. would lug and PULL , I had a hell of a time when I bought a new D model, I bet I stalled that thing 100 times getting used to it.

ohiowoodchuck

Thanks for the tips guys is there anything else to be aware of on these ol girls. I'd really like to have a ol jack, but I haven't found anything in a three state area.
Education is the best defense against the media.

CX3

My first skidder was an A that someone put a turbo engine in. Loved it. Don't overcrowd it it's not a pulling truck. And I was pretty sure some mornings that thing made its own fuel. Lol
John 3:16
You Better Believe It!

thenorthman

The frame will most likely be cracked, but make sure the welds look solid, the blade will probably be cracked too.

Pretty much everything else is fixable, though the fair leads can be tough to replace.

well that didn't work

motohed

Just wondering what the 440B looked like . I have one thats almost completely restored , it was one of the few that had an esco grapple attached .     8)

ohiowoodchuck

It looked really good. I didn't find and cracks or anything on it. It's a 77 model. The guy is the second owner, bought is used in 1980 for 44,000 he said. He has health issues and can't cut anymore. The only problem I can find is no gears work when it's shifted in the high side. Every gear works on the low side and gears work in reverse. Anybody got any ideas. Is it in the tranny or transfercase. He is asking 10k firm on it, it does need batteries also. Motor, clutch, and winch have all been throw about 800 hours ago. It did have a couple small leaks and the packing is seeping on the steer cylinder ends. That's all I could find wrong. Do I pick it up or walk away.
Education is the best defense against the media.

thenorthman

No transfer case on a Deere, its all transmission... Sounds like the high gear is toast, possibly linkage or shift fork issues, most like the gear is toast, not supposed to pull anything in High and ya get monkeys that will...
well that didn't work

ohiowoodchuck

Is it hard and costly to fix. Can I just use it in low and not hurt anything. For what I need it for I'm not in a hurry to do anything or be anywhere at any certain time. It also comes with all the manuals.
Education is the best defense against the media.

Grandpa

Around here that would be a good price if it is as good as it sounds.

No high range is pretty common and is usually the synchronizers although anything is possible. Synchos don't cost much but I think it took me a week to put mine in and I taught the dog a few new words. :'(

The transmission and transfer case are all in one box.

No, it wont hurt anything to use it in low range, some guys did that for quite a while.



ohiowoodchuck

I looked at it for two hours, it idled for 30 And I ran it for 30 minutes. I'm not a equipment expert, but I've been in the mechanical maintenance field for 17 years now. I checked everything I could think of plus what you guys mentioned. The motor is strong in it. Everything worked on it except high. It was ice cold on the motor and he put a battery charger on it turned the key hit the button and came right to life. He said he hasn't used it much in the last three years and it needs to be out in the woods. The blade would lift the front up no problem. So do I buy or pass.
Education is the best defense against the media.

thenorthman

Low is fine, synchro range (psycho rage) has 4 speeds to choose from, babys crawl faster/still to slow to do anything, this will move some wood/mildly entertaining, now where logging/wheres the seat belt (whatdaya mean there's no seat belt!), only for the little logs/probably going to get arrested for reckless driving
well that didn't work

ohiowoodchuck

I understand what you mean about where logging is at now. I need to clear 8 acres for a food plot do some tsi work on other parts of my property, plus my buddy wants to clear cut 30 acres for his cattle and hay fields. I think this will do the job just fine. I could probably fix the trans a couple leaks and make money when I'm done with it.
Education is the best defense against the media.

redprospector

Mine is a 73 model, but still the same sincro range transmission. The tranny on mine was in pieces when I got it, and the owner had died 5 years before. His widow said to get everything that even looked like a John Deere Part.  :D The engine hadn't been started in those 5 years either but once I got her primed up with fresh fuel, she fired off. When I put the tranny back together it was doing the same thing you described. I had John Deere rebuild the top shaft and put a new fork in for about $2000.00 (2005 dollars), and she hasn't missed a beat since. Well, I've done a lot of other work on her since then, but that's just maintenance...or the lack thereof.  :D

So maybe that'll give you an idea of what you could have in it, if you fix the transmission. Should you buy it, or walk away? That's a question you'll have to answer for yourself I think. Would you give $12,000 for it if the transmission worked in high range? Would you do the work on the transmission yourself? If not, would you give $15,000 for it working? Because that may be what you have in it when your done.

If it helps any...I have no regrets about any money I've spent on my 440b.  ;D
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

ohiowoodchuck

I don't think I'm scared of it, I would fix it myself of course. It's just hard for me to find something decent for the budget I have. I think it will work nicely and I can use the money from the trees I sell to help with repairs.
Education is the best defense against the media.

redprospector

1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

ohiowoodchuck

Hard to get steak on a spam and cracker budget.  :D
Education is the best defense against the media.

coxy


motohed

I'm thinking , go for it the parts are available , it might be cheaper to find a transmission in good shape . I like mine , I think the parts on my trans were under a grand , pretty strait forward fix with the repair manual . RN Johnson in NH is a good place to get them , The parts guy there found me everything new for mine ,

ohiowoodchuck

Thanks for the help guys. There is to many of those skidders out there to not find parts for it. I looked on John Deere parts.com today and it's all gears, shaft, bearings and syncro's can't be to much to it. I will call the guy tonight and tell him I want to pick it up this weekend
Education is the best defense against the media.

H.O.D.

Good Luck with the 440B..lots to consider. I looked at a 440D this weekend and was surprised when turning how much scrubbing there was in the rear tires because of the solid axel rear end. Something I wasnt exspecting...must put huge stress on gears. This guy suggested I drive a 540D..nearly the same machine but with rear differential and Power Shift..lots more $.

grassfed

Quotesurprised when turning how much scrubbing there was in the rear tires because of the solid axle rear end
Yes that is a good point.

I think that some of the early powershift 440 models had front and rear difs with locks. The syncro shifts are all solid rear.

Someday I want to look at putting a differential in the rear of my machine.

For now I don't run chains on the back in summer and I try to avoid full articulation turns as much as possible. It does not scrub too bad unless you have the steering all the way to the lock.

If you forget and leave the front locked you will find it very hard to turn.
Mike

ohiowoodchuck

I'm a manual everything guy myself. Lot less stuff to go wrong imo.
Education is the best defense against the media.

Decked

Quote from: grassfed on May 16, 2016, 01:35:36 PM
Quotesurprised when turning how much scrubbing there was in the rear tires because of the solid axle rear end
Yes that is a good point.

I think that some of the early powershift 440 models had front and rear difs with locks. The syncro shifts are all solid rear.

Someday I want to look at putting a differential in the rear of my machine.

For now I don't run chains on the back in summer and I try to avoid full articulation turns as much as possible. It does not scrub too bad unless you have the steering all the way to the lock.

If you forget and leave the front locked you will find it very hard to turn.


The 540D was deere's finest moment....

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