Chainsaw sharpener

[Hale87]

In your opinion (not including yourself) what's the best "low end" chainsaw sharpener that would cost a 100 or less? There's a lot of them in that range but I'm quite sure some are much better than others. I need to run a 3/16s grinding wheel.

Thanks for your help.

[old guy]

It's called a file.

    John

[Hale87]

Thought I had that covered with...
"(Not including yourself)".   😊

[sawguy21]

 :D Truth be told, there is no such thing as a "best low end" chain grinder. They are difficult at best to adjust properly, they are slow and don't last. A quality file used in conjunction with the Carlton File O Plate or Husky roller guide and some practice will give far superior results.

[Hale87]

My problem with sharpening by hand is that it starts to creep to the right after I sharpen it 3 or 4 times. Do you think that's an inconsistent angle or do you think it would be a file isn't always level kind of thing?

[Gary_C]

Timberline Sharpener

A little more than a hundred but a nice precision sharpener. My brother had one but we sold it with his estate. Needs no electricity and sharpens right on the bar. Very well made.

[LeeB]

If you saw cut is creeping to one side or the other you aren't filing both sides consistently. The teeth on one side are longer than the other.

[Hilltop366]

Search for "Oregon Chainsaw Filing Guide" low cost fairly accurate, no need to use it every time just after a few sharpenings to get things trued up again.

[Hale87]

If you saw cut is creeping to one side or the other you aren't filing both sides consistently. The teeth on one side are longer than the other.

Rut Row, I never knew they had to be the same length. I always filed each tooth individually until it was sharp then moved on.

Thanks!!

[Walt]

I've got a Harbor Freight, a Granberg bar mount 12 volt, a box of files and typical file guides. If I really nail it bad on rocks or the likes of I cut it back to good corners with the Harbor freight. If I am cutting and need to dress the chain I hand file. If its noticeably dull after several hand filings I use the Granberg which maybe the best for me overall without removing the chain. I hand file depth gauges.
No best really, it depends and I know this makes no sense but its what I do. Regards Walt

[Ianab]

Rut Row, I never knew they had to be the same length. I always filed each tooth individually until it was sharp then moved on.

Having some random cutters a bit uneven isn't the end of the world, but if one side is consistently longer, it will cut better than the shorter side, and so you tend to saw in a curve. This can happen if you hit a rock or nail on one side of the chain, and have to file / grind a lot of metal away on just one side. If that happens, grind away the other side to match.

Also if hand filing, some people are better in one direction, and consistently take more material off one side. By the time the chain is 1/2 worn down, there is enough difference to notice. Again if you notice this happening, just give the long side a bit more attention. Some folks get into the habit of 3 stokes on their "good" side, and 4 of the 'off" side to keep things even.

But a few random shorter cutters on the chain isn't a big deal. Just those particular teeth might not be pulling their weight quite as well as they should.

[motohed]

Hale87 , you learn something new everyday , put it to mind , and it will defiately make your life easyer , don't forget to file the rakers , with a guide plate of some kind . Carlton made a few good ones back it the day j, ust make sure it's right for the saw you are using , Husky also make a fine filing unit for angle and depth gauges .

[motohed]

I also tend to file my rakers a little more than most , don't do it if your not light at hand with your saw , pushing is'nt an option . Be aware that it is a dangerous practice , for the unexperienced sawyer . I will take no liabilty for said practice .

[motohed]

I also run skip chain on 28" bars on a 70cc saw . regular full chisel at 28" for 88cc and above . Just  an FYI .

[thecfarm]

I do as Ianab said,another stroke or two when the saw is on the right works for me. Took me quite a few chains to realize what I was doing wrong. Finally I got frustrated and just took a log and a file and started cutting and filing. Finally I got it!! Been doing it for 30 years this way. The saw will draw itself into the wood. I have cut down trees bigger than 3 feet across. I must be doing something right.

[John Mc]

It's not necessary to file all cutters to the same length IF you are using the right kind of depth gauge tool to set your raker heights. See this thread for a description.

[motohed]

X2 thecfarm , You are correct . I was just adding a little info for the guys that are having a problem . I don't think there are any options other than a good filing job , but some will benifit for a filing gauge , too help them along . I do grind chain ocasionaly when they hit a stone or nail and need more service to bring them back . I would rather change a chain and get back to cutting then spend the time too bring them back with a file in the field . JMHO

[motohed]

John MC , if the chain is of a big different length from short to long , they will still not cut a strait line . it will be mininamal , but but they will wear the bar rail unlevel over time , hench they will wear the bar prematurely .

[motohed]

Another hint , it's a good idea to file the curf on the bar edges every once in a while . It will help the saw move through the wood easyer . you will feel a very sharp edge on the bar when it needs to be done . Many times if the edge is't file off the bar it will drag in the cut . Just an FYI .

[John Mc]

John MC , if the chain is of a big different length from short to long , they will still not cut a strait line . it will be mininamal , but but they will wear the bar rail unlevel over time , hench they will wear the bar prematurely .

IF it's a BIG different length, yes, that's true. However, if you used the depth gauge tools mentioned in the other thread, you can tolerate quite a bit of difference in the lengths of the cutters. What matters is not how long the cutters are, it's how big a bite of the wood each cutter is taking. If one side is taking bigger bites than the other, the saw will tend to curve (and the bar rails will tend to wear unevenly, contributing to an even worse problem with not cutting straight). One way of assuring that each cutter takes the same size bite is to file them all the exactly the same length, then use the type of depth gauge tool that bridges over two or more teeth to set the raker height. Another way is to accept some variation in length, and use a depth gauge tool that sets each raker in relation only to the height of the cutter than follows it.

I've been using the latter method for more than 10 years, and have no problems with any of my saws cutting in a curve, even when there is an easily visible difference in the left and right cutter lengths. Either method works, if done correctly, but filing all the cutters to exactly the same length is just one way of accomplishing the job. It's definitely not the only way.

[Hale87]

Thanks for the help with your comments.

Maybe you already answered this,,,,,,
(I'm a little confused at this point)
Sometimes after sharpening a chain a number of times my filings gets deeper (lower) in some of the teeth. So I'm wondering what that consequences of that are?

I run a 562xp with 20" bar and a full chisel tooth chain, but that's about all I know about the chains.

[John Mc]

Hale87 - going too deep with the file will put more hook in the tip of the cutter. The long narrow point will tend to be very "grabby" in the wood. The chain may feel very aggressive, really grabbing and getting a good bite in the wood, but the extra hook can cause problems in how the saw behaves (especially noticeable when bore cutting). That long thin point will also dull very quickly.

There are a couple of tools that will help avoid this, and help you to get the right depth every time. I use the file holder shown below. The file clips into the plate. The plate rests on top of the cutters as you sharpen, holding the file at just the right height in relation to the cutter you are sharpening. (NOTE: you need to match the guide tool to the size file you are using. It is not "one size fits all")


A couple of companies also sell a roller file guide. The image below is of one in use. The flat plate hanging off on the lower right is used when setting the raker/depth gauges. (NOTE: The roller guide must be matched to the pitch of chain you are using, and will not work with some types of chain.)


I use the first one shown, but have used the roller guide as well. Both work well. Some folks sneer at using these gauges as "training wheels". I figure if it works well, that's what matters to me. Can I sharpen freehand with a file? Yes, but not as good as some people on here can. If I did more freehand, I'm sure I'd get better at it, but I like not having to think about it when I sharpen. I'm very happy with the results, and that's what really matters, so I stick with it

[luvmexfood]

To answer your question I have a HF grinder. Is it as good as a $300 grinder. No. But with patience it will do an acceptable job. Just dont pay much attention to the angle gauge on the front and align it with guide marks on top of the chain. I have used it then taken a almost worn out file and then "honed" the chain and gotten a chain razor sharp. But when I did that I was just piddling around on a rainy day.

[pineywoods]

X2 on the harbor freight grinder. I bought one when they first came out, still using it. They are a tool and can be mis-used just like any tool. Most folks don't know that they can dress down the rakers and get them all exactly the same.

[woodsdog2015]

Hale87 - going too deep with the file will put more hook in the tip of the cutter. The long narrow point will tend to be very "grabby" in the wood. The chain may feel very aggressive, really grabbing and getting a good bite in the wood, but the extra hook can cause problems in how the saw behaves (especially noticeable when bore cutting). That long thin point will also dull very quickly.

There are a couple of tools that will help avoid this, and help you to get the right depth every time. I use the file holder shown below. The file clips into the plate. The plate rests on top of the cutters as you sharpen, holding the file at just the right height in relation to the cutter you are sharpening. (NOTE: you need to match the guide tool to the size file you are using. It is not "one size fits all")


A couple of companies also sell a roller file guide. The image below is of one in use. The flat plate hanging off on the lower right is used when setting the raker/depth gauges. (NOTE: The roller guide must be matched to the pitch of chain you are using, and will not work with some types of chain.)


I use the first one shown, but have used the roller guide as well. Both work well. Some folks sneer at using these gauges as "training wheels". I figure if it works well, that's what matters to me. Can I sharpen freehand with a file? Yes, but not as good as some people on here can. If I did more freehand, I'm sure I'd get better at it, but I like not having to think about it when I sharpen. I'm very happy with the results, and that's what really matters, so I stick with it

JohnMc, thanks for the pics.  I like the idea of that Husky file guide.  I saw on Labonville's site they have models for the .325 pitch and the 3/8" pitch chains.  Do you know if these will work on the Stihl green and yellow saw chain in the right pitch?  I'm thinking of picking a couple of these up.