Chainsaw sharpener

[Hale87]

In your opinion (not including yourself) what's the best "low end" chainsaw sharpener that would cost a 100 or less? There's a lot of them in that range but I'm quite sure some are much better than others. I need to run a 3/16s grinding wheel.

Thanks for your help.

[old guy]

It's called a file.

    John

[Hale87]

Thought I had that covered with...
"(Not including yourself)".   😊

[sawguy21]

 :D Truth be told, there is no such thing as a "best low end" chain grinder. They are difficult at best to adjust properly, they are slow and don't last. A quality file used in conjunction with the Carlton File O Plate or Husky roller guide and some practice will give far superior results.

[Hale87]

My problem with sharpening by hand is that it starts to creep to the right after I sharpen it 3 or 4 times. Do you think that's an inconsistent angle or do you think it would be a file isn't always level kind of thing?

[Gary_C]

Timberline Sharpener

A little more than a hundred but a nice precision sharpener. My brother had one but we sold it with his estate. Needs no electricity and sharpens right on the bar. Very well made.

[LeeB]

If you saw cut is creeping to one side or the other you aren't filing both sides consistently. The teeth on one side are longer than the other.

[Hilltop366]

Search for "Oregon Chainsaw Filing Guide" low cost fairly accurate, no need to use it every time just after a few sharpenings to get things trued up again.

[Hale87]

If you saw cut is creeping to one side or the other you aren't filing both sides consistently. The teeth on one side are longer than the other.

Rut Row, I never knew they had to be the same length. I always filed each tooth individually until it was sharp then moved on.

Thanks!!

[Walt]

I've got a Harbor Freight, a Granberg bar mount 12 volt, a box of files and typical file guides. If I really nail it bad on rocks or the likes of I cut it back to good corners with the Harbor freight. If I am cutting and need to dress the chain I hand file. If its noticeably dull after several hand filings I use the Granberg which maybe the best for me overall without removing the chain. I hand file depth gauges.
No best really, it depends and I know this makes no sense but its what I do. Regards Walt

[Ianab]

Rut Row, I never knew they had to be the same length. I always filed each tooth individually until it was sharp then moved on.

Having some random cutters a bit uneven isn't the end of the world, but if one side is consistently longer, it will cut better than the shorter side, and so you tend to saw in a curve. This can happen if you hit a rock or nail on one side of the chain, and have to file / grind a lot of metal away on just one side. If that happens, grind away the other side to match.

Also if hand filing, some people are better in one direction, and consistently take more material off one side. By the time the chain is 1/2 worn down, there is enough difference to notice. Again if you notice this happening, just give the long side a bit more attention. Some folks get into the habit of 3 stokes on their "good" side, and 4 of the 'off" side to keep things even.

But a few random shorter cutters on the chain isn't a big deal. Just those particular teeth might not be pulling their weight quite as well as they should.

[motohed]

Hale87 , you learn something new everyday , put it to mind , and it will defiately make your life easyer , don't forget to file the rakers , with a guide plate of some kind . Carlton made a few good ones back it the day j, ust make sure it's right for the saw you are using , Husky also make a fine filing unit for angle and depth gauges .

[motohed]

I also tend to file my rakers a little more than most , don't do it if your not light at hand with your saw , pushing is'nt an option . Be aware that it is a dangerous practice , for the unexperienced sawyer . I will take no liabilty for said practice .

[motohed]

I also run skip chain on 28" bars on a 70cc saw . regular full chisel at 28" for 88cc and above . Just  an FYI .

[thecfarm]

I do as Ianab said,another stroke or two when the saw is on the right works for me. Took me quite a few chains to realize what I was doing wrong. Finally I got frustrated and just took a log and a file and started cutting and filing. Finally I got it!! Been doing it for 30 years this way. The saw will draw itself into the wood. I have cut down trees bigger than 3 feet across. I must be doing something right.

[John Mc]

It's not necessary to file all cutters to the same length IF you are using the right kind of depth gauge tool to set your raker heights. See this thread for a description.

[motohed]

X2 thecfarm , You are correct . I was just adding a little info for the guys that are having a problem . I don't think there are any options other than a good filing job , but some will benifit for a filing gauge , too help them along . I do grind chain ocasionaly when they hit a stone or nail and need more service to bring them back . I would rather change a chain and get back to cutting then spend the time too bring them back with a file in the field . JMHO

[motohed]

John MC , if the chain is of a big different length from short to long , they will still not cut a strait line . it will be mininamal , but but they will wear the bar rail unlevel over time , hench they will wear the bar prematurely .

[motohed]

Another hint , it's a good idea to file the curf on the bar edges every once in a while . It will help the saw move through the wood easyer . you will feel a very sharp edge on the bar when it needs to be done . Many times if the edge is't file off the bar it will drag in the cut . Just an FYI .

[John Mc]

John MC , if the chain is of a big different length from short to long , they will still not cut a strait line . it will be mininamal , but but they will wear the bar rail unlevel over time , hench they will wear the bar prematurely .

IF it's a BIG different length, yes, that's true. However, if you used the depth gauge tools mentioned in the other thread, you can tolerate quite a bit of difference in the lengths of the cutters. What matters is not how long the cutters are, it's how big a bite of the wood each cutter is taking. If one side is taking bigger bites than the other, the saw will tend to curve (and the bar rails will tend to wear unevenly, contributing to an even worse problem with not cutting straight). One way of assuring that each cutter takes the same size bite is to file them all the exactly the same length, then use the type of depth gauge tool that bridges over two or more teeth to set the raker height. Another way is to accept some variation in length, and use a depth gauge tool that sets each raker in relation only to the height of the cutter than follows it.

I've been using the latter method for more than 10 years, and have no problems with any of my saws cutting in a curve, even when there is an easily visible difference in the left and right cutter lengths. Either method works, if done correctly, but filing all the cutters to exactly the same length is just one way of accomplishing the job. It's definitely not the only way.

[Hale87]

Thanks for the help with your comments.

Maybe you already answered this,,,,,,
(I'm a little confused at this point)
Sometimes after sharpening a chain a number of times my filings gets deeper (lower) in some of the teeth. So I'm wondering what that consequences of that are?

I run a 562xp with 20" bar and a full chisel tooth chain, but that's about all I know about the chains.

[John Mc]

Hale87 - going too deep with the file will put more hook in the tip of the cutter. The long narrow point will tend to be very "grabby" in the wood. The chain may feel very aggressive, really grabbing and getting a good bite in the wood, but the extra hook can cause problems in how the saw behaves (especially noticeable when bore cutting). That long thin point will also dull very quickly.

There are a couple of tools that will help avoid this, and help you to get the right depth every time. I use the file holder shown below. The file clips into the plate. The plate rests on top of the cutters as you sharpen, holding the file at just the right height in relation to the cutter you are sharpening. (NOTE: you need to match the guide tool to the size file you are using. It is not "one size fits all")


A couple of companies also sell a roller file guide. The image below is of one in use. The flat plate hanging off on the lower right is used when setting the raker/depth gauges. (NOTE: The roller guide must be matched to the pitch of chain you are using, and will not work with some types of chain.)


I use the first one shown, but have used the roller guide as well. Both work well. Some folks sneer at using these gauges as "training wheels". I figure if it works well, that's what matters to me. Can I sharpen freehand with a file? Yes, but not as good as some people on here can. If I did more freehand, I'm sure I'd get better at it, but I like not having to think about it when I sharpen. I'm very happy with the results, and that's what really matters, so I stick with it

[luvmexfood]

To answer your question I have a HF grinder. Is it as good as a $300 grinder. No. But with patience it will do an acceptable job. Just dont pay much attention to the angle gauge on the front and align it with guide marks on top of the chain. I have used it then taken a almost worn out file and then "honed" the chain and gotten a chain razor sharp. But when I did that I was just piddling around on a rainy day.

[pineywoods]

X2 on the harbor freight grinder. I bought one when they first came out, still using it. They are a tool and can be mis-used just like any tool. Most folks don't know that they can dress down the rakers and get them all exactly the same.

[woodsdog2015]

Hale87 - going too deep with the file will put more hook in the tip of the cutter. The long narrow point will tend to be very "grabby" in the wood. The chain may feel very aggressive, really grabbing and getting a good bite in the wood, but the extra hook can cause problems in how the saw behaves (especially noticeable when bore cutting). That long thin point will also dull very quickly.

There are a couple of tools that will help avoid this, and help you to get the right depth every time. I use the file holder shown below. The file clips into the plate. The plate rests on top of the cutters as you sharpen, holding the file at just the right height in relation to the cutter you are sharpening. (NOTE: you need to match the guide tool to the size file you are using. It is not "one size fits all")


A couple of companies also sell a roller file guide. The image below is of one in use. The flat plate hanging off on the lower right is used when setting the raker/depth gauges. (NOTE: The roller guide must be matched to the pitch of chain you are using, and will not work with some types of chain.)


I use the first one shown, but have used the roller guide as well. Both work well. Some folks sneer at using these gauges as "training wheels". I figure if it works well, that's what matters to me. Can I sharpen freehand with a file? Yes, but not as good as some people on here can. If I did more freehand, I'm sure I'd get better at it, but I like not having to think about it when I sharpen. I'm very happy with the results, and that's what really matters, so I stick with it

JohnMc, thanks for the pics.  I like the idea of that Husky file guide.  I saw on Labonville's site they have models for the .325 pitch and the 3/8" pitch chains.  Do you know if these will work on the Stihl green and yellow saw chain in the right pitch?  I'm thinking of picking a couple of these up. 

[farmguy]

I use a 12v Oregon sharpener it has round stones like a dremal works great around $40 I think

[John Mc]

JohnMc, thanks for the pics.  I like the idea of that Husky file guide.  I saw on Labonville's site they have models for the .325 pitch and the 3/8" pitch chains.  Do you know if these will work on the Stihl green and yellow saw chain in the right pitch?  I'm thinking of picking a couple of these up.

As far as I know, the first one I pictured will work on any chain that takes the size file that the holder is made for. I've used them on Stihl chains before, but can't tell you what kind of Stihl chains they were. Stihl also makes this style of file holder, and in my opinion, they are superior construction to the Oregon file holders. (Not that they sharpen any better, the just seem to hold up better. The Stihl ones have a bolt that holds the clamp in place, while the Oregon ones are just a spring clip.)

I can't tell you much about the roller file guides, since I've only used them a couple of times. THey work well, but I don't know which Stihl chains they will or won't work with.

[HolmenTree]

Some good advice no one touched on is filing with more top plate angle on one side then the other side, causing the chain to cut in a curve.

When filing chains by hand on short bar saws, it is easy to file with less top plate angle on the right hand cutters as the powerhead is in the way and cramps your filing stroke .
But filing the left hand cutters from the sprocket cover side you have lots of room and it's very easy to put in more angle .

In my opinion Stihl sells the best hand held filing guide on the market and this one is not expensive. 
Files the cutters and depth gauges at the same time. Very well built tool and does a great job

https://youtu.be/pjo4ypTbb84

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks Holmen Tree, you use and recommend this 2 in 1 guide then? 

[HolmenTree]

Thanks Holmen Tree, you use and recommend this 2 in 1 guide then?

I have tested it and I recommend it for anyone who doesn't have a lot of experience in hand filing.
Or if someone does have good experience but wants to simplify maintaining their chain then this is the best all in one tool.

Myself with my years of hand filing sawchain all I need is just a round file and a flat file....all done free hand. No guides or gauges needed ;)

[Straightgrain]

Tangent:

The files sold (in boxes) by chainsawr are very-very good in quality, availability, & price; one year later, and I'm still using the first file.  8)

I cut fir, maple, white oak, & filbert at least once a week, @ 9 months/year ; I sharpen the cutters between each tank of fuel on both saws (mostly on the MS362). I run the Alaskan mill with the 461 a couple times each year.

I belive one box may be a lifetime supply for a non-profit/pro like myself.

WEIW: I run the files in an Oregon file guide.

[John Mc]

The files sold (in boxes) by chainsawr are very-very good in quality, availability, & price; one year later, and I'm still using the first file.  8)

Which brand? I think he sells 3 or 4 different ones.

[Straightgrain]

The files sold (in boxes) by chainsawr are very-very good in quality, availability, & price; one year later, and I'm still using the first file.  8)

Which brand? I think he sells 3 or 4 different ones.

You got me  ;D

I'll go out and see if I can find the box.....they are Mad Dogs.

[ksks]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uS4_eA9zwc

here's an option for an electric.

[farmguy]

Oregon has a similar 12v one for 40 bucks it doesn't have a jig though. It has a guide plate. I quite like it myself. I believe it is called the Oregon sure sharp or something

[Straightgrain]

Oregon has a similar 12v one for 40 bucks it doesn't have a jig though. It has a guide plate. I quite like it myself. I believe it is called the Oregon sure sharp or something

I have that model too; they work great!

I found some diamond bits that last much longer than the stone bits.

I use the 12v when I'm using my construction saw (mac 3214) to cut roots or doing demolition projects like old barns etc.

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks Holmen Tree, you use and recommend this 2 in 1 guide then?

I have tested it and I recommend it for anyone who doesn't have a lot of experience in hand filing.
Or if someone does have good experience but wants to simplify maintaining their chain then this is the best all in one tool.

Myself with my years of hand filing sawchain all I need is just a round file and a flat file....all done free hand. No guides or gauges needed ;)

Thanks, I hope to get to that stage some day.  I can keep the saw sharp but I do have issues with the saw cutting in a curve but not lately so maybe I'm getting the hang of it.  I currently have a granberg jig (hand) non electric and that seems to be working good but is a little more complicated than I would like.  I want some quick and straightforward in the woods and then when I need to really touch them up, I'll go to something a bit more sophisiticated. 

[HolmenTree]

It's very important to be able to sharpen or touch up your sawchain on site  in the woods. Nothing works better for the novice then a stump vise and a file guide like the Stihl 2 in 1 that I showed earlier.
Best way to use the stump vise is hammer it on to the top of a stump about 3 feet high. Makes filing a lot easier
.

[Brad_bb]

Grandberg electric file n joint.  It really provides consistency in doing both sides the same.  I used to have an issue with the chain cutting in a curve, but once I really understood the correct way to use the Grandberg, it's not an issue anymore.  Wranglerstar did a two part video on properly sharpening with the grandberg.  The video could probably be improved a little bit, but it's pretty good.  Maybe I'll make a video...
https://youtu.be/Gzy6qYT5eg8
https://youtu.be/vbaNgDaLyEQ

[HolmenTree]

Granberg has been making everything that was shown in that video for well over 40 years now. Excellent top quality tools to use with their chainsaw mills.
Sharpening Sawchain on a Grandberg chainsaw mill is what the Grind- N-Joint was designed for. Sharpening for chainsaw milling is basically "touching up" the cutter's cutting edges from light dulling from dirt or grit in the bark of the log that's being milled.

But in the real world of the woodcutter cutting his winter supply of firewood stones and heavy ground dirt comes into the picture. Now we're looking at going to all the trouble of setting up that grinder on our b/c and hoping we're close enough to the truck to plug it in, and hopefully have a bench vise mounted  on the tailgate.
Then you will come to realize a good sharp round file will remove the rock damaged steel on the cutters alot better and faster then the little grinder stone could, without doing further damage to the temper of the cutter's steel.

The fellow in the video like myself have used Granberg's Alaskan chainsaw mills for years. And you learn to appreciate the quality of work they do. But the one thing I always kept up was my filing technique and always use a round file. Recently I'm now milling with a square filed chisel bit chain for better results in milling capabilities. 

I can see the fellow in the video is a poor hand filer from how he used that flat file on the depth gauges in the second video.  Destroying the file by pushing and pulling it back and forth like sandpaper. That just goes to show he never had the patience or the will to hand file.

He said the Grind-N-Joint is always consistent. It's not, everytime you remove it and put it back on the bar the manual resetting the tool and trying to  reposition the grinder the exact same height as the last time is  always open to human error.

A hand held filing guide that is already factory preset with nothing to mount or reset,  that will file both the cutter and depth gauge at the same time and can be carried in your pocket  can't get any more simple.
Just be patient,  practice your stroke and watch the angle of the guide and in no time you'll be a competent hand filer.

Oh, don't forget the stump vise..........

[Andyshine77]

The stone is also changing shape as it wears. Proper hook and depth gauge height is important than the top plate being a off a few degrees.   

[HolmenTree]

I'm also thinking with the knowledge of a muffler spark arrestor screen on a chainsaw preventing forest fires.......that throwing sparks from a Grind-N-Joint while sharpening in the field is not a good idea.
Especially with a chainsaw that has gasoline in it and possibly could have a leaky tank vent or fuel cap. Or just fueled up and  spillage is still on the saw.

Years ago on one summer day a fellow logger was felling trees with a saw with no spark arrestor.  He then moved to a new block that day, 4 days later a fire started on his old block and burned half of his log  pile.
Our safety committee figured out it took those 4 days for that spark to grow into that fire.

[farmguy]

You really don't get any spark I found. Only if you push too hard then it burns the temper off your chain. I don't worry about it too much because I always have it on the tailgate and the truck is always on the road. That 2 in one from still looks quite handy I might get one myself. On some chains particularly the on husqvarna's own chain they have really wide rakers and and a raker file wont touch it

[HolmenTree]

The Stihl 2 in 1 built in raker flat file is massive in thickness. Very well built product that won't flex and easy to use 2 handed . Stump or bench vise is a must though.

[UniversalFogger]

Another vote for the Stihl 2 in 1 file.  Great ergonomics, easy to use, and sharpens great.  It gives you great feedback, and is pretty inexpensive. 

Best of all, files take so little metal off the chains compared to electric grinders, and it's easier to make consistent from tooth to tooth. 

Everyone I've turned on to these really likes them.

[woodsdog2015]

Great Info. Holman Tree... thanks!