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I need to build a building...........too.

Started by DR_Buck, April 25, 2016, 10:39:28 AM

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DR_Buck



[/quote]Seems to me it would have been smarter to take the top soil off and level the building spot before you built it????
[/quote]


Couldn't do that or the building entrance would have been below grade.    Then I'd be dealing with water coming in every time it rains.   My only option was put the building in a different spot that was more level ground and that would have been a longer distance from the house, left me no room behind for a log yard and probably intruded on county setback distances.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

OneWithWood

I had the same issues with grade when we built the first pole barn many moons ago.  I put a lot of stone in to level the spot up just like DR.  It has worked very well and stayed very dry.
When I built the barn for the sawmill I took the other approach and dug out a huge swale.  Enough for the building and a road all around it.  That too, worked well and has stayed very dry.
It all depends on terrain.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Czech_Made

There is not much terrain variation in Remington, just saying  ;D

DR_Buck

Quote from: Czech_Made on June 09, 2016, 11:26:48 AM
There is not much terrain variation in Remington, just saying  ;D


The new building isn't in Remington.  It's in Farmville.   My Remington place is flat.... all 57 acres.    My new location is going to be Farmville as soon as the Remington place sells.  ;D
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Czech_Made

I see, sorry, wrong assumption  ;D

Edit:

My apologies, I should have read the whole thread, seems like you have great and well defined plans, congrats on leaving Fauquier County, it is getting bit full and crazy lately.

Myself, I would go west, like Fort Valley or such, but I still have quite few years left before I can even think about it.

snowstorm

looks like they do things different where you are. here the sod would have been removed then gravel it level it then pour crete and build on that. to gravel and level inside a building takes longer and costs more.

Straightgrain

 I'm still collecting wood for my AG buildings... ::)



 

This my net haul from answering a "free" barn wood ad on C/L.
"We fight for and against not men and things as they are, but for and against the caricatures we make of them". Joseph Schumpeter

DR_Buck

I have concrete !     8)        I'm also out of $$$.   ;)

~160 ton of #57 fill stone and 36 yards of concrete. 
























Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

thechknhwk


Czech_Made

Looking great!  I remembered you last Friday, because we drove through Farmville (my son played high school baseball semifinals in Lynchburg).  It sure is a nice area.

DR_Buck

I have a building !    8) 8) 8)

Over 3 months past the scheduled date the contractor finally got my building finished and all the unacceptable flaws corrected.   Now it's my turn to start running some electric and thinking about the internal dividing wall for the woodshop area as well as insulation.    I milled 80 13 ft 2 x4's a couple weeks ago to use for the interior walls.    After we sell the farm and make the permanent move to the new place where this building is, I'll add a few windows and a door out the back to the sawmill overhang area.

As for insulation, I'm probably going to use blue foam board with the foil face on both sides.   I'm just not sure on the best way to insulate the overhead.   I want to put a ceiling at the 12' truss height over the woodshop.   I will then insulate over the shop ceiling with either fiberglass batts or loose blown in insulation.   But I'm not sure I'm going to close in the ceiling on the garage side.   If I don't, then I need to insulate up against the metal roof across the whole building and the gable ends.  Or, close off at the truss where the shop starts and insulate only the garage side.  I could also insulate the entire underside of the roof and nix the separate insulation over the shop ceiling.     Speaking of ceilings,  I'm looking for ideas on ceiling materials.   I considered drywall, but I'm not enjoying the thought of all the weight screwed to the bottoms of the 40 ft truss span.   Maybe something like 4 x 8 sheets of beadboard?    Any suggestions?


















Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Magicman

29 gauge roofing is an idea.  Per sq ft, it is probably as light or lighter than any wood material, plus the corrugation adds much strength.

Your building looks very nice.   smiley_thumbsup
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Tom the Sawyer

Dr_Buck, I have a similar styled building with the overhang on the south side.  It was built before I bought my mill.  The overhang was a perfect place for the mill; out of the north wind and under cover but, I had to have some modifications done.  I had concrete in the barn but not under the overhang (originally intended for stalls) so I had to have the gable end metal removed and a concrete slab poured. 

The biggest issue was removing a post.  Mine were set on 12' centers and one had to go in order to load logs the length my mill could handle.  It also makes it easier to off-bear boards when sawing.  They had to install a triple header for the 24' span, and shorten and rehang the rafters, but it went well, and since the concrete was poured afterwards, it looked like it was designed that way.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

OneWithWood

DR, I used the same metal used for the roof as a ceiling in my pole barn.  It has held up very well for many years and was not difficult to put up by myself using screws and a screw gun.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

rjwoelk

Dr Buck.
How was the roof done, did they just strap and put steel on?
Now I live were it is a lot colder winters, we have problems with one of our machine sheds, we straped it put the steel on insulated with bats, vapour barier, osb on the inside, nice and warm in winter cool in summer. But we get condensation in the insulation to the point it runs down to the sill. I was told by a insulator to spray foam the ceiling if it is done that way to prevent the condensation, not a problem if you plywood the roof install a good moisture berier then strap and steel. Which is what I have done on the cabin.
Lt15 palax wood processor,3020 JD 7120 CIH 36x72 hay shed for workshop coop tractor with a duetz for power plant

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