1/4 Scale

[Scammell]

Hello,
I bought a wood mizer saw mill last fall. The lt35 HD.. I'm having a hard time using the quarter scale that came with it.. I've had 3 different woodmizer owners come look at my scale all of theirs are different then mine.. I feel like that scale that came with my saw Is a manufacturer defect.. Is there any way i can post a picture of it on here so somebody  can tell me if I'm wrong or right...When I switch from different thickness cuts in have to move my scale.. I've worked on mills before where this wasn't necessary.

[sawguy21]

Welcome to the scrum. Go to the bottom of the Home page for a tutorial on posting pictures. You need to create a gallery and upload your pictures to it before inserting them in a post. It is not difficult once you get onto it.

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Scammell.  Some LT35 owners will come along with help.

[MartyParsons]

Hello,
The LT15, LT28 and the LT35 have a magnetic standard quarter scale. If you place the first  4 line on the scale on 1" there should be one 4 line to lined up with 10" on the ruler scale. The space between each 4 line on the magnetic scale would be 1 1/8" between the lines.
There is also 4 5 6 and 8 lines on the magnet. This magnet figures out the 1/8" kerf loss between the cuts.

• 4 = 1" lumber
• 5= 1 1/4' lumber
• 6 = 1 1/2" lumber
• 8= 2" lumber

Hope this helps.

Marty
[/list]

[WV Sawmiller]

Scammell,

   Welcome to the FF. Please update your profile with location and equipment information so we all know more about you.

    I have owned my LT35HDG25 for 15 months and have a confession - I have yet to use my quarter scale. I love my Simple Set and use it extensively. When I see I have the face opened that I am comfortable with I turn on my SS and set it to the default 1-1/8" if I am cutting 4/4 or 1/8" more than whatever size I want and let it do the math for me. I even use it when measuring my cants. The only thing I even use my regular scale is to make sure I don't cut into my dogs or to tell my cant height if I want to stand my flitches up against it and start edging them.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

[Remle]

Hello,
I bought a wood mizer saw mill last fall. The lt35 HD.. I'm having a hard time using the quarter scale that came with it.. I've had 3 different woodmizer owners come look at my scale all of theirs are different then mine.. I feel like that scale that came with my saw Is a manufacturer defect.. Is there any way i can post a picture of it on here so somebody  can tell me if I'm wrong or right...When I switch from different thickness cuts in have to move my scale.. I've worked on mills before where this wasn't necessary.

Scammell
You are right, when you change board thicknesses on the same cant you need to reset your scale to do so. Those with Simple Set change the parameters of their program and in effect are doing the same thing as you do manually. Most times working with a squared cant this will result in a skim cut to get to the next board thickness. However if you use the sliding scale you can skip the skim cut and continue cutting down from the last cut surface leaving the extra thickness to the last board on the deck if you set it before moving the blade from the last cut. The best way I have found to open a log is to, level the log, set the blade to the desired slabbing location and set the sliding scale to the same height as the blade per the nearest 4,5,6or 8 marking on the scale and saw off the slab. Then take one or two additional fletches of the desired thickness before rotating the log. Then rotate the log and do the  procedure over again a second time. On the third rotation put the scale back down to the bed as a reference from the bed before taking off the slab, starting at the closest desired board thickness that will give you a wane free piece of material and additional skim cuts will not be necessary. The fourth rotation is handled the same as the third. As Marty stated, the band thickness is built into the scale from the bed up to provide the required height for each 4,5,6,8 taken from the cant.

[Kbeitz]

I made two adajustable pointers .




 

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Scammell.

[Scammell]

My Scale

[Scammell]

This is my Scale.

[Scammell]

And this is what i think my scale should look like .. AM i wrong?

[Bandmill Bandit]

Yup Eric
That what it should look like on the LT40 Wood mizer.

That is a pic of my mills scale/ruler during the laser install process.

Since I installed the simple set I don' ever adjust my scale ruler at all.

I see its out about an 1/8 in that pic. Ill have to go check it now. 

[barbender]

     Hello, Scammell- I am not understanding what you are having trouble with. On the LT40, the scale is held in place with a wingnut, you loosen it to adjust the scale.  If I am sawing say, an 8" cant, I open one face, rotate 180, and adjust the scale so whatever thickness lumber I am sawing (let's say 4/4) so the nearest 4/4 mark lines up with 8", and then saw with the scale down to 8". Yours looks like you would do the same thing, except yours is magnetic instead of being held in place by a nut. Am I missing something?

[barbender]

  If my post sounds snarky, that's not my intent at all.  I'm just saying, I am not clear on the problem.  I am a bit slow of understanding.  :

[Scammell]

I am jut not clear on if I am supposed to move the quarter scale with each different thickness cut. Say I cut one log using the 6 scale (1.5")and then the next log i want to us the 8 scale (2"). DO i have to move the magnetic scale each time to line up with the desired scale?  On my uncles old lt30 he never had to physically move any scales at any time. If I have my scale lined up on the 6 scale then it wil end at the 1.5" mark. Then on the next log if i leave the scale where it is and i want to cut on the 8 scale it the last board will end up on 2 3/4" mark when it should be on the two. I know i make things confusing.

[derhntr]

Maybe I am blind I just don't see a blade height indicator, I rarely use my 1/4 scale I use the accuset.

[barbender]

     Ok, I see the problem now. When you have the 4/4 aligned with 1", the 5/4 should align with 1 1/4",  6/4 with 1 1/2", 8/4 with 2". Yours doesn't look right, like it got cut at the wrong spot at the magnetic scale factory ;)

[uler3161]

I can't see the other end of your 1/4 scale, but I'm guessing it reads from the bottom up. I don't know the newer mills that well, but I think they changed how the gauges are done that required them to be read top down (which your 1" seems to be). If I'm correct, I believe your 1/4 scale is for an older mill.

[drobertson]

Looks like a mis print to me,,  all I can add to this is if you decide to change a pattern, meaning you start out with one plan, the two opposite sides are on a pattern, the two other faces on another plan,(pattern) if you will, once a pattern is decided on, and then switched up, the will be a waste trim cut to bring the new pattern in,, most of the time.  My advice is for each log pick a pattern and stick to it for less waste,, knowing at times there may be some,,, the other is get another scale stick,, that one you have  looks skew-hawed,,

[Ga Mtn Man]

Does the mill have a blade height indicator that spans across the two scales?

[Bandmill Bandit]

     Ok, I see the problem now. When you have the 4/4 aligned with 1", the 5/4 should align with 1 1/4",  6/4 with 1 1/2", 8/4 with 2". Yours doesn't look right, like it got cut at the wrong spot at the magnetic scale factory ;)

4/4 should be 1 1/8, 5/4 should be 1 3/8s, 6/4 should be 1 5/8s and so on.

[Remle]

Raise the 4/5/6/8 scale up so it is level on the end with the top black mark on the red section of the 1" scale, ditto on the other picture with the red end.


My Scale

[barbender]

     BB, my 1/4 scale gives me lumber that is not oversize, unless I flip it over and use the hardwood scale- i.e., if I aligned it so my 4/4 was on 1 1/8", I would have a bunch of 1" boards and one 1 1/8" on the bottom.

[Bandmill Bandit]

I will take some pics of my scale/measure stick on the mill and post em

[WDH]

Align the magnetic scale for the thickness of the bottom or last board you want.  Say that you want it at one inch.  Use the 4/4 magnetic scale and set the line of the "4" on the 1" mark on the permanent scale on the sawmill.  This will give you a bottom board that is exactly 1" from the bed rail.  Then raise the head to the nearest mark on the magnetic 4/4 scale where you want to make the first slab cut.  As you drop the blade to saw each board on the 4/4 mark on the magnetic scale, each board will be 1" thick.  If you take a ruler and measure between the 4/4 marks on the magnetic scale, you will find that it is 1 1/8" between the marks.  The extra 1/8" is for the kerf of the blade. 

On the Hardwood magnetic scale, there is 1 1/4" between the marks.  This yields boards that are 1 1/8" thick with 1/8" for blade kerf.  So when sawing hardwood were you want 1 1/8" boards, Set the 4/4 scale mark at 1 1/8" on the sawmill scale and each board and the last board will all be 1 1/8" thick.

Woodmizer has two scales.  One is called the standard scale and the scale has 1 1/8" between the marks for 4/4.  1" for the board and 1/8" for the kerf.  The other scale is called the hardwood scale, and it has 1 1/4" between the marks.  1 1/8" for the hardwood board plus 1/8" for kerf.

For any thickness you are sawing, say you want 8/4 and you are using the standard scale, then align the first mark on the magnetic scale for 8/4 at the 2" mark on the sawmill scale.

This may be confusing, but when you look at the permanent scale on the sawmill, that distance on the scale is the distance to the sawmill bed.  The blade will take the 1/8" kerf above that mark.