To mill or not to mill

[Timster]

The power company ran a new powerline on my property and plunged me into the logging business. After clearing the right of way and putting in an access road I was left with a lot of mill logs to process. Most of the saleable hardwoods have been hauled to the mill over the winter. Mother nature was kind and allowed me to haul the logs to the mill over the last few months.

Now I am left with the logs that were too small for the mill and all the white pine, hemlock, birch and beech. I have more than 6000bf stacked and ready to mill. My original thought was to have this milled for siding and extend my garage, build a new shed etc. After trying to find someone local to mill the logs I am considering buying a mill and making my own lumber. I am not interested in starting a new career but do like to make my own things.

I am considering a Woodland Mills HM126 for this project. I have a few questions that will help me decide to buy or not.

Is the hemlock good for framing lumber when cut to 2x4 etc or is it better left for siding?

How long does the hemlock have to dry before it could be used for framing etc?

How long can the hemlock sit before I mill it to framing lumber, siding etc? Its been cut since December. There is a lot of hemlock still in the right of way that I have not skidded out and bucked yet and was wondering how much time I have till it becomes useless.

On the same note how long do I have with the white pine?

What if any are the best uses for the beech? The mill suggested firewood :.

Lastly I saved all the burls and shorts from the cherry when I bucked the logs, is there a market for it and how should I handle it in the interim?

Thank in advance...Tim

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Timster.

Congratulations on your upcoming sawmill purchase!

Hemlock is a real good choice for framework.

It will work well for studs, rafters, etc, and will work well for sheathing or boarding up in general.

[Gearbox]

The white pine needs to be cut by the end of july . The bugs will move in the end of june and by the end of july will be leaving tracks and holes by next summer . This is for the northern states [ see why we want to know where you are from ] .

[Timster]

The white pine needs to be cut by the end of july . The bugs will move in the end of june and by the end of july will be leaving tracks and holes by next summer . This is for the northern states [ see why we want to know where you are from ] .

If the white pine is milled and stacked will the bugs move in? If so is there something to coat the wood with to keep them at bay? Is the hemlock safer to mill and store?

[Ianab]

Generally bugs attack green pine, especially logs with the bark still on.

Get the wood sawed up, and stacked so it dries. Once dry you can store it long term as long as it's off the ground and covered from the elements.   Pine dries pretty quickly, a few months depending on climate and season. Then it's safe to flat stack boards in a barn etc for long term storage.

Any bugs the got into the wood before it dried will either die, or mature and leave. Those species don't lay eggs in dry wood and re-infest it. 

[sprucebunny]

Hemlock is better nailed up right away after sawing  because it rarely dries straight and getting a nail into dry hemlock is as tough as nailing into hardwood.

[GAB]

Timster:
First thing Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Hemlock is very good for multiple uses if it does not have the "SHAKE".
If it has the Shake then the best use is firewood and without looking at it I could not tell you if yours has it.  I sawed some hemlock for a fellow last fall and upon seeing his logs told showed him those logs that I thought had it.

Concerning beech - I think there are different strains as some of mine will do just about everything wood will do and other logs will behave.  Beech saws pretty good.  Sawing slabs for tables and benches just might be the way to go with these.  It would also, in my opinion, a good wood to practice with.  Then you can put your mistakes in the firewood pile if you make any.

Concerning cherry - Like one fellow once told me, "I can sell 6' cherry all day, I can't sell any other wood in 6' lengths".  Saw some thick for tables and table legs.  IMO it is best to put the pith in the firewood pile.

As to your statement "I am considering a Woodland Mills HM126 for this project" - I have no experience with this sawmill and can't comment on it.

You said; "Lastly I saved all the burls and shorts from the cherry when I bucked the logs, is there a market for it and how should I handle it in the interim?"  At a minimum I would suggest keeping them off of the ground and out of the weather as much as possible.

You wrote; "On the same note how long do I have with the white pine?"  White pine turns blue in warm weather.  So if you want it for out buildings may not be a problem.  If you want it for furniture or for finish trim in a house it may not be the most attractive.  What others have said about bugs is true.  Pine is tricky and sticky, and if you wait long enough it can also be denim and bullet pine.

Hope this helps you,
Gerald

[thecfarm]

White pine,I suppose you mean eastern white pine I would not wait too long to saw.It's not a great strong wood,I would not be concerned about the color of it,it will stain,but it's no where near as strong as hemlock. I think you could let the hemlock lay for a year,but would be better to get it off the ground. I am also talking about hemlock more than a foot across too. Hemlock,I cut the tree,haul it to my mill,and than build with it,all with in a few hours. Hemlock will probably split on you when dried. I had some that did. Good luck.
And buy that mill!!!!!  ;D

[Timster]

GAB, Gerald
Here are some pictures of the logs I have stacked and ready to mill, don't know if you can tell from these pictures. What is SHAKE?









There should be enough to build an addition to my garage and a new shed. :laugh:

[Timster]

The logs were cut in the fall and have sat all winter. I have them up off the ground, however, there are still a lot more on the ground that I didn't skid out. Now that I am considering getting my own mill I will have to go back and harvest them before they rot.

Here are some pictures of the smaller logs that didn't make it to the mill and are stacked and covered along the road.

Some firewood and more logs stacked and covered


Originally I was storing this for firewood but a new mill changes my plans  :

[sawdust joe]

saw.dust00@yahoo.com      sir I have sawmill in gouldsboro PA.
have been sawing for 20years .
If you want to visit e mail me.
sawdust joe

[GAB]

Timster:
You wrote; "Here are some pictures of the logs I have stacked and ready to mill, don't know if you can tell from these pictures".
I would have to be much closer to the ends of the logs to be able to tell.

To the ?; "What is SHAKE?"
I hope someone with more knowledge of this subject adds to what I am writing.  I would describe it as a separation of the fibers along the annular rings.  After you saw it as you remove the boards they literally fall apart in your hands.  It's like the tree glue that holds the fibers together has failed, if that makes any sense.  You can still use it for fuel to make maple syrup though.

My Dad built a machinery shed in 1965 using pine for the walls and knowing that pine was a weaker wood than hemlock he used 3 x 6's instead of 2 x 4's and it is still standing today.
Gerald

[Peter Drouin]

There you go, Go see sawdust joe, I'm sure he will be a big help, And I bet he can show you some Hemlock shake.

Thanks sawdust Joe. 

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Timster.  There are several Woodland Mills owners here on the FF who can answer questions.   

[Gearbox]

Unless you are going to kiln dry the white pine do not use it for finish lumber . I have one trim board in my house and it bled pitch from the knots for 10 years I think .

[Chuck White]

Nice whack of logs!

Shake is the separation of growth rings, not uncommon in Hemlock!

If the W/Pine is milled and stickered with no bark, the bugs shouldn't bother it!

Cover it, but don't enclose it by tarping it all the way to the ground!

[Brad_bb]

After you mill, you can spray or fog the lumber with Timbor or Boracare to keep the buggies out. 

[Brucer]

... getting a nail into dry hemlock is as tough as nailing into hardwood.

That's sure true of Western Hemlock. I bought some 2x6 Western Hemlock when I built my house and on a couple of pieces I couldn't drive a 3-1/4" nail more than 1/4" into the surface before it would bend :(. Pull the bent nail, use another, go another quarter inch :( :(. Repeat >:( >:(. Repeat >:( >:( >:( >:(. Throw board into the firewood pile and get another one.

[Kbeitz]

... getting a nail into dry hemlock is as tough as nailing into hardwood.

That's sure true of Western Hemlock. I bought some 2x6 Western Hemlock when I built my house and on a couple of pieces I couldn't drive a 3-1/4" nail more than 1/4" into the surface before it would bend :(. Pull the bent nail, use another, go another quarter inch :( :(. Repeat >:( >:(. Repeat >:( >:( >:( >:(. Throw board into the firewood pile and get another one.

Drills dont cost that much today...

[Chuck White]

I could not imagine drilling a hole every place that I wanted to put a nail!       :-\ 

[Kbeitz]

I've done it... It's not to bad if you can drill and someone else hammer...

[gww]

I have had to drill and nail on everything I have built so far except what I had to drill then screw :D

I did build a very small portion of what I built with a nail gun and then just had to finish driving some of the nails.  130 lbs pressure on the framing nailer.  Mostly building with all hard woods.  Even had to drill the board and batton siding which the outer board is less then an inch thick.  I am not a very cowardinated nail driver though.
Cheers
gww

[Timster]

Met with Sawdust Joe today, great guy. Well I think the mill is in my near future for sure. Next question is how would you go about handling my "Field of Beams" ;D
These were all cut last December and are mine for the taking. Need some ideas on how to manage this resource before it gets too bad to make it worth the effort.

Skid them out stack and saw later?
Saw into cants ASAP stack and store finish later?

Looking for some ideas from the experienced collective  ;)

Down but not out ... Yet!


More of the timber

[Remle]

Skid and stack by species off the ground, saw later. You loose to much sawing into cants and stacking as they twist and split while drying.

[GAB]

Personally I would do the pine first, before it gets buggy or turns blue.
Then the maple if there is any.
Gerald