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8x8 post to concrete?

Started by dablack, April 02, 2016, 07:21:37 PM

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dablack

It is finally time to get to work on the timber frame(ish) porch.   I still haven't figured exactly how I'm going to connect my beams together but I do know I will be using 8x8 posts.  I looked at Simpson post bases but it was about $80 for ONE post base!   I'm going to be using 5 posts!   No way I can spend $400 on post bases.   

Any other way to do this?

Thanks
Austin
Building my own house in East TX

Den-Den

For keeping the post in place, a steel pin (3/4"?) sticking up into the post bottom a few inches will do the job.  If you need to resist uplift, perhaps a steel strap (or two) embedded in the concrete that could be screwed to side of post.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

fishfighter

I welded these together that cost me a big $6. If you weld or know some one, you can do them to were using all thread rods or bolts when setting your concrete bases.


 



 

fishfighter

Quote from: Den-Den on April 02, 2016, 09:16:52 PM
For keeping the post in place, a steel pin (3/4"?) sticking up into the post bottom a few inches will do the job.  If you need to resist uplift, perhaps a steel strap (or two) embedded in the concrete that could be screwed to side of post.

This would work, but the problem doing it that way is that one would trap moisture under the post. That would speed up rot.

Using the base plates I built, There is a air gap between the base and post.

dablack

Thanks guys!   I think I will go with the embedded rod and straps but put in some spacers to get a little air in there. 

Austin
Building my own house in East TX

Ladysmith

I have seen builders create a drip edge on the bottom of posts by routing out the bottom 1/4 inch leaving the drip edge. Water running down the post will not soak towards the center if the drip edge is in place. Spacers alone may not keep the bottom of the post from retaining moisture , Thanks.
Rich

Magicman

Two (or 4) pieces of angle iron bolted to the concrete works well for "straps".  Spacer the posts up off of the concrete and you are good to go.
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Jim_Rogers

Place a water proof membrane between the wood and any steel or concrete. Like Ice and water shield paper. This may prevent the wood from wicking up any moisture.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

kgb12158

What I've used for a couple of post on concrete project are the Simpson Strong Ties.  They attach to the bottom of your post or can be bolted down to the surface.  I also have some galvanized metal bent to wrap up opposite sides of the post.   The galvanized strap holds the post to the concrete while the strong tie lifts it off the surface.


The Simpson Strong Tie CPS7 works for 8X8s  ~$8-10 each
Kim Balfour Timber Framing since 1986, Woodmizer LT40 HG, and 52" Lane 00 circular Mill.
Only 23 months to full time timber framing

Brad_bb

Consider making 1/4" thick plexiglass plates to go between the post and the concrete with 4 chamfered screw holes to screw them into the bottom of the post.  You can use timberlinx to anchor them.  For timberlinks you have a hole bored up the center of the bottom of the timber and one cross hole.  You drill your concrete and epoxy the stud in.  Drilling and epoxying allow you to be precise, unlike with Simpson ties that you have to wet set and hope they are close enough and bend to get them where they need to be.

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

stumax

Instead of Plexiglas; I was able to order 1/4 inch PVC plates which were cheaper and more malleable (less likely to crack).  They are also cut to size and you can choose a color if that matters. (I got dark grey)

canopy

If it is regular PVC and not something like uPVC, that might not be a good choice in outdoor areas because regular PVC gets rotted away by the sun. I would hesitate to use any material not recommended by an engineer. An engineer recommended plexiglas for my build. I didn't find the price any sort of consideration as so little is needed. plexiglas also comes in a various colors.

Dakota

If you've got any shingle cut offs laying around from a roofing job, they work great for a barrier between cement and wood.
Dave Rinker

stumax

It is the same PVC they use for industrial uses and outside storage tanks.  It is not structural just a water/vapor barrier from the concrete so I dont think your engineer is going to loose too much sleep over it.  I have also used aluminum/rubber roofing flashing. It doesn't look as nice and doesn't stick in cold temperatures.

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