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Looking for a smooth cutting bandmill blade

Started by Hackermatack, April 02, 2016, 12:25:14 PM

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Hackermatack

Does anyone know of a bandmill blade that would resaw white pine and leave a really good finish that could be easily sanded smooth? I have table saw blades that will leave a finish that looks like it came out of a planer, just wondering if such a animal exists for a band saw mill.   
Jonsered 2230, 590, 70E. Kioti DK 35 /w fransguard winch. Hudson Oscar 236

Dave Shepard

I find that resawing dry pine leaves a rough surface, rougher than fresh sawn. I don't know much about sanding, so I can't tell you how much effort it might take to sand rough sawn lumber
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Magicman

Set is just as important as sharpness when it comes to smoothness.  Less than sharp blades may pull wood fibers rather than cut and even one tooth out of set will leave skips or drag marks.  I have sawn some very smooth, but even with the best blade it is still "rough sawn".   On a regular basis, you will need a planer.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Cedarman

Saw blades for table saws can be made so that the teeth have planer edges, thus making the board glue joint smooth when you rip them.
Band saw teeth have a point rather than a straight edge.  So you cannot get a planer smooth cut with a band saw blade. 
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Percy

I had good results with woodmizers stellite blades(razor tip) which was still not as good as what your tablesaw was doing. Sanding with a good random orbital was relatively quick.
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Hackermatack

Quote from: Magicman on April 02, 2016, 02:49:00 PM
Set is just as important as sharpness when it comes to smoothness.  Less than sharp blades may pull wood fibers rather than cut and even one tooth out of set will leave skips or drag marks.  I have sawn some very smooth, but even with the best blade it is still "rough sawn".   On a regular basis, you will need a planer.

Oh I got a couple planers just not big enough for the job, I was just hoping to find a smooth cutting blade to resaw some dry wide bar top slabs. By taking a light cut on both sides I can remove any twist and cup that occurred in the kiln then sand and finish. I can of course do it with any new sharp blade and if I go slow enough will get a pretty good job. I have done this several times on warped dry planks that fit through my planer and it works like a charm. I just thought if I could purchase a smoother cutting blade it would save a bunch of work, although sanding is my favorite pastime "not" ;D
Jonsered 2230, 590, 70E. Kioti DK 35 /w fransguard winch. Hudson Oscar 236

Hackermatack

Quote from: Percy on April 02, 2016, 02:53:56 PM
I had good results with woodmizers stellite blades(razor tip) which was still not as good as what your tablesaw was doing. Sanding with a good random orbital was relatively quick.

Been looking at those, might be worth trying a box. I am sure they will work for something I cut even if they don't work out for this job.
Jonsered 2230, 590, 70E. Kioti DK 35 /w fransguard winch. Hudson Oscar 236

Larry

I re-saw some on the shop bandsaw.  I've found the more teeth the better the cut.  Also the more teeth the slower the cut. :-\  The ultimate finish is a carbide band$$$.  Even though it is smooth, I wouldn't want to finish sand a large board with a sander.

When I got my first mill in '94 3/4" pitch bands were common and did cut smoother than the 7/8" pitch we now use.  I also had a carbide band for that mill to resaw dry tropical hardwood.  It was a Laguna but only 1" wide. 
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Magicman

Quote from: Hackermatack on April 02, 2016, 03:25:46 PMBeen looking at those, might be worth trying a box.
They are expensive to buy plus expensive to resharpen.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Kbeitz

Cutting really slow will give you a smooth cut...

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

btulloh

This planer will do the trick on wide stuff and it's pretty cheap.  ;)  Even works off the grid.



 

Use the jack plane first then hit with a smoothing plane.  Finish up with a card scraper.  No sanding needed and makes a better finish.  Quick too.
HM126

Hackermatack

Jonsered 2230, 590, 70E. Kioti DK 35 /w fransguard winch. Hudson Oscar 236

Bruno of NH

Hand planes make a top notch finish on slabs .
I find people will pay more for it too . Jm2c
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

MartyParsons

Hello,
We have a customer who is using the carbide. He is cutting Exotic woods for guitar tops. They need to have the tolerance less than .020. I think they are sawing the product 3/8" thick.  I think Gibson is one of the companies. They cut samples for these companies and they were awarded the contracts for all of the bids. They are using carbide tipped band saw blades. Being this thin they glue it to another product and sand. We also sharpen Carbide tipped blades and I don't think we are charging any more to sharpen the carbide blades unless they are longer than 202". The Carbide blades stay sharp much longer than the other blades. The sawing surface is also smooth as a baby's but. The negative is the cost of the blade. But if smooth is your goal it may be worth the cost. I would not recommend everyone change to Carbide tip blade because of this. If you would find hardware in the log or hit something else you may cry a little because of the cost.   
Hope this helps.
Marty

"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

btulloh

Please note: that plane in the picture is not one of my planes. I would be ashamed to have something that shiny. A plane should be sharp, well tuned, and be clean. But not shiny and bright. Someone did a nice restoration on that plane, but now it's too purdy to be a worker. Just sayin'. 
HM126

Hackermatack

Quote from: MartyParsons on April 03, 2016, 02:07:04 PM
Hello,
We have a customer who is using the carbide. He is cutting Exotic woods for guitar tops. They need to have the tolerance less than .020. I think they are sawing the product 3/8" thick.  I think Gibson is one of the companies. They cut samples for these companies and they were awarded the contracts for all of the bids. They are using carbide tipped band saw blades. Being this thin they glue it to another product and sand. We also sharpen Carbide tipped blades and I don't think we are charging any more to sharpen the carbide blades unless they are longer than 202". The Carbide blades stay sharp much longer than the other blades. The sawing surface is also smooth as a baby's but. The negative is the cost of the blade. But if smooth is your goal it may be worth the cost. I would not recommend everyone change to Carbide tip blade because of this. If you would find hardware in the log or hit something else you may cry a little because of the cost.   
Hope this helps.
Marty
Thanks my mill takes a 167" blade I could not find that length listed on the WM site but I may have adjustment enough for a 170 which I did find listed. I think it is worth a shot I am not too worried about hardware as it is all resaw work and hitting hardware that did not show up the first time through is unlikely.
Jonsered 2230, 590, 70E. Kioti DK 35 /w fransguard winch. Hudson Oscar 236

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

It is common when using satellite and other carbides to side dress the saws.  This means that the sides of all the teeth are sticking out the same amount so the surface will be very smooth.  A circle saw on a table saw can have that same side dressing.  So, look for a band blade with side dressing.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Brad_S.

-Munkforssagar band blades (aka "monkey blades" or "monks" in the forum search engine) have an extremely smooth cut in green wood, not sure about resawn.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

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