Fender mounting on a trailer

Ljohnsaw · March 17, 2016, 08:41:52 PM

I've seen many comments about removable fenders on saw mills (i.e. to get them out of the way when loading logs). I have a boat trailer converted to flat bed that I'm still modifying. I put the axle under the springs when I put a new one on to give better ground clearance and upped the wheel size from 13" to 15". However, the fenders look really goofy now with about 10" of clearance above the tire. I had to haul something really wide so I removed the fenders but should really put them back on - especially when raining - giant rooster tails!

So, the question is, how best to mount them to be easily removed when I need to when hauling logs, etc. Those with mills that have removable fenders, can you post a picture or two?

Thanks

WV Sawmiller · March 17, 2016, 09:26:11 PM

LJ,

Not sure if it would work for your application but the WM design on my mill has a slot about 3-4 inches wide and about 1/4" between to two sides on the trailer making a female end. On the fenders there is a corresponding male end that slides down between the parallel sides in the slot. There are 2 short bungy cords attached to the fender that fit in a groove on each side of the slot that holds the fenders in the slot when in motion.

If you need I will try to take pictures tomorrow and post them. Good luck.

Magicman · March 17, 2016, 09:27:46 PM

Check out this picture of Seavee's new sawmill.

The fenders have a steel strap ~¾ X 3" that is welded to the fender and extends down and fits into a slot about 3" tall. A bungee holds the fender strap into it's "socket".

Maybe someone has their sawmill close and can take detailed pictures.

Here the unattached fenders are in their normal nesting place when I am sawing. One of the steel straps is seen sticking up from a fender.

Ljohnsaw · March 17, 2016, 11:36:26 PM

Ok, I see how that's done. Pretty simple. I was thinking I would need two rods of some sort, one at each end to plug into something. This gives me something to think about. I was also wondering how to make them stay in when traveling. I suppose a bungee would work. With just the one attachment point, do they tend to flutter when underway? Maybe you don't drive your mill like I do my trailer (70mph)

Thanks.

WV Sawmiller · March 17, 2016, 11:43:50 PM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 17, 2016, 11:36:26 PM
Ok, I see how that's done. Pretty simple. I was thinking I would need two rods of some sort, one at each end to plug into something. This gives me something to think about. I was also wondering how to make them stay in when traveling. I suppose a bungee would work. With just the one attachment point, do they tend to flutter when underway? Maybe you don't drive your mill like I do my trailer (70mph) Thanks.

Mine have 2 bungee cords/straps on them - one on each end and they stand up well to highway speeds and conditions.

Chuck White · March 18, 2016, 07:32:08 AM

Lynn, I usually put my fenders in the same area as you do when sawing, it keeps me from forgetting them when I'm finished sawing at that site. :-\

I have never bungeed my fenders on, and have been over some pretty rough roads, maybe I've been lucky!

Kbeitz · March 18, 2016, 07:49:59 AM

Mine fits in square holes... Easy on easy off...

Magicman · March 18, 2016, 07:59:04 AM

That is a very solid attachment Kb. Looks good too.

Chuck, nesting them there also keeps my knees from hitting the hitch.

;D

drobertson · March 18, 2016, 08:03:50 AM

K, nice coat of paint, did you give it a fresh one, or is this an older picture? Nice a tide y fender placement,, the wmz'rs have the fender welded to a flat bar that slides into a slot,,the flat bar has a slight camber, to accommodate the location. Mine has one bungee, it holds,

Magicman · March 18, 2016, 08:16:37 AM

Keeping the fender slot open and clear of debris is very important. It's not a pretty sight when a fender comes loose at highway speed. How do I know. :-\

A thin screwdriver makes quick work cleaning the slot. Kb's look open which is good.

WV Sawmiller · March 18, 2016, 10:27:27 AM

LJ,

Here are the pix off my WM LT35HD. Hope this helps.

Here is the male end with bungee cords/hooks

Slot/female end. Hard to see but note the little slots for the bungee hooks.

Here's proof you need to remove the fenders before engaging the hydraulics.

Ljohnsaw · March 18, 2016, 12:34:30 PM

Thanks again. The way WM does it is pretty slick - I like the little hidden bungees.

Kbeitz, that is what I had in mind but just couldn't think of how to mount the bars. I like the wrap around and that is what would work for me.

Kbeitz · March 18, 2016, 01:30:44 PM

Quote from: drobertson on March 18, 2016, 08:03:50 AM
K, nice coat of paint, did you give it a fresh one, or is this an older picture? Nice a tide y fender placement,, the wmz'rs have the fender welded to a flat bar that slides into a slot,,the flat bar has a slight camber, to accommodate the location. Mine has one bungee, it holds,

That was an old picture before I dusted everything...

Brucer · March 19, 2016, 01:33:52 AM

That's the first time I've seen Wood-Mizer fenders with two bungee cords. Both my mills and my edger only have one (and both the mills were new when I bought them). I wonder if it's a regulation thing that varies from one jurisdiction to another ???.

The WM fenders are quite stiff -- notice they have a channel shaped cross section. That's how they get away with a single mounting point.

I've pulled my mill at 110 km/h, or about 65 MPH with no flapping :D.

Magicman · March 19, 2016, 07:37:49 AM

My sawmill did not come with bungee cords. It had pins with spring loaded ball catch thingies that rusted and were not reliable. I have been using a longer bungee cord on mine since one of my fenders bounced off while traveling. Thankfully nothing was following me and I saw it through the rear view mirror. It took much hammering to straighten it enough to use.

WV Sawmiller · March 19, 2016, 09:26:11 AM

MM,

Maybe the first thing us WM owners should do when we get a new mill is sandblast all that orange off it then we would not have to spend the rest of our career knocking it off one piece at time with road rash, misloaded logs, etc.

I like the military idea of buying their vehicles with flat paint job so you don't mind driving them in the woods and places you need to drive a truck.

Brucer · March 20, 2016, 02:10:55 AM

Lots of good pictures of Wood-Mizer removable fenders -- except for the most critical one. Here's why the fenders don't flap in the breeze ...

Ljohnsaw · March 20, 2016, 04:10:17 PM

OK, finished the job. Not nearly as elegant as Kbeitz', but gets the job done. If you look at the angle on the frame in front of and behind the fenders, you can see how the old fenders came off the frame. I cut off about a foot and flattened them a little to span the gap and lower the arch. I had some clothing store furniture (chromed extendable steel racks) that I used the push buttons to lock the fenders in place. We'll see if they just end up getting rusted in place :-\

I took the opportunity to weld in a couple of 2" ID stock to be used for stake side posts or winch sockets or trailer log arc pivot points.

Kbeitz · March 20, 2016, 08:53:02 PM

They are call H-racks. I had a few hunderd of them The steel is great for building things.
I think I got only about 4 of them left. What I got came from a Hills department store.

Ljohnsaw · March 20, 2016, 09:03:31 PM

Unfortunately, this one was not an H rack. It was a circular-topped one. The fixed part was an open top A and the other 2 legs were hinged in the middle so it could lay flat. So there were no right angles :-\ It opened into an X configuration. Kind of hard to stick weld it.

Magicman · March 20, 2016, 09:29:23 PM

Your fenders look nice, and the attachment method should be OK.

Ljohnsaw · March 21, 2016, 01:42:46 AM

Quote from: Magicman on March 20, 2016, 09:29:23 PM
Your fenders look nice, and the attachment method should be OK.

??? Better put your glasses on! :D I just used my 4½" angle grinder with a 80 grit disc to smooth out the old, chipped paint. It ended up sort of melting the paint and left some uneven spots. The gloss paint made it stand out even more. I figure they will just get all scratched up so no need for a show-room finish :D

They are on there pretty stiff and should hold up. I can stand on them. Just need to put some anti-cease in the mounts so they don't rust in place.