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Its beginning to look a lot like a sawmill

Started by gms1911, March 12, 2016, 10:25:18 PM

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gms1911

I'm fairly new here. My first post. Been reading a lot. And replied to a few.

So I bought 8.5 heavily wooded acres and begun the process of clearing to build a house. Called around to a few logging companies only to be laughed at when I told them I wanted to sell 2-3 acres of wood. Called a guy with a portable mill. $60 an hour for two men and I still had to do most of the work. Thought about loading and hauling to a local mill about 30 minutes away. But then I have to go back and get them. So, I said all that to say......I'm just going to build a mill and cut the trees myself.

Why not? For less than a weeks pay to the guy that works for $60 hr. I can build one and have a mill that belongs to me when I'm done cutting. For some reason I don't think I will ever be done cutting trees. 

Mainly posting so if any of you guys that have built before or just have experience with mills or fabricating see me screwing something up maybe you can stop me before I get in toooooo deep.

This is what I have so far. Forgive me if my terminology is wrong. I started out with a fixed mill. But after putting my old camper up for sale and then realizing that it was in worse shape than I thought. I decided to gut it, trash the camper and keep the trailer frame for the mill build. I had already picked up 2- 23.5' x 10" C channel from a commercial building that was being removed. Got a good deal on some 5"x 3" angle for the cross members. That's it for the carriage as of right now. I will have to go to the steel yard for the rest.

For power I picked up a Kubota 3 cylinder diesel off Craigslist. 19hp and 30 lbs of torque. I have an older ferris walk behind parts mower that I'm going to strip some parts off of.

I welded up the C channel to the trailer last week and the cross members where cut and welded on today. The carriage width from edge to edge is 54". With I believe will be a 20.5' max cutting length. Going to get the angle this week so I can get it tacked in place. Dogs need to be installed then off to get painted. Any suggestion on paint color?

Still debating a few things on the head. Leaning toward acme thread for lift/lower. I know its slow but precise and easily converted to electric or hydraulic in the future. I want to add bearings in my head. Not sure what that part of the unit is called. Where the square tubing telescopes over each other raising and lowering the head. Does anyone experience binding with the square tubing telescoping on each other? Seems like if the load of the band wheels and engine etc are not somewhat equal front to back or side to side it would cause it to bind up.

I think that covers everything on my mind right now.

Thanks in advance for any advice.




gms1911

Can't get pix to load...... I'll try again tomorrow.

4x4American

Yellow  smiley_wavy   Welcome to the forum.


I look forward to watching another mill build.  Post pictures please!  You can't go wrong having a sawmill around.  It's the best. 


As for color, I'd paint it John Deere Green, on a hot summer night.   8)
Boy, back in my day..

Kbeitz

The square tubeing wont bind if it's long enough.
This is what I did to lift my carrage and so far I'm very happy with it.
Third picture down.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,82853.0.html

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

gms1911

 I think i figured it out. Thanks for the replies so far.



  

  

  

  

  

  

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Wisconsintimber

Your mill frame is looking good!  I used square on square for the up/down and have had no problems.  The outside slider is 6-8" long so it doesn't bind.  I used acme threaded rod hooked to a hyd motor for the raise and lower.  Works great, but is a little slow.

Dave Shepard

Is the Ferris a hydrostatic? You could have hydro feed and up/down. 8)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

gms1911

It is hydrostatic. I was thinking of using it for either the raise and lower or to drive the carriage. I have been doing a little research on chain drives this week as a possibility. But I really need to start narrowing it down and get set on something.

I bought all the rest of my steel this week. The band wheels came along with the pillow blocks and shafts. A tiny tach for the kubota and a few other items. It's been like Christmas around my house.

Dave Shepard

Use one wheel motor for the travel, and the other for the up and down.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

gms1911

I don't think I can. It's a single drive unit. Both rear wheels are driven off the single unit.  I'm going to tear into it tomorrow. Seeing as it will be raining and everything else I want to do is outside.

Dave Shepard

I see. My Scag had a motor on each wheel.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

gms1911

So I had to take a break from fab'n the mill to make my son a forge for his birthday. Here are a few pics of the head and of coarse the forge. I plan on working on it more this week. In hopes of having it ready to go by the end of next week. I know I have high expectations, but if I don't I will never get done. I am actually looking into picking up an electric wheel chair off CL to power the head and carriage. Can't get pix to load. I don't what I'm doing wrong............Says I can't upload files of this type. There pictures from my Iphone. I'm sure its just me. It's kinda sad. I can build a sawmill from scratch but can't upload a picture....

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

valley ranch

Glad you came round, glad you're here. Let there be mill. Down south, is that all you're gona tell us? We're not coming over an askin what's in the fridge. Still glad you're showing us your mill.


That forge looks pretty good too, cfarm!

thecfarm

Valley ranch,are you saying that is my forge?? That is a picture of gms1911 forge.   :)  He had a hard time posting pictures and just trying to help him out.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Ox

Looks like a good start!  In most run of the mill square tubing there will be a seam inside of it.  Turn these seams so they're the same on each side when assembled.  On my mill, the seams for the sliding square tubing (for the head up/down) are turned toward the inside of the mill on each side.  This leaves a smooth surface for the front, back, and outside to slide on without binding.  No lube, just paint, no binding.  B7 threaded rod for up/down on mine, 16 TPI sped up through chains and sprockets to 4 turns per inch on my handle.  What are your plans for blade guides?  This seems to be a major building point for many people.  I think it might be easier to build the head if you knew exactly what guide system you were planning on using.  :)
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

gms1911

Thanks thecfarm. I'll have to sit down at the computer again when I have more time to spend on it. Maybe the next rain day.

As far as guides. I've picked up some some bearings and I'm just going to telescope some 3/4 square tubing into or out of whatever my steel man has that will work. 

gms1911

I worked on the mill for about 30 minutes today. Should get to work most of the day Saturday on it. I chopped up an old floor jack and mounted it to the head for my band tensioner. 

valley ranch, I'm in north Ga. what used to be a little town called Cumming. Now we are a suburb of Atlanta. Really stinks! Everybody used to wave at everybody. Now no one knows anybody. But my little piece of the pie is like being back in the old days. Can't wait to get the mill done and moved over so I can get busy cutting lumber for the floors, doors and trim. Oh and my barn. By the way, my fridge is always open!

ox, thanks for the heads up on the seam. I have given some thought into that. Just haven't made it to that part yet.  I will definitely keep that in mind.

thecfarm... at the bottom of my reply to the post, I have "+ attach documents and other options" and "click here to add photos to post" . When I click the first one it allows me to add 4 photos but then I get an error that the files aren't allowed. When I click on the other it takes me to where I add photos to my gallery but I don't get an option to add to my reply. What am I doing wrong?

I guess for now until I can figure this out, If anyone wants to see my progress you can go to my galley.

gms1911


gms1911



I think I figured it out again. Just hope I can remember the time I sit down and  try...... :D

Ox

By golly, that's a nice tensioner.  Good idea.  Using what you've got is also very cool.  Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.  Nice little rhyme I say to myself all the time...
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

4x4American

After you add the pictures to your gallery, forget that confusing page it brings you to, look on the little bar of links, right under where it says forestry forum gallery, and click on 'my gallery', like you were just going there to look at the pictures.  Then, either click one of your albums and find the pictures you want to post, or you can just scroll down and look for the picture you want to post.  Click on the picture.  Now it opens up a bigger screen with the picture you clicked on enlarged.  Just below it you'll see a box that looks like you can type in it because you can.  Now take out a pencil and write that code down on a piece of paper.  Then go to the regular post box, and type the code in exactly how it was originally written, minding capitals and lower cases.  Then press post and you're done!
Boy, back in my day..

gms1911

After moving my mother into her new house, I got to work on the mill for a couple hours today. Any luck and I will get to fab an engine stand for the Kubota tomorrow. I think I'm going to add some uprights on the back. I was hoping  that it would work like it is built, but there is way to much flex. So 4 instead of 2. I also might lower the height of it a bit too. It's all tac welded for now. I didn't want to go all out and weld it up solid until I am sure it will work like planned.  Got my acme rod in yesterday so I'm wanting to get that all figured out and installed. Its a 1/8" per turn. Any suggestions on sprocket sizes?  Might take a trip to tractor supply tomorrow to get a good idea on sprockets. Won't buy there but I can at least put my hands on them there.

Thanks for all the replies so far. I enjoy reading all of it.

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: 4x4American on March 31, 2016, 09:37:24 PM
After you add the pictures to your gallery, forget that confusing page it brings you to, look on the little bar of links, right under where it says forestry forum gallery, and click on 'my gallery', like you were just going there to look at the pictures.  Then, either click one of your albums and find the pictures you want to post, or you can just scroll down and look for the picture you want to post.  Click on the picture.  Now it opens up a bigger screen with the picture you clicked on enlarged.  Just below it you'll see a box that looks like you can type in it because you can.  Now take out a pencil and write that code down on a piece of paper.  Then go to the regular post box, and type the code in exactly how it was originally written, minding capitals and lower cases.  Then press post and you're done!

No need for a pencil!  Just go to the bottom of that page and you will see a blue/grey box that says "Insert image in post".  A dialog box will pop up and you hit Yes.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

scully

Awesome build ! What I am seeing here is pure genius !  I'm looking forward to seeing this in action ! Love the floor jack idea !
I bleed orange  .

Ox

Gearing for chains and sprockets is pretty easy.  Just counting teeth on the sprockets is all there is to it.  You have 1/8" per turn right now, so put (for example) a 10 tooth sprocket on your acme rod and use a 20 tooth sprocket hooked to a jackshaft and crank handle to turn the 10 tooth sprocket.  You now doubled your turns at the acme rod and every turn of the handle will turn the acme rod twice.  Every turn of the handle will give you 1/4".  If you used a 40 tooth sprocket on the handle, every turn will give you 1/2" of travel (1/8" x 4).  I have mine set at 1/4" per turn, using threaded rod as a shaft for my crank handle and #40 chain.  I bought the sprockets and chain through McMaster Carr because their selection and prices are pretty good.  Surplus Center may have what you need at even better prices.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: 4x4American on March 31, 2016, 09:37:24 PM
After you add the pictures to your gallery, forget that confusing stuff that 4x4 wrote and do what ljohnsaw wrote page it brings you to, look on the little bar of links, right under where it says forestry forum gallery, and click on 'my gallery', like you were just going there to look at the pictures.  Then, either click one of your albums and find the pictures you want to post, or you can just scroll down and look for the picture you want to post.  Click on the picture.  Now it opens up a bigger screen with the picture you clicked on enlarged.  Just below it you'll see a box that looks like you can type in it because you can.  Now take out a pencil and write that code down on a piece of paper.  Then go to the regular post box, and type the code in exactly how it was originally written, minding capitals and lower cases.  Then press post and you're done!

;D
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

gms1911

So......I didn't get done, but made a lot of progress. Then cut it apart built it again cut it apart and built it a 3rd time. Shew.......I thought I thought threw it and had a plan. Main problem was when I added the back uprights and boxed it in it wasn't square. Come to find out I had one leg that was about 1/4 inch shorter then the other. Man that cost a lot of time and work. But its all Square and plum and level now.

Added the acme rod and they work nicely. Need some advice on the thrust bearings. I don't want to just leave the rod resting on the angle at the bottom. I was thinking thrust bearings sandwiched between a couple of washers. What do ya'll think? 1" rod so I'm thinking 7/8 washers? Well here is a few pix. Oh yeah, I swear when I started my Kubota up it was clockwise looking from the rear. So that's how I built the mill. Guess what? Old Murphy has been hanging around. It was ccw. So I had to redo that too. But that wasn't to hard. I've learned to takc everything in place then come back after I know its going to work and weld it up.

Kbeitz

Thrust bearings comes with hardened washers. You could use a throw out bearing.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

I used hangar bearings for the bottom.  Just like a pillow block, different orientation.  Not bad price wise either.  They don't need to be American bearings for this application, the Chinese ones will be fine.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

gms1911

Thanks Kbeitz. I didn't even think about using throw out bearings. I'll have to look into that. If mine turns out half as nice as yours I'll be happy and figure it was a success.

Kbeitz

If you want cheap just put a brass plate under it.
If you got to your local junkyard it should be easy to find a throw out bearing in the engine pile.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

How about some old lawnmower deck spindles off a junker lawn tractor?  There's decent bearings inside there.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Kbeitz

Quote from: Ox on April 13, 2016, 08:39:41 AM
How about some old lawnmower deck spindles off a junker lawn tractor?  There's decent bearings inside there.

They are not made to take side a force. Wont last long.

Whats meeded is something like a "Banded Ball Thrust Bearing"
It's sealed to keep the dirt out.
E-bay has them.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

JRWoodchuck

I machined my ACME rod down to 3/4 on the end and they are resting in 1500lbs trailer axle bearings to support the weight.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

drobertson

looks like fun,, I can smell the grinding dust and weld smoke from here! ;D  not to mention the sawdust between the ears a burning :D  thanks for sharing your build.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Kbeitz

Quote from: JRWoodchuck on April 14, 2016, 01:32:31 PM
I machined my ACME rod down to 3/4 on the end and they are resting in 1500lbs trailer axle bearings to support the weight.

Trailer axles have tapered bearing and are made to take side thrust pressure.
They should work great.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

outpost22

You're doing a great job. It's fun to see what people come up with. I don't know what your plan is to "roll" your cutter on but I thought this picture may help you. The mill is basically an "I-beam" frame with angle iron (turned edge up) on top. The angle is used to rest the cutting heads rollers on which are basically about a 2"-3" diameter grooved wheel. It actually rolls very easily-sometimes too easily  ::)  The dog bars are basically tubing (probably 2" with the dogs slightly larger round stock with flatbar welded to use as dogs. They have a nut welded on the tubing with a threaded "T" handle bolt used to tighten the dogs down.  It's rather crude but simple and easy to work on. I suspect your mill will be quite the jewel when you're finished.  8)
Hope this helps a little:

Creating one more project one at a time.
Burg Bandsaw Mill
Stihl 010
Stihl 210
Stihl 251
Stihl 461
Husky 350
Kubota L3800

thecfarm

outpost22,you mean like this.  ;D



 

Kinda the same thing that you did. You can see my lock to keep the head from moving when the wind is blowing.   ;)  It's only finger tight,but keeps it in place.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

gms1911

Thanks for the ideas. I ended up going with a sealed 1" thrust bearing. I ran a nut up the rod so that about a 1/4" of thread was showing and tacked the nut to the rod. So the nut rest on the bearing and the rod keeps it form ever walking.

I welded 1" angle upside down for my track. It runs very smooth. Except for a few of the crossmembers that I guess I cut just a smidge to long. So the casters hit them. Still works, but I will grind the edges off so there is no contact.

I should have the sprockets and chain mounted and will be working on the motor for the raise and lower tonight.

I really enjoy all the different ways everyone comes up with to solve a problem. I'll post more pix tonight or tomorrow.

Ox

Quote:  "I really enjoy all the different ways everyone comes up with to solve a problem."

This is why I absolutely love this place.  All the nice folks from all different walks of life contributing ideas, thoughts and experience makes me very confident that there isn't anything that can't be tackled and solved in these pages.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

outpost22

Quote from: thecfarm on April 14, 2016, 08:55:28 PM
outpost22,you mean like this.  ;D



 

Kinda the same thing that you did. You can see my lock to keep the head from moving when the wind is blowing.   ;)  It's only finger tight,but keeps it in place.

That's too funny :D
I like your lock better than mine. I just use 2 wood wedges to chock the wheels. This is AFTER I found the cutter all the way down 30' at the opposite end one morning due to a wind storm  :o  I tarp this unit until I get my cover built. It works like a sail  >:(
Creating one more project one at a time.
Burg Bandsaw Mill
Stihl 010
Stihl 210
Stihl 251
Stihl 461
Husky 350
Kubota L3800

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