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Detroit 353 loud knock

Started by Plankton, February 26, 2016, 12:43:08 PM

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sandsawmill14

i like chevys the best but i drive whats cheap ;D
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

grassfed

Ok so you dropped it off at RCS as a core, are they going to tell you what broke? I'm curious.
Mike

Plankton

I forgot to ask when I was dropping it off but I'm going to see if they can call me when they find out. I'm pretty curious myself. Going to be funny when it's something minor haha

Plankton

Spoke with the shop today, motor dropped 3 valves hammered a pretty good hole in a piston. Apparently there were peices of the valves sitting on top of the pistons and a peice in the exhaust. Bent a rod and the head was in bad shape aswell.

Two much different with the rebuilt engine they had so they did a complete rebuild on mine for the same price. Replaced/rebuilt pretty much everything but the crank which was in good shape. Apparently the engine wasn't on its last legs but most of the parts were worn pretty good.

Tuning and painting now, should be ready for pickup tommorow. :)

s grinder

Plankton,You did the right thing,just pull it out, get it fixed,reinstall,and get back in the woods and make some money,rather that cry about it for a week,asking questions,not listening to anybody and taking pictures.Just do it and [ get er done].

Logger RK

I bought a rebuilt 453 last spring & by the time I was done swapping everything over I would've been better off  rebuilding the one I had. I wasn't to satisfied with there's much.  >:( But live & learn.

rockwall

Sounds like a you did the right thing. It's good to know there are good mechanics around that will help you out. Now to hear that Detroit scream, music to the ears!

Plankton

Ended up getting home with the motor after dark on friday, between a morning parts and fluids run and an afternoon parts run to pick up stuff they had to order me and my dad still got it all in except for the fuel return line (needed a fitting) and the muffler and some panels.

We also replaced most of the bolts for the engine and the roll cage.

The shop had the oil filter pointing down so I had to pull that off and turn it sideways, they gave me a fresh gasket though.

I took a lot of extra time to scrape 5 gals of Grease out of the engine bay and putting loom around all the wiring but it was worth it.

Here's some photos of the shiny new engine!








Plankton

Also does anybody know the correct break in procedure for a new detroit, shop gave me oil change intervals to start but I forgot ask them anything about break in.

I'm going to call them on Monday see what they have to say but figured a few of you guys have been in my shoes before as well.

Thanks again for all the help and advice, this forum is a great resource!

Ed_K

 I was told to run mine the way I ran it before rebuild. I changed oil at 50-150-250 then I changed at 200 like before.
Ed K

jd540b

Just run it hard-limit time it just sits and idles.

David-L

I have had good luck running mono-grade oil in 2 stroke Detroits. 30wt in the colder months and 40wt in the warmer months. CF-2 rating is the Detroit spec with 1.0 or lower ash content. I ran Mobil 1240 ( 40wt ) and it was a great oil. The multi grades don't have the stand up to a 2 stroke motor and can prematurely lessen the motor life. Some will say thats bull, but going by the book isn't a bad thing IMO. Good luck. Rotella makes those straight grades also.
In two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.

grassfed

If the shop did the tune up and run in, you want to run it with about 80% load and limit idle time like others said.  If it starts to lug with 5 trees then hitch 4, if it lugs with 10 trees then hitch 8 and so on; this will keep it pulling at around 80% load and that is where diesels like to run. 
Mike

treeslayer2003

plankton how did the drive ring look? run in, no lugging, no idleing for long. spin her up when loaded.

coxy

Quote from: coxy on February 26, 2016, 04:48:26 PM
it may have broke a valve and its hammering on top of the piston they are good for that
8) 8) 8) :D :D :D run it like you stole it  don't lug it

Logger RK

I was told to run it pretty hard & not to baby it. So the rings seat good.

Plankton

Cool, so sounds like break in is pretty much run normally keeping an eye on idling and overloading.

Been running it today, installed a hourmeter for kicks so I can keep track of oil changes better. Very happy with the power seems like twice that of my old engine!

One thing is it appears to not be cooling as well as before. Unless my gauge got messed up in the shuffle, the temp will climb up to 190 and hover there. Before it would hit 190 then slowly drop to 150 ir so then climb and repeat etc.

Does this sound like typical air in the system? I bled it thoroughly I think, no more air when I squeeze the hose or idling on a slope..

I'm not going to worry about it for now unless it goes over that.

Treeslayer: I unfortunatly didn't get to see the fiber gear because I dropped the motor off as one unit and got it back the same way. Knowing my luck that's the next thing to go haha

millcreek40

If it has a 190 thermostat it should stay at 190
Two 240A Timberjacks, Mack log truck, Multitek 2040 wood processor.

Ed_K

 Mine stays right at 190 winter or summer.
Ed K

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