Privacy Fence Ideas using green SYP

Kipper · February 23, 2016, 12:25:31 PM

Anyone have any ideas on privacy fence designs using green SYP? I want to build a new fence around our house to replace the 6ft privacy fence. Was thinking about a board and batten design but not sure.

WV Sawmiller · February 23, 2016, 12:36:16 PM

Kipper,

What are you using for the posts? Pine will rot quickly so I'd be sure to use treated or locust wood or such that will last longer.

Are you going to paint the wood? If not I don' think it will last long. I think I'd put it up and let it dry several months before painting to help make the paint stick. I'd also cut the board ends on a bevel to help shed water. If using B&B I have seen people suggest attach the battens on one side only at first. After they have dried well then attach the other side. Be sure to use galvanized nails or deck screws or you will have rust streaks down the boards in short order (Don't ask me how I know that).

Good luck.

Kipper · February 23, 2016, 01:11:38 PM

All good points. Yes, treated posts and a 2x6 treated board to run the perimeter at the bottom to act as a sacrificial "rot" board as it will be in contact with the ground. Yes, I plan to stain it after it has had time to dry in place. I was thinking of the board and batten design and then adding like a shelf board across the top to keep the ends of the boards from getting hit with UV and rain directly.

ncsawyer · February 23, 2016, 01:16:33 PM

The "shelf board" on top will add to the stability of the fence as well. Like WV said, pine does not stand up to weather too well. Most folks that use it for fence use that black asphalt paint around here.

I would be a little concerned about the board and batten design. Where the boards overlap will hold moisture and encourage decay. Cypress would be a good choice for that type of project.

Deese · February 23, 2016, 02:51:15 PM

I've got a black wooden fence around my place. Every couple years I will mix roughly 60% NON FIBERED foundation coating (non fibered tar) and 40% diesel fuel and paint it on. Be sure to wear some old clothes ;D

Magicman · February 23, 2016, 02:53:04 PM

Simply stated, I would not build a fence out of Pine nor Cypress. White or Post Oak would be a much better choice.

ncsawyer · February 23, 2016, 03:39:26 PM

Quote from: Magicman on February 23, 2016, 02:53:04 PM
Simply stated, I would not build a fence out of Pine nor Cypress. White or Post Oak would be a much better choice.

For a coral fence where a bull might be running into it, white oak would definitely be my first choice. It is much stronger than cypress or pine. But for a privacy fence that won't take any abuse except for the weather, I think cypress would be a very legitimate choice. As long as cypress is not in contact with the ground it should last many years even without some type of treatment.

I built a board fence out of cypress 10 years ago (I used treated posts) and it is still in good shape.

Deese · February 23, 2016, 03:48:44 PM

QuoteI think cypress would be a very legitimate choice. As long as cypress is not in contact with the ground it should last many years even without some type of treatment.

x2

Kbeitz · February 23, 2016, 04:47:28 PM

Quote from: Deese on February 23, 2016, 02:51:15 PM
I've got a black wooden fence around my place. Every couple years I will mix roughly 60% NON FIBERED foundation coating (non fibered tar) and 40% diesel fuel and paint it on. Be sure to wear some old clothes ;D

Yes that really works.... It's what I use. This was built 15 years ago with soft pine and coated like above.

Magicman · February 23, 2016, 05:08:30 PM

The majority of today's Cypress lumber is sawn from logs no larger than ~24" and contain very little heartwood. Cypress sapwood is not much more rot resistant than SYP.

During each year, I saw plenty of it to be used inside as wall paneling, etc. The log size and lack of heartwood is very evident in many of the above pictured logs.

elk42 · February 23, 2016, 05:26:29 PM

kipper
It takes old growth cypress to be rot resistance. Even the heart wood from young
growth cypress is not much better than loblolly pine for outdoor use. White oak or post oak would be better.

ncsawyer · February 23, 2016, 06:04:37 PM

Ah I see, MM, some of those are indeed "baby" cypress. The cypress I have cut have been much larger. The last ones were out in the middle of a swamp and the power line folks cut them down and left them in the swamp beside my father-in-law's farm. I mean really nice 30+ inch logs. We had to come a good ways up the tree to get the butt swell cut off so we could mill.

I put on a pair of waders and drug a cable out and hooked to them and we snaked them out. Filled my waders up...thought I would drown before I ever got out of there. :D

Kbeitz · February 23, 2016, 06:13:11 PM

Liveing in the swamp and you dont have a swamp buggy ?

Magicman · February 23, 2016, 06:48:03 PM

This one was 45".

But I Bibby'ed it down to fit. Even so, I doubt that there was over 18" of heartwood in the top end.

Old growth SYP had very dense hearts that were very "fatty" and would not rot, same as old growth Cypress. Finding either is a very rare occurrence in today's world.

Kipper · February 23, 2016, 06:57:20 PM

I have about 15000 bdft of SYP to cut before it goes bad and no cypress or white oak to speak of. I figured if it works so well for siding on barns around here it should work ok for my fence?

landscraper · February 23, 2016, 06:59:44 PM

Quote from: ncsawyer on February 23, 2016, 06:04:37 PM
...middle of a swamp ... we snaked them out.

When you say "swamp" and "snaked" I think cottonmouth not cypress.

Magicman · February 23, 2016, 07:06:24 PM

Buildings have overhang, but even then the splash up from the runoff will rot the bottoms of the boards. I just looked at a building two weeks ago that was built in 2013 and was sided with SYP board and batten. The bottom 12"-14" of the boards on the back of the building had rotted. I was shocked that it had happened that quickly.

drobertson · February 23, 2016, 07:08:13 PM

Read the first few posts, blew past the rest,, and yes it will work, mud and splash is the killer, seen more barns and sheds and fences, for years using pine for siding. mud and splash is a killer as is with every other wood, there is the choice of thin stuff, or thick, If it were me, I would go with the 1-1/8" heavy, whether it was for personal or for sale. The bat thing has me scratching my head, but if that much privacy is needed then by all means go heavy,, it will last, all but the bottoms,, and that goes for any wood, really, just saying,,

Kipper · February 23, 2016, 07:42:36 PM

I wasn't thinking about the splash, thats a real good point. I was thinking of using a treated 2x6 for the bottom (run it horizontal) kinda like a sacrificial board but now I am thinking maybe I will just cut a 1x10 and use it. If i have to replace it every 3-4 years that wouldn't be bad if it gave me a splash board. ???

Magicman · February 23, 2016, 07:58:33 PM

Realizing that you would have to regularly replace it and since you have access to SYP, go for it. 8)

KirkD · February 23, 2016, 08:18:53 PM

Quote from: ncsawyer on February 23, 2016, 03:39:26 PM
Quote from: Magicman on February 23, 2016, 02:53:04 PM
Simply stated, I would not build a fence out of Pine nor Cypress. White or Post Oak would be a much better choice.

For a coral fence where a bull might be running into it, white oak would definitely be my first choice. It is much stronger than cypress or pine. But for a privacy fence that won't take any abuse except for the weather, I think cypress would be a very legitimate choice. As long as cypress is not in contact with the ground it should last many years even without some type of treatment.

I built a board fence out of cypress 10 years ago (I used treated posts) and it is still in good shape.

If a bull can't get through it they go over it. :D

ncsawyer · February 23, 2016, 08:34:49 PM

Quote from: Kipper on February 23, 2016, 06:57:20 PM
I have about 15000 bdft of SYP to cut before it goes bad and no cypress or white oak to speak of. I figured if it works so well for siding on barns around here it should work ok for my fence?

Use it if you've got it...sounds like a good plan to me. You should get good service out of the pine if you start out with good solid boards and use something like Kbeitz used on his. I have even seen people paint burnt motor oil on an old barn with pine siding. The barn is black and been there a lot longer than I have been alive.

ncsawyer · February 23, 2016, 08:48:13 PM

Quote from: Magicman on February 23, 2016, 06:48:03 PM

This one was 45".

But I Bibby'ed it down to fit. Even so, I doubt that there was over 18" of heartwood in the top end.

Old growth SYP had very dense hearts that were very "fatty" and would not rot, same as old growth Cypress. Finding either is a very rare occurrence in today's world.

That is certainly a biggun there MM. The only "fatty" pine I see is around here is usually an old injury on the loblolly that are so prevalent. The longleafs were more likely, if left to mature, to generate heartwood pine.

I sawed some old dead longleafs the other day that had been tapped for turpentine many years ago that were pure fat lightard, but the sapwood on those trees had a lot more concentration of sap and was preserved much better than the heart wood. Most of the heart had actually rotted. These trees had probably been dead for over 100 years.

The saw blade also told the story on that job. It would gum up very badly on cuts near the outside of the tree, but as you neared the center of the log the blade performance improved with less gumming issues.