Husqvarna 562 adventures.... Learning!!

weimedog · February 19, 2016, 10:12:13 AM

Started with an early one with a wasted bearing..

I did need and use the Husqvarna Shop tool to split those cases BTW:

weimedog · February 19, 2016, 10:13:46 AM

Tore it down and salvaged what I could.... started the resurrection with a "pop up" piston mod...

weimedog · February 19, 2016, 10:16:24 AM

Upgraded the el44 to an el48

weimedog · February 19, 2016, 10:17:16 AM

Used new "six screw" cases....

weimedog · February 19, 2016, 10:28:26 AM

So summary is pop up piston with a net of .018in squish. Partially gutted muffler with a 5/8 dia. 2in long tube.
New el48and new ignition. New 6 screw cases. It runs.... is louder than the first two with popups with opened muffler at "stock" location under the deflector. Don't know yet if this moves things forwards or backwards yet.

I used the roughest muffler from the junk pile to test a theory...if it works?? I'll add that to the repertoire. if not...back to just opening the stock muffler under the deflector like iteration one and two.

Iteration "2" was also a no base gasket popup build but has 2 degrees of duration added to the intake....couldn't tell much difference one way or the other. It also was pretty much the same as the first one that I have in the video with .020in squish. The difference between the first and second was as I said was negligible. This iteration three has that same intake duration change along with the muffler mod. Will it move ahead?? maybe...maybe not. I can rationalize reasons for both results. This muffler mod was about heat and I'm afraid the heat is retained for combustion efficiency on the stocker so I could actually loose power by taking that heat out of the system...that's what this exercise is about for me.

Depending on what happens with this saw will set the direction for the NEXT one...iteration four! Have two sets of cases for that saw, one new 6 screw set and one good 5 screw set. I think I will use the 5 screw with new bearings and seals. Also want to use that one to try a tweak to the transfers.. and also a more complete muffler mod depending on how this version 3 reacts.... like I said. Learning...just trying stuff to hunt for trends.

Like the cover to "Street Outlaws" says... don't do this stuff at home! I really don't know if these mods are solid yet. The popup is...and that along with opening up the exit of the stock exhaust does make a worth while improvement... but the intake mod and the gutted muffler...don't know. So until I do, its a proof of concept build.

One thing I do know, is if this muffler adds vs. subtracts, the next one will get an exit pipe rotated to point more to the pto side than this one. I have more room there that I thought during the "mock up". It will be more down and to the side than this first one...more like I do on 372's.

snowshoveler · February 19, 2016, 05:04:17 PM

Thanks for the pics and explanations of what your up to.
Did you use stock type bearings.
How many hours on the 1 that melted its bearings.
Regards Chris

WV Mountaineer · February 21, 2016, 06:42:16 PM

I'll be following this. Thanks and God Bless

weimedog · February 21, 2016, 06:50:10 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_Xujth3jPg

XP_Slinger · February 21, 2016, 07:21:41 PM

Good thread, thanks for sharing

woodsdog2015 · February 26, 2016, 03:36:19 PM

Can you explain the "squish" and "base gasket" terms? I watch your vidoes on you tube as well. Good stuff but I'm a little lost as I don't really work on these chainsaws but I find them fascinating and want to learn more. Anyone have any recommendations (besides the owners manuals) on any more in depth books or information on chainsaws and their maintenance upkeep etc??

weimedog · February 27, 2016, 10:49:36 AM

Squish equals the distance at top dead center between the piston crown and "squish band" of the combustion chamber. When you look at the combustion chamber there is that area from the out side diameter into the chamber itself and that is the squish band area.

Base gasket is the gasket between the cylinder casting and the cases on saws where that dividing line requires one.

woodjunky · February 27, 2016, 10:57:34 AM

dang. I just bought a 562 around new years time.... Then you all get into the discussion of blown bearing..........Bad timing i guess...

I always run my gas rich. But i also sometimes scream through a log, cleaning out the laterals in a full scribe. We will see how it goes.

weimedog · February 27, 2016, 11:58:43 AM

Quote from: woodjunky on February 27, 2016, 10:57:34 AM
dang. I just bought a 562 around new years time.... Then you all get into the discussion of blown bearing..........Bad timing i guess...

I always run my gas rich. But i also sometimes scream through a log, cleaning out the laterals in a full scribe. We will see how it goes.

You aren't going to have a problem with bearings! Not with a new saw and especially if you run 32:1 to 40:1 range with a good synthetic 2 stroke oil like the Husqvarna XP synthetic! The saws I have are ones from pro loggers who bought them in the 2012 time frame and have run them non stop since that time in some of the worst conditions possible. One so dirty with the fins all packed with crud I don't understand how it cooled itself and even lasted a day. And most from that same era/original purchase lot are still out there cutting. Only god knows how much time they have. So enjoy that saw and don't worry about bearing issues.

Another way to see this is as a "hobbiest" I always look for junkers...dead saws or those saws at the end of their service life. And with these 562's saws, several years after their introduction; I am just now beginning to see them turn up worn out. In addition, the new ones are evolved vs. the first year or so. Husqvarna has gone thru a steady product improvement process and the saws they are selling now have the benefit of several years of customer/dealer feedback. The earliest saw obviously were pretty good as now several years later, mostly with the pro level user; they are still great saws and can be built to the latest standards. AND remember there is a statistical chance any thing manufactured has a percentage of failures. MOST of those original 562's are still out there making chips, and most of the old ones can be upgraded to the important changes so even with an old version, up graded to things like the el48 version of the carb is going to make life better. So don't do that buyers remorse thing... you have a great saw. I would be more concerned buying the FIRST iteration of a new saw design from any manufacturer vs. a mature product like those 562's are now. So in reality you buying a 562 saw now is great timing.

Might have to do a short video explaining that as a third way to look at this is...I can buy, have, and/or build any saw built from any manufacturer on the planet from any time period... period. This year I choose these 562's to invest time into because I like them and they are worth the effort. If they weren't both a lot of fun and a great saw I wouldn't waste my time with them..as when u are as old as I am, you don't HAVE a lot of time left! SO you spend it carefully and I choose to spend it with 562's. How's that? Putting my time where my heart is? A more intense version of putting my money where my mouth is... Husqvarna 562xp, earning its way to being one of my all time favorites. When you consider that's along side saws like those in the 372 series and 242 series, that's quite a tall order. But the 555 is still the best firewood saw money can buy..