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problem with Stihl 038 AV Super

Started by Ejdb, February 08, 2016, 07:07:23 AM

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Ejdb

Thank you guys for this helpful info.

There is no play on the crankshaft so I will not open up the crankcase.

One other thing....you advice to clean and lube the bearing.....would that be the crank bearing? As I don't see how to clean an lube that without openIng the case? Or do you mean the clutch needle bearing?

Furthermore I could not discover any hose connected to the oil pump?

The intakeboot I replaced although the original was still in one piece.

Ordered some parts which I hope come in this WE so I have something to play on.

Will let you know if my progress!
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

limbwood

with the seal blown apart like that I would spray some cleaner into side of bearing after you remove the rest of the seal, and then blow it out with compessed air, then dump a little mix oil on it and spin a few times to get it coated good.

Ejdb

And she is getting cleaner and cleaner.......



 



  



 



 



 


Took me quite a while to get al the dried oil off......but im getting there.... ;D

you can see that the blown seal did some damage in the clutch area but the clutch seat is still in good shape so i take it that'll still be fine....

A friend borrowed me an endoscope camera that i used to check the inside of the engine and that still looks perfect!!!

Unfortunately the dealer told me today im not getting my parts until Tuesday........aaaarghhh.....what should i do now this weekend????

He also told me the oilpump-gasket is not available at all anymore.....that surprised me as i thought i had seen it somewhere on the web.....so im gonna check for that one.

One more question before i call it a day (01:20 overhere) : the oilpump itself....does it have any seals/o-rings that can/should be replaced?


Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

ok, back to business after having to first spend time on my car that let me down......

anyway...ready to put the old 038 back together.

i had put in an new oilseal already so now wanted to put back the clutch....thats where i ran into an issue:

When i look at the ipl i see a washer between the oilseal and the clutch. I cant recall this washer was installed when i took it apart. (#1 in pic)



 



 



 



 

After i lock the threestar nut i can push down the clutch parts. Could this be because of worn springs? should the clutch be really snugfit on that locknut or is this normal and will they stay in place because of the centrifugal force?

To better illustrate what i mean i have uploaded a short video on YouTube here:

https://youtu.be/WY6JkWDJU0U

doesn't look good to me...but maybe i am just missing something

advice wanted please....



Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Al_Smith

It's probably normal, I wouldn't be too concerned about it .

I think that washer thing  is to stop chips. dirt etc from destroying  the oil seal .Stihl part number 1119-162-8915.Somebody probably had the clutch off at one time and forgot to put it back on .Should be available through a dealer I would think .

HolmenTree

You need the washer installed between the clutch and crankshaft seal. The washer not only protects the seal but helps keep the clutch shoes in place too. That's why you're able to push the clutch shoes inward like that.
Get the washer.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

joe_indi

You rally need that washer for the reasons Willard gave, plus, I think you really need to change that clutch or at least the clutch carrier. When you can slip the shoes onto the carrier that easily, it needs replacing.
Joe

Ejdb

OK thank you guys. ..I will get myself a washer and a new clutch before I go any further.
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

HolmenTree

Check the fit of the shoes on the hub if it's sloppy. I think all you need is new springs which are cheap to buy.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Ejdb

That's what I thought too.....ordered a washer and new springs. ....should arrive tomorrow
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

It took me a while but i finally got it all back together. Put in oil and gas and gave a couple of pulls.......nothing.......

when i took the cover off i noticed the airfilter had become wet.....i guess that gas.....

Does anyone have a suggestion of what might be wrong here?

Ill continue my quest tomorrow as it is 2 am out here......

Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

Hmm this morning I went to check the saw and is noticed there was gas that had leaked out of it......a small puddle of gas of approx 20x20cm.....mainly laying on the right side (clutch side) of the saw.

What would.be the most obvious reason for this gas leaking??

Can t check now as I have to get my son's to Soccer.

Will continue this afternoon
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

BTW. ....before I took this saw apart it didn't leak any gas......
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

OK. ...the majority of the gas leak was caused by a worn out rubbet sealing on the tank cap.

But still I can't get it.to.run....the screen of the aitfilter gets wet when trying to start. I hear a hissing sound coming from the carb area when I slowly pull the rope.....so I'll start searching for airless there...

I did check the plug and it has a nice powerful spark. So electronically it should be fine....

I more and more get the feeling someone messed up the maintenance on this saw earlier.....

Ill take.apart the carb again and double check that I put everything back in properly when I first started with the rebuild.

I am also thinking about buying another carb.....but the ones I can get for this saw all have this extra little pipe on the carb that my original.one doesn't have. Can I just replace it or do I need to take other things into consideration in that case as well?
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Hiway40frank

Having similar pronlems with my dolmar133 the only difference is i can get mine running on half throttle and half choke. It leaks gas where the fuel line meets the tank valve and i cant figure out the exact leak. Replaces lines and valve and still leaks. Wont idle or start unless on half throttle. At this point since you mentioned the smoke maybe you fried the magnito or coil? Just because you see spark does not mean you are getting the right timing or proper current. Do you have a plug tester? The next thing i would do is make sure your not flodding it.

Al_Smith

That little"pipe" thing is the diaphragm chamber cover for an "intellicarb" used on more modern saws .It just an atmospheric vent that  the more modern assembly uses and limits the amount of fuel the engine gets if the air filter becomes plugged .It will run with that thing but it might fill full of tiny bits of sawdust given an amount of time .It most likely could be replaced with a standard cover .

Having said that ,it's probably something simple.Although nearly impossible to trouble shoot over the internet it could be several things .One if the carb has not been rebuilt,do so.Trying to get a saw to run with old stiff carb innards is like trying  to walk on water .

That done it could be assembled out of order, did  that myself .It could have the fuel lever shut off set too high,did that too ,more than once I might add .

Ejdb

OK, ik will take my carb apart again and check to see if i did put in the membranes properly.

Can you explain what the "fuel lever shut off" is exactly? Is that inside the carb? (probably a real NOOB question...)

What i suspect now is actually the fuel line connection on the carb. When i put the carb back and tried to connect te fuel line i had to put in into an impossible bend to hook it up to the connector. So i took a number 8 key and tried to see if i could move it into another position. I managed to do that but now i wonder if i now accidentally created a leak in that carb. Ill try to shoot some pictures tonight to better explain what i mean
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Al_Smith


Can you explain what the "fuel lever shut off" is exactly?------Your post ,Feb 14 second picture from the bottom of the post .The little metal thing in the middle  of the piece.

Best I can explain it .I would have moved the pic here but I'm somewhat of a computer idiot .

At any rate if that thing is adjusted too low it won't allow the fuel in ,if it's too high it will flood the engine .

Ejdb

OK,  I get it.....but now the million $  question is:  How can I check/adjust if it too high/too low?
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Al_Smith

As a rule you set the lever to be level with the floor of the base .Some times it might need to be slightly below ,not much.The little metal  protrussion of the diaphragm is what operates the valve via the lever .

At any rate the needle valve has to be fully closed when the diaphragm is in a relaxed condition or else it will flood .

If you want you can u-tube how to set up that carb ,they say a picture is worth a thousand words.

joe_indi

If you plan doing this often, invest in a purger (aka fuel primer) of the kind that comes on brushcutters and some chainsaws. Connect the outlet of the purger to your carb (with the metering diaphragm removed). Fit the fuel hose of your saw to the inlet of the purger. Depress the metering lever of the carb and pump the purger till fuel spurts out at the carb. Release the metering lever, wipe off the fuel and press the purger bulb. If the metering lever is holding no fuel will be visible. Now close down the carb. Pump the purger. If there is any fuel coming through the carb the lever is too high.
Simple.
Joe

HolmenTree

Check the tip of the metering needle, if it's rubber look to see if there is a groove worn around its surface. If there is then replace it with a new needle.

On the metering needle lever it takes a little more then looking at it to see if the lever is level with the floor of the carb.
Hold the needle down in its seat with one finger, with a finger on your other hand gently push down on the end of the lever being careful not to distort it. If it's above the floor push down to bend it until it is level.
If it's below the floor then bend it up with your finger nail until level.
Remember the whole time keep the metering needle seated in its seat with your other hand.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Ejdb

 

 

So just to be sure I took the carb apart again....everything was installed in the right order.  The only thing I noticed is that the metal ring on the membrane that I got in my rebuild set is a bit smaller than on the original membrane.....is that a problem that might cause trouble? You can see both in the picture
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

Eureka!!! It runs!!!! One pull!!

I put the carb back with the new membrane and the only thing I changed was the elbow to which the fuelline is connected. That had come loose a bit. So i tried if I could pull it out....I could. ...and put it back in firmly. Probably there was a major airleak there.

Anyway I switched it off after 5 secs as it is 01.30 am and I wanna stay friends with my neighbour's haha...

So tomorrow at break of dawn I will give it a proper testrun and see how it'll hold.......

For now....I'm a happy camper!!
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

It runs instantly.....now just have to figure out how to tune the carb. When idle it runs a bit rough.

Also it looks like the oil pump is giving away quite a lot of oil. ....can you adjust that with the screw on the bottom.....clockwise=less?? Haven't tried it yet
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

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