iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

problem with Stihl 038 AV Super

Started by Ejdb, February 08, 2016, 07:07:23 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Ejdb

Hi there! a quick note from the Netherlands here:

About a year ago I have bought a Stihl 038  AV Super chainsaw that had been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years doing nothing. After changing the old fuel and replacing the old oil i'd managed to get it up and running quite easily. At first it was a bit difficult to get it up and running but after i replaced the old fule for new Aspen fuel it fired up nicely.

Anyway it worked fine and i have been able to cut a couple of logs into pieces when all of a sudden  i noticed  power-decrease, smoke coming from the muffler and then it stopped. No way to get it back up and running.

I suspected a ruined piston and/or cilinder but when i inspected them via the muffler side and the sparkplug side they seemed to look nice and clean and no real wear and tear. The piston also moves nicely in  the cilinder.

Not having enough time to spend on it i let it sit for a couple of months but yesterday i tried firing it up again but nogo.

I removed the plug to check the spark which was okayish, not the brightest blue spark but stil decent. What i thought was strange is that the plug was completely dry! So i suspect a fuel issue here. What i tried is to pour some fuel into the cilinder via the sparkplug hole. installed the plug and tried to fire it up. It did give some reaction and it sounded like it tried to start but only a couple of puffs and that was it (which isn't strange with only a bit of fuel in the cilinder)

Now my question is......where to start? is this a carb issue? and if so should i just replace it or rebuild it. or is there something else im not seeing?

Just to be complete...i did notice just a little bit of oil leackage on the bottom of the saw....but nothing a piced of newspaper cant handle.

Hope you guys can give a some tips and tricks on where to start with this machine as it would be a shame to leave it unused!.......and besides that i must say i really like to dig in to these kind of issues and thats why im glad i found this forum, beacuse surprisingly i could hardly find any info here in the Netherlands that  would give a proper direction.

Looking forward to hear from you guys!

Evert
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

old2stroke

Sounds like you have a fuel starvation issue.  Since it stopped suddenly while running, it is not likely the carb.  With a saw that has been sitting around for a long time, the first thing to look for is a cracked or broken fuel line.  If that saw has a separate impulse line for the carb, that would be another thing to check. If these items are good then it would time to check the function of the fuel tank vent and other less likely things. These fuel starvation faults are very important to find and fix, running a saw with leaned out air/fuel mix can quickly cause serious damage.
A bit of oil drooling from the base of the bar is normal.
Not too many saws.  Not enough storage space.

RIDE-RED 350r

Agree with old2stroke...

I just recently did some work on an 038 Super AV for a friend. These saws are getting pretty long in the tooth and the rubber parts are sure to be getting quite aged as well.

Get yourself a new fuel line, fuel filter, and tank vent to start. Now the fuel tank vent is a little strange. If you remove the air filter cover and air filter, you will see a small line fitting to the left of the kill switch as viewed from the operators position, protruding straight up. There should be a small length of vent line fitted to it, (about 2 inches or so). Inside this vent line should be 2 little threaded inserts. The threaded inserts allow just enough air to pass to allow the fuel tank to vent, but not open enough to allow fuel to seep or splash out during use. The 038 Super I worked on, this vent line disintegrated when I touched it to check it.

This saw does not use an external pulse line. There is a pulse port in the carb boot that mates with the pulse port on the engine side of the carb face.

As with the fuel line and tank vent line, the rubber intake boot may very well be badly rotted too. Check it carefully for cracks, dry-rot, or other damage that could cause an air leak. If questionable at all, I would replace it. This can/will cost you a top end if neglected when it requires replacement.

So I picked up a new fuel line, filter, and tank vent with both inserts from my local dealer for about $15 US total. The saw I worked on did not need the intake. But I suspect that it won't be too costly either.

And of course if you haven't already, it would be a good idea to disassemble that carb for a good cleaning/inspection/rebuild as needed.

If the situation is not remedied after servicing the fuel system, and being that you say the top end is still in god shape, I would then check for a sheared flywheel key. Also, make sure and clean the coil armature and verify proper coil/flywheel gap which is usually about .010-.015".
Swedish, you know, like the chef.

joe_indi

Sudden stop with smoke from the exhaust is a very bad sign. Usually the sign of con rod big end failure.
In such cases the spark plug would be dry and black. Fuel poured through the carb into the crankcase would be blackish when it flows out with the saw is inverted and the engine is turned over.
Try this and then you could confirm by lifting the cylinder.
Joe

HolmenTree

Before you do all that check the choke shutter in the air filter.
These 038's were notorious for faulty chokes. The spring in the air filter that tensions the shutter may have popped loose or weakened to allow it close the choke stopping the saw with smoke and all.
I have cleaned these air filters by taken them apart as their designed to be split in half. Sometimes if you're not careful you can stretch the spring or dislodging it for proper operation.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Ejdb

OK, thank you all....I've got something to work on now.

The fuel doesn't come out black as Joe_Indi mentioned.....so ive got my hopes on a bad fuel supply


Tried it again today.....nothing, the plug is still dry....colour is whiteish...not black.

Just to be sure i'll get myself a new plug....

and other then that I ordered a new Fuel line, Fuel tank vent, Fuel fliter, Rubber intake boot and a rebuild set for my carb.

I wil go from there and if nogo i'll remove the top end to check that too.....need to get myself some long torx tools first.

My hopes are still up as it does tend to start when i pour fuel in directly.

Thanks for now and i'll post an update when done.


Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

HolmenTree

Quote from: Ejdb on February 11, 2016, 08:57:40 AM

My hopes are still up as it does tend to start when i pour fuel in directly.

Like I said earlier check the choke shutter in the air filter .
It may be not functioning properly. Not closing fully when the master control switch is on the choke position. ...causing it not to draw fuel and start.
And also at high rpm the choke shutter is closing due to a weak or damaged tension spring......causing the saw to smoke and stop.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Ejdb

@Holmentree: i checked the choke shutter and that seems to work fine.

The fuelline and filter and tank vent seem to be fine to. I still have to check the intake for damage.

I removed the carburator and its a Tillotson HK42Awhich seems to be quite rare as i can hardly find any inof on that carb.  I did look for a replacement but the only ones that come close have an extra intake connection on the bottom of the carb which the Original doesnt have.

So thats why i will first go for a replacement of gaskets and membranes.

Wen i took the carb out i noticed that the gasket between the airfiler and carb was sort of damaged on the outside.

The carb itself: the gaskets and membranes stille seemto be in pretty good shape. The onl thing i found was some dirt in one part of the carb. that was collected in one seperate section of a gasket.

so i gave it a good clean and will now wait to receive my ordered parts somewhere this week. I hate waiting for these things :)  i want it fixed!  haha

anyway ill keep you posted on the progress. i will post some pics of the carb. maybe you see something i didn't.

The thing that worried me a bit is the last picture where you can see the throttle doesnt completely close......



 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


  


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

Another question: I keep on reading that i could use this carb to replace my Original one.





 


However this has an extra connection that my Original doesnt have. I gues that is for a so called pulse line?

Can someone tell me if i could indeed use this one to replce my Original and what should i connect to tha pulse connector?

Thanks!
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

joe_indi

Quote from: Ejdb on February 15, 2016, 02:17:54 AM
Another question: I keep on reading that i could use this carb to replace my Original one.





 


However this has an extra connection that my Original doesnt have. I gues that is for a so called pulse line?

Can someone tell me if i could indeed use this one to replce my Original and what should i connect to tha pulse connector?

Thanks!
Yes you can use this carb. That is not a pulse line. It is only an air compensator line which comes on the MS381. If you need to use that air compensator, you will have to replace the air filter and carb  grommet also.
Simpler would be to get hold of a suitable 4 screw cover of the earlier version and replace the compensator cover.

Logger RK

I have a question on a Sthil 044. I had carb problems on & off for about a year. I put a carb  kit /impulse hose & gas line & checked vent when it first started acting like it was starving for gas. Ran good for probly 5 hours? Brought it to a repair shop. Ran good for about another 5. Mechanic told me if it started running bad again he would have to change the carb. So I did put a new carb on & it's been about a year & still runs great. Guess my question is. What wears out on a carb? Been logging for 35 years & haven't had a carb wear out before.

joe_indi

Quote from: logger RK on February 15, 2016, 06:37:13 AM
...........What wears out on a carb?......

The metering needle for one. Wear out will cause flooding
Low and high speed check valve diaphragms. Wear out would cause leak in of air into the metering chamber, which results in leaning out of fuel supply.
Wear out of throttle shaft would cause lean fuel:air mixture.
Pump diaphragm wear out too will cause leaning out of fuel.
Most are curable except the low speed check valve (to my knowledge)
Joe

Ejdb

i did the carb rebuild and that looks good now. unfortunately the repair set i ordered has a wrong size gasket in it that needs to go between the airfilter and carb. the diameter of the large hole in that gasket is too small.....so i am searching for one with a bigger diameter or i need to alter the gasket i have myself with a shapr knife....

well other then that ....i started to further take apart the saw and when i wanted to remove the handlebar/tank i had to take the screws out of the rubber anti vibration pads....when i did that i noticed they were soaked in oil....thats probably not 'a good sign' >:( >:(

i suspect/hope it just the oilpump oil line....or could it be a seal or something?

ill continue my search by opening up the clutch side of the saw this afternoon and see what i find there...

I have figured out a lot myself by reading the forum and the entire internet ;) but i was wondering if anyone could help me getting a copy of the workshop manual for my 038AV saw? I have the 038 av super but i expect it to be the same as the magnum and/or the ms380 saws.

Hope someone can help me out
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

Doesn't look to good does it?  whats the first thing to check for?



 
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

joe_indi

Quote from: Ejdb on February 20, 2016, 09:31:24 AM
..... but i was wondering if anyone could help me getting a copy of the workshop manual for my 038AV saw? I have the 038 av super but i expect it to be the same as the magnum and/or the ms380 saws..
If I am not mistaken the manual you have should be fine for you needs because main difference isonly piston and cylinder dimensions .
The worm gear of that oil pump needs to be replaced.
Either you have loose screws on the oil pump or a worn out pump body.
Joe

Al_Smith

Just get some solvent, kerosine or diesel fuel perhaps and clean the thing up .Make certain the oil pump screws are tight and run it .Most oil pumps no matter who made them leak at least a little bit given an amount of usage .

Ejdb

OK, i removed the oilpump, gave it a good clean and that seems to be fine. Have to order a new gasket to reinstall it again.

But in my quest i discovered something else.....i removed the clutch and i was not really happy with what i saw there....a big thick sticky oily mess.....all the holes are clogged up by old oil and even more troublesome i saw a piece of broken plastic out there.........



 



 

What would this be? the remainders of the oilseal?? And more important...what would it mean for my next steps...
The cranckshaft still moves smoothly when i turn the flywheel. I dont feel any clearance there.

Would this be a matter of cleaning out all the old oil and place a new oilseal, or would this mean i have to open up the cranckhouse completely? I mean can i expect the same oily mess inside the cranckhouse?

I am learning a lot and i dont think there was a whole lot wrong with my carb(where i started this story) but i could really use some expert advice here....... Thanks!!



Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

joe_indi

It is called a sealing washer and is from the brake.
See the diagram

Correction
:-[ My mistake, that looks like a portion of the oil seal.
Joe

Ejdb

That's what I figured. ...the break break seal is still there.

But my big question here is: should I open it up completely  (housing) or just clean thoroughly and fit a new oilseal?

Not that I would be happy to open it up but I don't want to put it all together and find out that it still won't run because of glogged up oil inside....

Or are those holes underneath the clutch just airgaps or something?
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

limbwood

I would just clean it and put new seal in, would do the other side to. Those hole are for the screws to hold case together.

Ejdb

Thanks but these holes can't hold screws....they are rectangular and too big for screws.

The seal on the other side is still fine.....I'm just not sure if I should worry about the inside of the engine
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

limbwood

the inside is always clean, fuel mix is going through all the time keeping it clean, make sure you clean out bearing and lube before putting in new seal.

smmyb123

I think that you have discovered most of the problems with your saw by removing the clutch and cleaning in there. I suspect that the oil debris around there is from you flooding the crankcase while trying to start it and that fuel was passed out of the failed main seal (which blew out during use, causing a lean running condition which explains the white ash on your S/P). While you have the saw apart this far, it would be a good idea to replace those (the saw will not run with a massive air leak in the crankcase). Make sure you check the crankshaft end play before going any farther with this repair. If you can wiggle the end of the crank shaft up/ down, left/right you may want to replace the bearings as this will effect your new seals (ruin them). Also, check the hoses/ grommet that attach to the oil pump just to be sure those arent leaking.

smmyb123

Also, unless you suspect crankshaft bearing issues, dont crack open the crankcase.

Al_Smith

Another common problem nobody mentioned .For some reason these models or rather the models of the 038 have a tendency to tear the rubber loose off the left hand upper shock mount allowing some extra movement which often goes over looked .This in turn will lead to tearing the intake boot on the lower portion where it's nearly impossible to locate unless you remove the boot .I've replaced at least 3 boots with this problem.

Under normal conditions the tear might not even open up enough to cause problem but in a hard leaned on up or down cut it will open up and suck air .

Ejdb

Thank you guys for this helpful info.

There is no play on the crankshaft so I will not open up the crankcase.

One other thing....you advice to clean and lube the bearing.....would that be the crank bearing? As I don't see how to clean an lube that without openIng the case? Or do you mean the clutch needle bearing?

Furthermore I could not discover any hose connected to the oil pump?

The intakeboot I replaced although the original was still in one piece.

Ordered some parts which I hope come in this WE so I have something to play on.

Will let you know if my progress!
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

limbwood

with the seal blown apart like that I would spray some cleaner into side of bearing after you remove the rest of the seal, and then blow it out with compessed air, then dump a little mix oil on it and spin a few times to get it coated good.

Ejdb

And she is getting cleaner and cleaner.......



 



  



 



 



 


Took me quite a while to get al the dried oil off......but im getting there.... ;D

you can see that the blown seal did some damage in the clutch area but the clutch seat is still in good shape so i take it that'll still be fine....

A friend borrowed me an endoscope camera that i used to check the inside of the engine and that still looks perfect!!!

Unfortunately the dealer told me today im not getting my parts until Tuesday........aaaarghhh.....what should i do now this weekend????

He also told me the oilpump-gasket is not available at all anymore.....that surprised me as i thought i had seen it somewhere on the web.....so im gonna check for that one.

One more question before i call it a day (01:20 overhere) : the oilpump itself....does it have any seals/o-rings that can/should be replaced?


Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

ok, back to business after having to first spend time on my car that let me down......

anyway...ready to put the old 038 back together.

i had put in an new oilseal already so now wanted to put back the clutch....thats where i ran into an issue:

When i look at the ipl i see a washer between the oilseal and the clutch. I cant recall this washer was installed when i took it apart. (#1 in pic)



 



 



 



 

After i lock the threestar nut i can push down the clutch parts. Could this be because of worn springs? should the clutch be really snugfit on that locknut or is this normal and will they stay in place because of the centrifugal force?

To better illustrate what i mean i have uploaded a short video on YouTube here:

https://youtu.be/WY6JkWDJU0U

doesn't look good to me...but maybe i am just missing something

advice wanted please....



Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Al_Smith

It's probably normal, I wouldn't be too concerned about it .

I think that washer thing  is to stop chips. dirt etc from destroying  the oil seal .Stihl part number 1119-162-8915.Somebody probably had the clutch off at one time and forgot to put it back on .Should be available through a dealer I would think .

HolmenTree

You need the washer installed between the clutch and crankshaft seal. The washer not only protects the seal but helps keep the clutch shoes in place too. That's why you're able to push the clutch shoes inward like that.
Get the washer.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

joe_indi

You rally need that washer for the reasons Willard gave, plus, I think you really need to change that clutch or at least the clutch carrier. When you can slip the shoes onto the carrier that easily, it needs replacing.
Joe

Ejdb

OK thank you guys. ..I will get myself a washer and a new clutch before I go any further.
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

HolmenTree

Check the fit of the shoes on the hub if it's sloppy. I think all you need is new springs which are cheap to buy.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Ejdb

That's what I thought too.....ordered a washer and new springs. ....should arrive tomorrow
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

It took me a while but i finally got it all back together. Put in oil and gas and gave a couple of pulls.......nothing.......

when i took the cover off i noticed the airfilter had become wet.....i guess that gas.....

Does anyone have a suggestion of what might be wrong here?

Ill continue my quest tomorrow as it is 2 am out here......

Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

Hmm this morning I went to check the saw and is noticed there was gas that had leaked out of it......a small puddle of gas of approx 20x20cm.....mainly laying on the right side (clutch side) of the saw.

What would.be the most obvious reason for this gas leaking??

Can t check now as I have to get my son's to Soccer.

Will continue this afternoon
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

BTW. ....before I took this saw apart it didn't leak any gas......
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

OK. ...the majority of the gas leak was caused by a worn out rubbet sealing on the tank cap.

But still I can't get it.to.run....the screen of the aitfilter gets wet when trying to start. I hear a hissing sound coming from the carb area when I slowly pull the rope.....so I'll start searching for airless there...

I did check the plug and it has a nice powerful spark. So electronically it should be fine....

I more and more get the feeling someone messed up the maintenance on this saw earlier.....

Ill take.apart the carb again and double check that I put everything back in properly when I first started with the rebuild.

I am also thinking about buying another carb.....but the ones I can get for this saw all have this extra little pipe on the carb that my original.one doesn't have. Can I just replace it or do I need to take other things into consideration in that case as well?
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Hiway40frank

Having similar pronlems with my dolmar133 the only difference is i can get mine running on half throttle and half choke. It leaks gas where the fuel line meets the tank valve and i cant figure out the exact leak. Replaces lines and valve and still leaks. Wont idle or start unless on half throttle. At this point since you mentioned the smoke maybe you fried the magnito or coil? Just because you see spark does not mean you are getting the right timing or proper current. Do you have a plug tester? The next thing i would do is make sure your not flodding it.

Al_Smith

That little"pipe" thing is the diaphragm chamber cover for an "intellicarb" used on more modern saws .It just an atmospheric vent that  the more modern assembly uses and limits the amount of fuel the engine gets if the air filter becomes plugged .It will run with that thing but it might fill full of tiny bits of sawdust given an amount of time .It most likely could be replaced with a standard cover .

Having said that ,it's probably something simple.Although nearly impossible to trouble shoot over the internet it could be several things .One if the carb has not been rebuilt,do so.Trying to get a saw to run with old stiff carb innards is like trying  to walk on water .

That done it could be assembled out of order, did  that myself .It could have the fuel lever shut off set too high,did that too ,more than once I might add .

Ejdb

OK, ik will take my carb apart again and check to see if i did put in the membranes properly.

Can you explain what the "fuel lever shut off" is exactly? Is that inside the carb? (probably a real NOOB question...)

What i suspect now is actually the fuel line connection on the carb. When i put the carb back and tried to connect te fuel line i had to put in into an impossible bend to hook it up to the connector. So i took a number 8 key and tried to see if i could move it into another position. I managed to do that but now i wonder if i now accidentally created a leak in that carb. Ill try to shoot some pictures tonight to better explain what i mean
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Al_Smith


Can you explain what the "fuel lever shut off" is exactly?------Your post ,Feb 14 second picture from the bottom of the post .The little metal thing in the middle  of the piece.

Best I can explain it .I would have moved the pic here but I'm somewhat of a computer idiot .

At any rate if that thing is adjusted too low it won't allow the fuel in ,if it's too high it will flood the engine .

Ejdb

OK,  I get it.....but now the million $  question is:  How can I check/adjust if it too high/too low?
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Al_Smith

As a rule you set the lever to be level with the floor of the base .Some times it might need to be slightly below ,not much.The little metal  protrussion of the diaphragm is what operates the valve via the lever .

At any rate the needle valve has to be fully closed when the diaphragm is in a relaxed condition or else it will flood .

If you want you can u-tube how to set up that carb ,they say a picture is worth a thousand words.

joe_indi

If you plan doing this often, invest in a purger (aka fuel primer) of the kind that comes on brushcutters and some chainsaws. Connect the outlet of the purger to your carb (with the metering diaphragm removed). Fit the fuel hose of your saw to the inlet of the purger. Depress the metering lever of the carb and pump the purger till fuel spurts out at the carb. Release the metering lever, wipe off the fuel and press the purger bulb. If the metering lever is holding no fuel will be visible. Now close down the carb. Pump the purger. If there is any fuel coming through the carb the lever is too high.
Simple.
Joe

HolmenTree

Check the tip of the metering needle, if it's rubber look to see if there is a groove worn around its surface. If there is then replace it with a new needle.

On the metering needle lever it takes a little more then looking at it to see if the lever is level with the floor of the carb.
Hold the needle down in its seat with one finger, with a finger on your other hand gently push down on the end of the lever being careful not to distort it. If it's above the floor push down to bend it until it is level.
If it's below the floor then bend it up with your finger nail until level.
Remember the whole time keep the metering needle seated in its seat with your other hand.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Ejdb

 

 

So just to be sure I took the carb apart again....everything was installed in the right order.  The only thing I noticed is that the metal ring on the membrane that I got in my rebuild set is a bit smaller than on the original membrane.....is that a problem that might cause trouble? You can see both in the picture
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

Eureka!!! It runs!!!! One pull!!

I put the carb back with the new membrane and the only thing I changed was the elbow to which the fuelline is connected. That had come loose a bit. So i tried if I could pull it out....I could. ...and put it back in firmly. Probably there was a major airleak there.

Anyway I switched it off after 5 secs as it is 01.30 am and I wanna stay friends with my neighbour's haha...

So tomorrow at break of dawn I will give it a proper testrun and see how it'll hold.......

For now....I'm a happy camper!!
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Ejdb

It runs instantly.....now just have to figure out how to tune the carb. When idle it runs a bit rough.

Also it looks like the oil pump is giving away quite a lot of oil. ....can you adjust that with the screw on the bottom.....clockwise=less?? Haven't tried it yet
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Al_Smith

Start with about a turn and a half out on both .The idle or low speed set out enough to run plus provide a snappy response when going from idle to full throttle .If it falters it probably needs to be richened up a little .

High speed should be kind of stuttering at full throttle ,commonly called "4 stroking" .Once it hits the wood and is under load it should clear up .Too lean it will start to drop RPMS fast .Always err on the side of being a tad rich rather than lean .Run a half a tank through it under load then "read " the spark plug .It should be a brownish color .To rich it will be black too lean it will be whitish .

Ejdb

played around with the saw a bit further today. It starts fine...still need to adjust the carb.

But im looking at the amount of oil that being released. it look to me its way to much but maybe im wrong.

i made 2 videos. one with the oilpump adjustment screw fully open and one fully closed. even fully closed it seems to give a lot of oil.

Id like to know what you guys think about this.




Oilpump fully open:
https://youtu.be/yXROHf0ui2g



oilpump fully closed:
https://youtu.be/W2CNTxUdAGs


defective oilpump? something else? normal?

Thanks for your advice!
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

joe_indi

How much oil is there in the tank when you stop for refuelling? Or, does the oil tank go dry before you run out of fuel?

Ejdb

Ow I haven't even tried that.  Was afraid this was way too much oil so I didn't really use it yet
Ill try to fix antything myself first......why? cuz i keep on learning by making foolish mistakes

Thank You Sponsors!